SHOP PRACTICE 

FOR 
HOME MECHANICS 



YATES 




Class _irXlL£4^ 

Book ^ 

CoppgMlN? 



0OESRIGHT DEPOSm 



SHOP PRACTICE 

FOR HOME MECHANICS 

Use of Tools Shop Processes 

Construction of Small Machines 



AN INDISPENSABLE BOOK FOR ALL INTERESTED IN MECHANICAL 
WORK. GIVING PRACTICAL AND USEFUL INFORMATION CON- 
CERNING THE VARIOUS PHASES OF WORK THAT ARE 
INCLUDED IN AMATEUR MECHANICS, SUCH AS THE 
USE OF MISCELLANEOUS TOOLS, DRILLING AND 
REAMING, LATHE WORK, PATTERN MAKING, 
HARDENING AND TEMPERING OF STEEL, 
SOLDERING AND BRAZING AND 
MACHINE CONSTRUCTION 

CONTAINS A CHAPTER ALSO ON 
THEORETICAL MECHANICS AND ON MISCELLANEOUS INFOR- 
MATION RELATIVE TO SHOP WORK 

By RAYMOND FRANCIS YATES 

AUTHOR OF "model MAKING," "HOW TO MAKE AND USE A SMALL 
CHEMICAL LABORATORY," "lATHE WORK FOR BEGIN- 
NERS," "SOLDERING AND BRAZING," ETC. 




FULLY ILLUSTRATED WITH 309 ENGRAVINGS 



NEW YORK 

THE NORMAN \Y. HENLEY PUBLISHING COMPANY 

2 WEST 45th STREET 

1920 



<< 



\ 



^^ 





Co 


PYRIOHT 


1920, BY 




The 


Norman W. 


Henley Publishing 


Company 




All 


Rights 


Reserved 





Printed in U. S. A. 



>CU 5 71 988 






PREFACE 

Long before the author was asked to prepare this 
vohime on shop practice for home mechanics, he had a 
well-formed conception of just Avhat such a book ought 
to cover and how the subject-matter ought to be pre- 
sented. Having started to dabble in amateur mechanics 
at the tender age of fourteen, he often found himself in 
dire need of some handy reference on shop processes — 
processes that could be employed about the small shop 
without elaborate equipment and great expense. Peculiar 
enough there has been no book, to the writer's knowl- 
edge, that covers this field. It was this fact that caused 
him to think so much about the preparations of such a 
book before the opportunity to Avrite it actually pre- 
sented itself. 

An examination of the current volumes concerning 
shop practice reveals nothing of real Avorth to the ama- 
teur; they ignore his little problems and trials that he 
meets in the routine of his small shop. The information 
relates to large, costly machines and appliances. The 
real amateur has little use for data concerning turret 
lathes, cylindrical grinders and broaching machines. He 
is, however, generally hungry for information that ^vl\\ 
help him to do better Avork in the easiest and best way. 

A word about the subject-matter. It has been arranged 
progressively so that the beginner can study the book 
just as he Avould study a book on elementary chemistry. 
The first chapter, although theoretical in its aspect, has 
a distinct relationship to elementary mechanics, and the 

5 



6 Preface 

reader is advised to give it careful attention. It deals 
with those great fundamentals upon which the Avhole 
science of mechanics rests. The following chapters 
treat simple shop operations and the use of small tools. 
The lathe is covered in detail as this is the most im- 
portant tool in the shop, without which little can be done 
in the way of serious work. Such operations as grind- 
ing, hardening and tempering steel, pattern making, 
soldering, etc., are included, as the amateur must be 
proficient in all of these branches of his work. The 
last chapter contains such information and data as the 
author felt could be used advantageously in general shop 
routine. Some of the matter contained in this chapter 
was suggested by questions asked by the readers of 
Everyday Engineering Magazine, which the author, as 
editor of this journal, was called upon to answer. 

The author Avishes to have the readers know that he 
is indebted to Mr. R. H. Wagner for the splendid design 
of the small brass smelting furnace described in Chapter 
IX; also to Mr. Homer Trecartin for reliable data on 
gears, and to his friend and counsellor, Mr. Dmght S. 
Simpson, for the useful table on A. S. M. E. thread stand- 
ards. 

It is hoped that this work will merit the approval of 
that multitude of amateur mechanics in America who 
work diligently in their little shops for no other reason 
than an unquenchable desire to ''make things." 

Raymond Francis Yates. 
June, 1920 



CONTENTS 



CHAPTER I 

INTRODUCTION TO THE STUDY OF ELEMENTARY 
MECHANICS 

The three states of matter — Energy — Power — Work — Force — Appli- 
cation of force to matter — The lever — Pulleys — Inclined plane — 
The wedge — The screw — Friction — Lubrication — Gravity — Mo- 
mentum — Mass — Velocity — Gears — Gear problems — How to fig- 
ure for gear strength — Calculation of power — Strength of gears — 
Gear tables — Gear speeds — Coefficient of cubical expansion — 
Coefficient of linear expansion — Apparatus to indicate linear ex- 
pansion — Apparatus to indicate cubical expansion — How to figure 
linear expansion Pages 15-47 

CHAPTER II 

THE USE OF MISCELLANEOUS TOOLS 

Different kinds of hammers — Choice of hammers — Files — Choice of 
files — Classification of files — Use of files — Flat filing — Draw filing 
— Round filing — Scrapers — How to make scrapers — Proper use of 
scrapers — Vises — The vise used as a press — Vise jaws — Making 
soft jaws — Screw drivers — Choice of screw drivers — Hack saws — 
How to use hack saws — Center punches — Making center punches 
— Driving punches — Riveting punches — Chisels — Classification of 
chisels — Use of chisels — Taps — Dies — Use of taps — Use of dies — 
Pliers — Parallel jaw pliers — Use of pliers — Wrench — Different 
kinds of wrenches — Anvils — Use of anvil — Clamps — Types of 
clamps — Use of clamps in different work — Manipulations of mis- 
cellaneous tools Pages 48-84 

CHAPTER III 

MEASURING INSTRUMENTS AND THEIR USE 

The standards of measurement — American standards — The scale — 
The square — Use of the square — Adjustable squares — Calipers— 

7 



8 Contents 

Inside calipers — Outside calipers^Shoulder calipers — Use of dif- 
ferent types of calipers — Odd measurements made with calipers — 
Dividers — Use of dividers — Marking out with dividers — The 
micrometer^Construction of micrometer — How to read a mi- 
crometer — How to take care of a micrometer — Micrometer ver- 
nier — Micrometer vernier and how to read it — Vernier calipers — - 
How to read vernier calipers — Use of vernier calipers as height 
gauge — Surface gauges — Use of surface gauges — Surface plates — 
Marking out with surface plates — Protractors — Use of protractors 
in marking out — Use of miscellaneous measuring tools. 

Pages 85-104 

CHAPTER IV 

DRILLING AND REAMING 

Laying out and marking work — Twist drills — Operation of twist drills 
— How to properly sharpen twist drills — Twist drill sizes — How 
to sharpen very small twist drills — Drill presses for the small 
home shop — Operation of drill presses — Different types of drill 
presses — Power drill presses — Hand drill presses — The process 
of drilling — Finding the center for a large drill — Drilling different 
metals — How to sharpen the drill for brass — How to sharpen 
drill for iron and steel — Speed of twist drill for the different 
metals and different sized drills — Vee blocks — Use of Vee blocks 
in drilling holes in circular pieces — Fly cutter — Use of fly cutter 
— How to make a fly cutter — Bottoming drill — Use of bottoming 
drill — Countersink — Producing square holes — Use of drift — Con- 
struction of drift — Reamers — Use of reamers — Sharpening ream- 
ers — Burring reamers Pages 105-126 

CHAPTER V 
INTRODUCTION TO LATHE WORK 

Operation of the lathe — Simple lathes — Names of lathe parts for 
simple lathe — Lathe speed — Lathe tools — How to use lathe tools 
— How to sharpen lathe tools — Lathe dog — Turning simple work 
— Mounting work in lathe — Using simple lathe attachments — Use 
of face plate — Mounting work on face plate — Turning brass — 
How to sharpen tool for brass — Turning steel— Lathe chucks — 
Drilling on lathe — Slide rest and its use in turning — How to 
sharpen the various lathe tools — Lathe hand tools — Lathe power 
tools — General information on the operation, construction .and 
use of simple lathes Pages 127-140 



Contents 9 

CHAPTER YI 
ADVANCED LATHE WORK 

Larger lathes — Description of lathe parts — Lathe saddle — Tailstock 
— Use of tailstock — Headstock — Slide rest — Use of slide rest — 
Cross slide — Center rest — Use of center rest — Live center — Dead 
center — How to take care of centers — Pulleys — Lathe speed — 
Back gears — Use of back gears for various speeds — Live center — 
Dead center — Grinding centers — Mounting w^ork between cen- 
ters — Lathe chuck — Lubrication and care of lathe — Setting up 
and driving the lathe — Power required — Setting up line shaft 
and countershaft — Lathe swing — Shaft hangers — Speed of line 
shaft — Mounting of power motor — Bench lathes — Simple turning 
— Boring cylinders — Machining crankcase — Making bearings — 
Machining odd shaped pieces of work — Use of face plate — Use of 
blocks and clamping bolts — Use of angle plate — Mounting casting 
of angle plate for machining — Turning sheet metal — Turning ec- 
centrics — Use of mandrels — Eccentric mandrels — Turning fly- 
wheels — Boring bars — Boring tools — Use of boring bars — Turn- 
ing crankshafts — Turning four-throw crankshaft — Making built- 
up crankshaft — Thrust bolts — Screw cutting — Placing gears for 
screw cutting — Grinding and mounting tools for screw cutting 
— Thread gauges Pages 141-195 

CHAPTER VII 

SPECIAL LATHE WORK 

Boring long holes — Use of D-bits — Construction of D-bits — Mounting 
gun barrel for drilling — Use of D-bit in drilling gun barrel — 
Reamer to follow D-bit — Cutting key-way on the lathe without 
milling attachment — Construction of special drilling attachment 
for use on small lathe — Construction and use of overhead drive 
for small lathe — Construction of small milling attachment for use 
on home shop lathe — Milling without milling attachment — Use of 
various milling devices — Use of special reamers — Home-made 
lathe tools for special purposes Pages 196-213 

CHAPTER YIII 

GRINDING OPERATIONS 

Grinding and polishing head — Choosing small grinder for shop use — 
Speed for grinding work — Proper speed for polishing M^ork — 



10 Contents 

Driving the grinding head — Abrasive wheels — Physical charac- 
teristics of abrasive wheels and abrasives — Explanation of grit 
— Grade — Bond — Special grades — Choosing wheels for different 
work — Wheel faces — Precautions in mounting wheels — Testing 
wheels before mounting — Maintaining wheel faces — Restoring 
wheel faces — Dressing wheels — Simple wheel dresser — Grinding 
— Lapp grinding — Use of the lathe as a lapp grinder — Abrasive 
paper — Abrasive cloth — Lapp board — Simple grinding appliances 
— Abrasive powders — Abrasive grains — Use of powders and grains 
— Bufifing — Buffing materials Pages 214-228 

CHAPTER IX 
PATTERN MAKING 

How patterns are used — Making moulds — How casting is accom- 
plished by the use of patterns — Moulding board — Cope — Drag — ■ 
Use of cope — Use of drag — Procedure in making mould — Tools 
required in moulding — Tools required in pattern making — Making 
patterns — Simple patterns — Split patterns — Woods used in mak- 
ing patterns — Shrinkage of metals — Draught — Laminated patterns 
— Fillets — Method of making fillets — Cored patterns — Core boxes 
— Making core boxes— Furnace for melting brass and bronze in 
the home shop — Construction of furnace — Construction of burner 
— Gasolene tank — Use of furnace Pages 229-244 

CHAPTER X 

HARDENING AND TEMPERING STEEL 

How steel is hardened — Essential requirements for proper hardening 
— Tempering — Necessary temperature — Apparatus required — 
Decalescense point — Recalescense point — Tempering steel — Dif- 
ferent temperatures — Quenching — Quenching baths — Case hard- 
ening — Apparatus for case hardening — Temperature for case 
hardening — Materials required for case hardening — Home-made 
hardening furnace — Construction of home-made hardening fur- 
nace Pages 245-254 

CHAPTER XI 

SOLDERING AND BRAZING 

Theory of soldering — Preparation of surfaces before applj'ing solder 
■ — Fluxes — Fluxes for various metals — Making flux — Solders — 
Composition of solders — Solders with various melting points — 



Contents 11 

Soldering coppers — Heating soldering coppers — Blow torches — 
Operation of blow torches — Use of Bunsen burner in soldering 
— Silver soldering — Silver soldering fluxes — Silver soldering ap- 
paratus — Application of silver solder — Silver soldering various 
metals — Brazing — Brazing various metals Pages 255-266 

CHAPTER XII 

CONSTRUCTION OF SMALL POWER DRIVEN PRESS 

Design ^ of machine — Drawings — Making the necessary patterns — 
Boring the spindle arm — Boring out table — Method of holding 
castings to lathe for boring — Use of special boring tool — Drilling 
— Boring bench clamp — Drilling spindle bearing — Reaming out 
spindle bearing — Machining pulleys on mandrel — Tapering pul- 
leys — Cutting keyway in spindle — ^Tapping — Polishing — Scraping 
— Finishing parts — Assembling Pages 267-293 

CHAPTER XIII 

CONSTRUCTION OF A SMALL GRINDING HEAD 

Patterns — Design — Castings — Preparation of castings for machining 
— Drilling the main casting — Machining pulley — Turning bearing 
— Making shaft — Machining flange — Finishing — Assembly. 

Pages 294-300 

CHAPTER XIV 

GENERAL INFORMATION 

How to read mechanical drawings — General or assembly drawings — • 
Detail drawings — Sectional drawings — Lines and what they mean 
— Abbreviations — A. S. M. E. screw standards — Drills to use for 
taps — S. A. E. standards — Grinding wheel grades — Table of allow- 
ances for driving, running forced and pushed fits — Miscellaneous 
mathematical information Pages 301-314 



Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 



CHAPTER I 

Introduction to the Study of Elementary Mechanics 

The three states of matter — Energy — Power — Work — Force — Appli- 
cation of force to matter — The lever — Pulleys — Inclined plane — 
The wedge — The screw — Friction — Lubrication — Gravity — Mo- 
mentum — Mass — Velocity — Gears — Gear problems — How to fig- 
ure for gear strength — Calculation of power — Strength of gears — 
Gear tables — Gear speeds — Coefficient of cubical expansion — 
Coefficient of linear expansion — Apparatus to indicate linear ex- 
pansion — Apparatus to indicate cubical expansion — How to figure 
linear expansion. 

A STUDY of the fundamentals of theoretical mechanics 
serves as a helpful introduction to the study of shop 
practice and processes. The great science of mechanics 
is based upon a few simple principles that are involved 
in every process or operation carried on in the shop. 
An understanding of these cardinal principles, even 
though it is an elementary one, will broaden the vision of 
the reader in mechanical matters and prepare him to 
carry on the study of shop practice more intelligently. 

Matter is defined as that which occupies space. Mat- 
ter exists in three states; solid, liquid and gaseous. 
Therefore, the science of mechanics is divided into the 
mechanics of solids, liquids and gases. Owing to the 
fact that the mechanics of liquids and gases are more or 
less remote from the realm of practical mechanics, the 

13 



14 Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 

discussion of these particular phases will end here. The 
mechanics of solids will constitute the subject-matter of 
the ensuing paragraphs. 

The terms energy, power, force and work are inti- 
mately connected with the science of mechanics. The 
reader is cautioned not to he too presumptuous in decid- 
ing the real meaning of these terms. It is a common, but 
none the less serious, error to assume that these terms 
are analogous. In everyday terminology they are, but 
in scientific parlance they take on a very special and 
specific meaning. 

Energy is present in six different forms; kinetic, po- 
tential, electric, chemical, 'heat, and magnetic. Energy 
can be readily transformed from one form into another. • 
Through the agency of the electric battery, chemical 
energy is transformed into electric energy, and the po- 
tential energy in a coiled spring is changed to kinetic 
energy when the spring is released. Energy is never 
transformed from one form to another without a serious 
loss. In the steam-electric power plant, for instance, the 
loss of energy through transformation is enormous. The 
chemical energy released by the combustion of the coal 
under a boiler is converted into kinetic energy through 
the medium of steam and the steam engine or turbine. 
This kinetic energy again suffers a transformation into 
electrical energy through the medium of the generator. 
By this series of transformations, but a comparatively 
small percentage of the original chemical energy released 
by the burning coal is available in the form of useful 
electrical energy at the terminals of the generator. 

The energy that is lost in transformation is only lost 
insofar as man is unable to recover it. Energy, like mat- 
ter, is absolutely indestructible. It cannot be destroyed 



Introduction to Study of Elementary Meclianics 15 

in any known manner. The laws concerning tnis phase 
of science are called the laws of the conservation of en- 
ergy. AVhen one ball strikes another on the billiard table, 
most of the kinetic energy possessed by the first l)all is 
imparted to the second one. The sudden impact causes 
a certain amount of the original energy to be transformed 
into heat. A part is also lost in the production of sound 
waves. 

In the study of theoretical mechanics, force is recog- 
nized as that which tends to produce or modify motion. 
Force is usually measured in pounds. A force always 
has a certain direction, point of application and mag- 
nitude. 

Work, although closely allied to force, has a different 
meaning. Work is performed when a force produces 
motion in overcoming resistance. Work really consists 
of two elements, force and motion. Force may be ap- 
plied, but, unless motion is produced, no icorh results. 
In calculating work done, the magnitude of the force 
applied is measured in pounds and the distance moved 
in feet. This method of calculation has brought forth 
the term foot-pound which is the product of force (in 
pounds) and distance (in feet). Work = force x dis- 
tance. 

Power is the amount of work done in a given time. It 
is generally expressed in foot-pounds per minute or 
second. Power can be defined as the product of force 
and distance divided b}^ time. If 33,000 pounds are 
raised one foot in one minute, one horsepower is ex- 
pended. To calculate power, it is necessary to divide 
the number of foot-pounds of work done in one minute 
by 33,000. Thus, if 66,000 pounds are raised one foot in 
one minute, 66,000 -^ 33,000 = 2 horsepower. 



16 



Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 



Velocity is the rate of motion — the distance covered 
divided by time. It is generally expressed in feet per 
minute or second. The calculation of velocity does not 
include either force or weight. If a body moves 6,000 
feet in 6 minutes, its velocity will be 1,000 feet per 
minute. 




Fig. I — The representation of forces graphically 

The application of force to matter is one of the most 
important phases of theoretical mechanics. In Fig. 1, 
the body A has been moved from B to C in the direction 
of the arrow. The applied force is represented graphic- 
ally by the straight line. The arrow gives the direction, 
the length of the line represents the magnitude and the 
end of the line the point at which the force was applied. 
It will be seen that the longer the line is, the greater the 




Fig. 2 — Two equal forces acting in opposite directions will not 
produce motion 

magnitude or value of the applied force because it would 
require a greater force to move the body A one inch than 



Introduction to Study of Elementary Mechanics 17 

it would to move it a half inch. The graphical represen- 
tation of forces is a great aid to the study of applied 
forces. 

In Fig. 2, it will be noticed that two forces have been 
applied to the body A, each in an opposite direction. 
This is a case of opposed forces. If the forces B and C 





A 














rs 


















■ 


^H 


m 
m 


^B 


B 



Fig. 3 — The line D represents the resultant of the two forces B and C 

are equal, the body A will not move. However, if one 
force is greater than the other, the body will move a 
distance equivalent to the difference in the applied forces. 
This is in accordance with the laws of the conservation 
of energy. 




Fig. 4 — The graphic representation of the resultant force of two 
forces of unequal value acting in the same direction 

If two forces act in the same direction the value of the 
resultant force will be equal to their sum. This is dia- 
gramed in Fig. 3. The force B is greater than C, but it 
will be seen that both forces are applied in the same di- 



18 



Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 



reetion. Such forces are called parallel forces. The line 
D represents the resultant force, the sum of the forces 
B and C. If two forces act on a body in different direc- 
tions as shown in Fig. 4 the resultant force can be rep- 
resented by the line AB. 

The study of forces and their application is an im- 



Force 



Power Arm- 



Weight Arm--- 



Fulcrum 



Fig. 5 — A lever of the first class 



Weight 



portant one oAving to its relationship to mechanics. 
Every part of a machine moves as a result of applied 
force. Many important illustrations of applied force 
can be made bv the use of the lever. The lever is a solid 



Fores 



Wei(^hf 



Fig. 6— A lever of the second class 

rod mounted or resting upon a point called the fulcrum. 
The lever shown in Fig. 5 is called a lever of the first 
class. It is divided into three parts ; the fulcrum, already 



Introduction to Study of Elementary Mechanics 19 

mentioned, the weight arm and the power arm. It will 
be seen that the power arm is that portion to which the 
force is applied, while the weight arm is that part sup- 
porting the weight. The second-class lever has the 
weight between the fulcrum and the force as showni in 
Fig. 6. A lever of the third class has the force applied 
between the weight and the fulcrum, as shoMTi in Fig. 7. 
Tlie fundamental law of the lever is the same for all 
classes, first, second and third. 

To find the power of a lever of the first class (Fig. 5), 
the weight should be multiplied by its distance from the 
fulcrum and divided by the distance of the force or power 
from the fulcrum. The problem presented in Fig. 8 
would be solved as follows: 



x6 48 



12 



12 



= 4 lbs. 



From this example it will be seen that the greater the 
distance betAveen the fulcrum and the applied power and 
•the shorter the distance between the fulcrum and the 



A 



Force 



Weight 



Fig. 7 — A lever of the third class 

weight, the more powerful the lever will be. In fact, the 
power of the lever is practically infinite. Aristotle was 
one of the first early scientists to recognize the great 
power of the lever. 



20 



Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 



If it is desired to calculate the weight on a lever know- 
ing the distance it is located from the fulcrnm, the force 
applied and the distance of the force from the fulcrum, 
the following mathematical practice is emiiloyed. The 



-^i.'- 



-i- 



-/2"- 



6 Lbs. 



4 it's. 



Fig. 8 — A practical problem of the lever 

factors of the problem are presented in Fig. 9. Here it 
will be noticed that the weight is located 30 inches from 
the fulcrum, while the force of 50 pounds is applied 5 
inches from the fulcrum. The correct answer mil result 



n 



l\ 



«-5'^-->k- 30-- 



50 Lbs 



S'/iLbs. 



Fig. 9 — Another practical problem of the lever 



from the process of multiplying the power by its distance 
from the fulcrum and dividing by the distance of the 
weight from the fulcrum. 



30 



30 



50 X 5 250 



= 8 1-3 lbs. 



Introduction to Study of Elementary Mechanics 21 

Mathematical problems involving the lever could be ex- 
tended indefinitely but the author feels that the few 
problems given will suffice to give the reader a sound 
elementary understanding of this particular phase of the 
subject. 

A compound lever is sho^n in Fig. 10. This is a sys- 
tem of levers where the power arm of one rests on the 
weight arm of another. A very small force applied to 
the point A will support a comparatively large weight 
at B. To find the power exerted at A for the support of 
a specific weight at B, the weight is multiplied by the 
product of the short arms and divided by the product 
of the long arms. 

To carry the explanation of the lever further, reference 




Fig. lo — A compound lever 



is made to Fig. 11. A force acting upon a body tends to 
produce motion either in a straight or circular line. The 
first is called a motion of translation, the second, a mo- 
tion of rotation. The lever in Fig. 11 is pivoted at A 
and any force acting upon it (except one which would 
pass through the center of the pivot as indicated by the 
line B) would tend to produce a rotary motion. The 
tendency toward rotational movement will depend upon 
two factors, i.e., the magnitude of the force and its dis- 



22 



Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 



tance from the pivot when measured along a line that 
will be at exact right angles to the line of action of the 
force. It will be seen that a line measured at right angles 
to the force, in case of the force passing through the cen- 
ter of the pivot, Avould not involve the lever at all and 
therefore a rotan^ movement would not be produced. If 
a force of ten pounds is applied to the lever at F, its 
moment (moment in mechanics means the measure of the 
turning effect of a force which has a tendency to produce 
a rotary motion) ^^dll be greater than it would be if the 
force was applied at the point G. This is in accordance 
mth the law stating that the rotary motion or noment 




Force 8 



Fig. II — Analysis of the action of forces on a simple lever 

will depend upon (1) the magnitude of the force and (2) 
its distance from the pivot or center of motion. It will 
be noticed that the distance E is less than the distance C 
from the center of the lever, therefore the rotary effect 
of the force acting at point G A\dll be less than that acting 
at point F. If the lever is in the position indicated by 
the dotted lines and a force of 10 lbs. is acting upon it in 



Introduction to Study of Elementary Mechanics 23 

the direction K, it will be found that the effective distance 
D is much less than the distance C when the lever was in 
the other position. For this reason the force, although 
the same in both cases, will not be as effective. In each 
of the cases cited, it will be seen that the actual leverage 
is equal to the distance of the lines D, E and C. These 
lines are properly called the "lever arms of the mo- 
ment." The actual moment can be calculated by multi- 
plying the force by the perpendicular distance from the 
axis to the line representing the direction of the force. 
If the distance from F to the center of the axis or pivot 
A is 21/^ ft. and the force applied to the point F 10 lbs., 
the result in foot-pounds or the moment will be : 

2.5 X 10 = 25 foot-pounds. 

Mechanical movements are said to be positive or nega- 
tive, depending upon their direction. If the lever in Fig. 




Fig. 12 — The force A will produce motion of the wheel more readily 

than the force B 

11 is moving in the direction M, its rotation is said to 
be positive because it is moving clockwdse. A movement 
in the opposite direction is said to be negative or counter- 
clockwise. 

A wheel acts in much the same manner as a lever. Ref- 
erence is made to Fig. 12. If a force A acted upon the 



24 



Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 



wheel it would rotate and function in tlie manner of a 
continuous lever. It will be noticed that the tendency to 
rotate will be greater if the force is applied at the peri- 
phery. If a force B was applied, the tendency to rotate 
would be much less. In the case of the wheel shown in 
Fig. 13, no rotation or tendency toward rotation mil be 
noticed, owing to the fact that the whole system is in 
perfect equilibrium. It wdll also be seen that the wheel 
functions as a lever; the center acting as the fulcrum 
and the two sides as the weight and power arms. The 




Fig. 13 — Two equal forces or weights suspended as shown will not 

produce motion 

weight is equal to the power and therefore no motion is 
produced. 

A series of connected pulleys or v»'heels is called a 
train and the wheel which imparts the motion is called 
the driver. As a wheel functions as a continuous lever, a 
series or train of wheels will act as a system of compound 
levers. The lifting power of a series of pulleys is used 
to advantage many times. In Fig. 14, the rope A, and 
hence the force applied at the end, will move through 



Introduction to Study of Elementary Mechanics 25 

twice the distance traveled by tlie weight B. Therefore 
the weight can be equal to t^^ice the force applied at the 
end of the rope. If another pulley is added to the sys- 
tem, a weight three times greater than the applied force 
can be lifted, but the distance traveled by the weight will 
be one-third of that traveled by the force acting at the 
end of the rope. A¥ith a system of seven pulleys, a weight 
seven times greater than the applied force can be lifted 
theoretically if the frictional losses are not considered. 
In this case, the weight moves through a distance that is 
one-seventh of that traveled by the force. With a sy?- 




Fig. 14 — A simple system of two pulleys 

tern of pulleys one man can lift many times his o^\av 
Aveight. If a system of six pulleys is used and the force 
applied at the end of the rope is equivalent to 50 lbs., it 
mil be possible to lift 6 x 50 or 300 lbs. If the end of 
the rope or the force passes through 60 feet, the weight 
will be lifted 1/6 of 60 or 60 - 6 = 10 feet. 

The inclined plane takes an important part in the 
science of mechanics. The meaning of an inclined plane 
becomes apparent by referring to A, Fig. 15. A plane 
that is at an angle (except a right angle) with a hori- 



26 



Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 



zontal plane is called an inclined plane. It will be under- 
stood that a smaller force is reqnired to move a given 
weight up an inclined plane than to move it perpendicu- 
larly. The nearer the inclined plane approaches the per- 






A B C 

F*g« 15 — Three inclined planes of different angles 

pendieular, the greater the force necessary to move it 
must be. The weight on the inclined plane at B, Fig. 15, 
could be moved with a smaller force than would be neces- 
sary to move the same weight at C where the angle is 



Fig. 16. — Counter-balanced weights 



greater. It must also be understood that the same 
amount of power (not force) is required to move the 
weight in both instances, providing the perpendicular 
distances are the same. The force in moving the weight 
up angle B will act through a greater length of time but 



Introduction to Study of Elementary Mechanics 27 

the actual power (which is force x time) will be the same 
as that required to lift the weight on angle C. 

If a weight C, Fig. 16, was counter-balanced by a 




Fig. 17 — Moving a weight up an inclined plane 

weight D, the first weight could not be lifted until another 
small weight was added to D. In other words, the weight 
D would have to be greater than C to lift it. To prove 




Fig. 18 — Showing the use of the wedge 

the mechanical advantage of the inclined plane, refer- 
ence is made to Fig. 17. The weight E is able to lift the 
weight F up the inclined plane. The weight E is smaller 
than the weight being lifted, while in the case illustrated 
at Fig. 16 the weight D had to be greater than the weight 
being lifted in order to produce motion. The more the 



28 



Shop Practice for Ho7ne Mechanics 



inclined plane approaches the perpendicular, the greater 
the Aveight E must be to lift the weight F. 

The power of the Avedge is well known. The wedge is 
simply an inclined plane. Its action is illustrated in Fig. 
18. By the aid of a wedge, a man is enabled to raise a 
tremendous weight. It must be constantly borne in mind 
that the same power is necessary to raise a given weight 
a given distance. A small force applied for a great 
length of time is equal to a great force applied for a 
short time. A man may spend half a day driving wedges 
under a large block of steel to lift it ten inches. A steam- 
driven hoist of sufficient horsepower could lift the same 
block the same distance in a few seconds. 




Fig. 19 — Showing the use of the jack 



The screw is an inclined plane and a great force can 
be applied by its aid. The jack (Fig. 19) is an applica- 
tion of the screw or inclined plane, and Avith it a single 
man can lift tremendous weights. The jack is really a 
combination of the inclined plane and the lever. The 
longer the lever of the jack is, and the less the pitch of 
the threads on the screw, the greater its lifting power 

will be. 

Friction is intimately related to mechanics and it 



Introduction to Study of Elementary Mechanics 29 

should be thoroughly understood. Friction is the resist- 
ance to motion caused by one body sliding or rolling over 
another. Friction is divided into two classes: kinetic, 




Fig. 20 — A body on an inclined plane 

caused by moving bodies, and static, which is the friction 
between the surfaces of two bodies at rest. Friction is 
caused by the tiny depressions and projections of one 
body interlocking Avith those of another. The more 







Force 



Fig. 21 — How a force acting on a body at the point shown tends to 
produce rotation 

mechanically perfect the surface of a body is, the less 
friction it will offer to a body sliding or rolling over it. 
The resistance to motion offered by friction consumes a 
great amount of power. 

To better understand the relation between motion and 
friction reference should be made to Fig. 20. The body 



30 



Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 



A is at rest on the inclined plane. The static friction be- 
tween the surface of the inclined plane and the body is 
great enough to prevent the body from sliding down the 
plane. If the plane is at the proper angle, the body will 
gain motion and slide down the plane if a force is ap- 
plied at B. This proves that the static friction, or the 
friction of rest, is greater than the kinetic friction or 
friction of motion. 

If a lubricant is introduced between the body and the 
surface of the plane, the friction wnll be greatly reduced. 
The lubricant finds its way into the interstices of the 




Fig. 22 — Illustrating force and reaction 

surfaces and fills them up. As a result of this, the fric- 
tion is no longer betw^een the body and the plane but be- 
tween the surface of the body and the lubricant, and the 
surface of the plane and the lubricant. 

If a body is at rest on a horizontal plane as shown in 
Fig. 21, and a force is applied to it at A in the direction 
indicated, the frictional resistance will cause a counter- 
force B to act in the opposite direction to the force that 
is producing motion. This counter-force ^dll depend en- 
tirely upon the surfaces in contact. If the surfaces are 
smooth, the counter-force or negative force will be small. 
If the applied force is not greater than the negative 
force, no motion will be produced. If tlie applied force 



lutroductiou to Study of Elementary Mechanics 31 

is great enough, and tlie resistance high enough, the body 
will tend to rotate b}^ mounting upon its edge C. The 
edge or point C will then act as the center of a wheel. 

If a weight has to be lifted, its reactive force must be 
overcome. If the weight in Fig. 22 is lifted from its 
position, two forces must be present : one acting upward 
and one downward. If the upward force is great enough, 
the weight mil be lifted. 

At this juncture, it will be well to briefly consider grav- 
itv. Gravitv mav be defined as that attractive force 




Fig. 23 — How the gravitational lines converge to the center of 

the earth 



which exists between the earth and all bodies upon the 
earth. The weight of a body is due to the gravitational 
force that is pulling it down. Gravitational influence 
tends to pull or move a body in a direction toward the 
center of the earth. The direction of the force could be 
represented by lines as shown in Fig. 23. This is merels^ 
an illustration to show how gravity acts and it must be 
remembered that the distance from the center of the 
earth to its surface is so great in relation to any body 



32 



Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 



upon the earth, that for all practical purposes the lines 
which represent the direction of gravitational force in 
Fig. 23 can be considered parallel. 

The attractive force of gravity is the same regardless 
of its mass. Some bodies are so "light" that the resist- 
ance of the air partly overcomes gravitational force. A 
falling piece of paper will not move as rapidly as a piece 
of iron, but the force pulling upon it is just as great. 
It is erroneous to believe that the greater the mass of a 
body the more rapidly it A\ill fall. The greater the mass 
of a body the more work will have to be performed by 
the gravitational force in pulling it toward the center of 
the earth. Therefore, a small mass will fall just as rap- 
idly as a greater mass. 




Fig. 24 — Illustrating the center of gravity 



If a circle is drawn on cardboard with a compass and 
then cut out as in A, Fig. 24, the center of the circle will 
be the center of gravity. This can be proved by mount- 
ing the circle upon a pin and placing it in a vertical 
plane. The disc will not move from the position in which 
it is placed — that is, it will not move under the influence 
of gravity. This is not because gravity fails to exert its 
force, but on account of the fact that the force is just as 
great on one side as it is on the other. If the piece B 
was mounted upon a pin at C, it Avould drop to the posi- 



Introduction to Study of Elementary Mechanics 33 

tion shown at E because the gravitational force on the 
side D would be greater than on the side F. 

The center of gravity may be defined as that point in 
a body which is at the center of its magnitude. If a one- 
foot rule is balanced on a knife edge at its six-inch point, 
the rule or body is said to be in equilibrium or balance. 
In the stud}^ of theoretical mechanics it is assumed that 
gravity acts as a single force at the center of gravity in 
a body, but the body is really dra^\Ti down by a number 
of forces, acting at different points. 

The center of gravity in simple geometrical figures can 
be readily found, providing the body is perfectly homo- 
geneous. The center of gravity of the various figures 
illustrated in Fig. 25 would be found by drawing the lines 
shown. 

f/a/f way be-f-ween 
A-Banc/A-C^ 

\ A 





Fig. 25 — How the center of gravity in simple bodies can be found by 

drawing lines 

Inertia and momentum are two important terms which 
must be understood by the mechanic. Many believe that 
momentum is just the opposite of inertia, but this is not 
the fact. Newton's first law of motion states that a 
body at rest tends to remain at rest and a body in mo- 
tion ■':hat is moving in a straight line tends to remain in 
motion unless it is acted upon by another force. It may 
be said that inertia is that property possessed by a body 
that tends to resist motion when at rest and to resist any 
force that tends to produce rest when the bod}^ is in mo- 
tion. A baseball would remain in motion forever if it 



34 



Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 



was not acted upon by two other forces aside from the 
one which produced its motion. The resistance of the 
air which it is passing through gives rise to a force that 
is acting in the opposite direction to the force that pro- 
duced the motion. The gravitational force is also pull- 
ing the ball to the earth. 

The photograph (Fig. 26) illustrates a small device 
used in the physics laboratory to demonstrate inertia. 
A small ball bearing is placed on a piece of cardboard 



r^ 


""■'''•'^■■''^'^WTW^'" 


■^m---^ 


i 
1 

! 




H 




M t 



Fig. 26 — A simple apparatus for the demonstration of inertia 

which rests on a pedestal. A spring is mounted so that 
when it is drawm back and released, it will strike the card- 
board a sharp bloAv. This forces ths cardboard from 
under the ball, leaving it resting on the top of the pedes- 
tal. The inertia of the ball overcomes the force which 
tends to produce motion. 

In determining the momentum of a body, mass and ve- 
locity must be considered. Momentum is really a prod- 
uct of mass and velocity. The greater the mass and 
velocity of a body the greater its momentum will be. A 



Introduction to Study of Elementary Mechanics 35 



small body mth a great velocity may possess as much 
momentum as a larger body moving at less speed. A 
shell with a mass 1/8000 that of an express train has a 
striking force twice as great as that of an express train 
traveling 45 miles per hour. This is because of the speed 
of the projectile. 

At this point attention will be reverted to the inclined 
plane and its application to the screw. It will be under- 



1 Leaaf 



Lead 






Fig. 27 — Showing the meaning of lead, and pitch and the relation 

of the two 

stood that the screw is merely a continued inclined plane 
about a cylinder. The consideration of the screw at this 
time will be limited to an understanding of the terms used 
in connection with it. 

The pitch of a thread or screw is the distance between 
two adjacent threads when measured from center to 
center. The pitch is measured in the fractions of an 
inch. If the threads are 1/12 of an inch apart, however, 
the pitch is merely called 12 in practice and the same ex- 
pression is used for all fractions. It will be seen that the 
pitch of a thread is the distance that it Avill advance in 
one complete revolution. If the pitch is 16, the screAv will 
advance 1/16 in. in one revolution. 

The lead of a screw is the distance that it will advance 



36 Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 

in one complete revolution and it mnst not be confused 
with pitch. In the case of a single thread such as that 
shown at A, Fig. 27, the pitch and the lead will be the 
same but in the case of a double thread as illustrated at 
B, the lead mil be tmce as great as the pitch. At C, 
the lead is three times as great as the pitch. A single 
thread is one in which the lead is equal to the pitch. A 
double thread is one in Avhich the lead is tmce the pitch 
and a triple thread has a lead three times the pitch. 



60" 650 






Fig. 28 Fig. 30 Fig. 29 

Fig. 28 — The United States Standard thread 

Fig. 29 — The standard V-thread 

Fig. 30 — The English Whitworth thread 

The root diameter of a screw is the diameter measured 
at the bottom of the thread. The external diameter is 
the outside measurement over the top of the thread or at 
the widest point. 

All threads are not of the same shape. In this country, 
the United States Standard is the most widely used 
thread. An outline of this particular thread is given in 
Fig. 28. Aside from the U. S. Standard thread, the V- 
thread is used to a great extent. The shape of the V- 
thread is outlined in Fig. 29. The principle objection 
to a thread of this nature is its extreme sharpness. The 
top of the thread which comes to a point is almost impos- 
sible to cut, and once cut it wears away very rapidly and 
causes the screw to become loose. The American Society 
of Mechanical Engineers adopted a standard thread 
which is used to a great extent as well as the standard 



Introduction to Study of Elementary Mechanics 37 

adopted by the Society of Automotive Engineers. Both 
of these threads are ver^^ similar in shape to the U. S. 
Standard. The standard adopted by the American So- 
ciety of Mechanical Engineers is represented by the ini- 
tials A. S. M. E., while that of the Society of Automotive 
Engineers is knoA\Ti as the S. A. E. 

The standard thread nsed in England is known as the 
"VVhitworth. The shape of this thread is shown in Fig. 
30. It A\dll be seen that the Whitworth thread is at 55 
degrees while all the American standards are at 60 de- 
grees. Another very noticeable feature of the "Whit- 
worth thread is its ronnd top. The Whitworth thread is 
not used to a great extent in America. 




Fig, 31 — Illustrating the principle of gearing 

The subject of screw threads will be resumed in that 
portion of the volume which treats thread cutting. 

The gear takes a very important part in mechanics and 
it is quite necessary that the mechanic become acquainted 
^^ith it. Gears are used entirely for the transmission of 
power and motion. The illustration (Fig. 31), shows 
how motion or power can be transmitted by the use of 
two small wheels. The motion is transmitted from wheel 



38 Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 

A (which is the driver) to B, by friction. Such a method 
is very unsatisfactory, as a large percentage of the 
power and motion will be lost by slippage. To overcome 
this loss a more positive drive can be produced by cut- 
ting teeth in the perimeter of the Avheels. The teeth in 
one could be cut the same as the teeth in the other. If 
this is done, the wheels, or gears as they are now called, 
will fit together — the teeth of one wheel fitting into the 
depressions of the other and vice versa. In this way the 
gears are said to be in mesh. 




Fig. 32 — In gearing the speed is controlled by the proper choice 

of gears 



gears 

By reverting attention to Fig. 31, it \\i\\ be seen that 
for every revolution the wheel A makes, B will also make 
one. (This is, of course, assuming that the frictional 
losses are nil.) This is because the two wheels are of 
the same size. If B had twice the circumference of A, 
as illustrated in Fig. 32, the speed of B avouM be one- 
half that of A. It will be seen that A must revolve twice 
for every revolution made by B. If the circumference 
of B was five times greater than that of A, the speed 
would be one-fifth that of A. It mil be noticed that two 
or more gears revolving together act as a system of con- 
tinuous levers. 

Gear wheels are very scientifically made and accurately 



Introduction to Study of Elementary Mechanics 39 

cut. The various terms employed in connection mth 
gear wheels will be made clear by reference to Fig. 33. 



Circoif^ 




Fig- 33 — Showing the meaning of circular pitch, pitch diameter 
and outside diameter 

The pitch circle or diameter of a gear wheel is really 
the diameter of a plain cylinder without teeth that the 



'■l^or/77 




'Spur Gear 
Fig. 34 — Showing the use of a worm 

gear may be considered as replacing. This theoretical 
or imaginary line is represented by the dotted line. The 



40 



Shoi) Practice for Home Mechanics 



circular pitch of a gear wheel is the distance from the 
exact center of one tooth to the center of the next one at 
the point where the pitch line or circle passes through. 
This is sho\\Ti clearly in Fig. 33. 

Worm gears are really screws that mesh with gear 
wheels especially designed for this use. Such an ar- 




Fig- 35 — Proper and improper meshing of fears 

rangement for the transmission of power or motion will 
be better understood by referring to Fig. 34. It will be 
seen that the spur must be driven by the worm as it is 
impossible for the gear to turn a worm with the pitch 
showm. The number of revolutions of the worm to pro- 
duce one complete revolution of the gear will depend 




Fig. 36 — A rack and pinion 

upon the pitch of the worm when considered as a screw. 
Such arrangements as that shown in Fig. 34 are used 
when loAv speed and maximum transmissior of power is 
wanted. 

Gear wheels to work efficiently and without undue noise 
or wear must mesh properly ; their axes of rotation must 
be a specific distance apart, depending upon the pitch 
circle. The proper position of the teeth of the two gears 



lutro'ductiou to Study of Elementary Mechanics 41 

is shoAvn in Fig. 35 at A. The improper method of mesh- 
ing* the gears is shown at B. 

Another arrangement to produce motion or to trans- 
mit power by the use of gears is depicted in Fig. 36. The 
small gear (conmionly called a pinion when used in this 




Fig. 37 — Miter gears 

way) is so mounted that its teeth mesh with the teeth on 
a straight piece. The straight piece is called a rack. 
The speed of the rack for a given speed of the pinion 
will depend entirely upon the pitch diameter of the 
pinion. 




U 

Fig. 38 — Bevel gears 

Motion is transmitted at right angles by the use of 
bevel, miter or crown gears. The teeth in miter gears 
are mounted at 45 degrees so that when they mesh the 
shafts upon which they are mounted will be at right 



42 



Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 



angles. The arrangement is illnstrated in Fig. 37. Bevel 
gears are shown in Fig. 38. Crowm gears are nsed many 
times to replace bevel and miter gears. The use of 
the croAxm gear is clearly illustrated in Fig. 39. 

To enable the reader to become more fully acquainted 
with the subject, a practical problem involving a simple 




Fig. 39 — A crown gear and pinion 

formula will be considered. The shaft A (Fig. 40) is 
to be driven and calculations must be made to determine 
the proper gear to use. The power necessary to turn 




Z) 



60 Lbs. 



] 



Fig. 40 — Method of calculating the power necessary to operate 

a lever 

the shaft must be calculated and after the answer is found 
in horsepower, it is a simple matter to find a gear that 
will transmit this power. A lever is fastened to the 
shaft as shown, and the weight on the end of the lever is 
increased until the shaft is moved. It will be understood 
that the length of the lever is quite unimportant as the 



Introduction to Study of Elementary Mechanics 43 

result will be the same. The longer the lever is, the less 
weight will be needed to turn the shaft. In the case under 
consideration, it A\dll be assumed that the lever is 4 inches 
long and that a weight of 60 pounds is necessary to pro- 
duce motion. The prime mover which ^n\\ drive the 
shaft revolves at 1200 R.P.M., and the shaft is to be 

STRESS TABLES FOR BRASS, IRON, BRONZE AND STEEL 



Velocity in Feet 


Brass or 






Per Minute 


Cast Iron 


Bronze 


Steel 





7000 


10000 


17000 


100 


6000 


9000 


15000 


200 


5500 


8000 


13000 


300 


4700 


7000 


12000 


450 


4000 


6000 


10000 


600 


3500 


5500 


8500 


900 


2800 


4200 


-7000 


1200 


2300 


3500 


5800 


1800 


1500 


2250 


4200 


2400 


1300 


2000 





Fig. 41 — Stress of metals used in gears 



driven at 200 R.P.M. This is a reduction of 1 to 6 
(1200 - 200). With this information available, the fol- 
lowing formula is employed in calculating the horse- 
power necessary to drive the shaft : 

■33000 X 6 
H.P. = = 1.31 H.P. 

60(4x3.14)200 

The result of this calculation shows that a gear must 
be used that mil transmit 1.31 H.P. with a reasonable 
factor of safety. One of the first considerations will be 
the size of the gear to be used. If the speed reduction 
is to be 1 to 6, it will be understood that the driving gear 
must have a pitch circle 6 times larger than the gear on 
the shaft to be driven. 



44 Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 

The following formula is used to determine the size 

of the gear to be employed : 

FSY 

L = 

P 
A¥here : 

L = Safe working load. 

F = Face or width of gear in inches. 

S = Stress of the material used in gear (given in 

Fig. 41). 
Y = Factor for mimber of teeth (given in Fig. 42). 
P = Diametrical pitch (the pitch diameter divided 

b}^ the number of teeth). 



Number Teeth . . 


12-18 


19-25 


26-38 


39-60 


61-150 


150- 


Factor Y 


.230 


.285 


.320 


.350 


.365 


.380 



Fig. 42 — The Y factor for gears with from 12 to 150 teeth 

Upon referring to a gear catalogr^e, it is decided to use 
a gear with a pitch of 16, with 16 teeth for the shaft of 
the prime mover. The above formula will be applied to 
a gear with a ^-in. face. All the necessary factors are 
then available and they can be outlined in this manner: 

Face ■= .1 inch. 

Stress = 5500 (for bronze)! 

Factor Y = .230. 

Pitch =16. 

The solution of the problem is then arrived at as fol- 
lows: 

.1 X 5500 X .23 

L = = 7.88 load. 

16 

From this it Avill be seen that the 1-inch gear of bronze 



Introduction to Study of Elementary Mechanics 45 

■with a pitch diameter of 16 will be a suitable one to use 
on the shaft of the motor. The same formula can be ap- 
plied in all problems of this nature where the safe work- 
ing load of a gear must be calculated. 

When metal is heated it expands. Its expansion in- 
creases uniformly mth the increase in temperature. It 
has been found by experiment that every metal or alloy 
expands a definite amount for every degree increase in 
temperature. This is called the coefficient of expansion. 
It is different for different metals and alloys. The table 
beloAV gives the coefficient of expansion for different 
metals and alloys: 

Aluminum ] 0000232 

Lead 000029 

Steel (tempered) 000013 

Zinc 000029 

Brass 0000189 

Gold 000014 

Platinum 000083 

Steel (untempered) 000011 

Copper 000017 

Iron 0000112 

Silver 000019 

Tin 000022 

The linear expansion of a metal bar can be made vis- 
ible by the use of the machine shown in Fig. 43. The 
long tube A is used as a steam jacket and the metal rod 
to be tested is arranged concentrically mthin it. The 
thermometer records the rise in temperature and the 
micrometer measuring device at the end shows the ex- 
pansion in hundredths of millimeters. Steam from a 
boiler enters the tube at the end. Steam that condenses 



46 



Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 



is run off into the receptacle. First, the length of the 
rod while cold is determined. After the rod is pnt in 
lilace, the end of the micrometer rod is turned until it 
touches the end of the metal rod under test. When it 
touches, an electric circuit is completed. This causes a 
small electric bulb to light. This measurement is re- 
corded as the cold length of the rod. After the cold 
measurement has been taken, the micrometer rod is re- 
ceded and live steam is admitted to the tube. After the 
temperature has raised to a point where it remains uni- 
form, another measurement is taken and when the first 



'i-<:^ 



T/ierrnomefer..,^ 
■Electric Lamp 



Boffsry Circuit 



LiveSfeam-^ 



Q 



A-' 




a 



.■Vernier 
V^ Sere// 



''Scale 



Fig. 43 — Machine used for the measurement of linear expansion 

reading is subtracted from this, the result is the expan- 
sion that has taken place. The micrometer measuring 
device at the end of the instrument is very simple. The 
projecting scale is graduated to read in millimeters. The 
vernier is graduated in the hundredth part of a milli- 
meter. 

If it is desired to know the linear expansion of a 
metal bar when its temperature is raised 100 degrees 
Centigrade, a simple mathematical formula can be ap- 
plied instead of using the machine described above. It 
will be assumed that an iron rod 10 feet long is heated 



Introduction to Study of Elementary Medmnics 47 

100 degrees. The coefficient of expansion for iron is 
.000029. Therefore, the increase in length will be 
.000029 X 100 = .0029. This figure is multiplied by the 
number of units of length (the unit of length is the foot) 
in the bar. Thus : .0029 x 10 = .029. This, added to the 
cold length of the bar, makes its length at 100 degrees 
Centigrade 10.029 feet. 




Fig. 44 — Simple apparatus to show cubical expansion 

A simple device which is often used in the laboratory 
to demonstrate the cubical expansion of a metal ball is 
depicted in Fig. 44. When the ball is cold it will just 
pass through the opening in the stand. When its tem- 
perature has been raised a few degrees, however, the ball 
mil expand to such an extent that it will no longer pass 
through the opening. 



CHAPTER II 
The Use of Miscellaneous Tools 

Different kinds of hammers — Choice of hammers — Files — Choice of 
files — Classification of files — Use of files — Flat filing — Draw filing 
— Round filing — Scrapers — How to make scrapers — Proper use of 
scrapers — Vises — The vise used as a press — Vise jaws — Making 
soft jaws — Screw drivers — Choice of screw drivers — Hack saws — 
How to use hack saw — Center punches — Making center punches 
— Driving punches — Riveting punches — Chisels — Classification of 
chisels — Use of chisels — Taps — Dies — Use of taps — Use of dies — 
Pliers — Parallel jaw pliers — Use of pliers — Wrench — Different 
kinds of wrenches — Anvils — Use of anvil — Clamps — Types of 
clamps — Use of clamps in different work — Manipulation of mis- 
cellaneous tools. 

This chapter Avill be devoted to the use of miscel- 
laneous tools employed about the home shop. While 




Fig- 45 — A machinist's hammer with ball pene 

many of the tools included are extremely simple, this 

does not necessarily hold regarding their manipulation. 

The home shop should have at least two hanmiers. 

48 



The Use of Miscellaneous Tools 49 

These should be of the machinists' type similar to the 
one shown in Fig. 45. Machinists' hammers are classi- 
fied according to weight; heavy, medium and light 
weight. For the small shop a medimii and light weight 
hammer will be needed, but, owing to the class of work 
done, a real heavy hanmier will not be needed. The 
length of the handle of the medium weight hammer 
should be about twelve inches and the light weight ham- 
mer should have a handle about ten inches in length. The 
longer the handle of a hanmier is, the greater its striking 
force A\'ill be. For this reason the heavier hammers have 
longer handles than the light ones. Hammers are made 
with ball and straight penes. The ball pene, however, 
will be found quite suitable for most uses. 

Although the hammer is a very simple tool, it requires 
considerable skill and experience to use it properly. Part 
of the skill in the use of the hammer comes in aiming so 
that it ^\ill hit the part of the work it is intended to hit. 
Oftentimes a poorly directed blow of a hammer will com- 
pletely ruin a piece of work. The amateur mechanic 
should be particularly careful in directing the blows of 
his hammer until he is able to more accurately control 
his aim. 

It will be noticed that the face of the hammer is slightly 
convex. The pene is semi-spherical in shape so that it 
can be used for forming concave impressions in light 
sheet metal, etc. 

The file is one of the most important small tools used 
about the shop and very few mechanics kno^v how to use 
it properly. Skillful manipulation of the file is only at- 
tained after considerable experience in the shop and the 
best the following paragraphs can do is to describe the 
various files and the proper method of using them. Many 



50 



Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 



operations can be accomplished with the ordinary file 
when it is in the hands of a skilled mechanic. 

Files are classified as rongh, coarse, bastard, second 
cut, smooth and dead smooth. Files are also known as 




Double Cut 

Fig. 46— The teeth of a single-cut and double-cut file 

double-cut and single-cut, depending upon the arrange- 
ment of the teeth. In the single-cut file, all the teeth are 
parallel and at the same angle— from 60 to 80 degrees. 

m 



Hand 



Warding 



Square 




Round ' Three Squara 

Half Round 



Pit+-Saw 



Knife 



Cross-cut 



Cabinet 



Cant-File 



Crossing 



Fig. 47— The various-shaped files that are on the market 



The double-cut file has two sets of teeth, each at a dif- 
ferent angle. The difference between the double- and 
single-cut file is depicted in Fig. 46. The teeth in a 



The Use of Miscellaneous Tools 51 

double-cut file are generally at an angle of 40 degrees in 
one direction and from 75 to 80 degrees in the opposite 
direction. 

Files are manufactured in a multitude of different 
shapes, and many arc made for very special purposes. 




Fig. 48 — Improper method of holding a long, thin file 

A cross-section of all the common shapes is shown in 
Fig. 47. Files are made in many different lengths, the 
shorter type being used for fine work while the larger 



Fig. 49 — How a thin file will bend when held in the manner shown 

in Fig. 48 

ones are used for heavier work. Files of the same grade 
have the same number of teeth per inch only when they 
are the same length. Thus, a second-cut tile 9 inches in 
length would be more coarse than a second-cut file 5 
inches in length. This is quite necessary as a bastard 



52 



Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 



file 4 inches in length would have hut a few teeth upon its 
surface. Therefore it is necessary to reduce their size 
in proportion to the length of the file. This must be 
kept in mind when dealing with ordinary files. It must 




Fig. 50 — Proper method of holding a long, thin file 

also be understood that the length of the file does not 
include the tang which is the part that holds the handle. 
The first thing that the mechanic must learn in using 
a file is the method of holding it. A file can only be used 
advantageously when it is held properly. In ordinary 



m 




Fig. 51 — (A) A file held in the manner pictured in Fig. 48 will cut 
the corners of the work off as shown. (B) How a file bends when 
held in the manner pictured in Fig. 50 

cross filing — that is, filing directly across the work — a 
thick, medium-sized file should be held as sho"WTi in Fig. 
48. When holding the file in this manner, it will be found 
that it can be controlled very easily and that the hands 
are not easily fatigued, omng to the fact that it is not 
necessary to tightly grip the file. The forward stroke of 
the file should be firm and positive as the file only cuts 
when moving in this direction. The return stroke should 
be very light to prevent the teeth from wearing down. 



The Use of Miscellaneous Tools 53 

If a long, thin file is held in the manner depicted in 
Fig. 48, it will have a tendency to bend as sho^^^l in Fig. 
49. In such instances, the position of the hands can be 
changed to that showni in Fig. 50. When held in this 
manner it mil be found that exceptionally flat surfaces 
can be produced. This is made possible by the file 
slightly bending so that its cutting side becomes convex. 
When a thin file is held as sho\^^l in Fie:. 48 it \W11 cut 




Fig. 52 — The proper method of holding a small file with the fingers 

the edges off the work as illustrated in Fig. 51 at A. 
This is due to the downward pressure at the ends. An 
upward pressure at the end caused by holding a thin file 
as illustrated at Fig. 50 will make it bend in the opposite 
direction as showTi in Fig. 51 at B. 

If a perfectly flat surface is to be produced, it will be 
necessary to use a file ^vith a slight "belly." A perfectly 
flat file cannot be employed for the reason that it is al- 
most impossible for a mechanic to hold it truly parallel 



54 Shop Pracfice for Home Mechanics 

with the surface being filed. Files are manufactured 
with a slight "belly" at the heel (the heel is the end op- 
posite to the tang or handle) and such files are said to be 
tapered. The careful workman always selects a tapered 
file if he has any flat surfaces to produce. Such a file 
must move from one edge of the work to the other to 
prevent a concave surface being produced. A tapered 
file, or one having a "belly" can be found by running the 
eye along the surface. 

When a very small file is being used on delicate work, 




Fig- 53 — Method of cutting fast with a file 

it is generally held in one hand as shown in Fig, 52. It 
will be found that a remarkable control can be had over 
the movement of the file when held in this manner. 

In heavN' cross-filing where great pressure must bo 
used in holding the file to the surface of the work during 
the cutting stroke, the mechanic should stand back from 
the work mth one foot in advance of the other. On the 
cutting stroke the body should be braced against the rear 
foot, at the same time relieving the pressure on the for- 
ward foot. On the return stroke, the weight of the body 



The Use of Miscellaneous Tools 



55 



should be shifted to the forward stroke and all the pres- 
sure exerted on the file should be relieved. The file 
should be completely removed from the surface of the 
work when it i'S wished to examine the surface. 

When a great amount of stock is to be removed, the 
direction of the stroke of the file should be changed oc- 
casionally. This will greatly facilitate the removal of 
metal. If a large amount of metal is to be removed from 
a very narrow surface, the direction of the stroke should 
be changed occasionally as depicted by the dotted lines 
in Fig. 53. When a narrow piece is filed in this manner, 
a new file should never be employed as but a few teeth 




Fig. 54 — A half-round file should be run from one side of the work 
to the other, as from A to B 



come in contact ^\Ai\l the work at a time and they are apt 
to take hold so freely that their edges will be broken off. 

Before selecting a file for a certain job, the mechanic 
should always take note of the metal to be filed, the size 
of the work and the amount of stock to be removed. 

Half-round files (they are commonly called half-round 
but they are really about one-third round) are used as 
illustrated in Fig. 54. The cutting stroke should be a 
sweeping one, starting at one side and ending at the 
other. The position A is the starting position and the 
position B is where the cutting stroke ends. 



56 



Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 



When a round hole is being filed out with a round file, 
the diameter of the file should be as close to the diameter 
of the hole as possible without interfering with the move- 
ment of the file. If a file the diameter of the dotted lines 



p 


^^■111 • 


■ 


pv 




1 


^MmmM, 


^B 



Fig- 55 — Showing the proper size round file to use in filing out a 
round hole. The mechanic will get a good idea of the relation 
of the file to the hole by studying this sketch 

(Fig. 55) is used it will produce ridges in the surface. 
This can be avoided by employing a larger file as shown 
bv the full line. 





Edge Srouncf 
/off 


mWMA 







Fig. 56 — Showing the advantage of grinding one edge of a file off for 
work of the nature illustrated 

Oftentimes there is a surface at right angles to the one 
being filed and which is in a finished condition iand w^ith 
which the worker does not wish to bring his file in con- 
tact. This can be avoided by employing a file with one 
edge ground off. This is shoA\m in Fig. 56. 



The Use of Miscellaneous Tools 



57 



If a slot is to be cut, it is first drilled out roughly as 
illustrated in Fig. 57. After the drilling is finished, a 
fiat file is inserted and the superfluous metal is removed 
in this manner. 



Fig- 57 — Method of making a slot with a file 

Draw filing is sho^\ai in Fig. 58. While it is impossible 
to remove metal quickly by this method, it will produce 
more accurate results than cross filing and it is therefore 
a better method for the more unskilled mechanic. 




Fig. 58 — Draw filing 

After a file has been used for some time the space be- 
tween the teeth becomes filled mth metal chips. Part of 
these can be removed by striking the file a sharp blow 
on the edge of the bench. Those that are not dislodged 
in this manner must be removed Avith a file brush (see 
Fig. 59). Some of the tiny pieces of metal will be 



58 



Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 



wedged so tightly between the teeth that it will be neces- 
sary to employ a sharp-pointed rod to remove them. 
Such rods are generally furnished with file brushes. 

The small shop should be equipped with at least a 
dozen files of different shapes and cuts. If very small 
work is being done, an assortment of files known as 
"Swiss" files should be purchased. These files can be 




Fig- 59 — Cleaning a file with a file brush 



obtained in a multitude of shapes and grades. They are 
especially manufactured for small, delicate work. 

As a resume of what has been said concerning the clas- 
sification of files, it can be repeated that they are desig- 
nated according to their length, cross-section, cut (double 
or single) and coarseness. 

The process of scraping is closely allied with that of 
filing and it will be well to consider it at this point. 



The Use of Miscellaneous Tools 



59 



Scraping is generally resorted to when it is impossible 
to use a file. 

A very useful little scraper for many purposes can be 
made from a small triangular file. The teeth are care- 
fully ground off on an abrasive wheel and the edges are 
then rubbed with a small carborundum stone to sharpen 
them. In grinding the teeth off, the file should be dipped 
in water occasionally to cool it. If this is not done, it 
may undergo a process of tempering which will soften 
it considerably. The scraper should be provided with a 
small wooden handle as shown at A in Fig. 60. This 





Fig. 60 — Different types of scrapers 



scraper will be found very efficient in removing burrs 
from metal tubing after it has been cut off in the lathe. 
One of the edges is pressed firmly against the inside edge 
of the tube while the lathe is revolving. This mil quickly 
remove the burrs, leaving a nice, smooth edge. Burrs 
can also be removed with this scraper when the work is 
held in the hand, but it is more convenient when the lathe 
is used. It will also be found that this tool can be used 
for scraping the whole interior surface of a soft metal 
tube when it is revolving at high speed in a speed lathe. 



GO 



Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 



There is often occasion to employ a flat scraper in the 
shop for various jobs and the beginner will be surprised 
to know that surfaces produced by the aid of this simple 
tool are much more accurate than those produced by a 
file. A flat scraper is outlined at B, Fig. 60. This can 
be ground to shape from a ten- or twelve-inch file. A 
file with siifficient thickness should be used as the scraper 
is subjected to considerable strain when in use. The 




Fig. 6i — How a scraper is held in working 



cutting end should have a thickness in the neighborhood 
of Vi6 to i/s inch. The cutting edge should be ground at 
exact right angles and slightly rounded at the extreme 
corners. This is to prevent the corners from scraping 
or gouging small valleys into the surface of the work. 
The tool should be drawn across the work firmly and with 
considerable pressure. The method of holding scrapers 



The Use of Miscellaneous Tools 



61 



is shown in Fig. 61. The edge of the scraper should be 
kept keen by giving it an occasional rubbing with a small 
hand stone. 

Another type of scraper is depicted at C in Fig. 60. 
It is necessary to forge this tool as its end is bent over at 
right angles. This tool has one disadvantage ; its cutting 
edge is obscured. The tool is drawn toward the user and 
it is capable of doing very tine work. 

A scraper with a circular cutting edge is necessary 
when working with concave surfaces. Such a scraper is 




Fig. 62 — A very substantial vise for the home shop 

shown at D, Fig. 60. It is used in the same manner as 
the first straight scraper described. The straight scraper 
can be used on convex as well as plain surfaces. 

The small shop should have in its equipment at least 
two vises — a heavy one for the larger work and a small 
one to accommodate smaller pieces. The mounting of a 
vise is very important as it should be at the proper height 
to suit the workman Avho is going to use it. To determine 
the distance which the vise should be mounted from the 
floor, the mechanic should stand with his hand placed on 
his chin and Avhen in this position the top of the vise 
should be high enough to rest the elbow on. The me- 



62 Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 

chanic should stand perfectly erect when making this de- 
termination. The vise should he securely holted to the 
bench and the bolts should pass completely through the 
bench. It must be remembered that a vise is subjected 
to great strain when the jaws are tightened. If it is 
mounted badly it will soon become loose and therefore 
-it is best to mount it securely the first time. A photo- 
graph of a medium-sized vise, suitable for use in a small 
shop, is shown in Fig. 62. 

When carefully finished Avork is held in the vise the 
jaws will leave ugly impressions upon the surface of the 
work when it is removed. This can be overcome by fitting 
lead covers over the jaws. Lead is very soft and "wdll 
hold polished work without marring its surfaces. If an 
especially tight grip is necessary the lead is very apt to 
be cut and in this event soft brass jaws can be substi- 
tuted. Before mounting the brass covers in place they 
should be heated to redness and immersed in cold water 
to soften them. This process may appear to be wrong 
to those who understand that steel is hardened by heat- 
ing it and then immersing it in a cold fluid. Just the op- 
posite holds true of brass; it is softened when heated 
and suddenly cooled. 

Oftentimes it is necessary to hold a piece of Avork in 
the vise which does not have parallel sides. This diffi- 
culty can be overcome in many cases by employing the 
small device shown in Fig. 63. 

It Avill be understood that the vise is a combination of 
the lever and screw or inclined plane, and therefore a 
tremendous pressure can be exerted between the jaws. 
This pressure can be taken advantage of many times 
when forcing one piece of metal into a hole in another 
piece. If a piece of heavy metal tubing, for instance, is 



The Use of Miscellaneous Tools 



63 



to be flattened at one end, this can be accomplished in the 
vise with accuracy and ease. All large vises are provided 
with an an^dl at the back which will be found yqyj con- 
venient in many operations. 

It may seem absurd to many to mention such a simple 
detail as a screwdriver and yet few mechanics use dis- 
cretion in choosing these important devices. The home 
shop should boast of an assortment of screwdrivers num- 
bering at least five; from a large heavy one to a small 
delicate one for the most minute screws. There is prob- 




Fig. 63 — Holding odd-shaped pieces in the vise 



ably no other tool that will destroy itself more quickly 
than a screwdriver if it is of poor quality. When a 
screwdriver is purchased it should be of the best quality 
obtainable Avith a solid wooden handle well secured to the 
metal part. The point of a screwdriver should be well 
taken care of and it should not be allowed to become 
blunt and badly worn. This mil cause it to twist screw 
heads out of shape and to slip out of the slot when great 
twisting force is exerted. It is -a very easy matter to 
keep the point of a screwdriver well trimmed and square 



64 Shop Practice for Home Mecliamcs 

by the use of a good sharp file or grinding wheel. As 
the point is filed back the taper should also be increased 
so that the edge will always be the same width. The 
screwdriver should never be used as a chisel or cutting 
tool. In some shops its use ranges from a Avood gouge 
to a nail set. 

A hack saw is an important and much-used tool. A 
typical hack saw is illustrated in Fig. 64. It Avill be seen 
that it consists of a frame \\ith a handle on it and the 
cutting element or blade is held tightly in the frame. 
The blade is a thin piece of very hard steel with teeth on 
one edge. The blade has a small hole at each end and 
these fit over pins in the frame. When the blade is in 



[LXI 




Fig. 64 — An ordinary hack saw for shop use 



place on the pins the handle is turned around until 
the blade is draA\ai tightly in the frame. This is accom- 
plished by a screw in the handle of the hack-saw frame 
which pulls the one pin back wlun the handle is turned. 
Most hack-saw frames are made adjustable so that blades 
of various lengths can be used. In mounting a blade in 
the frame, the teeth should always point away from the 
handle, otherwise the saw will cut on the return stroke 
rather than on the forward stroke. 

In cutting metal with, a hack saw a firm, well-regulated 
stroke should be used. The saw should be sent on its 
for^vard or cutting stroke aided by considerable pressure 
applied by both hands. All pressure should be relieved 



The Use of Miscellaneous Tools 



65 



on the return stroke to prevent the teeth from becoming 
dull. Many mechanics use a hack saw with such haste 
and indiscretion that few blades used by them have a 
chance to become dull before they are broken. In using 
a hack saw care should be taken to make the blade travel 
in a perfectly straight line. AVhen the saw is deep intp 
the metal which is being cut any change in the cutting 
angle Avill snap the blade. If the blade is pulled too 
tightly in the frame it will break quickly if the frame is 
not held accurately while sawing. Many times it is neces- 
sary to turn the blade of the hack saw sideways to make 
certain cuts. This use of the saw is shown in Fig. 65. 




Fig. 65 — Using the hack saw with the blade turned sidewise 



What is known as a jeweler's hack saw finds a multi 
tude of uses in connection with small, delicate parts, 
Such a hack saw is shown in Fig. Q>Q. It consists of a 
very fine blade mounted in a small wire frame. Such a 
blade can be used for saving circles owdng to its small 
size. It will also leave a very fine cut where the larger 
blade will leave a wide ugly cut with burred edges. 

Hack saws will cut brass, bronze, cast iron, wrought 
iron, mild steel, etc. If a metal has a hardness which ap- 



66 



Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 



proaehes that of the blade itself, the blade will not cut it. 
For all the harder metals such as niild steel, a lubricant 
should be used on the blade of the saw. 

When sawing brass, the strokes should not number 
over 120 per minute. This number should be reduced to 
60 when sawing steel. 




Fig. 66^Slotting with a very small hack saw 



A good center punch is a necessity about the shop. 
The point of the punch should be extremely hard and 
sharp. If the point is too soft, it will become blunt when 
used to punch steel or any hard metal. Very good 
punches can be purchased for a few cents, and, if the 
mechanic desires, one can be easily ground to shape from 
an old round file. The point of" the punch should be 
ground at an angle of 60 degrees. During the grinding, 



The Use of Miscellaneous Tools 



67 



the file should be iiiunersed in cold water occasionally so 
that it mil maintain its hardness. Punches of this type 
are known as center punches and at least two should be 
included in the shop equipment. A heavy punch should 



.'■Punch 




Fig. 67 — Setting a screw with a centering punch 

be used on work where a large impression is to be made. 
A small punch should be employed in connection with 
more delicate parts. 

Center punches are used mostly in drilling to mark the 



< 



Fig. 68 — Different types of centering and driving punches 

position where the hole is to be made. They have other 
uses also, and one of these is sho^\Ti in Fig. 67. The screw 
is to be held in place so that it ^^^ll not become loose. A 
smart blow -wdth the center punch mil spread the end of 
the screw and prevent it from becoming loose. 



68 



Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 



Round- and flat-nose punches are needed at times to 
drive pins and studs in and out. An ordinary pointed 
center punch cannot be used for this purpose as it ^\\\\ 
spread the end of the pin. A group of punches for the 
shop are shown in Fig. 68. 




1 



ABC 
Fig. 69 — Properly and improperly placed rivets 

A riveting punch has a concave impression at the end. 
Such punches are used exchisively for rounding and 
spreading the heads of copper and brass rivets after 
they are put in place. The proper method of putting a 
rivet in place is illustrated at A, Fig. 69. To set rivets 




Fig. 70 — How a chisel should be ground 

properly, the hole in which they are placed should be 
just the right size so that the rivet will fit snugly. If the 
hole is too large the rivet mil bend as sho\^^l at B, Fig 
69. If any great strain is placed upon the rivet there- 
after, it will tend to straighten out and this will cause it 
to loosen. If the end of a rivet is left too long it mil 



The Use of Miscellaneous Tools 69 

bend over as illustrated at C, Fig. 69. This results in a 
poor-looking job. The protruding portion of a rivet be- 
fore it is flattened depends somewhat upon the diameter. 
In the average case, i/g in. is sufficient, l^'or very small 
rivets 1/16 in, will suffice. 

The chisel is a much-used tool. It is employed in cut- 
ting copper, babbitt, lead, brass, steel and iron. It is 
used largely in removing superfluous metal from rough 
castings. A common chisel used for ordinary chipping 
is shoMTi in Fig. 70 at A. It is forged from a piece of 
octagonal steel with flat surfaces ground about 3 inches 
back from the cutting edge. The angle of the faces which 
form the cutting edge varies according to the metal being- 
cut. For soft metals such as copper, babbitt, etc., from 
25 to 30 degrees will be found sufficient; for brass and 
cast iron angles should be from 40 to 55 degrees, while 
for steel they should be increased to from 60 to 70 de- 
grees. The faces of the chisel should be perfectly flat 
and not rounded as shown in Fig. 70, B. To facilitate 
the cutting edge it is ground rntli a slight curvature as 
sho^vn in Fig. 70, C. 




D 



Fig. 71 — A special type of chisel used on work where it is desired that 
the tool should not dig deeply under the surface 

A special type of chisel is shoA\Ti in Fig. 71. This is 
used in cases where it is desired to have the chisel follow 
a nearly parallel line to the surfaces of the Avork. 

The chisel shoA\Ti in Fig. 72 is known as a diamond- 
point chisel and it is used for squaring corners. It is 
ground in the same way for use with all metals. 

The chisel in Fig. 73 is known as a cape chisel. This 



70 Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 

is used principally for cutting grooves. It will be noticed 
that it has a very flat, narrow nose. 

In nsing a chisel it sliould be grasped in the full hand 
with the knuckles held upward. The chisel should not 
be held too tightly as this will interfere with guiding it. 



a 



Fig. 72 — A diamond-pointed chisel 

The grip should just be sufficient to enable the user to 
exercise perfect control over the course the cutting edge 
is taking. In actual use the cutting edge of the chisel 
should be watched rather than the opposite end. Tlie 
hammer used should have sufficient weight to drive the 
chisel forward and light hanuners are not suitable for 




Fig. 73 — A cape chisel 

this purpose unless the chisel is very small. The chisel 
should be struck with a light blow first and followed with 
a heavy cutting blow. The light blow is made to better 
the aim of the mechanic and to obviate battered knuckles. 
The proper method of handling a chisel is sho^m in 
Fig. 74. 

Threads are cut two ways ; on the lathe and by means 
of hand tools. Thread cutting on the lathe mil be de- 
scribed in Chapter 5. The present consideration ^y\\\ 
be limited to hand tools used in the production of internal 
and external threads. In producing an internal thread 



The Use of Miscellaneous Tools 



71 



what is called a tap is used. Several large taps are shoAvn 
in Fig. 75. These are made of extremely hard steel with 
a definite diameter. A certain sized drill must be used 
with each tap and taps of certain makes have the drill 




Fig. 74^Using a small chisel in removing superfluous metal from a 

small casting 

size stamped upon the shank. For instance, an 8/32 tap 
requires a No. 28 drill. In using the tap, a hole is drilled 
with the No. 28 drill to the proper depth. The tap is 
then inserted in a tap wrench (Fig. 76). The point of 
the tap is then placed in the hole and pressed firmly down 



72 



Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 



with a twisting motion. In doing this the tap must Idg 
held as straight as possible or otherwise the threads will 
he inaccurate and the screw will not be straight when put 
in place. After the threads are started, the tap is tirst 
advanced and then the direction is reversed for a revo- 
lution or two to relieve the strain on the tap. For every 
revolution the tap is reversed, it is advanced three or 
four. This is continued until the tap reaches the end of 
tlie hole, or, if the hole is completely through the work, 
until the tap protrudes sufficiently at the opposite end. 
If the direction of the tap is not reversed frequently a 




Fig- 75 — Three large hand taps of different size 

great strain will be imposed upon it and it will probably 
snap in two before it is advanced very far. Taps are 
extremely brittle and they must be handled with great 
care. This is especially true of the smaller sizes. After 
the mechanic has used a tap a number of times, his fin- 
gers will become sensitive and he will know at just what 
point to reverse the tap. The proper size drill should 
always be" used as a too-large drill will result in thin 
threads and a too-small one mil break the tap. What is 
known as a drill gauge can be used to determine the 



The Use of Miscellaneous Tools 



73 



proper size drill to use for all sizes of taps. A drill 
gauge is shown in Fig. Tr. Each hole in the gauge rep- 
resents a drill of a certain size and beside this hole is a 
corresponding tap number. For instance, opposite the 
hole marked No. 28 will be found tlie number 8/32. When 
using the tap in connection with steel, a lubricating sub- 
stance should be employed. Ordinary lubricating oil will 




Fig. 76 — Using a small tap in a tap wrench 



be found suitable for this purpose and the tap should be 
dipped in it before cutting is started. 

A very useful little kink is illustrated in Fig. 78. This 
is for guiding the t^ps so they will enter the hole straight. 
A hole the proper size (not too large) is drilled through 
a block of Avood and this is placed over the hole to be 
tapped. The tap is then inserted as shown. 



74 



Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 



The larger taps are made in three different types. 
These are shown in Fig. 79. The first is known as the 




Fig. 77 — Determining the size of a twist drill with a gauge 

taper tap and this is emploj^ed for all ordinary purposes. 
The second one is known as the plug tap and it mil be 
noticed that it has a very small taper. The third tj^pe 



iWooden Block 




Hole fo be lapped--'' 
Fig. 78 — How a wooden block is used to guide a tap 



The Use of Miscellaneous Tools 



ID 



is kno\^^l as a bottoming- tap and it lias loractically no 
taper except on the first thread. The nse of the plug 



_jJpiAf Jio i ii ■ i ^ftw' i h JMAt 



jjirmTrnTi-imTTT^ 



Fig- 79 — A taper tap is shown at the top. The center shows a plug 
tap and a bottoming tap is illustrated at the bottom 

and bottoming tap will become evident npon referring 
to Fig. 80. Here it will be seen that the taper of the 




Fig. 80 — A taper tap will not cut threads to the bottom of the hole 

taper tap prevents it from producing threads in the bot- 
tom of the hole. In such a case, the threads would be 



76 Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 

started with a taper tap and after this was taken out the 
plug tap would be inserted and run as far as possible. 
If it was desired to continue the threads directly to the 
bottom of the hole, the bottoming tap would be used after 
the plug tap was removed. The taper is placed on a 
tap to relieve the strain on the threads. For this reason 
if the plug or bottoming tap should be used first a tre- 
mendous strain would be imposed upon the threads of 
the tap which would cause them to break. 

Some taps are made with a shank smaller than the 





■ ^- ■ 


liiMiiiiiM^^' — 


r^\ 


^^^■wiiit . 


I -'z] ■ ■ ' 


^^^m J 

^^m. ^ 





Fig. 8i— A die stock and a number of small dies used with it 

diameter of the cutting portion. Such a tap can be run 
completel}^ through a hole. Some taps, however, are not 
made in this way and the shank is larger than the cutting 
part. 

Taps should be well taken care of. They are ver^^ sus- 
ceptible to moisture and for this reason should be dipped 
in lubricating oil or vaseline before they are put awaj". 
This protects them from moisture and the consequent 
rust which causes them to become dull and useless. 

Dies are used in producing external threads. A set 
of small dies is sho^\ii in Fig. 81. If it is desired to put a 



The Use of Miscellaneous Tools 77 

thread upon a rod a die is used. For instance, if it was 
desired to make a screw that would fit the threads left in 
a hole drilled ^^^th a No. 28 drill and tapped with an 8/32 
tap, an 8/32 die would be used to cut the threads on the 
rod. In doing this, the die must be held in what is known 
as a die stock. A die stock with a die in it is shown in 
Fig. 81. The die is held in the stock by means of a small 
set screw which is tightened with a screwdriver after the 
die is put in place. Upon examining the die, it will be 
noticed that it has an internal taper at one side. This 
side is placed upon the rod to be threaded and with a 




Fig. 82 — The method of producing a thread close to the shoulder as 
shown is described in the text 

firm twdsting motion and downward pressure the threads 
are cut upon the rod. To assist the die in cutting, the 
backward and forward motion is followed as in cutting 
internal threads with a tap. 

If it is desired to cut threads upon a shoulder as sho\v^l 
in Fig. 82, the die should be taken off after it has been 
advanced as far as possible in one direction and turned 
around, owing to the fact that the internal taper is on 
one side only it will be possible to advance the opposite 
side very close to the shoulder. 

Many of the small dies are provided ^yith a screw on 
their periphery by means of which it is possible to adjust 
them M^thin a thousandth of an inch. This is done with 



78 



Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 



a small screwdriver as shown m Fig. 83. In starting a 
die upon a rod, some caution will have to be exercised in 
seeing that it is true. If the stock does not revolve in a 
perfectly true plane, the threads cut will not be accurate 
and the nut when put in jjlace will be higher on one side 
than on the other. When steel or wrought iron stock is 




Fig. 83 — Adjusting a small die with a screwdriver 

being threaded with a small die it should lie well lubri- 
cated with machine oil. This will not only assist in 
keeping the threads of the die sharp, but will often pre- 
vent them from breaking when under strain. The stock 
should not be revolving too rapidly, as this causes an 
undue strain upon the parts. After the threads have 
been cut, the die can be removed by spinning the stock 
in the opposite direction. This spinning can be contin- 
ued until the die approaches the top of the rod upon 
which the threads have been cut. If it is allowed to spin 



The Use of Miscellaneous Tools 79 

until it reaches the top, it \\i\\ revolve there and in all 
probability destroy the first thread. 

For thread cutting on large rods and pipes larger dies 
and taps are used. The dies used on such work are gen- 
erall}'' adjustable within \\'ide limits. This is accom- 
plished by using what is knoAvn as the split die, that is, 
a die which is made in two pieces. The die stock is so 
arranged that it will hold these pieces in place and means 
is also provided to adjust the blocks. Such a die stock, 
together mth an assortment of blocks, is shown in Fig. 




Fig. 84 — A split die and die stock 

84. Owing to the long handles on such large die stocks, 
a powerful leverage is produced and it requires very 
little strength to produce threads on large rods of steel, 
brass or iron. 

Like taps, dies 'should be well taken care of, and after 
being used they should be carefully wiped off and 
smeared with either luachine oil or vaseline to protect 
them from moisture. If the threads become rusted, they 
will not only lose their sharpness but their size, and 
therefore become useless. 

It is important to have several pair of pliers on hand. 
At least one of these should be of the "wn re-cutting va- 
riety. A very small pair that can be used in handling 
small parts should be included. The ordinary \vire- 



80 



SJiofJ Practice for Home Mechanics 



cutting pliers are so arranged that their jaws are at 
an angle when open. When they are used for purposes 
other than cutting wire, this is a disadvantage as will be 




Fig. 85A — How the jaws of an ordinary pair of pliers grip a pin 

seen by referring to Fig. 85A. In removing a stud with 
such a pair of pliers, the top of the stud will be badly 
damaged as the pliers merely grip the edges. For such 





Fig. 85B — At the top is shown a pair of ordinary pliers. At the 
bottom is shown a pair of parallel jaw pliers 

work, what is known as parallel jaw^ pliers should be 
used. Such a pair of pliers is shown in Fig. 85, B. The 



The Use of Miscellaneous Tools 



81 



parallel jaw pliers are so made that their jaws will open 
parallel to one another, and owing to the large contacting 
surfaces a very powerful grip is produced. The wire- 
cutting pliers have two sharp edges and the sides of 




Fig. 86 — An adjustable wrench 

these are used for cutting wire, small pieces of brass 
stock, etc. 

Like pliers, wrenches are much-used tools, in tighten- 
ing and loosening bolts, holding stock, etc. A good type 






Fig. 87 — Two types of non-adjustable wrenches 

of wrench is shown in Fig. 86. It will be noticed that 
only one jaw is adjustable and this is moved by means 
of the knurled nut which has internal threads that en- 
gage with the rods upon which the one jaw slides. At 
least two wrenches should be included in the equipment 
of the shop. In the average case a medium-size wrench 
and a small-size wrench will suffice. 



82 



Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 



Many times use is found for non-adjustable wrenches 
and if possible it is well to have a set of the smaller size 
on hand. Owing to the fact that the jaws are immovable 
there is no play between them and the nut being turned. 




Fig. 88 — A small anvil for shop use 

This reduces the possibility of the wrench slipping off 
the nut to a minimum. No matter how well made, ad- 
justable jaw wrenches have some play and when they 




Fig. 89 — How a piece of sheet metal is bent on a small anvil 

become worn they are very apt to destroy the corners of 
small hexagonal bolts by slipping around. Once a wrench 
slips in this way it rapidly degenerates into a nuisance. 



The Use of Mlscellaneoits Tools 



83 



Non-adjustable wrenches are made in two styles ; double 
end and single end. One of each type is shown in Fig. 87. 
An extremely useful little device is sIiomti in Fig. 88. 
This is a small bench anvil and it will find a multitude of 
uses. These anvils are manufactured with perfectly true 
surfaces, well hardened and mth milled grooves and 
slots. The flat surfaces of the anvil on the top are used 
for straightening work which has sprung. The edges are 
very useful in bending sheet metal at right angles. If it 



r'=h 



^. -Brass 



'i-Sfeel Rod 



-Wood Handfe 



Fig. go — A brass hammer 

is desired to bend the metal perfectly square and true 
one of its edges should be placed against the edge of the 
anvil ^^'ith the end, overlapping at the side the proper dis- 
tance. This is illustrated in Fig. 89. The horn of the 
anvil is used in circular work. 

In bending soft brass stock over the anvil it is best to 
use a hammer that will not mar the surface. Such a ham- 
mer can be made from a piece of round brass stock pro- 
vided yAi\\ a handle. A hammer of this kind is shown in 
Fig. 90. It is also well to have a real heavy hammer 
made of lead to use with soft materials. If a pin is to 



84 



Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 



be driven in place and the worker wishes to keep it in 
shape the lead hammer ^\i\\ be found to work very effec- 
tively. 

The small clamps shown in Fig. 91 are used for a ninh 
titiide of purposes about the shop. For instance if two 



([^mHi 



^SUMH 



WTOWWiW 



m 



Fig. gi — A pair of small clamps which find a multitude of uses 
about the small shop 

pieces are to be soldered together they can be held in the 
clamps during the operation, or, if a piece of stock is to 
be drilled it can be conveniently held in the clamp while 
the drilling is done. There are many other instances 
where such clamps can be used. 



Fig. 92 — A letter punch used on metal 

Metal stock can be marked with letters l)y the aid of 
special steel punches which have the letters and figures 
formed in their end. Such a steel punch with a hand 
cut steel letter in the end is shown in Fig. 92. 



CHAPTER III 
Measuring Instruments and Their Use 

The standards of measurement — American standards — The scale — 
The square — Use of the square — Adjustable squares — Calipers — 
Inside calipers — Outside calipers — Shoulder calipers — Use of dif- 
ferent types of calipers — Odd measurements made with calipers — 
Dividers — Use of dividers — ^Marking out v\?ith dividers — The 
micrometer — Construction of micrometer — How to read a mi- 
crometer — How to take care of a micrometer — Micrometer ver- 
nier — Micrometer vernier and how to read it — Vernier calipers — 
How to read vernier calipers — Use of vernier calipers as height 
gauge — Surface gauges — Use of surface gauges — Surface plates — 
Marking out with surface plates — Protractors — Use of protractors 
in marking out — Use of miscellaneous measuring tools. 

The accuracy of a mechanic's work generally depends 
upon his ability in manipulating measuring tools. The 
author regards this particular phase of mechanical shop 
practice of sufficient importance to devote a complete 
chapter to, and in the following lines the reader will find 
enough information and data to enable him to use me- 
chanical measuring instruments intelligently. The im- 
portance of this cannot be over-estimated. When the 
author was a lad, a seasoned old mechanic happened to 
see him trying to use his eye in place of a measuring in- 
strument. He well remembers how the old man repri- 
manded him for trying to substitute his eye for a more 
accurate measuring tool. The lesson was never for- 
gotten. 

The most mdely used unit of measurement in the 
United States is the inch. On the Continent the milli- 
meter is used entirely, and, in fact, in some industrial 

85 



86 



SJioi) Practice for Home Mechanics 



institutions in the United States, it is used to some ex- 
tent. Few measuring instruments are manufactured in 
this country that measure in millimeters, and for this 
reason the inch and its parts alone will be considered in 
this treatment. 



'1' 


1 1 1 1 
11 


W 6 


Ml 1! 
8 ' 


le 

lllllll 1 


1 

lllll llllll 


2 

lllllll 


3 

lllllll lllllll 


Ihllll 


4 

lllllll III 



Fig. 93 — Section of a small scale 

The scale is the most important measuring tool and 
the amateur mechanic must learn to use it properly be- 
fore he can hope to master the more complicated devices. 
The scale is really a ruler in common terms with the 




Fig 94 — An adjustable machinists square and level combined 

divisions engraved on a piece of steel. Scales are pro- 
curable from two inches to one foot in length. The 
divisions are marked ot¥ very accurately. A scale has 
each of its four edges engraved. One edge is subdivided 
into sixteenths of an inch; one into thirty-seconds; one 
into sixty-fourths and one into one-hundredths. The 
smaller divisions are onlv used when necessarv. All 



Measuring Instruments 



87 



common measurements such as 14, %, V21 %» ^t^-» ^^® 
measured wdth the 16ths scale. Thirty-seconds can be 
read off very easily, but it requires very good eyesight 
^vhen measuring in 64ths or lOOths. The lOOths of an 
inch is the smallest division employed upon scales as it 
would be impossible for the eye to discern a smaller sub- 
division. A 6-in. scale is shown in Fig. 93. 

A square is a much-used instrument about the shop, 
and furthermore it is an absolute necessity. An ad- 
justable square is shovni in Fig. 94. It A\dll be seen that 
it embodies a scale sliding in a holder. The scale has a 
groove in its c?nter and by means of a knurled nut it is 
possible to lock the square in any position. In determin- 
ing whether or not a piece of work is square the square 
should be applied as shown in Fig. 95. The worker 
should always face the light when making this determina- 




Fig- 95 — The use of the square 



tion and if a perfectly true surface is desired it should 
be scraped or ground until absolutely no light can be 
seen between the edge of the square and the surface of 
the work. Non-adjustable squares are also made, and one 
of these is shoA\^i in Fig. 96. In measuring small pieces 
it is very convenient to use such a little square as it is 
possible to rest the work against the square as shown in 



Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 



Fig. 97. These squares can also be used in other ways 
as will be explained later. 

Calipers are very simple instruments and yet they re- 
quire a certain amount of skill to manipulate them prop- 
erly. A simple pair of calipers consists of two arms riv- 
eted together at one end in such a way that they mil 
move upon the rivet as an axis. Hence they can be used 
to measure round pieces of work and other odd shapes 



r\ 



u 



Fig. 96 — A non-adjustable square 

where it would not be practical to employ an ordinary 
scale. The use of a simple pair of calipers is shoAATi in 
Fig. 98. The jaws of the calipers are opened until they 
will just slide over the metal. The measurement of the 




Fig' 97 — Measuring and squaring at the same time 

stock is then found by applying the calipers to a rule 
as shown in Fig. 99. If a piece of work is to be turned 
dowTi in the lathe to a diameter of 2 in, the calipers are 
first set with the scale. They are then applied to the 



Measuring Instruments 



89 



work at regular intervals until sufficient metal has been 
turned away to make a diameter of two inches. The use 
of calipers may appear very simple but it will be found 




Fig. 98 — The use of calipers in determining the diameter of a rod 

upon actual use that it is not an easy matter to make an 
accurate measurement with calipers unless they are 




Fig. 99 — Setting calipers with a scale 



90 Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 

handled mth caution. It may be possible to produce a 
shaft approximately 2 in. in diameter bnt making it ex- 
actly 2 in. is quite another matter. It is true that ex- 
tremely accurate measurements can be made with 
calipers but there are many mechanics who are so accus- 
tomed to their use and who have developed such sensitive 
fingers that they can make measurements within the 
1/lOOOth part of an inch. When a mechanic applies cali- 
pers to his work he should pull them back and forth 
several times to determine whether or not there is just 
the proper fit. If they do not pull over the work freely 
they should never be forced as this will cause the jaws 




Fig. loo— A pair of calipers that are adjusted with a nut and screw 

to open slightly and an inaccurate measurement ^^ill re- 
sult. In adjusting the calipers shown in Fig. 98 it is 
customary to tap one jaw on the bench until it closes to 
the proper distance. This instrument is known as an 
outside caliper omng to the fact that it is employed in 
making outside measurements. 

The caliper shown in Fig. 98 is a somewhat antiquated 
style and it is largely replaced to-day by the more im- 
proved type sho^\^l in Fig. 100. This is called a spring 



Measuring Instruments 



91 



caliper and it can be very accurately adjusted by means 
of a thumb nut. Once adjusted there is no danger of it 
losing its adjustment through careless handling unless 
the nut is turned. 
Inside calipers are shown in Fig. 101 and their use in 




Fig. loi — A pair of inside calipers with fine adjustment 

making an internal measurement is shown in Fig. 102. 
Inside calipers are adjusted by means of a square as 




Fig. 102 — How inside calipers are used 



92 



Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 



shown in Fig. 103. The calipers should never be forced 
inside a cylinder or other piece of work, as this will cause 
them to spring. In using calipers they should be applied 
to the work very lightly. 
What is known as a shoulder caliper is shown in Fig. 




Fig. 103 — How inside calipers are adjusted with a small square 



104. Such calipers, however, will not be absolutely neces- 
sary as a scale can be conveniently used in their stead. 




Fig. 104 — This shows the use of shoulder calipers 

A special use of outside calipers in measuring the wall 
of a tube with a shoulder is shown in Fig. 105. After 
the calipers are removed, the distance between the points 



Mecosuring Instruments 



93 



is measured and the difference between this and the dis- 
tance from the ontside wall of the cylinder to the calipers * 
point is the thickness of the wall. 

The micrometer, as its name implies, is an instrument 
which is capable of making measurements up to 1/lOOOOth 
of an inch. Referring to Fig. 106, which is a drawing of 
a micrometer, it will be noticed that there are two scales, 




Fig. 105 — How the wall of a cylinder with a shoulder can be measured 



one upon the movable tliimble which either advances or 
recedes, according to the direction it is turned, and the 
other at right angles to this upon the arm that projects 
from the jaws. The screw which causes the jaws of the 




Fig. 106 — A micrometer with ratchet attachment 



micrometer to move either backward or forward has a 
pitch of 40, meaning that one revolution of the thimble 
^\i\\ cause the movable jaws to either advance or recede 
l/40th of an inch, depending upon the direction it is 



94 



Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 



rotated in. The horizontal scale is divided into 40 parts 
so that every revolution of the thimble will cause the 
spindle to move a distance of one of the divisions upon 
the scale. As l/40th of an inch is equivalent to .025 of 
an inch, every one of the divisions on the horizontal 
scale is equivalent to this, and measurements are made 
in the decimal part of an inch rather than in common 
fractions. It will be seen that by moving the thimble 
from 0, or the point at which the jaws are closed, to 5 
on the horizontal scale it will cause the spindle to open 
to .500 of an inch or i/o. Causing the spindle to open to 
6 will cause the jaws to be .600 or 3/5ths of an inch apart. 



12 3 4 5 6 7 



-20 



Sleeve 

10 

— Thimble 

Fig. 107 — A micrometer reading of .766 

This is, of course, assuming that the thimble makes 24 
complete revolutions (from the closed or zero position), 
as every revolution is equivalent to .025 and therefore 

24 X .025 Avill be .600. To make a complete revolution of 
the thimble it is necessary to bring it to the zero mark 
and revolve it until it comes back to this mark. Counting 
from ''0" back to "0" the thimble scale is divided into 

25 equal parts and if this thimble either advances or re-| 
cedes .025 of an inch for every revolution, it will only 
move l/25th of this or .001 of an inch for every one of 
the divisions marked on the edge of the thimble. Thus, 



Measuring Instrwments 



95 



it mil be seen that such an instrument can he used to 
measure as close as .001 of an inch with accuracy, and, 
if the user's eyesight is good .0001 of an inch can be 
approximately arrived at by determining just hoAv far 
the mark of the thimble is from the horizontal line on 
the other scale. There is a vernier attachment which 
makes this possible. This will be described later. The 
micrometer is very easy to read if the user will keep in 
mind the fact that a complete revolution causes it to 
move l/40th of an inch and that the thimble is graduated 
in 25ths which would make l/25th of a revolutioTi rep- 
resent l/25th of l/40th or 1/lOOOth of an inch. 
Most micrometers are provided with a scale on the 



Sleeve 



F 



-20 

Thimble 



Fig. io8 — A micrometer reading of .250 



side which gives the decimal fractions of all common 
fractions such as 14, 3/^, %, %, %, %, etc. The reading 
of a micrometer can be reduced to a common fraction by 
merely placing it over 1000 and reducing it as far as 
possible. If the micrometer is opened two divisions be- 
yond 7 on the horizontal scale with the thimble at the 
16th division as shown in Fig. 107, the reading will be 



96 



Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 



.766. The second point beyond 7 on the scale would rep- 
resent the 30th division and since each division is equal 
to .025 of an inch, 30 would be equivalent to 30 x .025 or 
.750. To this is added the .016 made l)y the thimble ad- 
vancing over the point of 16/25ths of a revolution, or, in 
other words, .016 of an inch. A micrometer reading i/4th 
of an inch or .250 is shown in Fig. 108. 

Ordinary micrometers are seldom used in shop prac- 
tice where duplicates of exactly the same dimensions are 
made. This is because of the fact that one man is verv 




Fig. log — The proper method of holding a micrometer 

apt to screw the micrometer more tightly than another 
and therefore inaccuracy in the parts will result. This 
has been overcome to a great extent M^th a ratchet at- 
tachment M^hich allows a definite adjustment of the same 
tension on all instruments. With a little practice in the 
use of the micrometer, a mechanic will be able to read 
one quickly and accurately. If the micrometer is not pro- 
vided with a ratchet adjustment the user must not screw 
the jaws too tightly on the work being measured. This 



Measuring Instruments 



97 



will not give an accnrate reading, and, furthermore, it is 
bad for the niicronieter. As they are such accurately 
made tools, it is necessary to take care of them in order 
to preserve their accuracy. After the micrometer is used 
it should be placed in its case where it \\i\\ not come in 
contact with other tools. The greatest care should be 
used to prevent moisture from getting on tlie surfaces 
of the jaws, as this will cause rust and Avhen the rust is 
removed it Avill seriously impair the accuracy of the de- 
vice. 

The proper method of holding a micrometer is shown 
in Fig. 109. It Avill he seen that the thimble and ratchet 




Fig. no — Vernier calipers 



is turned M^th the thumb and the index finger while the 
opposite end of the micrometer rests in the palm of the 
hand. The work being measured is held in the other 
hand. 

The vernier caliper is often used in place of the ordi- 
nary micrometer. With this instrument it is possible to 
make a wider range of measurements. The ordinary 
small micrometer seldom measures over 2 inches be- 
tween the jaws when they are opened to the maxinmm 
distance. A vernier caliper is shown in Fig. 110. It m^II 
be seen that the instrument consists of two jaws, one 
which is stationary and the other wliich is sliding on a 
scale. Measurements as small as l/1000t]i of an inch 



98 



Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 



can be made with this device and by adjusting the mov- 
able jaw on the scale it is possible to make measurements 
up to 5 in. Avith absolute accuracy. 

Fig. Ill shows how the vernier works. The scale of the 
tool is graduated into 40ths of an inch. The scale on 
the vernier plate is divided into 25 parts, and these 25 
divisions occupy the same space as 24 of the divisions 
on the stationary scale. The difference between one of 
the 25th spaces and one of the 24th spaces is l/25th of 
l/40th, or, expressed decimally, .001 of an inch. In order 
to read the instrument, note the number of inches, lOths 
and 40ths, the mark on the vernier is from the mark 



lllii 



4 5 6 7 8 9 1 



5 10 15 ?0 25 

O 



5 6 

lllllll 



Fig. Ill — How the vernier functions 

on the scale and then note the number of divisions on the 
vernier from to a line which exactly coincides with a 
line on the scale. Referring back to Fig. 110 it will be 
noticed that a very fine adjustment can be made by the 
little thumb screw which is held in a separate part of 
the vernier. Both this part and the vernier itself can be 
held in place by a set screw at the top when the proper 
adjustment has been made. The vernier can be used as 
a heiglith gauge by the attachment shown in Fig. 112, 
This attachment can also be used in measuring the height 
of recesses and shoulde^^s. 



Measuring Instruments 



99 



What is known as a micrometer depth gauge is shown 
in Fig. 113. With this instrument it is possible to accu- 
rately determine the depth of a hole by inserting the 
spindle with the shoulder or cross piece resting upon the 
work. When in this position the thimble is turned until 
the spindle reaches the bottom of the hole. 




Fig. 112 — A vernier caliper in use as a height gauge 

A surface gauge is a very important tool which is used 
in marking out work to be machined. Such a gauge is il- 
lustrated in Fig. 114. It will be noticed that it consists 




Fig. 113 — A micrometer depth gauge 



of a base, standard and a scriber or sharp-pointed steel 
rod straight at one end, bent at the other and so fixed 
that it can be moved up and down the standard. It will 
also be noticed that the l)ottom of the standard is pro- 
vided with a thumb screw and by means of this thumb 



100 Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 

screw it is possible to cause the standard to be set at 
different angles. The surface gauge must be used with 
what is kno\\ni as a surface plate. This is a hand- scraped 
steel plate which is made ^^At\\ a very smooth surface 




Fig. 114 — A surface gauge 

mechanically true in every respect. Without such a plate 
a surface gauge is of little value as wide variations in 
measurement will be caused by using it on inaccurate 




Fig. 115 — A surface plate for use with the surface gauge 

surfaces. The surface gauge is adjusted as depicted in 
Fig. 116, and its use in marking the height of the port- 
holes in a model compressor cylinder is shown in Fig. 



Measuring Instruments 



101 



117. The scriber is made of liardeiied steel and there- 
fore it will scratch iron, steel, brass and all the softer 
metals. If the portholes on the model cylinder shown in 
Fig. 117 were to be 1% in. from the base, the surface 
gage would be adjusted to this height by means of the 
screw. The instrument would then be grasped in one 
hand and the cylinder held in the other. By sliding the 
gauge across the surface plate with the pointer in contact 




Fig. ii6 — Adjusting the surface gauge with a small square and scale 

with the cylinder a distinct scratch will be made in the 
proper place on the cylinder. 

Surface plates are very expensive and it is necessary 
to take very good care of their surfaces. Moisture will 
cause a surface plate to deteriorate rapidly, and for this 
reason it should l)e smeared with machine oil or vaseline 
after it is used. This can easily be removed Avith a cloth 
soaked in gasoline. The manufacturers of these surface 
plates also provide a cover which is placed over them 
when not in use. This is to prevent their surfaces from 
becoming marred b}^ accident. 



102 



Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 




Fig. 117 — Scratching a line with the scriber of the surface gauge 

Not every amateur mechanic can afford surface plates 
or expensive surface gauges. A very good substitute for 
a surface gauge is shown in Figs. 118 and 119. This is a 
home-made affair, and, although not as accurate as a 




Fig. 118 — A simple, home-made surface gauge 



Measuring Instruments 



103 



commercial instrument, it mil suffice for ordinary work. 
In place of an expensive surface plate this little instru- 
r7\ 




t 




^ 



t? 




^ 



Fig. 119 — Drawing of the simple surface gauge shown in Fig. 118 

ment can be employed with an ordinary piece of plate 



glass. 



,'LockScrew 



^ 



Fig. 120 — A simple, home-made depth gauge 

Like the surface gauge, a good substitute for an expen- 
sive depth gauge can easily be made. Such a little instru- 
ment is shown in Fig. 120. 




imi i | i|i |i|i|i | i ii | i ii| i|ii i |i |m|i | i ' p\ yiif|i|iiiii|i|i|iii|iii|i|i|i|i|iii 
ki,i,iiiiiii!liiiLi,i i'ilii ,i,iii,i,iihl,i,iiiiiii,iii,Li IinI.iii.ijUimJt:^ ii'liiiiiiiliiiiili 



Fig. 121 — A combination scale, square and protractor 



104 



Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 



The instrument shown in Fig. 121 is knoMTi as a pro- 
tractor and it is used largely in marking out work for 
machining. It vdW be seen tliat the scale can be adjusted 
to any angle between 1 and 180 degrees. If it was de- 
sired to make a line at a certain angle on a piece of square 




Fig. 122 — Showing one use of the protractor 
work, the protractor would be held on the work as shown 
in Fig. ,122. 

A very useful addition to an ordinary scale is shown in 




Fig, 123 — A key-way scale and its use 

Fig. 123. The two small blocks attached to the scale are 
known as key rule blocks and by their aid it is possible to 
lay out a straight line upon a circular piece of work. If 
the rule is used without this it is not known whether -the 
line is straight or not. 



CHAPTER IV 

Drilling and Reaming 

Laying out and marking work — Twist drills — Operation of twist drills 
— How to properly sharpen twist drills — Twist drill sizes — How 
to sharpen very small twist drills — Drill presses for the small 
home shop — Operation of drill press — Different types of drill 
presses — Power drill presses — Hand drill presses — The process 
of drilling — Finding the center for a large drill — Drilling different 
metals — How to sharpen the drill for brass — How to sharpen 
drill for iron and steel — Speed of twist drill for the different 
metals and different sized drills — Vee blocks — Use of Vee blocks 
in drilling holes in circular pieces — Fly cutter — Use of fly cutter 
— How to make a fly cutter — Bottoming drill — Use of bottoming 
drill — Countersink — Producing square holes — Use of drift — Con- 
struction of drift — Reamers — Use of reamers — Sharpening ream- 
ers — Burring reamers. 

Drilling is one of the most essential and important 
operations carried on in the shop. Knowing how to drill 
accurately and properly is necessary in the construction 
of practically everything the amateur mechanic makes. 

Unless holes are to be drilled promiscuously, measur- 
ing and marking is the first operation necessary in pro- 
ducing holes in a piece of work. Two of the most im- 
portant tools used in marking out work for drilling, aside 
from those described previously in Chapter 3, are a 
pair of dividers and a scriber. These are shown in 
Fig. 124. 

The brass plate depicted in Fig. 125 is to be drilled 
as shoA\Ti. It will first be necessary to find the center of 
the plate. A prick-punch mark is placed at each end of 
the plate in the center and the line A (Fig. 126) is then 
drawn. The two lines BB are then drawn through this 

105 



106 



Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 



center line. Where these lines cross a prick-punch mark 
is made. The dividers are then opened 3/32nds of an 




Fig. 124 — A pair of dividers and scriber used in marking out work 

inch, and witli one leg placed on the edge of the plate and 
the other leg in contact with the top surface, the line C 




Fig. i2^ — Method of marking out for holes to be drilled 

is drawn all the way around. Distances for the small 
holes around the edge are then marked off and an inden- 
tation is made at the proper point with the prick-punch. 
The dividers are then used in drawing the small circles 
shown at the point where the prick-punch mark is made. 



Drilling and Reaming 



107 



The outer circle represents the exact dimension of the 
hole to be drilled, Avhile the inner circle is used in guid- 




Fig. 126 — How marking is done for the drilling of large holes 
with a twist drill 

ing the drill as will be explained later. The same pro- 
cedure is followed mth the large holes. 

,'Back Ed^e 



,'Web 



Cutfinq' ! 




Edge 


J, ..Cuffing 


Back — r^^X: ^'^^^ 


Edge \r\ 


/ /f:'-Kf/ufe 




J/\ 


'Edge 




V 


-F/ufe 



Fig. 127 — The twist drill and the names of its various parts 

Before going farther with the drilling operation it will 
be well to thoroughly understand modern twist drills and 
their operation. A tw^ist drill and the names of its va- 
rious parts is sho\ATi in Fig. 127. It will be seen that the 
cutting or forward edge is slightly higher than the back 
edge. The difference in this height is called the clearance 



108 Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 

and it must be the same on both sides of the drill. Other- 
wise the drill will not cut accurately but will function as 
shown in Fig. 128. The cutting edge of a drill is gen- 




Fig. 128 — How a twist drill produces a larger hole than its diameter 
when it is improperly ground 

erally 60 degrees for ordinary work and when grinding 
the drill the little instrument illustrated in Fig. 129 is 
used to guide the work. Of course it mil be understood 
that such a gauge could not be used on a very small drill. 




Fig. 129— The use of a protractor in grinding a large drill 

In using the gauge it should be applied to both sides so 
that they will both be ground at the proper angle. The 
flute of the drill is a valley cut spirally the whole length 



Drilling and Reaming 109 

of tlie drill. The web is that portion in the center which 
separates the flutes. 

Before the mechanic sharpens his first drill he should 
make a careful study of the cutting edges of new drills. 
Manufacturers place drills upon the market perfectly 
ground, and for tliis reason no mistake can be made in 
trying to reproduce tlieir grinding. Drills sliould be 
sharpened on grinding wheels and when doing this they 
should be held in both hands as shown in Fig. 130. It 
will be noticed that the drill is really held in one hand 
and guided with the other. Its edge should be applied 




Fig. 130— The proper method of holding a drill during grinding 

very lightly to the wheel. When it is touched to the 
surface of the wheel it should be revolved for about 1/2 
revolution with a sweeping motion upward. Care should 
also be taken to hold the drill at the proper angle on the 
wheel. Of course, this can only be approximate, but 
nevertheless, a trained eye will reduce the inaccuracy to 



110 



Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 



a minimimi. If a large drill is being ground on a wheel 
with a small face (width )it can be ground on the side 
of the wheel. 

In sharpening a drill it will be necessary to keep it cool, 
otherwise its temper will be effected and the cutting edge 
will become soft. To prevent this, the point of the drill 
should be dipped repeatedly in a convenient receptacle 
of cold water. For very small drills, a wheel with a very 
fine grit can be used but for larger drills a wheel with 
a coarser grit should be used. Various types of grinding 
wheels and their use will be outlined in another chapter. 

The smaller drills are designated by numbers and they 




Fig. 131 — A complete set of the number drills in a rack 

run from No. 1 to 80. They are called the wire gauge 
drills, and the smallest, which is No. 80, measures about 
.0135 in. in diameter. The No. 1 mre gauge drill meas- 
ures 15/64ths of an inch in diameter. The wire gauge 
drills will suffice for all ordinary purposes and a com- 
plete set should be in every workshop. Such a set is 
shown in Fig. 131. They are held in a triangular rack 



Drilling and Reaming 



111 



and tlie corresponding number for each drill is beside 
the hole in which the drill is placed. 

It is practically impossible to sharpen the smaller 
drills (from No. 50 to 80) on a grinding wheel as the 




Fig. 132 — A power-driven drill press for a small shop 

wheel cuts too rapidly. In sharpening such drills it will 
be found convenient and practical to employ a small mag- 
nifying glass and an ordinary little shop abrasive stone. 
With this information concerning drills, the mechanic 



112 



Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 



will be able to proceed with the drilling of the plate men- 
tioned in previous paragraphs. First, a No. 20 drill is 
selected and placed in the chuck of the drill press. A 
typical small shop drill press is shown in Fig. 132 with- 
out a chuck. The chuck is shown independently at Fig. 
133. The chuck is merely a device provided with three 




FJg- 133 — A small drill chuck 

jaws to tighten about the shank or top of the drill and 
hold it. The drill press consists principally of a spindle 
which holds the chuck at its end, and a table upon which 




Fig. 134 — A small hand-driven drill press 

the work to be drilled rests. The spindle in the photo- 
graph (Fig. 132) is marked A, and the table or drilling 



Drilling and Reaming 



113 



plate is marked B. The table is adjustable and is held 
in position by means of the set screw C. The spindle A 
is provided with a key way so that the pulley D is able to, 
revolve, carrying the spindle with it and yet the spindle 
is free to move vertically by actuating the handle E. The 
driving belt F passes around a large pulley at the back 




Fig- 135— A hand drill in use 

over the two small pulleys above this and around the 
pulley D at the front of the machine. The flat-faced pul- 
ley G is the driving pulley and a belt from this to an 
electric motor or other source of motive power is con- 



114 Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 

neeted. By means of the handle I the belt can be shifted 
from pulley G to pulley H to stop the machine, as the 
pulley H is what is known as an idle pulley. 

Another small drill press of a simple type is shown in 
Fig. 134. The principal involved is the same, but this 
machine is hand driven. 

What is termed a hand drill is shown in Fig. 135. Such 
a drill will be necessary in many cases where it is im- 
possible to use a power or vertical drill owing to inacces- 
sibility. In using the hand drill one hand is placed on 
the handle at the top and the device is driven with the 
other hand, all the necessary pressure being applied with 
the hand Avhich grasps the top handle. The one great 
objection to the use of such a drill is the fact that it is 
almost impossible to hold it in either a perfectly vertical 
or horizontal position. When very thin sheet metal is 
being drilled it is not objectionable if a hand drill is 
used as it does not matter if the hole drilled is at a slight 
angle. The use of hand drills is to be recommended 
for the smaller drills OA\dng to the fact that they are 
very sensitive and a great amount of breakage is pre- 
vented. 

Having placed the No. 20 drill in the chuck of the drill 
press, the plate is placed upon the table and the point of 
the drill is brought down to the prick-punch mark which 
was made in the center of one of the larger circles. A 
very light pressure is applied so that the drill will 
scarcely cut away the prick mark. The drill is then lifted 
off the surface of the work and the workman is able to 
determine whether or not he has struck the center. If 
the drill has slipped off the prick-punch mark and gone 
to one side it will be possible to coax it back to the center. 
If the drill had been allowed to go much deeper, how- 



Drilling and Reaming 115 

ever, this would have become very difficult if not impos- 
sible. Having determined that the drill is proceeding 
correctly, the point is carried a little farther into the 
metal. It is then lifted again and if it is still drilling 
correctly it is returned to the metal and just enough of 
the metal is drilled away so that the point of the drill will 
be beneath the surface. The drill is then withdrawn and 
taken from the chuck after which it is replaced A\'ith a 
%-in. drill. The small-sized drill was used so that the 
larger drill could be centered properly. The larger a 
drill is the wider its web will be and the more difficult it 
becomes to center such a drill. In choosing a small cen- 
tering drill for a larger drill one should be selected that 
mil have a diameter slightly larger than the web of the 
large drill. 

After the larger drill is in place in the chuck it is 
brought down so that the web or point will rest in the 
hole or dej^ression left by the small drill. A slight pres- 
sure is applied and the drill is then lifted to determine 
whether or not it has left its center. In case it has not it 
is returned to the metal and the drilling is carried 
further. Again the drill is lifted and the worker should 
notice how close to the center it has been, using the circle 
as a guide. If the drill is proceeding properly it is re- 
turned to its place and the hole continued until the drill 
protrudes at the opposite side. The same procedure is 
followed out mth the large-sized hole. 

The smaller holes are now ready to be drilled and the 
proper size drill is placed in the chuck. If the outside 
holes are to be drilled ^^^th a No. 20 drill the centering 
can be done mth a No. 35 drill. This drill is used in the 
same manner as the centering drill for the large hole, 
and after the center has been properly made with it the 



116 Shop Pr art Ice for Home Mechanics 

No. 20 drill is inserted in the chuck, and, after one or 
two trials, the drill is carried through the metal. 

When a drill is to be used in drilling brass or cast iron, 
it should not be sharpened in the usual manner. If such 
a drill is used to drill brass or cast iron it will have a 
tendency to dig or bite into the work. This is overcome 
by grinding thq lip off the drill as illustrated at Fig. 136. 
Such a drill will cut evenly and smoothly with no trouble. 
It will not be necessary to cut very much of the lip away. 

The speed of a drill is determined by the metal being 
drilled and the diameter of tlie drill. If the diameter of 





'L/p Ground Off '' 
Fig. 136 — How a drill is ground for the drilling of brass and cast iron 

the drill is very large the speed should be reduced pro- 
portionately, but this does not hold true for small drill 
presses owing to the fact that they A\dll not accommodate 
a drill over % in. in diameter and this is not considered 
very large. As a general rule the smaller drills are run 
at high speed and the larger ones at low speed. An easy 
method of obtaining the approximate speed of a drill is 
that of dividing 80, 110 and 180 by the diameter of the 
drill which will give the number of revolutions per min- 
ute for steel, cast iron and brass respectively. In drill- 
ing wrought iron or steel, the drill should be flooded mtli 
a cutting compound or lubricant. Ordinary machine oil 
can be used for this purpose or a less expensive substi- 
tute can be found in good soapy water. Brass, copper 
and cast iron should always be drilled dry. 

It is advisable many times to employ what is kno^m 



Drilling and Reaming 



117 



as a lead hole when drilling a hole with a large drill. 
This facilitates cutting, for the large drill and also makes 
a more accurate job. Such a lead hole is shown in Fig. 




Leaol Hofe---' 
Fig. 137 — A lead hole made by a smaller drill will guide a larger drill 

137. In case of a hole being drilled on a slightly in- 
clined surface the lead hole should always be used as the 
web of the large drill is so thick that it is difficult to start 




Fig. 138 — How a drill is brought back to center after it has slipped off 

it cutting accurately on anything but a surface which is at 
exact right angles to the drill. 

Oftentimes in starting a large drill it has a tendency 
to slip to one side and it is possible to bring it back to 
the proper position providing it has not drilled too deep. 
If the drill has just gone to a point where its full diam- 



118 



Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 



eter is cutting, the resulting hole is called a dimple and 
beyond this point it is very difficult to bring a drill back 
to center. The method of drawing a drill is shown in 
Fig. 138. A small, gouge-pointed chisel is used in dig- 




1 



J 



Fig. 139 — A pair of V-blocks 

ging out a little valley extending from the center which 
the drill has made to the side opposite from that toward 
wliich the drill is slipping. 




Fig. 140 — How a piece of round stock rests in V-blocks 

In drilling a transverse hole through a round piece of 
stock, much difficulty will be met in causing the drill to 
pass through the exact center. The larger the drill is and 
the smaller the diameter of the stock being drilled, the 
more difficult this ^^^ll become. It is practically impos- 



Drilling and Reaming 



119 



sible to drill sncli a liole accurately without the use of 
what are known as V-blocks, A set of these blocks is 
shoAATi in Fig. 139. These are very accurately cut and 




Ky 



Fig. 141 — Methods of finding the center of a rod 

sold by the manufacturers of small drills. If it is desired 
to produce a transverse hole in a piece of round stock, the 
stock rests in the V-blocks as shown in Fig. 140. Held in 
this position, the rod or stock is not easily rotated and if 




Fig. 142 — The text describes the method of drilling a hole in this 

manner 

care is taken in starting the drill, a perfectly accurate 
result can be obtained. To make sure that the point of 
the drill is at the center of the stock, the method showli 



120 



Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 




Pig, 1^3 How a drill would break if the hole shown in Fig. 142 was 

drilled in the usual manner 




Fig. 144 — How the hole is plugged for drilling 

in Fig. 141 is used for marking. After the center line has 
been scratched, the small keyway rule which was pre- 
viously described is placed upon the shaft and a line 
drawn its entire length or to a point where the hole is 
to be put through. 

A good lesson in drilling can be learned by assuming 
that a hole is desired through a piece of metal as shown 
in Fig. 142. It would be impractical to start drilling this 
hole in the ordinary manner, as a broken drill would be 
sure to result, as shown in Fig. 143. The only practical 
method of overcoming this difficulty is to plug the hole 
up temporarily and drill through both the plug and the 
metal, as sho^^^l in Fig. 144. For best results, the plug 



Drilling and Reaming 



121 



should be made of the same metal as the stock being 
drilled. 

All holes in soft materials such as fibre, wood and sheet 
metal can be cut to practically any diameter up to 5 in. 
by the use of the simple drill shown in Fig. 145. This is 



On 



SefScretv-^ I I 



.-Spindle 
,Sef Screw 



Cutfer-- 



Fig. 145 — A fly-cutter and its use 

known as a fly-cutter and it wall be seen that it consists 
of a main spindle through the center of wliich an arm 
passes. This arm is adjustable and held in any one posi- 
tion by means of a set-screw. At the end of this arm is 
a small cutter which is made of tool steel. This is also 





Fig. 146 — The bottom of a hole drilled by an ordinary drill and the 
bottom of a hole finished with a bottoming drill 

adjusted vertically by means of a set-screw. To drill a 
hole with this instrument it is first necessary to provide 
a center upon which the spindle can revolve. To do this, 
a hole is drilled for a short distance with a drill slightly 
larger than the diameter of the spindle. The point of the 
spindle is then inserted in this hole wAiYi a little lubri- 
cating oil to prevent undue friction and wear. The de- 
vice is then driven at a speed of about 500 R.P.M., and 



122 



Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 



only a sliglit pressure should be used. In cutting a hole 
in thin sheet metal with this device, the metal should first 
be screwed to a block of wood. 

An ordinary drill leaves a hole "with a bottom similar 
to that shown in Fig. 146 at A. If it is desired to pro- 




Fig. 147 — A bottoming drill 

duce a perfectly flat bottom, as sho^vn in B (Fig. 146), 
what is known as a bottoming drill is employed. Such a 
drill is illustrated at Fig. 147. This drill can also be 
used as a counter-bore, as shown in Fig. 148. It is often 
necessary to use such a drill for this purpose in order 
to form a proper seating for a fillister head screw, as 
sho^\m in Fig. 149. 

In case it is desired to form a seating for a flat-headed 




Fig. 148 — The use of a bottoming drill 



screw, a counter-sink must be used. Counter-sinks are 
made in various angles and several are shown in Fig. 
150. A flat-headed machine screw properly seated by 
means of a counter-sink is shown at Fig. 151. After con- 
tinued use, the edges of the counter-sink ])ecome dull, 
but it is an easy matter to restore their original cutting 
efficiency by rubbing a small abrasive stone over their 
cutting edge. Counter-sinks should be run at a speed in 



Drilling and Reaming 



123 



tlie neighborhood of 300 R.P.M. Avhen being used and 
too great a pressure should not be exercised as the strain 
on the cutting edges ^\dll be increased to a point where 
breakage is liable to take place. 

It is possible to produce a square hole by the method 



r'^r^. 




Fig. 149 — How a filister head screw sets in a hole finished with a 
bottoming drill 

shown in Fig. 152. The tool used is termed a drift and 
it is cut in the end of a round piece of stock as shown. 
It should have slightly tapering sides, starting from the 
end and tapering back to the shoulder. Such a drift can 
be made from tool steel properly hardened and tem- 



-^]=3 



^Ll 



Fig. 150 — Three different counter-sinks 

pered. To use a drift, it is first necessary to drill a hole 
in the stock using a drill with a diameter equal to the 
width of the drift. If a very large hole is being drifted 
out it is advisable to emplo}^ a small drift first, following 
it by a larger one. It will be understood that the larger 
a hole is the more metal it will be necessary for the drift 
to remove. 

At this point it aa^II be well to understand the reamer 
and its use. It is utterly impossible to produce a hole 



124 



Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 



exactly to size by using a drill. To produce a hole with 
an exact diameter a reamer is employed. The reamer is 
used on drill presses and lathes and a special type is 
generally used for reaming by hand. These are known 
as hand reamers and one is shown in Fig. 153. In using 
the reamer, a hole approximately the diameter of the 




Fig. 151 — How a flat head screw sets in a hole finished with a 

counter-sink 



reamer is first drilled. This hole should be from 1/32 
to 1/64 in. smaller than the reamer. For instance, if a 
hole exactly 31/32 of an inch is desired, a drill in the 
neighborhood of 15/16 inch in diameter should lie used 
to drill the hole. If a hand reamer is used it is inserted 



f^ I 




Or/ff 



Fig. 152 — A drift and its use in making a square hole 

in a small wrench such as shown at Fig. 154. The end 
of the reamer is then inserted in the hole and with a 
slow, twisting motion the reamer is gradually forced 
through. If steel stock is being reamed out, it is advis- 
able to use a little lubricating oil on the reamer, as this 



Drilling and Reaming 



125 



will facilitate cutting. After the reamer is removed from 
the hole, it mil be found that a perfectly smooth result 
is produced exactly to size. 




^ 



Fig. 153 — An ordinary reamer 

When a reamer is used in a drill press, the press should 
be reduced to a minimum speed, otherwise the reamer is 
apt to chatter and it is also liable to catch in the work. 




Fig. 154 — A small tap and tool wrench that finds many uses 

High speed also imposes extra duty upon the cutting 
edges and breakage becomes very possible. 

The reamer just described is the type known as a par- 



F>£- 155 — A small taper reamer for use in a tap wrench 

allel reamer, owing to the fact that the edges are parallel 
to one another. What is known as a taper reamer is 
showTi in Fig. 155. A taper reamer is used to produce 



Fig. 156 — A large taper reamer 

a hole with diminishing diameter and the drill used to 
start the reamer should not have a diameter greater than 
the smallest diameter of the reamer which will be at its 
end. 



126 



SJiop Practice for Home Mechanics 



A spiral-fluted taper reamer is shown at Fig. 156. 
Such reamers are rarely used in small shops and there- 
fore the amateur mechanic will seldom find occasion 
to employ such a tool. 

A burring reamer is a very convenient little tool to 




Fig- 157 — The use of a hand stone in sharpening a reamer 

have on hand. It is used to remove the hurrs or rough 
edges left by a drill. To use it, its end is merely inserted 
in the hole and the reamer turned several times. This 
operation will effectively remove the burrs, leaving a 
nice smooth edge. 

The use of reamers in connection with lathe work will 
be described in the chapter devoted to lathes. 



CHAPTER V 
Introduction to Lathe Work 

Operation of the lathe — Simple lathes — Names of lathe parts for 
simple lathe — Lathe speed — Lathe tools — How to use lathe tools 
— How to sharpen lathe tools — Lathe dog — Turning simple work 
— Mounting work in lathe — Using simple lathe attachments — Use 
of face plate — Mounting work on face plate — Turning brass — 
How to sharpen tool for brass — Turning steel — Lathe chucks — 
Drilling on lathe — Slide rest and its use in turning — How to 
sharpen the various lathe tools — Lathe hand tools — Lathe power 
tools — General information on the operation, construction and 
use of simple lathes. 

The lathe is by far the most important and useful 
tool in the shop and a great amount of experience is 
necessary to handle it properly. In writing this Chapter 
on the introduction to lathe work, the author is assum- 
ing that his reader knows little or nothing about the lathe 
and its modus operandi. 

A lathe can be described as a machine in which pieces 
of metal, wood and other substances, can be revolved. 
A sharp-pointed tool of hardened steel is brought against 
the revolving work and made to cut it. It must, of 
course, be understood that the cutting tool must of neces- 
sity be much harder than the substance being cut. 

A very simple bench lathe is shoA\^i in Fig. 158. The 
names of the various parts of this lathe are shoAvn on 
the drawing. The head stock holds the revolving spindle 
and this is driven with a belt by means of the pulleys 
sho\\m. These pulleys are arranged in steps so that 
various speeds can be obtained. Fig. 159 shows a metal 

127 



128 



Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 



rod mounted in the lathe ready for turning. Before con- 
sidering the matter of turning the metal rod to a speci- 
fied diameter or shape, the method followed in mounting 
the rod in the lathe will be treated. 



■Driver or face Plate 
/Live Center 



Tail Stock 



/Feed Handle 




Fig. 158 — A bench lathe and the names of its various parts 

It will be seen that the two sharp-pointed centers of 
the lathe protrude into the ends of the rod. The centers 
of the lathe are ground at an angle of 60 degrees and 




159 — A lathe dog and its use 



therefore the holes in the ends of the rod made to accom- 
modate the centers must also taper at 60 degrees as 
shown in Fig. 160. It must be understood that before 
the holes are produced the exact center of the rod must 
be found. There are several methods of finding tliis 
exact center. Probably tlie easiest method is when what 



Introduction to Lathe Work 



129 



is knowTi as a centering drill is used to drill the hole. 
Such a drill is shown in Fig, 163. If an ordinary drill 
was used, the centers would come into place as shown in 
Fig. 164. As a result the sharp edges of the work would 
gradually wear back as the work was revolved and w^ould 




Fig. i6o — An improperly ground center 

become inaccurate. The points of the centers of the lathe 
should never come in contact mth the work they are hold- 
ing and the centers should always be kept perfectly sharp 
and ground true. 




Fig. i6i — A self-centering punch 

The work is driven on the lathe by what is known as a 
lathe dog. A simple lathe dog is shown at Fig. 165. This 
type of lathe dog is suitable for small bench lathes, but 
a different type is necessary for use on larger lathes as 
will be explained later. The protruding arm of the lathe 
dog rests in a slot cut in the face plate. A small set- 
screw on the lathe dog grips the work firmly. 

It will be assumed that part of the metal rod in the 



130 



Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 



lathe is to he turned dowoi as sho^m in Fig. 166. To 
guide the workman in lorodncing the proper profile on 





n 



Fig. 162 — How a center can be approximately found with a pair 

of dividers 



the work, it will be necessary to cut what is known as a 
template. The template for use in connection with the 
job under consideration is sho^^^l in Fig. 167. As the 





Fig, 163 — A lathe centering drill and counter-sink 

work nears completion, the template should be brought 
in contact with the rod frequently so as to determine 




Fig, 164 — How the center would rest in a hole produced with an 

ordinary drill 



Introduction to Lathe Work 



131 



whether or not the rod is approaching the proper shape. 
The turning should be continued until the template fits 
exactly over the rod. 

The actual use of the turning tools must now be con- 




Fig. 165 — A simple lathe dog for use on a bench lathe 

sidered. A set of hand turning tools is sho^\Ti in Fig. 168. 
Many of these tools can be ground to shape from old 
square files and it will be seen that tools mth many dif- 



t 



t 



Fig. 166 — A piece which can be turned by the use of a template 

ferent-shaped cutting points are necessary to carry on 
work. This is especially tnie if odd shapes are being 
turned. The cutting tool is placed in the position de- 



^7^ 



^^^ 



Fig. 167 — ^The template used in producing the piece shown in Fig. 166 

picted in Fig. 169 for cutting. The tee rest is brought 
as close to the work as possible (usually about 14 i^-) 
and the remainder of the tool is held firmly in the hands 
of the worker. The center rest should be so adjusted that 
the cutting edge of the tool will come in contact with the 
work at its center. If the tool is too far above or below 



132 



Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 



the center of the work, it will not cut efficiently. The be- 
ginner should take care not to use too much pressure and 
it mil be found after some cutting is done that a remark- 
able control can be obtained over the tool. While this 
control of the tool can be exercised freely in producing 
various shapes it Avill be found that it is extremely diffi- 




Hook or Heel Tool 




Parting Tool 



Fig. 1 68 — A set of hand turning tools for use with metal 




cult to produce a rod of exact diameter for any great 
length. A mechanic who is able to do this must have 
many years of experience in hand turning and such a job 
would be quite hopeless for the average amateur 
mechanic. 

The parting or cutting-oif tool must be manipulated in 



Intro diicfion to Lathe Work 



133 



a certain Avay to produce good results. Considerable 
pressure must be used with this tool and its cutting edge 
should be fed into the stock A\ith a slightly rocking mo- 
tion. This rocking motion is produced mtli the hand on 
the end of the tool. 







'"Tee Pesf 



Fig. 169 — The direction of the work in a lathe in relation to the point 
of the cutting tool 

Another method of driving work on the lathe is showTi 
in Fig. 170. Two small bolts pass through the slots of 
the face plate and clamp the stock in position. In doing 
this it will be necessary that the stock be mounted as close 



,^-S/OT^ 




-Bolt Head 



'-Slot 



Fig. 170 — How a circular piece is held to a small lathe face plate 

to the center as possible, otherwise the turning will be 
eccentric. 

Tools for use on brass must be ground differently from 



134 



Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 



those used in turning steel. Properly ground tools for 
use on these metals are shown in Fig. 171. The tool used 
for turning steel has what is called a positive rake; i.e., 
its edge inclines from the w^ork. If such a tool with a 
l^ositive rake was used in cutting brass, the nose or point 
would have a tendency to dig in, and if a hand tool was 
used it would probably either break the point or snatcli 
the tool from the mechanic's hand. At any rate the work 
would be ruined. A tool for cutting brass must have 
what is knoAATi as a negative rake ; the point of the tool 
inclines toivard the work. A tool so ground will cut 



El 



Positive Ra/<e (Sfeei) 



CLJ 



Negative Rake (Brass) 
Fig. 171 — Illustrating the meaning of positive and negative rake 

smoothly with no tendency to dig into the surface of the 
metal. A tool with a negative rake must also be used 
when turning iron as this metal possesses the same pe- 
culiar properties its brass. The tool ^^dth the negative 
rake scrapes the metal away in small pieces while the 
action of a tool with a positive rake is entirely different 
— it cuts the metal away in the form of long curls. 

When cutting steel stock with hand tools, a lubricant 
of some sort should be used. The lubricant can be con- 
tained in a small can so arranged over the work that 
the lubricant wall drop on the edge of the cutting tool or 
on the Avork. Oil is rather expensive for this purpose 
and a good substitute can be found in thick, soapy water. 
Brass will not need to be lubricated. 



Introduction to Lathe Work 



135 



The usefulness of the small lathe described in this 
Chapter can be greatly extended by the addition of a 
chuck such as that illustrated in Fig. 172 at B. The 
chuck is screwed on the spindle of the lathe in place of 




Fig. 172 — A drill and three-jawed chuck for use on a bench lathe. 
The drill chuck has a Morse taper 

the face plate. The chuck shown is known as a *' scroll 
chuck." The jaws are caused to move by revolving" the 
knurled edge seen at the back. Holes are also drilled in 




Fig- 173 — How work is held in a three-jawed chuck 

this edge so that a hook or handle can be inserted to 
tighten the jaws sufficiently. The work is held in the 



136 Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 

chuck as shown in Fig. 173. With the use of this chuck 
it is not necessary to use two centers in turning a rod 
as the chuck takes the place of the revolving center. Not 
only does it take the place of the revolving center but it 
also replaces the lathe dog. Therefore when using the 
chuck it is not necessary to drill two centers on the 
stock. 

It mil be necessary to use different speeds for differ- 
ent metals. Brass stock should be revolved at high speed 
and steel and iron at comparatively lower speeds. 

Oftentimes a small file can be used advantageously in 
finishing work being turned. The file is merely held on 
the surface of the work and carried forward with a light 
stroke. Emery cloth mil also be found useful in produc- 
ing a polish or taking off a very little metal. The cloth 
should be cut in strips and Avound half around the stock 
and pressed tightly with the fingers. If a high polish is 
desired, a very fine cloth should be used and a light pres- 
sure applied. 

The utility of the lathe is still further increased by the 
addition of a drill chuck as shown at A, Fig. 172. The 
drill chuck is provided mth a tapered shank. This ta- 
pered shank fits in place in the tail stock. Before it can 
be put in place it is necessary to remove the tail stock 
center, which is also provided with a taper shank. With 
the use of the drill chuck it is possible to use the lathe as 
a drill press and for other miscellaneous jobs. If it is 
desired to drill a hole in a piece of work that is held in 
the large chuck, the drill is merely inserted in the drill 
chuck, the tail stock moved along to the proper position 
and clamped and the drill is then fed into the work. 

It will be found that the hole in the spindle of the lathe 
which held the live center is tapered to accommodate the 



Introduction to Lathe Work 



137 



shank of the drill chuck. To extend the use of the lathe 
as a drill press the drill ^huck is placed in the spindle. 
Then what is known as a drill pad is placed in the tail 
stock. Such a drill pad is illustrated at Fig. 174. This 
is also provided with a tapered shank which feeds into 
the hole in the tail stock. The work to be drilled is held 




Fig. 174— A drill pad for use in the tail stock of a bench lathe 

against the surface of the drill pad. The little stud or 
pin in the drill pad is used to prevent the work from turn- 
ing or slipping from the grasp of the mechanic. 
As before stated, it is practically impossible for an 




Fig. 175— A slide rest for a bench lathe of popular make 

amateur to produce accurate work with hand turning 
tools. To do this a slide rest must be added to the equip- 
ment of the lathe. A small slide rest manufactured to 
use on the lathe mentioned in this chapter is illustrated 



138 



Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 



at Fig. 175. The cutting tool is held rigidly in the slide 
rest and fed to the work with me two handles on the de- 
vice. One handle moves the tool parallel mtli the sur- 
faces of the work and the other moves it transversely 
or into the work. The tools used with the slide i-est are 
different from those of the hand variety. They consist 
merely of a piece of tool steel with a properly ground 
cutting eda:e. 





I — Left-hand side tool 
2 — Right-hand side tool 
3 — Right-hand bent tool 

7 — Cutting-off tool 

8 — Threading tool 

9 — Bend threading tool 



4 — Right-hand diamond point 
5 — Left-hand diamond point 
6 — Round-nose tool 

10 — Roughing tool 

II — Boring tool 

12 — Inside threading tool 



A complete set of lathe tools is sho\^^l at Fig. 176. 
Each tool is intended for special work. The uses of the 
various lathe tools are illustrated in Fig. 177. The 
mechanic will readily understand these tools and their 



Introduction to Lathe Work 



139 



uses with the possible exception of the tool used in cut- 
ting screw threads. The use of this particular tool will 
be described in a later chapter. 

To work properly, lathe tools must be kept in a sharp- 
ened condition. When their cutting edges become badly 




Facing End 
of Shoiff 



Positive 
Rake - Steel 



N egative 
Rake- Brass 



Fig. 177 — Illustrating the use of the different lathe tools shown in 

Fig. 176 



worn they are generally brought back to shape on a 
grinding wheel. In grinding a tool, care should be taken 
to see that its temper is not effected by over-heating. 
To prevent this the tool should be dipped repeatedly in a 
convenient receptacle of cold water. If a drill is allowed 



140 Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 

to remain on a grinding stone until its point becomes 
blue, it is rendered useless for further work until it is 
again put through a hardening process. This is called 
''burning" the tool. 

Two badly ground tools are shoA\ai at A and B, Fig. 
178. The tool shown at B will not cut effectively owing 
to the fact that its actual cutting edge is prevented from 
coming in contact mth the work. In fact, if the tool is 
ground too round, the cutting edge will not come in con- 
tact with the work at all and the metal will be rubbed 
away. This will set up undue friction and if the stock is 
revolving at a high rate of speed the drill is very apt to 
lose its hardness by over-heating. 




B 
Fig. 178 — Improperly ground lathe tools 

The opposite extreme is shown at A. A tool ground 
in this manner will be very apt to break. This is because 
the cutting point does not have the proper support from 
beneath. The steel from which tools are made is hard- 
ened to such an extreme degree that it is very brittle and 
breaks with very little strain. 



CHAPTER VI 

Advanced Lathe Work 

Larger lathes — Description of lathe parts — Lathe saddle — Tailstock 
— Use of tailstock — Headstock — Slide rest — Use of slide rest — 
Cross slide — Center rest — Use of center rest — Live center — Dead 
center — How to take care of centers — Pulleys — Lathe speed — 
Back gears — Use of back gears for various speeds — Live center 
— Dead center — Grinding centers — Mounting work between cen- 
ters — Lathe chuck — Lubrication and care of lathe — Setting up 
and driving the lathe — Power required — Setting up line shaft 
and countershaft — Lathe swing — Shaft hangers — Speed of line 
shaft — Mounting of power motor — Bench lathes — Simple turning 
— Boring cylinder — Machining crankcase — Making bearings — 
Machining odd shaped pieces of work — Use of face plate — Use of 
blocks and clamping bolts — Use of angle plate — Mounting casting 
of angle plate for machining — Turning sheet metal — Turning ec- 
centrics — Use of mandrels — Eccentric mandrels — Turning fly- 
wheels — Boring bars — Boring tools — Use of boring bars — Turn- 
ing crankshafts — Turning four-throw crankshaft — Making built- 
up crankshaft — Thrust bolts — Screw cutting — Placing gears for 
screw cutting — Grinding and mounting tools for screw cutting 
— Thread gauges. 

Before starting the subject of more advanced lathe 
work it will l)e well to consider the standard lathe and its 
fitments. The small lathe showm in Fig. 179 is very well 
adapted for nse in the amateur 's shop. Such a lathe can 
be purchased for about $150.00 and a great amount of 
work can be accomplished with it. In fact, with a few 
attachments, practically any ordinary job of machining 
can be done. 

The general principle of this lathe, of course, does not 

141 



142 



Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 



differ from that of the more simple tool described in the 
previous Chapter; it merely has a greater number of 
attachments. The saddle which holds the compound slide 
rest is moved along the lathe bed by means of the apron 
hand wheel. This is accomplished through a rack and 
pinion system and the rack will be noticed at the side of 
the lathe body near the top. The compound rest has two 
handles, one Avhich feeds the tool parallel with the work 
and one which feeds it crosswise. The tool post will be 



Cone ^ /Face Plate Tool Post „ _ B.nderScr2>A 
'■? jy / BockCenkr 

\f Compound ft'.Crossfsecl \ 

5j( Tool Rest R' Tailotock.. 

Center 




Fig« 179 — A screw-cutting lathe and the names of its various parts 

noticed on the top of the compound rest and the tool is 
held in place by the screw at the top of the post. This 
particular portion of the lathe should be well taken care 
of as inaccuracy in the work being turned will result if 
its parts are not carefully adjusted and maintained in 
good condition. 



Advanced Lathe Work 143 

The tail stock of the lathe is provided with a ball crank 
at the end, by means of which the spindle is moved for- 
ward and backward. This spindle can be locked in any 
one position by means of the binder screw at the top. 
The back center is held in the hollow spindle of the tail 
stock and this can be taken ont by moving the spindle 
back as far as it will go, by means of the feed handle or 
ball crank. The center can be replaced by either a drill 
chuck or a drill pad. Large drills with tapered shanl-cs 
can also be placed in the tail stock spindle providing the 
taper corresponds with that of the spindle. On larger 
latlies, means are provided to set the tail stock off center 
to accomplish taper turning. This will be described in 
detail in a later part of this Chapter. The complete tail 
stock can be moved along the lathe bed and locked in any 
position by means of a binder screw and nut on the op- 
posite side to that shown in the photograph. 

The head stock spindle also has a standard taper and 
is made to accommodate a center. External threads are 
cut on the nose of the spindle and in this way the face 
plate, driver plate, or chuck is put in place. To remove 
these attachments the back gears should be throAvn in 
mesh and the chuck or plate should be turned in the same 
direction in which the lathe travels. 

The particular lathe shown in Fig. 179 is provided with 
a cone pulley Avhich has four steps and these four vari- 
ations in speed can be obtained without resorting to the 
back gears. The back gears of the lathe are only em- 
ployed when heavy turning is being done. It must be 
imderstood that adjusting the motor speed for such a 
purpose would be very impractical, and, in fact, it would 
be impossible for many jobs. A reduction in the motor 
speed would mean a reduction in the power developed 



144 Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 

by the motor and therefore the motor would not be able 
to turn the lathe around if a heavy cut was being taken. 
By the use of the back gears, the speed reduction is ob- 
tained without any necessary reduction in the speed of 
the motor. Therefore, the duty imposed upon the motor 
is the same and its speed will be maintained at its nor- 
mal Avorking capacity. 

The lead screw shoAvn at the side of the lathe runs its 
entire length and at the head stock end a small gear is 
attached. This gear is one of a train of gears that con- 
nects the lead screw to the spindle of the head stock. 
The speed of the lead screw can be regulated by a proper 
selection of gears. A set of screw-cutting gears is shoA\m 
Avith the attachments which rest beneath the lathe in 
Fig. 179. 

On the back of the lathe apron there is a split nut and 
this split nut can be tightened by the apron nut cam. 
When this is done, the lead scrcAv drives the saddle of 
the lathe along the lathe bed. A\Tien a properly ground 
tool is inserted in the tool post, screAv cutting can be ac- 
complished in this manner. It is not advisable to go more 
deeply into the subject of screw cutting at this juncture. 
Therefore, this particular phase of lathe Avork A\dll be 
considered in the latter part of this Chapter. 

The necessary attachments for a larger lathe are 
shoAATi underneath the lathe in Fig, 179. The center rest 
is a very important attachment and it is used in turning 
long rods betAveen centers. If a long piece of stock A\dth 
a small diameter is being turned between centers it Avill 
spring when the tool is brought in contact A\dth it. To 
OA^ercome this, the center rest is used and the rod passes 
through this attachment. The jaws, Avhich are adjust- 
able, are brought in contact Avith the rod and held in this 



Advanced Lathe Work 



145 



position by the screws. A close-up view of a simple, 
three-jawed center rest is sho\\ai in Fig. 180. A binder 
screw is at the side of the center rest so that it can be 
locked in position on the lathe bed. The same wrench is 
used on the nnt of this bolt as is used on the nut of the 
binder screw which locks the tail stock in position. The 
jaws are prevented from slipping back by means of the 




Fig. 1 80 — A three- jawed center rest 

screws showai. These screAvs can also be used in adjust- 
ing the jaws. If the screws are not used in this way, 
they should be turned until their ends come against the 
end of the jaws after the work is mounted. The jaws 
should not be adjusted too tightly as this will wear a 



146 Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 

groove in the work. A two-jaw center rest is shown be- 
side the three-jaw center rest in Fig. 179. 

A good lathe can be kept good only by constant care. 
Once a lathe is rendered inaccurate by abuse, it is a very 
difficult matter to bring it back to its original condition. 
Therefore the amateur mechanic should take a great 
pride in keeping his machine clean and in repair. The 
bearings should be watched carefully and well oiled at 
regular intervals. Only the best grade of machine oil 
should be used. The utmost caution should be taken to 
prevent chips of metal from getting into the bearings. 
The bearings of good lathes are made of bronze and once 
a chip of steel gets into them great havoc is wrought. 
In the event chips find their way into a bearing, it is best 
to take the shaft out of the bearings and wash them well 
with kerosene or gasolene. All the moving parts of the 
lathe should be kept well lubricated. A thin film of oil 
should be always kept on the lathe bed. This permits 
the saddle to ride smoothly and easily over the machined 
surface and it also prevents the bed of the lathe from 
being attacked by moisture. 

When using the lathe, the amateur mechanic may ac- 
quire the habit of placing his tools on the lathe bed, using 
it as a table. This is bad practice as it mars the surface 
of the lathe bed and will therefore impair its accuracy if 
continued. It is a perfectly natural thing to lay a file 
down across the lathe bed temporarily after it has been 
used, but, on the other hand, it would be just as easy 
to place the file on a table at the back of the lathe, which 
could be made to hold the tools being used. If the lathe 
is not to be used for any great length of time, all of its 
machined surfaces should be well smeared with vaseline. 
The lead screw should be kept smeared with grease at all 



Advanced Lathe Work 



147 



times. It will be found that the vaseline can easily be 
removed with a piece of waste soaked in gasolene when 
it is again desired to use the lathe. 

The reader AA'ill now have the general operating fea- 
tures of a lathe in mind and it will be advisable, before 
going further, to say a few words about the setting up of 
a lathe and the method of driving it. The power neces- 
sary to drive a lathe should be determined first, and this 
will depend entirely upon the size of the lathe. Lathes 
are classified in sizes according to their swing and maxi- 



ft 



k 



i^ between Centers ^"M^ 



ID 



Fig. i8i — Showing what is meant by "swing" and "maximum distance 
between centers" 



mum distance between centers. What is meant by the 
swing of the lathe will become apparent by referring to 
Fig. 181. Here it will be seen that the swing of a lathe 
is twice the distance of the center from the bed of the 
lathe. Thus, a lathe with an 11-in. swing is capable of 
turning a piece of work that "wall swdng in a circle nearly 
11 in. in diameter. The maximum distance between cen- 
ters is reached when the tail stock is slid to the end of 
the lathe bed. The horsepower necessary to drive lathes 
w^ith a swing of from 11 in. to 18 in. is given in the fol- 
lowing table: 



148 



Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 



11 inc 

12 

13 

14 

15 

16 

18 



POWER FOR LATHE 

1 swino- — i/o horsepower 

- 1/2 

- % 

- 1 
1 

2 

- 21/, 



The general outline of a lathe and its driving equip- 
ment is shown at Fig. 182A. It will be seen that the motor 
is mounted on a shelf or a bracket on the wall. A belt 



n 

' — ' r 1 ' 



Power Mot on 



Drivi'ng Belf--.^ 




[ot^^o] 



Jl 




^'Lafhe 



[o]::^:::^] 



Fie. 182A — The layout of a small lathe shop 



Advanced Lathe Work 



149 



runs from this to the line shaft and from the line shaft 
two belts rnn to the lathe counter-shaft. One of the belts 
which runs to the lathe counter-shaft is twisted and by 
means of a clutch the rotation of the lathe can be re- 
versed. It is often necessary to reverse the lathe during 
screw cutting. Ordinarily the twisted belt runs over an 




Fig 182B — The position of the lathe in relation to the countershaft 

idle pulley but it is caused to take the load of the lathe 
by a wooden lever within reach of the Avorker. This lever 
actuates a clutch and when thrown to one side it engages 
the pulley upon which the twisted belt runs or the pulley 
upon which the straight belt runs. When in a neutral 
position, the clutch does not engage either pulley and the 
lathe receives no power. 



150 



Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 



The line shaft in the small shop is not only used to 
drive the lathe but other shop equipment such as drill 
press grinder, etc. The line shaft is held to the 
ceiling by what are known as shaft hangers. The num- 
ber of hangers used will depend upon the length of the 
shaft, but they should be spaced not more than 6 ft. apart. 
The method of securing the hangers to the ceiling joists 
is shown in Fig. 183. The 2 x 6's are secured to the 




A 



r -Hancfers- ^^ 



^-MjsA 



Screws 




2"x6"-' 




Fig. 183 — Method of holding the shaft hangers to the ceiling 

ceiling with lag screws. They should be arranged at 
right angles to the ceiling joists. This can be assured 
by the use of a square. The hangers are fastened to the 
2 X 6^s by the use of heavy bolts. There are several dif- 
ferent types of hangers on the market and many of these 
are made of pressed steel. Others are cast. All hang- 
ers, however, are merely used to hold the bearings of the 
line shaft. The line shaft is of cold rolled steel approxi- 
mately 114 in. in diameter. It should not vary over % in. 



Advanced Lathe Work 151 

above or below this figure. Either wooden or steel pul- 
leys can be used on the line shaft. Split wooden pulleys 
are to be especially recommended. These pulleys come 
in halves and are bolted over the line shaft. 

The speed of the line shaft is very important and for 
a small lathe it should rotate in the neig-hborhood of 
200 R.P.M. Electric motors of from Vo to 21/0 horse- 
power generally have a speed between 1000 and 1500 
R.P.M. For this reason it mil be necessary to place a 
small pulley on the motor and a large pulley on the 
line shaft to obtain the proper speed reduction. 
Knowing the speed of the motor and the speed desired 
it is an easy matter to figure out the relative sizes of tlie 
pulleys to be used. The motor should be mounted 10 to 
12 ft. from the line shaft. Motors over i/^ horsepower 
generally require a starting box and this should be lo- 
cated directly under the motor on the Avail. 

When the line shaft is in position tlie countershaft is 
then fastened to the ceiling. The countershaft is always 
furnished with the lathe and the price of a lathe includes 
this item. The countershaft is secured to the ceiling in 
the same manner as the line shaft. The greatest care 
should be taken to see that the countershaft is mounted 
exactly parallel vdih the line shaft, otherwise the belts 
will be continually running off. Tlie lathe countershaft 
should be mounted about 6 ft. from the line shaft. If 
necessary it can be mounted farther away, but, under 
no circumstances should it be placed any closer. 

With the line and countershaft in place, the lathe is 
ready to be secured to the floor beneath the countershaft. 
As shown in Fig. 182B, the lathe should properly be 
mounted from 6 in. to 1 ft. from the countershaft so that 
the driving belt will be at a slight angle. The lathe is 



152 Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 

mounted exactly parallel with the countershaft and it 
is held to the floor with stay-bolts. In securing the lathe 
to the floor, a level should be used freely. The level 
should be placed across the lathe bed first at one end and 
then at the other, and if it is not sitting true, shims should 
be used to bring it to the proper position. Pieces of 
shingle make suitable shims. The level should also be 
placed parallel wath the lathe bed to see that the lathe 
is not higher at one end than at the other. 

If the workshop is on the ground floor it is often pos- 
sible to make a concrete bed for the lathe to sit on. This 
gives a very rigid mounting and causes a minimum of vi- 
bration when the lathe is running at high speed. In the 
case of the lathe being mounted on concrete, expansion 
bolts are used to hold it down. 

Before mounting a lathe, the location should be care- 
fully figured out so that there will be ample space for 
the line shaft and countershaft. The light should also 
enter into consideration and if possible the lathe should 
be so arranged that the light will come over the mechan- 
ic's right shoulder. All lathes have a hollow sjjindle for 
turning long rods and the lathe should not be mounted 
too close to the wall, otherwise it would be impossible 
to take advantage of this valuable feature. 

With the line shaft, countershaft and lathe in posi- 
tion, the belts can be put in place. Leather belting should 
be used throughout. In placing the belts, the smooth 
side should run over the pulley. The rough side of a belt 
should never be used owing to the fact that poor traction 
results. This is caused by air pockets forming between 
the belt and the pulley. When a perfectly smooth belt is 
used most of the air pockets are squeezed out from be- 
tween the pulley and belt and good traction is obtained. 



Advanced Lathe Work 153 

Not every amateur is able to afford a costly lathe and 
many have to be satisfied w^th a small bench lathe. Such, 
a lathe is shown in Fig. 184. It derives its name from 
the fact that it is usually placed upon the work bench. 
The little lathe shown is a very good type and all the 
operations done on a larger lathe can be accomplished 
with it. Such a lathe is mounted on the bench with bolts 
and its countershaft can be placed above it on the wall. 




Fig. 184 — A small screw-cutting bench lathe 

Having set up the lathe it mil be well to try a sample 
piece of turning. This will do more than anything else 
to acquaint the mechanic with his lathe — it is actual ex- 
perience which makes good mechanics. It will be as- 
sumed that a small roller is to be turned according to the 
shape and dimensions given in Fig. 185. It will be seen 
that the diameter of the finished roller is one inch at the 
widest point. To make the lesson more instructive it 
will be assumed that a piece of li/4-in. stock is the only 



154 



Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 



material available from which to turn the roller. The 
first thing necessary will be the facing of both ends of 
the stock. To do this it is placed in the chuck and the 
right-hand side or facing tool is mounted in the tool post. 
For turning on larger lathes it is advisable to mount the 
tool so that its cutting edge will be about 5 degrees above 
the center of the work. With the facing tool in the proper 
position, the end of the stock in the chuck is faced off 
square. When this is done, the piece is taken out of the 
chuck, turned around, and the opposite end of it faced 
off. The drill chuck is then placed in the tail stock spin- 
dle and the centering drill put into it. The tail stock is 



k: -/" 



^4^ /// 



Fig. 185 — A piece to be turned as an elementary lesson in lathe 

turning 

then moved to a position where the point of the center- 
ing drill will be about i/o in. from the end of the stock. 
The binder screw of the tail stock is then tightened and 
the centering drill is fed into the Avork to the proper dis- 
tance. The stock should then be taken out of the chuck 
and turned around so that the centering drill can be 
used on the opposite end. To do this the tail stock must 
be removed and brought back to position when the stock 
is remounted in the chuck. When the chuck is used to 
find the center it ^^A^1 not be necessary to employ a cen- 
tering punch. All lathe chucks are self-centering; w^hen 



Advanced Lathe WorJi 



155. 



a piece of round stock is mounted in them it will auto- 
matically come to center as all three jaws of the chuck 
move at the same speed toward the center and they are 
all mounted in the same position in relation to the cen- 
ter of the chuck. An ordinary lathe chuck is shown at 
Fig. 186. This is a 3-jaw chuck and a piece of stock will 
be noticed mounted in place ready for turning. The jaws 




Fig. i86— Work in a three-jawed lathe chuck 



of the chuck are moved by means of the key and when 
placing work in the chuck for turning it should be tight- 
ened sufficiently to prevent it from revolving. If a piece 
of tubing is mounted in the lathe the jaws of the chuck 
should be moved outward until the shoulders of the jaAVS 
come into contact with the inside of the tube. If the 
tubing is thin, the jaws should not be tightened too much, 
as this will spring it out of shape. If an extra large piece 



156 



Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 



of tubing or stock is to be turned, outside jaws for the 
chuck should be used. To use these it mil be necessary 
to remove the regula*r jaws of the chuck. This can be 
done by turning the key until the jaws are disengaged. 
They are then lifted out and the outside jaws put in their 
place. It mil be necessary to put each jaw in the proper 
place and upon examining the jaws it mil be found that 
they are marked 1, 2 and 3. It will also be found that the 
slots in the chuck which receive the jaws are numbered 
1, 2 and 3 and the corresponding jaw should be placed 
in the corresponding slot. A set of outside jaws is slio^\m 
at Fig. 187. 




Fig. 187 — The jaws of a three-jawed lathe chuck 



Returning to the roller which was being turned. With 
the centering completed, the back gears of the lathe are 
throA\Ti in and the key inserted in the chuck. The chuck 
is then given a sharp twist in the same direction in which 
the lathe revolves and in this way the chuck is removed. 
^\nien the chuck approaches the end of the screw threads 
on the lathe spindle, it should be handled carefully, other- 
wise the threads Avill be damaged. The chuck is then 
laid away and replaced on the lathe with the face plate. 



Advanced Lathe Work 157 

When this is done both the centers are put in place. The 
lathe dog (similar to that shown at Fig. 188) is put over 
the stock and the set screw tightened. The projecting 
arm of the lathe dog is placed in one of the slots of the 
face plate with the center of the lathe in the center hole 
of the stock. Tlie tail stock of the lathe is then advanced 
until the center engages the other center hole of the 
stock. The binder screw is then tightened and when the 
back gears are thrown out the stock is in position for 
turning. In locking the tail stock in position the 
mechanic should see that the centers do not hold the work 
too tightly, otherwise undue friction will be set up and 
the center mil be worn away. It will be found that there 
is a center for the tail stock and a center for the head 



]4rm 




Fig. 1 88 — A lathe dog of standard type 

stock of the lathe. Each center should be used in its 
proper place. The centers do not differ in shape or 
taper but one is hardened and the other is soft. It will 
be seen that the head stock center revolves with the work, 
but the tail stock center is stationary and therefore the 
work revolves upon it. For this reason the tail stock 
center is made of hardened steel. Before setting the 
lathe in motion, a few drops of oil should be placed on 
the tail stock center. 

The rod is then turned to approximately 1 in. in diam- 
eter \yith a diamond-point tool. 0^^ing to the fact that 
considerable metal is to be removed it will be necessary to 



158 Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 

take several cuts with this tool. The mechanic should 
take care not to make the cuts too heavy, as the tool is 
very apt to break. It will be seen that the roller is to 
be turned accurately to 1 in. In this case, the calipers 
should be set to 63/64ths of an inch. "When the rod has 
reached this diameter a very light cut should be taken 
and the micrometer is then applied to the work. If this 
cut has not been sufficient but is a few thousandths of an 
inch over size, it can be finished to size by the use of 
emery cloth of fine grit. This is wound around the Avork 
one-half a time and held tightly with the fingers, at the 
same time running it back and forth. The micrometer 
can be applied again and this procedure is repeated until 
the final exact measurement of 1 in. is obtained. The 
diamond-pointed tool is then taken from the tool post and 
replaced with a parting tool. One inch from the tail- 
stock end the parting tool is run into the work. Tliis 
measurement can be obtained by stopping the lathe, plac- 
ing the scale at the end of the stock and bringing the 
parting tool to the one-inch mark on the scale. The 
parting tool is run into the stock until a diameter 1/32 
in. larger than the finished size is reached. In this case, 
the diameter arrived at by the parting tool should be 
17/32 in. The calipers should be used in determining 
the distance the parting tool cuts into the work. Having 
accomplished this, the lathe is again stopped and the 
scale is put at the end of the groove cut by the parting 
tool. The tool is then run two inches down the stock 
and another cut the same as the previous one is made. 
The parting tool is then taken out of the tool post and 
replaced with the diamond-pointed tool. The super- 
fluous metal is then cut away from the ends of the rod. 
The last l/32nd in. or so of metal is then approximately 



\ 



Advanced Lathe Work 



159 



taken off with a single cut and the micrometer applied. 
In making this last cut the mechanic sliould be sure to 
leave the stock a little large rather than small so that the 
final diameter can be produced wdth the aid of emery 
cloth. After a mechanic becomes more familiar with the 




Fig. 189 — Drawing of a crankcase to be machined and finished on 
the lathe as described in the text 

manipulation of a lathe he Avill find that it is not so diffi- 
cult to arrive at the final measurement with the use of 
the lathe tool only, but until he reaches this degree of 
proficiency he may find it necessary to resort to the use 
of abrasive cloth. To finish the roller the lathe is again 
stopped and the tool is brought into contact with the 
work one inch from the shoulder nearest the head stock. 







-.--9/J£ 


-> 




^ — 




V 




A 


1 


1 


1 






1 




J 




/ 




Y 




Fig. igo—A model compressor cylinder to be machined 

The parting tool is then run through the stock and the 
finished roller can be caught in the hand as it drops off. 
This little job, if carried out correctly, w^ill teach the 
amateur mechanic many things about lathe manipulation 
and to further his knowledge he is urged to do several 



1()0 Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 

other jobs of tliis nature before he attacks anything more 
difficult. When a piece of ordinary stock is placed in 
the lathe and turned it does not make much difference 
whether or not it is spoiled, but when a piece is put in 
which cannot be duplicated it is quite a different matter. 
Another valuable lesson in lathe turning can be ob- 
tained by following the operations necessary to finisli 
the model compressor cylinder and crank case halves 
shown in Fig. 189 and in the (drawing, Fig. 190. Atten- 
tion will first be directed to the turning of the cylinder. 
This is to be bored out exactly 1 in. in diameter. It would 
be a very easy matter to mount this in the chuck, run a 
63/64 drill in and follow this with a 1-in. reamer. But 
both the drill and the reamer are expensive tools and 
the machining of the little cylinder can be accomplished 
on any lathe very easily. Like many other things, the 
cylinder can be machined in more than one Avay but there 
is always the easiest, cheapest and most practical way. 
This is true with few exceptions. The rough casting of 
the cylinder is first chucked as shown in Fig. 191. After 
the cylinder is chucked the lathe should be set in motion 
for the purpose of determining whether or not the cyl- 
inder is revolving true. This can be determined by 
bringing a piece of chalk up to the round portion of the 
cylinder until it touches. If the chalk does not produce 
a mark all the way round the cylinder, it is not running 
true. It can be brought to proper position by tapping- 
it with a hammer very lightly, or, if this is not effective, 
it can be taken out of the chuck and turned around. The 
boring tool is then inserted in the tool post, brought to 
the proper height, tightened, run up to the mouth of the 
cylinder and a light cut taken as far as the tool will go. 
The tool is then withdrawn and another light cut taken. 



Advanced Lathe Work 



161 



This cutting operation is continued until the cylinder 
approaches the correct diameter. The inside calipers are 
then used frequently. When the cylinder is approach- 
ing the final diameter, it will be well to take the tool out 
of the post and sharpen it on a grinding wheel. To put 
a very good edge on a small hand stone should be rubbed 
over the point of the tool. It is again inserted in the tool 
post and the final cut taken. In taking this final cut the 



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1 




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1 


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i^^^M 


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W 


Ik 


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^BlffinnM 


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£1 


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n^mm 


j||t;ji.;nu| 



Fig. igi — Boring out the compressor cylinder on the lathe 

tool should travel very slowly so that a nicely finished 
surface will result. The boring tool is then replaced in 
the c?mck with a left-hand facing tool and the base of 
tlie cylinder is then nicely faced off. A\Tien this is done 
tlie cylinder is taken out of the chuck. A Avooden man- 
drel or stick is turned to a diameter of approximately 
1 in. and forced into the cylinder. A mandrel is a rod 
or cylinder upon which work is placed to ' be turned. 
Mandrels are generally made of steel and they are used 



1G2 



Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 



only with work which cannot be held in the chuck. If 
the outside of the cylinder being turned had to be per- 
fectly accurate a wooden mandrel would not be used, but 
in this case all that is desired is a finished outer surface 
and no special attention need be paid to extreme ac- 
curacy. The wooden mandrel should make a very tight 
fit into the cylinder so tliat it will carry the cylinder 
around without slipping while the cut is being made. 
(See Fig. 192.) The top of the cylinder is drilled out 




Fig. 192 — Turning the outside of the cylinder on a wooden mandrel 

with a centering drill and the center is inserted in this 
to further support the work of the mandrel. The dia- 
mond-pointed tool is then used in bringing the outside 
of the cylinder to tlie proper dimensions. In cutting the 
shoulders at the top of the cylinder it is well to substi- 
tute the parting tool for the diamond-pointed tool. The 
base of the cylinder is, of course, faced off with the left- 
hand facing tool. This completes the lathe work on the 



Advanced Lathe Work 163 

cylinder and the crankcase halves mil be considered next. 

The inside of the erankcase halves should be faced up 
first. To do this each half is held in tlie chuck by means 
of the hub, as sIioaa'u in Fig. 193. The pjopcr diameter is 
produced with the boring tool and the facing of the in- 
side is done with a round-nosed tool. The outer surface 
is faced with the left-hand facing tool. 

The drill chuck is then inserted in the spindle of the 
tail stock and a Vs in. drill inserted. The tail stock is 





r 


J^^^^^^^^^^^^^^.4., <^|_ 


^^^^^^^H 




l-^iaMMiiltatv 



Fig' 193 — Turning out the inside of one of the crankcase halves 

then brought to the proper position and the inside of 
the hub or casting is drilled out to acconunodate the brass 
bushing which is to be inserted later. When this is done, 
the casting is taken out of the chuck and turned around. 
The end of the hub is then faced off true. It will be seen 
that the casting is re-chucked by opening the jaws instead 
of closing them. In doing this, the casting should be 
pressed tightly against the shoulders of the chuck. 



164 Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 

Brass bearings or bushings Avhich fit into the hubs are 
to be made. A piece of brass stock should be inserted 
between centers and turned down about 1/1000 of an 
inch larger than the size of the drill used in making the 
hole in the hub. Two pieces the proper length for the 
bearings are then cut off with the parting tool. These 
pieces are then put in the chuck and their center is drilled 
out witli an 11/64 drill. The bearings are then ready 




Fig. 194 — How the crankcase halves are mounted for facing off 

the hub 

to be forced into the hub and as they are oversize it -will 
be necessary to apply some pressure in doing this. The 
vise will be found very convenient in driving these bear- 
ings to their proper position in the hub. "WTien this is 
done, the crankcase half is remounted in the chuck as 
shoA\Ti in Fig. 194. A %-in. reamer is then used to ream 
the ll/64ths hole out. This reamer is held in the lathe 
as sho^^^l at Fig. 195. It is mounted in this manner so 
that it will follow the hole. Of course, there would be 



Advanced Lathe Work 



165 



no serious objection to mounting the reamer in the large 
chuck and mounting the crankcase half on the drill pad. 
However, the procedure outlined must be acknowledged 
to be more practical. After the hole is reamed out a 
left-hand facing tool is mounted in the tool post and a 
very light cut taken otf the end of the hub. This is to 
make the bearing perfectly flush with the casting. When 
this is done, the casting is turned around and the same 
operation performed on the other side of the hub. 




Fig. 195 — How the bearings of the crankcase halves are reamed out 

What the author desires to do in this Chapter is to 
teach the mechanic to use his head — a thing which every 
good mechanic must learn to do.. As before stated there 
are always several ways of doing a thing, but in most 
cases there is the most practical method. For this rea- 
son, the mechanic should always carefully analyze his 
job before he decides definitely upon a method of pro- 
cedure. 

Many times the inexperienced mechanic has an awk- 
ward part to machine and he is generally at a loss to 



166 



Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 



know just how to mount it in the latlie for turning. The 
seasoned mechanic has a peculiar instinct Avhich tells him 
just how to overcome this obstacle which causes the l)e- 
ginner such a great amount of trouble. The following 
paragraphs will be devoted to the turning of odd-shaped 
pieces. 

When an odd-shaped piece is to be turned, the mechauic 
should first determine whether or not it is possible to 




Fig. 196 — A large lathe face plate 



mount it upon the face plate of his lathe. The face plate 
of a lathe is provided with various slots and by the use 
of small carriage bolts it is possible to mount various- 
shaped pieces upon it. A face plate is shown in Fig. 196. 
In putting the face plate upon the lathe the threads and 
the nose of the lathe should be wiped off carefully and 
the internal threads of the face plate should also be 
cleaned carefully in order to prevent a chip of metal 
from getting between the face plate and the lathe spindle. 
This would cause the face plate to run out of true. 



Advanced Lathe Work 



167 



A very simple use of the face plate is shown at Fig. 197. 
This shows how a small flywheel is mounted on the plate 
for facing off. The small clamps are made from steel 



Face Plate > 




Fig. 197 — How a piece of sheet metal may be turned out on the lathe 

stock and provided with holes through which the small 
carriage bolts pass. The bolt passes through the face 
plate A\^th the threaded end on the outside so that the 
nuts can be tightened conveniently. Before the nuts are 

■Wood strips 
V- 



BhcH- 



Faci . 
Plate 



FC 



\KyL 



''-Clamp 

Cylinder 
..Bolt 



Fig. 198 — How a small cylinder is mounted for boring 

tightened, however, the wheel should be made to run true 
and oftentimes this can lie facilitated by putting the cen- 
ter in the head stock spindle. If the wheel was being 
faced off it would be turned around when one side was 
done and remounted for the turning of the other side. 
Another use of the face plate is shown at Fig. 198 



168 



Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 



where a small cylinder is mounted for boring. Large car- 
riage bolts are used in connection with steel clamps. The 
outer edges of the clamps are supported by strips of 
wood which prevent them from slipping off the edge of 
the cylinder. It will also be noticed that two small strips 
of Avood are interposed between the face plate and the 
cylinder. This is to provide space for the boring tool to 
protrude after it has finished the cut in the cylinder and 
it is very important that this be done. Otherwise the 
tool will destroy the surface of the face plate. 




Fig. 199 — Holding bolts for use on a face plate 

Clamping bolts greatly increase the usefulness of the 
ordinary face plate. Such a bolt is shown at Fig. 199 A, 
and at B the use of clamping bolts is made clear. Here 
they are holding a small crank in place while the hub is 
being faced off. In turning a job of this nature it will be 
necessary to place a counter-weight on the opposite side 
of the face plate. Othermse the lathe mil vibrate exces- 
sively. Excessive vibration is very bad for a lathe. Not 
only does it destroy its accuracy but it decreases its use- 
ful life. It is well for the mechanic to have an assort- 
ment of counter-weights on hand of various sizes so that 
one or a combination of several can be found for prac- 
tically any job. Such weights can be very easily made 



Advanced Lathe Work 



169 



by drilling out the center of a piece of one-inch cold rolled 
steel. Different weights can be made by cutting various 
lengths. Once the counter-weight is put in place, it 
should be adjusted until the vibration is eliminated. 

An angle plate is absolutely necessary in accomplish- 
ing certain jobs on the lathe. The use of an angle plate 
is shown at Fig. 200. The plate itself is bolted to the 
surface plate and the work in turn bolted upon the angle 
plate. It will be seen that a small elbow is being turned 
at Fig. 200. The angle plate should have several holes 
drilled in it so that various-sized pieces of work can be 
accommodated either by the use of bolts or with bolts 
and clamps combined. It mil be seen that such an angle 



^ 




Counferweioihi 



^. El bow to 
if be faced 



^^Angle Plate 



Fig. 200 — An elbow mounted for facing on a face plate 

plate must have its surfaces at exact right angles to each 
other, otherwise it will be practically useless in turning 
work accurately. The elbow mounted on the angle plate 
in Fig, 200 must have its surfaces protruding over the 
edge of the plate so that it will come in contact with the 
cutting tool. Owing to the fact that the angle plate is not 
centered on the face plate it will be necessary to use a 
heavy counter- weight to prevent vibration. 

Still another use of the angle plate is showTi at Fig. 
201. Here a small, split bearing is being faced off. Two 



170 



Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 



bolts pass through the holes in tlie bearing halves and 
hold them to the angle plate, in ^vhich position they are 
accessible for turning. It will be fonnd that the angle 
plate is an extremely useful device for many odd jobs 
and although lathes are not supplied with this attach- 
ment the mechanic will do well to make a simple pattern 
and have one cast at the foundry. 

Wooden blocks are very useful in turning certain odd- 
shaped pieces of work and the mechanic should have an 
assortment of blocks on hand at all times. With an as- 
sortment of blocks and carriage bolts of various sizes 
and lengths the mechanic is prepared to turn a multitude 

Counter weight 



-Bolts 




^Bearincf 



Fig. 20I — A split bearing mounted on a face plate with counter 
weight in place 

of odd-shaped castings that it would otherwise be quite 
impossible to w^ork with. The use of blocks is shown at 
Fig. 202. Here a small face plate is to be surfaced. 
Omng to the fact that the angle plate must be provided 
with several holes, those to accommodate the carriage 
bolts were drilled first to facilitate mounting the device 
upon the face plate. Two blocks cut from 2x4 stock 
were used. The bolts seen protruding pass completely 
through these blocks and the blocks in 'turn are held to 
the face plate by two more bolts, the heads of which 
rest in depressions made in the surface of the blocks, so 



Advanced Lathe Work 



171 



that the angle plate will rest square. The two large 
blocks are held apart with two small strips of wood. The 




Fig. 202 — The use of blocks in mounting an angle plate to the face 
plate for machining 

method of mounting mil be made very clear by referring 
to the sketch at Fig. 203. The angle plate should be 



jzSn 



r-t^ 




Fig. 203 — How the bolts are placed for holding the angle plate to 

the face plate 



bolted very rigidly with no play whatsoever. The angle 
plate mounted upon the lathe is shown in Fig. 204. Be- 



172 



Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 



fore the turning is started the square should be laid on 
the bed of the lathe and its edges brought against the 
surfaces of the angle plate to determine whether it is 
perfectly square or parallel with the surfaces of the face 
plate. If it is not, thin pieces of sheet brass can be placed 
under one block or the other until the plate is brought 
into the proper position. 

The mounting of this angle plate is a good object les- 
son in showing just what can be done by the use of blocks 
of wood. The mechanic should never decide that it is 




Fig. 204— The angle plate mounted on the lathe 



impossible to do a certain piece of machining until he has 
figured out the possibility of employing blocks and bolts 
to mount it on the lathe. 

Sheet metal can be turned on the face plate as showm 
in Fig. 205. First, it will be necessary to cover the face 
plate with a piece of hard wood. This is screwed to the 
face plate, as shown, and in turn the metal to be cut is 
screwed to the wooden surface. The mechanic is warned 



Advanced Lathe Work 



173 



to fasten the sheet metal to the lathe very securely, as 
it mil cause great injury to anyone it happens to stril^e 
if it flies off while the lathe is traveling at high speed. 
Tlie turning of a small eccentric is shown in Fig. 206. 
A single bolt passes through the hole in the eccentric 
and held in this manner it can be machined. Interposed 
between the face plate and the eccentric is a thick washer 
Avhich enables the lathe tool to machine the edge nearest 



Block-. _ n 



Clamp '■ 



Fig. 205 — The use of clamps in holding a flywheel to the face plate 

the face plate. In mounting such an eccentric upon the 
face plate it will be necessary to fix it concentrically in 
relation to the face plate. 

_, ,'Washer 





/Bolt 




4 



^-Eccentric 
'"'Face Plate 

Fig. 206— A small eccentric mounted on the face plate 

The turning of a model locomotive driver is shown in 
Fig. 207. Two small wooden blocks are placed between 
the flywheel and the face plate. The driver is held to 
the plate by means of two small hooks which can be bent 
to shape from a steel rod and threaded at one end to 
accommodate a nut. The live center of the lathe is put 



174 



Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 



in place so that the driver can be mounted correctly. 
After it is machined on one side it can he turned around 
and machined on the opposite side, being held in the same 
manner in both cases. 



-Hook 




Hook 



^'-Driver 



B/ock—^ 



Fig. 207 — A model locomotive driver mounted in the lathe for facing 

Another method of turning such a driver is sho^\Ti at 
Fig. 208. Here the wheel is mounted upon what is known 
as a mandrel. This mandrel, unlike the one previously 



^<-F 



T 



•lywhcd 

...-Driver 



Moinctr«l 



E-D=3< 



w 



\ 



Fig. 208 — Driving a flywheel on a mandrel with a bolt placed on the 

face plate 

described is made of steel and the wheel is held in place 
with a forced fit. The mandrel revolves between centers 



Advanced Lathe Work 



175 



and tlie wheel is driven by means of a bolt or driver ar- 
ranged as shoMii in the sketch. 

Boring is a ver^^ important operation carried out on 
the lathe, and the mechanic will find many occasions to 
use what is known as a boring bar. Such a device is 
sho^\ai in Fig, 209. A boring bar is merely a bar of steel 
with a cutting tool mounted in it. The cutting tool shown 
in Fig, 209 is a special tool made for the purpose of bor- 
ing. It is held in a slot cut transversely in the steel bar 
and a wedge is driven in at the back to hold it in place. 
The insert shows the shape of the tool and it will be seen 
that a slight clearance is made on the opposite edges. 
The real cutting points of the tool are at the corners. 



Too! 



Wedge--,, 



.■Tool 



Bar 




Fig. 209 — The cutter of a boring bar 

Although such a tool cuts very well it has a serious disad- 
vantage, A tool can only be used for one job as it is not 
adjustable. If a 2-in, hole is to be bored out the width 
of the tool at its extreme points must be 2 in. Owing to 
the fact that the tool is not adjustable, the work has to 
l)e done with a single cut and oftentimes this is impos- 
sible. If too heavy a cut is taken, the boring bar will 
twist and therefore inaccuracy 'A\dll surely result. The 
boring bar used should always have a diameter as large 
as possible in order to prevent twisting when a heavy cut 
is taken, 

A boring bar is revolved between centers on the lathe 
and is generally driven ^^4th a lathe dog. Therefore the 



176 



Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 



work being bored out must be mounted upon the lathe 
carriage, otherwise it Avould be impossible to feed the tool 
into the work, or, what is the same, the worK: into the tool 
which is the case with the boring bar. The work of 
mounting pieces for boring will be treated more in detail 
in a later chapter. 

A boring bar with an adjustable tool is shown in the 
cross-section, Fig. 210. The cutting tool used is ground 
to shape from a rod of tool steel and it is held in place 
with a set screw. It will be seen that this tool is adjust- 
able within very wide limits and therefore a considerable 
amount of metal can be removed by its use when several 




Fig. 2IO — An adjustable cutter mounted in a boring bar 

cuts are taken. It must be remembered that when work 
is mounted upon the carriage of the lathe the cross-feed 
cannot be used to adjust the cut. This Avould result in 
boring an eccentric hole, therefore it is necessary to ad- 
just the cutting tool on the boring bar. Extremely fine 
adjustments can be made if the set screw is loosened up 
and the tool tapped with the handle of a screAvdriver and 
the set screw tightened again. 

Another type of boring bar whicli possesses several 
notable advantages is shoA\ai at Fig. 211. The cutting 
tool is held in a collar which feeds over the boring bar, 
the cutting tool being held in place with a set screw. 



Advanced Lathe Work 



177 



The collar is adjustable along the bar and is held in any 
one position by a steel wedge, the collar being provided 
with a keyway for this purpose. A bar similar to that 
shoA\ai in Fig. 211 must be used for boring large holes. 
It would be impossible to make a small bar along these 
lines owing to the fact that the bar upon which the collar 



SefScrew-^^ 




Fig. 211 — Another type of adjustable bar 

was mounted would be so small that it could not resist 
the cutting action of the tool. 

The author has watched amateur mechanics at work 
boring holes on a lathe with an ordinary boring tool, and 





Fig. 212(A) — Improperly ground boring tool 
Fig. 212(B) — Properly ground boring tool 

has often seen them trying to accomplish the impossible 
by using a tool similar to that shown at A in Fig. 212. 
An examination of the drawing will readily show what 
is wrong ^\'ith such a tool and why it cannot be used. A 
I)roperly ground boring tool for such an operation is il- 
lustrated at B. With this tool it Avill be possible to cut 
to the back face of the work. 



178 ShoiJ Practice for Home Mechanics 

Another common mistake is shown at Fig. 213. The 
tool at A will not cut because its clearance is such that it 
merely rubs against the surface of the work. A proi>erly 
ground tool for cutting is sho\m at B. 

Probably the most difficult work for the inexperienced 
mechanic is the making of small crankshafts for steam 
engines, pumps, gas engines, etc. This fact holds true 
both in the case of turning the crankshafts on the lathe 
or building them up from the steel stock without resort- 





Fig. 213 — Two cases of improperly ground boring tools 

ing to the lathe. The many hints and the practical in- 
formation contained in the following paragraphs should 
enable the most rank and inexperienced mechanic to 
make crankshafts mth ever^^ hope that they can really 
be used on an engine after the job is finished. To the 
experienced mechanic, of course, the job of turning or 
building up a small crankshaft is all part of the day's 
work, and it is not looked upon with fear or uncertainty. 
Turning small crankshafts in the lathe is probably 
more difficult than building them up from stock and for 
this reason the lathe work a\411 be considered first. If a 
shaft is to be cut and turned from a solid piece of steel 
stock, the preliminary cutting, of course, is accomplished 



Advanced Lathe Work 



179 



by means of the liacksaAv before tlie work is ready to be 
mounted between centers to turn the crank pin and the 
shaft proper. The procedure in producing a small shaft 
for a single cylinder engine is depicted at Fig. 214. The 



lOOOOCl 



•ooooooooocy 



7S ^ 



-jfooooooooocy 



DnV/'' 



~^Saw Cufs 



^- 



Fig. 214 — How the crankshaft is cut out in the rough 

first operation is to mark out a facsimile of the shaft on 
the surface of the steel stock. A small drill is then 
mounted in the drill press and the holes shown in the 
sketch are drilled. The hack saw then comes into use 
and the cuts depicted by means of the heavy lines are 



180 



Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 



made in the steel. The pieces are then removed with the 
aid of a cold chisel and a couple of good smart blows from 
a hammer. When this operation is finished, the shaft is 
mounted between centers and the turning of the main 
portions done, the crank pin being left until last. After 
the main portions of the shaft are turned doAvn to the 
exact diameter, it is taken off the lathe and mounted upon 
the centers for the turning of the crank pin. These cen- 
ters are found in the projecting portions of the steel 
stock that were left on the original piece for this purpose. 
Owing to the fact that these projections on the partly 
finished crankshaft are not substantial, too much strain 
should not be brought to bear upon tliem. In case the 
shaft being turned is very small it might be well to leave 



■'-90''-^^ 



P3 OJ 



# 




] 



a 



O 



Fig. 215 — Several types of end plates for use in turning out 
crankshafts 

more stock on the end so that it would not be too liable 
to spring which would make the finished shaft fit for 
nothing but the scrap heap under the bench. After the 
turning of the crank pin is accomplished, the turning and 
facing of the web faces, both inside and outside is next 
done, and this is not as difficult as the turning of the rest 
of the shaft. After the turning operations are completed 
the shaft is taken out of the latlie and the projecting por- 
tions that were used for the centers in turning the crank 
pin are cut off ^\ith a hack saw. The shaft is then re- 
mounted in the lathe on the two lower centers and the 
ends of the shaft finished. This particular procedure 



Advanced Lathe Work 



181 



can be avoided by using a larger piece of stock and leav- 
ing enough on the end so that it can be cut off without 
making the finished shaft too short. By this is meant 
that the overall length of the crankshaft would come be- 
tween the two outer saw cuts shoA\Ti in Fig. 214 and the 
portions beyond that would be entirely superfluous and 
removed after the crank pin and web faces are turned. 
If a single-throw crankshaft is cast and it is desired 
to turn it down to diameter in the lathe, it will be neces- 
sary to proceed differently than when turning a shaft 
from solid steel stock. Fig. 216 will immediately show 
the reader how this work is done. The turning of the 
main portions of the shaft is accomplished in exactly the 



a 



i: 



ou 



a 






i 



o 



Fig, 2i6 — How a small crankshaft can be mounted for turning 

same manner employed in the finishing, of the crank- 
shaft previously described. It is necessary to make two 
small end plates for the turning of the crank pin, w^hich 
are used in place of the projections left on the end of 
the shaft cut from solid stock. The holes in these end 
plates are drilled so that they will pass over the end of 
the shaft snugly and they are further held in place by 
means of a small set screw. Further reinforcement is 
offered by using two wooden dowel pins placed as shown 
in the drawing of the small shaft mounted in the lathe 
(Fig. 216). The purpose of these Avooden pieces is to 
prevent the end plates from springing, which would prob- 
ably ruin the shaft if the mechanic was not aware of the 
fact. This not only prevents the end plates from spring- 



182 



Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 



ing, but it also prevents the shaft proper from being 
bent. 

The turning of a two-throw or 180-degree crankshaft 
from a solid piece of steel is not such an easy job as that 
of turning a small, single-throw shaft. The major por- 
tion of the steel from the original piece is removed by the 
same process as that employed in the making of the first 
crankshaft. Fig. 217 sho^vs the procedure followed out 





Fig. 217 — How a double throw crankshaft is cut from the rough 

for turning 

from the start to the fmish. It is, of course, necessar^^ 
to shift from the centers on one side to the centers on 
the other to turn the two crank pins. The positions of 
the centers for the turning of the crankshaft is sho^^^l in 
the illustration. After all the turning is accomplished, 
the finishing of the connecting portions of the crankshaft 
is done mth the grinding wheel and file. The mechanic 



Advanced Lathe Wo7'k 183 

should he careful to prevent the sliaft from slipping in 
his fingers when he is grinding, as the turned portion of 
the shaft is very apt to be brought into contact with the 
wheel and this certainly would not do it any particular 
good. 

If a double-throw, 180-degree crankshaft is being 
turned to diameter from a casting, the end plate at the 
right in Fig. 215 is employed. It will be seen tliat this 
plate is exactly the same as that used in turning the sin- 
gle-throw shaft, but it is made for a double-throw shaft, 
with the set screw placed in the center. It is well to have 
these end plates cast with the hubs on them, which pre- 
vents inaccuracy in tlie turning operation. It is a very 




D 



Fig. 218 — Method of making a built-up crankshaft 

easy matter to make a pattern for the plates and the 
castings may be made when the shaft is being cast. The 
end plates should be cast blank so that the holes can be 
drilled for the size shaft that they are to be used in con- 
nection with. A few of these plates can be kept in stock 
and used for shafts of various sizes. It vdW be under- 
stood that such end plates can only be employed with 
180-degree cranlvshafts. In order to turn 90-degree 
crankshafts, it is necessary to employ one of the end 
plates shown in Fig. 215. One of these plates is sho^^^l 
in place on a shaft. In using such plates it is well to 
reinforce the work with heavy dowel pins as done on the 



184 



Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 



smaller crankshaft. Some mechanics prefer to have 
pieces cast on the crankshaft which take tlie place of the 
end plates. After they serve their purpose they are cut 
off. This, however, is not a very economical method, al- 
though, from the standpoint of practicability, it may be 
much better than employing the more conventional type 
of end plates. 




Fig. 219 — Turning a small, single-throw crankshaft 



AVe will now turn our attention to built-up crank- 
shafts, which are much easier to produce than those that 
are turned to diameter on the lathe and therefore they 
are more apt to appeal to the mechanic who is not suffi- 
ciently expert in the use of the lathe to turn out the 
other type of shaft. Built-ujo .shafts, although not as 
durable as the solid type, are very suitable for ordinary 
purposes and if well made, they will hold up under con- 
siderable work. The writer has heard ot cases where 



Advanced Lathe Work 185 

built-up shafts were used in higli-power, high-speed flash 
steam engines and heki u^j under severe abuse and over- 
work for some time before finally succumbing. 

The crankshaft sho^oi in Fig. 218 is of the single-throw 
type and is made up from pieces of cold rolled steel stock. 
The square pieces are first cut to shape and finished up. 
Assuming that the shaft and crank pins are I/4 in. in 
diameter, i/4-in. holes are drilled in the flat pieces. These 
holes are then reamed out to exact size. It vnll be neces- 
sary to obtain a steel drill rod which is slightly oversize, 
from .001 to .002 being all that is necessary in this case. 
This means that the drill rod used should measure .251 
to .252 when put through the jaws of the micrometer. 




Fig. 220 — Method of making a double-throw, built-up crankshaft 

The drill rod is then forced through the V^-ui. holes in 
the square pieces and this can be done by placing the 
square pieces in the vise and giving the rod several hard 
blows A\ith a hammer. The piece for the crank pin is 
driven in place in the same manner. After this is done, 
four small holes are drilled in the square pieces and these 
pass through the center of the shaft and crank pin. 
These holes should be drilled with a No. 36 drill, and 
steel pins are driven in the holes and cut off. The super- 
fluous drill rod is then cut aAvay Avith a hack saw and all 
surfaces filed do^m flush. The shaft is now ready for 
brazing, Avhich is necessary to produce a piece of work 
that will hold up under hea^^A^ strain in actual operation. 



186 Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 

At the shaft end, the brazing spelter is applied to the 
outside of the webs and at bi^^c^fahk-pin end, the spelter 
is applied to the inside of tlie webs. A\lien this work is 
done, the shaft is finished with a file, by means of which 
the superfliions spelter is removed. Following this proc- 
ess, it may be necessary to mount the shaft between cen- 
ters on a lathe (Fig. 219) and turn up the inside Aveb 
faces and also round the ends of the web pieces if this is 
desired. If heavy crankshafts of the type sho\Am in Fig. 
218 are made, it is advisable to balance them up, making 
the webs longer and passing the shaft through the cen- 
ter of them. This prevents excessive vibration in a small 
engine which by no means adds to its life. 

The shaft sho^\Ti in Fig. 220 is made by the same 
method employed in producing the shaft previously de- 
scribed. This is a 90-degree shaft and it will be under- 
stood that any type can be produced by this method. 
After the shaft is assembled, the superfluous portions are 
cut away with a hack saw after which the brazing is 
done. In mounting the web pieces upon the shaft, ex- 
treme care must be taken to see that they are placed at 
exactly 90 degrees apart. If a 180-degree shaft is being 
made by this method, it will only be necessary to lay the 
shaft on a surface plate and see that all webs lie flat. 

In a fore-running part of this Chapter mention was 
made of the possibility of forcing small crankshafts out 
of alignment if means are not provided to resist the 
thrust of the lathe centers. This can be very easily done, 
and once a shaft is slightly bent it is a very difficult mat- 
ter to bring it back so that it will not -cause trouble Avhen 
it is mounted in the engine in connection with Avhich it 
is to be used. It is best to take the proper precautions 
at the start. AA'liile the small wooden dowel pins pre- 



Advanced Lathe Work 



\S'> 



viously described will suftice to lorevent the shaft from 
springing, if they are carefully put in place and cut to 
the proper length, it is best to emiiloy steel rods for the 
purpose. Such rods are generally called thrust bolts 
and they are made according to the following directions : 
The rods are first cut to the proper length — they should 
l)e made at least a half inch shorter than the space they 
are to fit into. Quarter-inch cold roll steel stock should 




Fig. 221 — Three types of crankshafts 

be used to make the rods if they are to be used in turn- 
ing model crankshafts. For larger shafts, larger stock 
should be used. Each end of the rods is threaded for a 
distance of at least two inches. A piece of hexagon steel 
stock about one inch long is then drilled and tapped to 
fit the rod. One of these large nuts is made for each end 
of the rod. After they are put in place on the rod, it mil 
be seen that by turning them back and forth, an adjust- 
able rod is obtained. This will enable the mechanic to 
insert the rod in its place and adjust it to the proper 



188 



Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 



''tightness.'^ It will be seen that tightening the nuts too 
much will be worse than a remedy as this will also cause 
the shaft to spring. The mechanic must use his gwti 




Fig. 222 — A four-throw crankshaft turned from the solid 

judgment in gauging the proper degree to which the nuts 
should be adjusted for accurate work. 

The crankshaft illustrated in Fig. 222 forms rather a 
difficult piece of lathe turning and the following outline 
will give the reader a very good idea of just how it is ac- 

o ; eyr- 




n 



i<--%- 



-— /V/6'^-->) 



-Jife'/j"-; 




□i 





Fig. 223 — The dimensions of the crankshaft shown in Fig. 222 

compiished. The stock required is a piece of cold roll 
steel 1% in. in diameter by 7l^ in. long. The extra length 
is used in mounting it in the lathe dog. 

First the stock is placed in the lathe chuck and the ends 
carefully faced off. Center holes are then drilled and the 
stock mounted between centers, driven with the lathe 
dog. When this is done a light cut is taken and the extra 



Advanced Lathe Work 189 

l/16th in. in diameter cut away bringing the stock to ex- 
actly 1-5/16 in. in diameter. This is done to make the 
stock perfectly true and' accurate in relation to the cen- 
ters. This done, the crankshaft is taken from the lathe, set 
uj) on V-blocks and the various centers for the eccentric 
parts are marked out. These centers will be seen by re- 
ferring to Fig. 223. First a surface gauge is adjusted so 
that. it mil scratch a line directly through the center of 
the stock. The stock is then turned around to exactly 
90 degrees and another line, at right angles to the first 
is draA\m through the center. In this particular crank- 
shaft there are two valve eccentrics and two crank pins. 
The crank pins are 180 degrees apart and the valve ec- 
centrics are also 180 degrees apart. The valve eccentrics 
and the crank pins are 90 degrees apart. To find the 
centers for both the crank pins and the valve eccentrics, 
a square is scratched on both ends of the stock as shoA\ai 
in Fig. 223. It will be well to mention here that both 
ends of the stock are marked and the same adjustment 
for the surface gauge can be used for each end. With 
this square drawn upon the ends of the shaft the centers 
for the various eccentric parts can be marked with a 
center punch at the points where the four lines of the 
square intersect the first two lines which were drawn 
90 degrees apart on the shaft. The various centers for 
the eccentric parts are then drilled with a centering drill. 
It mil be necessary to do this on a drill press or with the 
drill pad mounted in the lathe and the centering drill 
placed in the chuck. 

AVhen this work is completed the stock is replaced in 
the lathe and caused to revolve upon one of the crank- 
pin centers. With the stock revolving eccentrically, the 
cutting is started and the proper distance of the cutting 



190 Shoii Practice for Home Mechanics 

tool from the end of the stock can be found by the nse of 
the scale. The one eccentric is then turned to shape. 
AVhen this is completed the shaft is taken out of the latlie 
and mounted in the centers opposite to those just used. 
Then the other crank pin is turned. This accomplished, 
the crankshaft is again taken from between centers and 
mounted on one of the valve eccentric centers. This is 
turned and the shaft is again remounted on the opposite 
valve eccentric center and the second eccentric is turned. 
The shaft is finished by removing it and mounting it be- 

Infermec/iafe 
Gear 

, Lead Screw 




Spinc/fe' 
Fig. 224 — How the gears are arranged on the lathe for screw-cutting 

tween the original centers which are in the center of the 
stock. The central portions of the stock are then re- 
moved, leaving the crankshaft in the shape shown in 
Fig. 222. 

At this juncture it will be well to consider screw cut- 
ting. In referring to screw cutting in a previous chapter 
of this book, it was mentioned that screw cutting was ac- 
complished by causing the lathe carriage to travel along 
the bed of the lathe at a definite rate of speed by means 
of the lead screw and a train of gears connecting the 
lead screw A\dth the spindle of the lathe. A simple train 
of gears used for this purpose is shoA^m at Fig. 224. By 
using gears of various diameters it is possible to cause 
the lathe carriage to move at different speeds. The speed 



Advanced Lathe WorJ: 191 

at which the' lathe spindle moves determines the pitch of 
the thread; tlie faster the carria,2:e travels the coarser 
the threads will lie and the slower it travels the finer the 
threads will be. The intermediate gear, between the gear 
on the spindle of the lathe and the gear on the lead screw, 
does not influence the speed of the lead screw but merely 
acts as a transmitter of the motion. The proper speed 
is* arrived at by clioosing gears with the, proper ratio to 
be mounted upon the lead screw and the spindle. If a 
thread with a large pitch is desired a large gear is used 
upon the spindle and a small gear upon the lead screw 
and if a thread of a small pitch is desired a 'small gear 
is mounted ui)on the spindle and a large one upon the 
lead screw. The method of mounting the gears is differ- 
ent mth different lathes. Each manufacturer has his 
own particular method of arranging tlie gears and no 
definite set of i-ules can be given. If the mechanic will 
study his lathe and read his instruction book he will soon 
learn the method of putting tliem in place. In mount- 
ing the gears they should be made to mesh freely with- 
out binding and it will be found that tlie spifidle for one 
of the gears is adjustable so that the various combina- 
tions can be employed. 

There is a little brass index pinto on tlie side of each 
lathe which shows the necessary gears to cut the desired 
thread. The arrangement of a typical plate is shown in 
Fig. 225. If the mechanic refers to this plate when he 
has a thread to cut he cannot possibly go Avrong. The col- 
umns are headed "Thread,'^ "Spindle" and "Screw." 
The numbers in the "Thread" column refer to the pitch, 
running from 4 to 40, and the numbers under the "Spin- 
dle" column show the proper gear to use for each pitch. 
The number reallv refers to the number of teeth in the 



192 



Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 



HERCULES LATHE CO. 




Fig. 225 — Lathe Index Plate 



Advanced Lathe Work 193* 

gear. In the ''Screw" column, the numbers refer to the 
gear whicli is to be used upon the lead screw. If a thread 
with a pitch of 12 was to be cut, a gear with 32 teeth 
would be placed upon the spindle of the lathe and one 

,■60° 




Fig. 226 — The method of grinding a screw-cutting tool 

with 48 teeth would be placed upon the lead screw, with 
the intermediate gear placed between them. As before 
mentioned, the diameter of the intermediate gear is im- 
material as it is only used to transmit the motion between 
the lead screw and the spindle gears. 

The carriage is connected with the lead screw by the 
splined nut which was described in Chapter 5. The splined 




5" 



Fig. 227 — A gauge used in grinding a screw-cutting lathe tool 

nut is tightened about the lead sc-rew by a small handle 
on the lathe apron. Immediately the nut is tightened 
about the lead screw the carriage moves toward the head 
stock and if a thread-cutting tool is mounted in the tool 
post, threads can be cut. 

A thread-cutting tool is shown in Fig. 226 and if it is 
used to cut U. S. standard threads it must be ground at 
exactly 60 degrees. The little gauge shown in Fig. 227 
is used when grinding the tool. The point of the tool is 
ground until it mil just fit into the indentation at the end 
of the gauge. By holding the tool and gauge up to the 
light it is possible to get a very close fit. 



194 



Shop Practice for Home Mechmiics 



The tool is then placed in the tool post and adjusted so 
that it Mali be at exact riglit angles to the rod or work 
to be threaded. The method of adjusting the tool to the 
proper angle is sIiomii in Fig. 228. With the tool ad- 
justed properly the first cut is ready to be made and at 

'Work 




Fig. 228 — How the screw-cutting tool should be set in the lathe 

this point it is well to mention that a thread is not made 
with one single cut of the tool. The first cut should be 
very light, and with the splined nut loose and the carriage 
still, the cross feed is adjusted until the tool ^^dll just 
feed into the work lightly when the lathe carriage is ad- 
vanced. The split nut is tlien tightened and the carriage 




iVorA- 



Fig. 229 — The screw-cutting tool should be mounted at the exact 
center of the work 

will be thrown into motion. When the tool is advanced 
the proper distance where the thread is to end, the nut is 
loosened and tlie carriage run back to its starting point 
or the lathe can be thrown into reverse and the carriage 
will automatically travel back. Another light cut is then 
taken and still another if the thread is a large one. The 
number of cuts Avill depend entirely upon the pitch of 
the thread and the stock being cut. If a very fine thread 



Advanced Lathe Work 



195 



is being cut upon brass it may be necessary to take only 
two cuts. It would be advisable, however, to take more 
than two cuts on a piece of steel. The thread-cutting tool 
should always be placed at the exact center of the work 
as shown at Fig. 229, otherwise the thread will not be cut 
accurately. 



n,. I:, ,-3 



^^^ 



1- 



/ 



.^' 



Fig. 230^How the inside screw-cutting tool should be mounted 

Internal threads are made with what is kno\\m as an 
inside thread-cutting tool. Such a tool and its use is 
shown at Fig. 230. 

Oftentimes the mechanic has a thread which he desires 




Fig. 231 — A thread gauge 

to duplicate, and to do this he must know the pitch of 
the thread in order to make his proper gear selection. 
The little thread gauge sho^vn in Fig. 231 must be used 
in determining the pitch of the thread. The gauge is pro- 
vided with blades and each blade has teeth in it Avhich 
represent a screw with a certain pitch and the pitch is 
stamped on the side of each blade. 



CHAPTER VII 

Special Lathe Work 

Boring. long holes — Use of D-bits — Construction of D-bits — Mounting 
gun barrel for drilling — Use of D-bit in drilling gun barrel — 
Reamer to follow D-bit — Cutting key-way on the lathe without 
milling attachment — Construction of special drilling attachment 
for use on small lathe — Construction and use of overhead drive 
for small lathe — Construction of small milling attachment for use 
on home shop lathe — Milling without milling attachment — Use of 
various milling devices — Use of special reamers^ — Home-made, 
lathe tools for special purposes. 

There are many special jobs which can be performed 
on a lathe by the aid of a few simple tools which can eas- 
ily be made by the amateur mechanic. The tools de- 
scribed in the ensuing paragraphs will increase the 
"usefulness of the lathe very much and by their aid work 
can be done that could not be accomplished otherwise. 

The problem of boring long holes of small diameter 
on a lathe has always been a difficult one for the aver- 
age mechanic. The follomng notes Avill do much to lay 
bare the secret of the work and to enable the mechanic to 
proceed intelligently with the operation. 

For the sake of convenience, it is assumed that a .250 
hole is to be bored in a model gun barrel measuring 6 in. 
The barrel of the gun is of cold rolled steel and the bore 
must not only be accurate in size, but perfectly concen- 
tric in relation to the outer diameter. 

To bore a hole of this nature, it is necessary to make 
two special tools. The tool commonly used is a D-bit. 

196 



Special Lathe Work 197 

Such bits were used long before the conventional fluted 
drill came into use. It is interesting to know that a 
D-bit, if properly made, will drill a hole with greater 
accuracy than a fluted drill. Of course, the D-bit is not 
able to drill a hole as quickly as a fluted drill, and, for 
this reason it is not used connnercially. 

A D-bit is sho^\Ti in Fig. 232 and its extreme simplicity 
will be noticed. It must be very accurately made in order 
to do its work effectively. In fact, the accuracy required 
is so great that a few thousandths of an inch make a con- 
siderable amount of difference and may render the tool 
entirely useless. To make a .250 hole, it will first be 
necessary to make a D-bit that will drill a hole slightly 



3 



© 



Fig. 232 — A D-bit, showing its construction 

under this diameter — about 7/32 in. The general pro- 
portion of the D-bit is an important matter. The length 
of the complete tool will depend entirely upon its diam- 
eter. The length of the forward or cutting portion of 
the tool should be approximately three times the diam- 
eter, while the shank should be about six times the diam- 
eter. The plain surface or cutting edge must be cut dia- 
metrically correct. Exactly one-half of the rod from 
which the D-bit is made must be cut away. If more than 
one-half is cut, the tool mil bore a hole under size, and 
if more than one-half is left it will bore a hole over size. 
In the case of the tool being under size, the shank mil 



198 



Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 



not be able to follow and great trouble will be experi- 
enced. The shank of the tool should always be slightly 
tapered, and in actual practice it will be found that from 
.001 to .002 of an inch Avill suffice. The cutting edge 
should be ground to an angle of approximately 10 de- 
grees, although a little more or less will not seriously 
impair its efficiency. The cutting action of the tool is 
shown clearly in Fig. 233. The top of the shank is made 





Fig. 233 — The action of a D-bit 



slightly flat to allow the escape of air and to provide for 
the introduction of the lubricating substance during cut- 
ting. The shank of the tool is drilled out to receive a 
piece of drill rod with a forced fit. Two pins are then 
driven through the shank and the drill rod and ground off 
flush with the surface. An additional security against 
possible shearing of the pins is made by the application 
of a few drops of solder on the outer surfaces of the 
D-bit and drill rod. The drill rod upon which the D-bit 
is mounted should not be any longer than necessary, as 
the greater the length the greater the tendency will be to 



Special Lathe Work 199 

twist. It must be remembered that it requires consider- 
able resistance on the part of the rod to overcome seri- 
ous inaccuracy through twisting. 

A second D-bit must be made to follow the first one. 
This should be capable of drilling a hole .248. The con- 
struction is identical. After the second D-bit has ac- 
complished its purpose, the hole is reamed out to exact 
size with a .250 reamer. 

Having considered the tool and its construction, atten- 
tion will now be diverted to its use on the lathe. The 
D-bit is held in a special holder which fits in the tool 
post. This holder will be noticed in Fig. 234. It is made 
from a piece of cold rolled steel drilled and slotted as 
shown. The bolt on the top is used to draw the jaws of 

/Bincf/ng' Screw 




Fig. 234 — A special holder for the D-bit 

the tool together to tightly hold the D-bit. The bottom 
portion of the holder is threaded while the clearance hole 
is made in the top so that the parts can be drawn to- 
gether when the top screw is tightened. If the gun barrel 
to be drilled is no longer than 6 in. it may be possible to 
hold it in the chuck in the ordinary manner, providing 
the holloAV spindle of the lathe used will acconmiodate 
it. Great care should be taken to see tliat the barrel of 
the gun is running absolutely true in the chuck before 
drilling is proceeded with. The D-bit must also be set 
accurately and perfectly parallel to the axis of the gun 
barrel. Having accomplished this, the drilling is pro- 
ceeded mth. The feed is accomplished by putting the 



200 Shop Practice for Home Meclianics 

l)ack center of the lathe upon the center of the drill rod 
which holds the D-bit. 

There is one precaution necessary in using the D-bit 
and that is "Do Not Be in a Hurry." The D-hit is very 
slow in its cutting and it must not be forced too much. 
A very liberal supply of lubricating oil should also be 
applied to the tool at regular intervals. The tool should 
be withdrawn occasionally to bring out the chips. If 
the drill has been made accurately the mechanic need not 
feel anxious abbut the accuracy of the hole it will make. 
On the other hand, if the drill has been made inaccu- 
rately, accurate results can by no means be expected. 

After the 7/32-in. hole has been made, the D-bit with a 
diameter of .248 is used, and, if accurately made, it will 
f ollovr the hole previously made perfectly. A liberal sup- 
ply of lubricating oil should be used when performing 











'/4"Bore.^^ 




'/////,'///'/ '///. .' • ) 






==— = 


__ 


< ' — 


-'. -- " :." 




mm^^>z^:Ay^Zit^^^^^^ 


^ . 


_ ^"- 


' ' ' 




' sJ 




*■ 


4. 













Fig. 235 — A gun barrel to be drilled out with the D-bit 

this job. When this is done, a 14-in. reamer should be 
used, and it may be necessary for the mechanic to make 
this reamer unless he can purchase a special one ^\\W\ a 
small shank. In case it is necessary to purchase this 
reamer, it can be tapered to a point where it will be 
possible to drill out the shank and insert the pieces of 
the drill rod by the same method as Avas used with the 
D-bit. However, making the reamer for this job is not 
as difficult as it may appear. A tool can be made that 
will cut flutes horizontallv and the back gears of the lathe 



Special Lathe Work 201 

can be marked with a piece of chalk to take the place of 
a dividing head. For instance, if six flutes are desired, 
the 66 gear can be marked out every eleventh tooth. 

D-bits of small diameter are more difficult to handle 
than those of larger size owing to the tendency of the 
drill rod to twist, and for this reason they are impractical 
to use for drilling holes over 6 in. in length. 

To make this treatment complete it will be assumed 
that we have a hole to bore about 8 in. long in a tapered 
gun barrel % in. at the small end and 1 in. at the large 
end. To use a D-bit on a job like this, it will be neces- 
sary to employ a center rest owing to the fact that the 

.'-P/ns—-., 



\ . • ■ • ■ • ::•••• 



Fig. 236 — Method of holding the D-bit to the rod 

hollow spindle of the amateur's lathe will not accommo- 
date a piece of stock of this diameter. Therefore, one 
end of the barrel is mounted in the chuck and the pro- 
truding end is mounted in the center rest. Patience 
should be exercised in seeing that the barrel is running 
absolutely true before the drilling is started. Other- 
wise, only disappointment will result, as the finished hole 
will be seriously out of true. When this has been accom- 
plished, the drilling can be proceeded mth in the usual 
manner. 

If a long hole must be bored in a piece of stock that 
will be accommodated by the hollow spindle of the lathe, 
it will be possible to mount it in the chuck in the ordinary 
manner and to hold the drill rod that supports the D-bit 
in the center rest in place of the stock being drilled. This 
will tend to correct any inaccuracy that may result from 



202 



Shop Practice for Home Mechayiics 



the drill rod being slightly bent, and this is very apt to 
be the ease if a rod of nnnsnal length is employed. 

Keyways can be cnt on a lathe with very little trouble 
by mounting a special ground tool sidewise in the tool 



Shaff- 



Tail Sfock- 



^Tool 



Fig. 237 — Position of the tool for key-way cutting on the lathe 

post and running it along the side of the shaft which is 
held between centers on the lathe. This will be made 
clear by referring to Figs. 237 and 238. As will be seen 
the tool used is similar to a parting tool, the only dif- 
ference being that a lip is ground on it. The shaft in 



Fig. 238 — A hole drilled at the end of the cut will automatically 
remove the chip 

which the ke^avay is to be cut is mounted between cen- 
ters in the regular way and the back gears of the lathe 
are throMTi in to prevent it from turning. A hole is 
made at the point where the keyway is to end. This is 
done so that the chip at the end of the cut will drop off. 
When the tool is mounted securely in place its edge is 
brought to the surface of the shaft and a very light cut 
taken at the point where the hole is drilled. This is fol- 



Special Lathe Work 203 

lowed by several more light cuts until the tool has cut a 
groove sufficiently deep to guide it in further cutting. 
When this is done heavier cuts can be taken without 
danger. The point of the cutting tool should be lubri- 
cated mth oil during the operation. If a special type 
groove is desired it may be necessary to use an especially 
made half center for the lathe so that the cutting tool 
may be adjusted properly to make the cut. 




Fig. 239 — A drilling attachment for a shop lathe. This can also be 
used for grinding 



A very useful addition to the lathe is shown in Fig. 
239. This is a drill spindle made especially to be at- 
tached to the cross slide of a small lathe. This little 
spindle is provided with a chuck which takes drills up to 
14 in- in diameter and by its use many operations can 
be performed which would be impossible with the ordi- 
nary drill chuck used on the lathe. One of its uses is 
drilling holes in concentric circles. It mil be seen that 
it consists of a castino: machined to take brass bushings 



204 



Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 



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Special Lathe Work 



205 



in which runs a shaft carrying a chuck at one end and a 
pulley at the opposite end. A detail drawing of the de- 
vice is given at Fig. 240 so that the mechanic can set 
about to make such a tool for use on his lathe. If the 



E 



z 



a) 



/Drivinq 
/.' Belt 



Drilling^ • 
Spindh \ 




U^ 



'wef^hf 



Fig. 241 — The arrangement of an over-head attachment for a 

bench lathe 



206 



Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 



drill chuck is removed and a grinding wheel placed upon 
the shaft the attachment can be used for grinding pur- 
poses and it will serve for both internal and external 
work. There is one caution necessarj^ in using the grind- 
ing attachment for the lathe: The lathe should be care- 
fully brushed off each time the device is used as the 
abrasive particles which break off the wheel are very apt 
to find their way into some vital part of the lathe and 
cause great harm. 




Wef^hf t 



To Laths 
Flywheel 



Fig. 242 — rDetails of the over-head attachment 



The drilling spindle for the lathe must have some 
means oi driving it. It would be difficult to use an elec- 
tric motor owing to tlie fact that the device travels back 
and forth and the tool rest and belting arrangements 
would become rather complicated. What is called an 
overhead gear for use in driving such attachments is 
shown in Fig. 241 and in detail at Fig. 242. The simplic- 
ity of the little device can be appreciated and very little 



Special Lathe Work 



207 



work is necessary to assemble it for use. If it is mounted 
on the ceiling the proper distance above the lathe it will 
be found possil)le to cause the drill spindle to move back 
and forth the full distance without slipping- off. Tlie 
belt used can be made of cat gut or thin strips sewed to- 
gether from pieces similar to those used in lacing belts. 
It is possible to do milling on a lathe, provided a mill- 




Fig. 243 — A milling attachment in use 

ing attachment is either purchased or made to mount 
upon the cross slide. A milling attachment is really 
nothing more or less than a vise mounted upon the cross 
slide to hold the work, and Avhat is known as a milling- 
cutter is placed in the chuck or head spindle of the lathe. 
Each lathe manufacturer is generally able to furnish 
small milling cutters with standard Morse tapers so that 
they will feed into the head spindle of the lathe. The vise 



m 



Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 



or milling attachment must be so arranged that it can 
be revolved upon an axis at least 180 degrees. A milling 
attachment will be seen in Fig. 243. 

A very simple home-made milling attachment is shoMT;i 
at Fig. 244. This was made by an amateur mechanic for 
his lathe and the writer is informed that it has proven 
very satisfactory. A close examination of the attach- 
ment will reveal the fact that the compound rest of the 




Fig. 244 — A home-made milling attachment in use 

lathe is used as part of the attachment itself. The com- 
pound rest is supported by a special angle plate, which, 
in turn, is mounted on the cross slide of the lathe in place 
of the compound rest. This allows the angle plate to be 
set at an angle with the cross slide as Avell as allowing 
the vertical slide (compound rest) to be adjusted simi- 
larly with reference to the angle plate. The Avork is sup- 
ported on the compound rest either by clamping it to 



Special Lathe Work 209 

same or by a vise and table. It will be understood that 
such an attachment would have to be especially made for 
the lathe upon which it was to be used. Two feeds are 
possible, one vertically by means of the ball crank at the 
top of the compound rest and crosswise by means of the 
cross slide. 

To do milling successfully the lathe should be ad- 
justed to the proper speed and in the case of milling 
steel the speed of the lathe should not be greater than 
150 R.P.M. Brass, however, can be cut faster than this 
and a greater speed is reconunended. 

Simple little jobs in milling can oftentimes be done 
mthout the use of a milling attachment. For instance, if 






1 — r: 



• Fig. 245 — A milling cutter mounted on a mandrel 

a short length of rack is to be made, a milling cutter can 
be mounted on an arbor and held in the chuck of the 
lathe Avhile the piece of stock from which the rack is to 
be made is held in the tool post of the lathe. This mil 
be made clear by referring to Fig. 245. The stock must 
have enough body to it to resist bending when the cutter 
starts to cut the groove. It is possible to use a thick 
piece of stock and grind or file it down to shape, after 
the cutting is done. This prevents it from bending. An- 
other alternative is to support the stock being cut with a 
piece mounted in the tool post underneath it. It is not 
practical to cut long racks in this manner owing to the 



210 Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 

fact that the stock would spring when the cutting took 
place too great a distance from the tool post. Small 
milling cutters with various-shaped faces can he pur- 
chased from tool manufacturers and it will be found that 
they can be used many times for cutting grooves, etc. 
The arbor upon which Ihe cutter is mounted should have 
a diameter slightly smaller than the hole in the center of 
the cutter so that when mounted in place it will not have 
a tendenc}^ to move through the want of support at the 
center. 

A special reamer, which can be made by the mechanic, 
is shown at Fig. 246. Such a reamer can be used in con- 
nection with the D-bit described in a previous part of 
this Chapter. 

B/ank Stock-. ■Cuffing Edges.^ 




Wood-' 'Screw 

Fig. 246 — A reamer made especially to follow a D-bit 

Oftentimes it is necessary to finish a long bore 
smoothly and the average amateur mechanic is generally 
at a loss as to the most practical method of procedure. 
In the case of a long hole such as the bore of a model 
gun barrel, the use of a reamer is rendered difficult and, 
therefore, it is quite practical to make a special tool that 
will perform the work accurately. The drilling of a hole 
of a small diameter with what is known as a D-bit was 
described in a forerunning part of this Chapter. 

The improvised reamer is shown in Fig. 246. To make 
this, a piece of stock is first mounted in the lathe and 
turned down as illustrated in the drawing. Care should 
be taken to turn the larger portion of the tool to exact 



Special Lathe Work 211 

diameter — that will be the diameter which the finished 
bore is to be. It is not advisable to take a cut over a 
fiftieth of an inch with this tool. Having turned the 
steel stock to the proper diameter, it is ground or ma- 
chined flat as illustrated. The machining should leave 
the cutting portion of the tool about i/g in. thick. When 
this is done, the holes are marked out and drilled and 
tapped for the flat-head machine screws. It will then be 
necessary to turn a piece of hard wood down to a 
diameter a little smaller than the steel. This piece 
of hard wood is then split so that when the halves 
are placed on the flat portion of the steel cutter 
they will form a perfect circle. The wooden halves are 
then drilled out so that the holes will correspond with 
those on the steel portion of the tool. The holes are 
counter-sunk so that the heads of the screws will be at 
least 1/32 in. below the surface. Before the wooden 
halves are finally put in place, the flat portion of the 
tool is put in a vise and mth a smooth file the edges are 
slightly tapered. In doing this, the mechanic should be 
careful not to destroy the original diameter of the tool, 
but merely incline one edge until it just meets the oppo- 
site edge. This is done in opposite directions on each 
side of the tool as will be noticed by a glance at the 
dra^^^ng. Having finished this, the tool is heated to mid- 
dle straw color and tempered. The wooden halves are 
then placed on the tool and with the exception of the 
extension rod upon which the tool is mounted, it is ready 
for cutting. The extension rod should fit into a hole in 
the shank of the cutting tool and be fixed there with a 
steel pin. The extension rod will depend, of course, en- 
tirely upon the length of the bore that the tool is to be 
used in and it should not be any longer than is necessary. 



212 



Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 



The results obtained by the use of such a tool depend 
entirely upon how it is handled in the lathe. It should 
be inserted very easily and advanced into the bore very 
slowly, well wetted with cutting compound or soapy 
water. 

A variety of home-made tools is shown in Fig. 247. 
These are tools for special purposes on the lathe and can 
be made by the amateur mechanic. In the group will be 
found special reamers, arboring tools and running down 
cutters. An arboring tool is shown at Fig. 248. Such a 
tool is used in making a cut similar to that shown in the 
insert. It will be necessary to provide such a tool mth 




Fig. 247 — A number of different cutters for use on a lathe 

a pin and a hole a little larger than the diameter of this 
pin is first drilled in the work. The pin revolves in this 
hole and thereby keeps the arboring tool on center. Such 
an arboring tool can be made from a piece of tool steel 
turned to the proper diameter and the cutting edges or 
notches filed in. When this is done the tool can be hard- 
ened and mounted upon the arbor. It M^ill be impossible 
to drill deep holes with such a device. 

A running down cutter is shown at Fig. 249. This is 
used to cut down the diameter of rods when repetition 



Special Lathe Work 



213 



work is being done. By its use both great speed and ac- 
curacy are possible. The nse of the tool is sho^Mi in Fig. 
250. It is. possible to remove as mnch as 50 per cent of 
the stock with such a simple little cutter. 




'Centering Pin 




Surface fo 
'be faced 



Fig. 248 — A home-made arboring tool 

The home mechanic can easily make his own running 
down cutter by obtaining the steel stock and turning it 
down to the proper diameter. The center is then drilled 
out mth the correct sized drill and the cutting edges made 




Fig. 249 — A small running-down cutter that finds many uses 

with a file. In producing these care should be taken to 
see that they all have the same rake. Otherwise the tool 
will not cut accurately. When the cutting edges or 
notches have been filed in the drill should be hardened. 
When it becomes dull it is possible to restore its cutting 
efficiency by the use of a small hand stone. 



u 





Fig. 250 — How a running-down cutter cuts 



CHAPTER VIII 

Grinding Operations 

Grinding and polishing head^Choosing small grinder for shop use — 
Speed for grinding work — Proper speed for polishing work — 
Driving the grinding head — Abrasive wheels — Physical charac- 
teristics of abrasive wheels and abrasives — Explanation of grit 
— Grade — Bond — Special grades — Choosing wheels for different 
work — Wheel faces — Precautions in mounting wheels — Testing 
wheels before mounting — Maintaining wheel faces — Restoring 
wheel faces — Dressing wheels — Simple wheel dresser — Grinding 
— Lapp grinding — Use of the lathe as a lapp grinder — Abrasive 
paper — Abrasive cloth — Lapp board — Simple grinding appliances 
— Abrasive powders — Abrasive grains — Use of powders and grains 
— Buffing — Buffing materials. 

Abrasive wheels and material are widely used to-day 
in the industrial Avorld and special machines and ap- 
pliances are made for various operations snch as cylin- 
drical grinding, lap grinding, surface grinding and in- 
ternal grinding. Owing to the fact that none of these 
special machines vdW be found in the small home shop the 
author will not describe their use. A small grinding 
liead provided with several abrasive wheels of differ- 
ent grits together with a few hand stones and abrasive 
cloth is about all the home mechanic needs in his work. 
All these materials can be purchased for a few dollars. 
The information imparted in this Chapter ^dll deal with 
a simple abrasive equipment especially for the small shop 
and with which many different operations can be per- 
formed not only with increased speed but with greater 
accuracy than is obtainable by older methods. The mone- 
tary outlay for the little equipment to be described is 
small compared with its usefulness. 

214 



Grinding Operations 



215 



Probably the most important tool of the abrasive 
equipment is a small grinding and polishing head. A 
very suitable little polishing and grinding head for use 
in the small shop is shown in Fig. 251. This can be pur- 
chased on the open market for about $4.00 and consider- 
ing its importance it is indeed very cheap at this price. 
For those who wish to construct a grinding head, the 



;Tapered Spindle 







Chuck-^ 

i 



m 



^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ 



Fig. 251 — A small grinding head for shop use. This is a power-driven 

machine 

author has designed and made a very suitable type which 
is described in Chapter XIII. The little machine shown 
in Fig. 251 should be belted to a 1/16 H.P. motor, and if 
possible a flat belt should be used. The traction of such 
a belt is far superior to a round belt and therefore more 
poAver is delivered to the machine by tlie motor. The 
pullej^ on the small grinder sho\ATi is so designed that 
either a flat or round belt can be used. The motor used 
in dri^ang the grinding head should be one capable of re- 
volving at least 2000 R.P.M. If it is impossible to obtain 



216 Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 

a motor with this speed, one of a lower speed can be used 
and a large pulley put npon its shaft. If a motor with a 
speed of 1000 is obtained, a pulley twice .the size of that 
used on the grinding head should be placed upon the 
motor shaft, giving a ratio of 2:1 so that the speed of 
the grinding head will be about 2000 R.P.M. This speed 
is by no means necessary for all work but it will be found 
that the higlier the speed is for bufhng operations the 
better the result will be and a speed of 5000 R.P.M. would 
not be too great. However, unless some means of adjust- 
ing the speed is used, this speed could not be obtained 
owing to the fact that it is too high to use for ordinary 
purposes and therefore could not be used for all opera- 
tions performed on the grinding head. 

Small grinding heads of the type shown generally have 
a shaft about % in. in diameter and therefore the grind- 
ing wheel which is to be used upon it must have an arbor 
made for this size shaft. Suitable small wheels for use 
on such grinders are made by all abrasive manufacturers 
and it will not be found difficult to purchase them in 
various grits and grades with the proper sized arbor. If 
the arbor is not of the proper size, but too large, it mil 
be found extremely difficult to mount the wheel so that it 
will revolve concentrically with the shaft. A large arbor 
can be remedied l)y turning up a small lirass bushing on 
the lathe to fit in the arbor. The bushing can then be 
drilled out so that it vnll fit over the shaft nicely. In 
making a bushing for a grinding wheel it should have a 
loose fit in the center of the wheel and it should not be 
forced when put in place. If it is forced, the wheel is 
very apt to break in two. 

Before going into more detail concerning suitable 
abrasive wheels to be used on the little grinder described. 



Grinding Operations 217 

it will be well to say a few words concerning the physi- 
cal characteristics of grinding wheels in general so that 
the mechanic may be able to choose his wheels intelli- 
gently and to know the best wheel for different classes 
of work. The little wlieels used on this grinder 
are cheap and therefore the average mechanic can well 
afford to have a small assortment on hand. 

"Wheels are mannfactnred with various grits, grades 
and bonds.. The "grit" of a wheel is the size of the 
abrasive particles which go to make it np. If a wheel is 
80 grit, 80 signifies tliat the abrasive particles which make 
np the wheel are just able to pass through a screen hav- 
ing 80 meshes to the square inch. A wheel in 20 grit, for 
instance, Avould be a very coarse wheel and a wheel of 
200 grit would be very fine. 

The "bond" of a wheel is the substance that binds the 
abrasive particles into a solid mass. Various bonding 
substances are used. Certain fusible ^dtrifying clays are 
used. These clays are mixed with abrasive particles, 
pressed into shape under hydraulic pressure and placed 
in a vitrifying kiln where fusion of the clays takes place, 
resulting in a hard matrix Avhich holds the abrasive par- 
ticles together. Vitrified wheels are widely used for va- 
rious purposes. Silicate wheels are bonded by silicate 
of soda which has a viscid, tacky nature and which, when 
dehydrated, forms a solid mass. The abrasive particles 
are mixed with the silicate of soda and after being shaped 
are placed in a baking oven where dehydration takes 
place. Other bonds are used such as shellac and rubber, 
but their use in the industrial field is limited to very spe- 
cial processes and for this reason they will not be con- 
sidered. 

The bond in an abrasive wheel is an extremely im- 



218 Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 

portant consideration and its nature either contributes 
or detracts from the efficiency of the wlieel. If the bond 
is too hard for the work that the wheel is doing the abra- 
sive particles cannot break away from their setting rap- 
idly enough and they therefore remain in place until 
they become very dull. On the other hand, if the bond is 
too soft the particles lose their connection with the wheel 
and fall off before their sharpness has disappeared. In 
the first case, great friction will be developed and the 
cutting efficiency of the wheel will be considerably re- 
duced. In the second case, the wheel Avill cut freely and 
easily but will wear away very rapidly. 

For general shop use the writer recommends the fol- 
lowing wheels and the mechanic will do well to purchase 
them. 

Carborundum, vitrified, grade I, grit 50. 

Aloxite, vitrified, grade D, grit 90. 

Aloxite, vitrified, grade J, grit 120. 

Carborundum, vitrified, grade 0-P, grit 80. 

Aloxite, vitrified, grade MO, grit 40. 

It must be understood that Carborundum and Crys- 
tallon are chemically the same substance, but with a dif- 
ferent trade name. They are both carbide of silicon 
corresponding to the chemical formula SiC. 

Very small wheels (from i/^ to II/2 inches in diameter) 
of very fine grit are often found very useful. These are 
commonly known as jeweler's wheels and they leave a 
finely finished surface iipon the article being ground. 
Owing to their fine grit, however, very little metal can 
be removed unless a great amount of time is spent in 
grinding, and they are especially adaptable for real deli- 
cate Avork. These small wheels are manufactured with 
very small arbors and therefore it is impossible to mount 



Grinding Operations 



219 



them upon the grinding head in the usual manner. If the 
grinding head is provided Avith a little chuck on its spin- 
dle, it is possible to use the little kink illustrated at Fig. 
252. A machine screw is placed in the arbor of the wheel 
and the wheel is clamped to it by a nut which holds the 
A\'lieel between it and the head of the screw. The pro- 
truding end of the screw is then placed in the chuck of 
the grinding head. 

It is possible to obtain wheels with different-shaped 
faces. By the face of the wheel is meant the periphery. 



,Wcr5/ier 









W: 


■ 




1 


y 


i 




N 


jf--'' 



*^ Screw 



Jewe/lers 
" Wheel 



Fig. 252 — Mounting a very small grinding wheel in a small drill chuck 



A V2-iii- fac6 would mean a wheel i/^ in. wide. Wheels 
are made with flat, round and sharp or beveled faces. 
Many times the wheels with odd-shaped faces are useful 
in certain work. For instance, if it is desired to grind 
a groove out the round-faced wheel can be successfully 
used. 

It will be found that the little grinder illustrated in 
Fig. 251 will not be able to stand up for heav}^ grinding 
such as finishing heavy, rough castings, etc. However, 
the grinder described in Chapter XIII will he found suit- 
able for heavy work. In the event the mechanic does not 
wish to make the grinder described in Chapter XIII, he 
may purchase a small hand grinder similar to that de- 
picted at Fig. 253 for $4 or $5. Such machines are com- 
monly known as bench grinders and they are provided 



220 



Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 



with a small clamp by means of wliicli they are held to 
the bench. The disadvantage of using such a grinder is 
that it is necessary to use one hand to drive the machine 
and one to hold the work. In most cases it is quite neces- 




Fig. 253 — A hand-driven bench grinder 



sary to hold the work Avith both hands in order to guide 
it properly. Unless someone turns the Avheel it is quite 
impossible to grind properly by its use. The ingenious 
worker, however, could easily work up a method of driv- 
ing the wheel by power. It would also be necessary to 
take off the handle and replace it with a pulley. The 
motor used to drive the machine should be of the low- 
speed variety and it will be necessary to use a very small 
pulley upon its shaft and a large pulley upon the grinder. 
This is necessary, owing to the fact that these grinders 



Grinding Operations 221 

are geared up very high so that the wheel will reach a 
high speed when turned by hand. Wheels used on bench 
grinders are generally about 5 in, to 8 in. in diameter with 
a 1-in. face. Of course, it is possible to use different- 
sized wheels on the grinder if they have the proper-sized 
arbor. 

Mechanics who have large, power-driven, grinding 
heads in their shop should take great care in mounting 
the wheels upon the spindle. At high speed, grinding 
wheels often burst without warning and men have often 
been killed by being struck with a flying fragment. The 
centrifugal force on the periphery of a grinding wheel 
when running at high speed is tremendous and when the 
Avheel bursts it causes the fragments to travel a ': a very 
great velocity. Wheels should fit freely on the spindle 
and should never be forced on. The larger wheels often 
have a lead bushing and if this bushing fits too snugly on 
the spindle and the bearing of the grinding wheel be- 
comes too hot, the heat will be communicated to the lead 
bushing and in time the bushing will expand. The co- 
efficient of cubical expansion of lead is somewhat high 
and therefore its expansion will bring considerable pres- 
sure to bear upon the arbor of the wheel. If this pres- 
sure becomes great enough the wheel will burst and the 
pieces fly from the shaft. Before a wheel is mounted on 
the spindle it should be tapped very lightly with some 
metallic tool. If it gives a clear, distinct "ring" it can 
be mounted without fear. However, if it gives a flat 
note when struck a light blow it should not be mounted 
upon the grinding head and a careful examination will 
reveal a crack in it at some point. 

As a further assurance against possible breakage, 
wheels should never be run above their rated surface 



222 Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 

velocity. Wheels are manufactured for different sur- 
face velocity, high and low, and before they leave the 
factory they are tested at their operating velocity. Be- 
yond this velocity the manufacturer will not guarantee 
them and it is not safe to operate them beyond this stated 
velocity. 

After continued use the profile of a grinding wheel 
becomes irregular. It is restored by a j^rocess called 
dressing. It is impossible to do careful work on a wheel 
that is badly worn. Manufacturers of abrasive wheels 
put on the market small wheel dressers which are used 
in bringing grinding wheels back to a workable condition. 
These dressers generally consist of several steel wheels 
with teeth in their periphery which revolve in a suitable 
cast-iron holder. To use the tool the steel wheels are 
brought into contact with the face of the revolving grind- 
ing wheel and though the wheels are much softer than the 
abrasive wheels they cause the wheel to wear away very 
rapidly. A good substitute for such a wheel dresser can 
be found in a piece of an old broken wheel. When this 
is brought in contact with the revolving wheel it will 
turn it down very nicely and the writer has found that 
this really works more satisfactorily than the more ex- 
pensive type of wheel dresser. This process is also good 
for a glazed wheel or a wheel that has become filled ut) 
A^dth softer metals. 

The lathe can be used as a lapp grinder by mounting a 
wooden disc (Fig. 254) upon the surface plate. Over 
this wooden disc a circular piece of abrasive cloth is 
glued. Abrasive cloth and paper can be obtained in va- 
rious grades and grits. The mechanic should have some 
very fine, medium and coarse grit abrasive cloth and 
paper on hand at all times. Such paper and cloth are 



Grinding Operations 



:23 



produced in standard sheets, 9 x 11. The circular piece 
to use on the wooden disc can be cut froni such a sheet 
with a sharp knife by laying the disc upon the sheet and 
running around the periphery with a knife. A thin ap- 
plication of carpenter's glue can be used to hold the 
abrasive clotli to the surface of the wooden disc. Paper 
should not be held by carpenter 's glue, owing to the fact 
that it cannot be easily removed as it does not have the 
strength of abrasive cloth, and it is assumed that the 



Surface Plate 




Fig. 254 — Abrasive cloth mounted on a lathe face plate 

worker does not wish to cut a wooden disc each time he 
wishes to renew his grinder. 

It will be necessary to use a suitable ta])le with such 
a grinding disc. This table is made to hold the work 
being ground. It will be an easy matter to design and 
build a small table which will clamp to the cross slide of 
the lathe. The table should be perfectly flat and ar- 
ranged so that it will be at exact right angles to the sur- 
face of the disc. In mounting it, it should be placed so 
that its edge Avill be at the center of the grinding disc. 

Such a little grinding disc has a multitude of purposes 
and the Avriter has found it extremely useful in finishing 
small parts, etc. If it is desired to produce a flat sur- 
face on a small casting or piece of stock it can be readily 
done with this simple little device. AVhen fine paper is 



224 



Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 



used on tlie disc it is possible to produce a very accurate 
surface. 

Another very simple little attachment for a grinding 



Groove 




'■■—Ends of Abrasive 
paper bent over 
fo fif in groove. 
Wooden Cylinder 

Fig' 255 — Mounting abrasive paper or cloth on a small wooden 
cylinder for use in the lathe 

head is shown in Fig. 255. This is a small cylinder of 
wood, on the surfaces of which abrasive cloth or paper 
is held by cutting a slot lengthwise of the surface of the 
cylinder, into which the ends of the abrasive cloth or 




Fig. 256 — A simple lapp board 

paper are forced. By passing a bolt through the center 
of this cylinder it may be held in the chuck of the lathe, 
or, if it is not too long, it can be drilled out to fit the 
spindle of the grinding head. To give an instance of the 
use of such a device, the writor once had a dozen carbon 
brushes which had to be used on a commutator 2i/^ in. 



Grinding Operations 



225 



in diameter. The brushes had square ends and there- 
fore it was necessary to machine them so that their ends 
would conform to the shape of tlie commutator upon 
which they w^ere to be used. A cylinder 21/^ in. was 
turned up on the lathe from a good piece of spruce and 
the abrasive cloth affixed to its surface. A rest or table 
was then made and the brushes were brought in contact 
with the abrasive cloth at the exact center of the cylin- 



F/ns Grit Clofh or Paper 



Coars e Grif Clofh or Paper 



-Wooden Sfrip 



Winged Nuf' 



Fig' 257 — Details of the lapp board 

der. The ends were then concaved so that they fitted the 
commutator upon which they were to be employed. 
There are many other uses to which these little cylinders 
can be put. 

What is known as a lapp board is shown in Figs. 256 
and 257. This is merely a board upon which two strips of 
abrasive cloth or paper is held flatly. By means of the 
wooden strips at the end, which are held in place by 
winged nuts, the abrasive cloth or paper can be readily 
put in place or removed. The little board is used in pol- 
ishing or grinding flat surfaces. If the Avork is held with 
the fingers and oscillated rapidly back and forth on the 
surface of the abrasive cloth with a slight pressure it 
will be found that very flat surfaces can be produced. 



226 Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 

One side of the board should have cloth of a very fine 
grit and the other side slionld be of coarser grit. 

A variety of abrasive powders and grains should be 
kept for use. Abrasive grains run in grit from 12 to 
about 200; 12 being very coarse and 200 quite fine. 
Grains be^^ond 150 are called powders and they are gen- 
erally graded by floating them on water. The writer 
would advise the mechanic to purchase a few ounces of 
No. 50, 100 and 150 grains, and what is known as FF 
powder (Carborundum). The FF powder, which is a 
very fine flour, can be used for the process of lapping. 
Lapping is generally used for hardened steel only, but 
it is a process which can be adapted to other work, espe- 
cially in the shop of tlie amateur. In ordinary lapping 
the lapps are usually made of soft material into which the 
abrasive particles can readily be pressed. Soft, close- 
grained cast iron, copper or lead can be used as a lapp, 
and the surfaces can be charged by rolling the lapp in the 
particles. For internal lapping the lapp is made cylindri- 
cal in shape. It will be assumed that a hardened steel 
cylinder wdth an internal bore is to be lapped out exactly 
2 in. in diameter and that it is within a few thousandth 
parts of an inch of this diameter. Owing to the fact that 
it is made of hardened steel it would be impossible to turn 
it out on the lathe, and the amount of metal to be removed 
is so small that it would not be practical to employ an 
ordinary internal grinder. In this case the lapp would be 
used and after being charged with abrasive particles of 
very fine grit it would be inserted in the cylinder and 
allowed to remain there some time with the lathe revolv- 
ing at high speed. This is generally done in cases where 
extreme accuracy is necessary and the amateur will prob- 
ably never have any work requiring such an operation. 



Grinding Operations 



227 



A simple method of lapping is shown in Fig. 258. In 
place of a metal lapp a wooden one is used and its surface 
wetted with oil. The abrasive flour is then sprinkled on 
and the oil causes the particles to adhere to the surface. 
The Avooden piece should be turned for a fairly tight fit 
in the cylinder. In the operation shown in Fig. 258 the 
lapp is being used to finish the bore of a small steel engine 
cylinder. Such a lapp leaves a smooth, glass-like surface. 

Felt wheels are very useful in grinding operations. 
Such wheels can be purchased at polisher's supply houses 
for a few cents and they are affixed to the grinding head 
in the same manner as an abrasive wheel. The periphery 
of the felt wheel is covered with carpenter's glue and it 



Chuck'^ 



Cylinder 




/Wooden Cylinder 



c 



■r 



Chuck — 



Fig. 258 — Lapping on the lathe 

is then rolled in the abrasive powder or grains that are 
to be used upon its surface. After this is done the wheel 
is set away to dry and when dry it can be used for polish- 
ing various metals. The polish left upon the surface of 
the metal will depend entirely upon the fineness of the 
grains used. 

Buffing is easily accomplished on a grinding head by 
revolving it at high speed and mounting upon the spin- 
dle, Avhat is known as a rag Avheel. This is a wheel made 
up of cotton discs seAved together. When buffing is done 



228 Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 

the grinding head should be revolved at its maximum 
speed. AVhile the rag wheel is at high speed, and before 
the work is applied to it, a piece of polisher's rouge 
should be held against it. The work is then brought in 
contact with the wheel and as much pressure applied as 
the motor which drives the grinding head will overcome 
without any serious reduction in speed. The work is 
rubbed against the surface of the bufhng wheel with an 
upward motion and at regular intervals the rouge should 
be applied. The grinder shown in Fig. 251 has one end 
of its spindle tapered and this is done especially for the 
mounting of rag wheels. The hole in the center of the 
rag wheel is very small and the taper is inserted in this 
and the wheel "screwed" tightly in place. Wheels can 
also be purchased with a larger hole in the center so they 
can be mounted upon the grinding head in the same man- 
ner as an abrasive wheel. 



CHAPTER IX 
Pattern Making 

How patterns are used — Making moulds — How casting is accom- 
plished by the use of patterns — Moulding board — Cope — Drag — 
Use of cope — Use of drag — Procedure in making mould — Tools 
required in moulding — Tools required in pattern making — Making 
patterns — Simple patterns — Split patterns — Woods used in mak- 
ing patterns — Shrinkage of metals — Draught — Laminated patterns 
— Fillets — Method of making fillets — Cored patterns — Core boxes 
— Making core boxes — Furnace for melting brass and bronze in 
the home shop — Construction of furnace — Construction of burner 
— Gasolene tank — Use of furnace. 

A COMPLETE treatment of pattern making would re- 
quire at least a fair sized volume, and the best the author 
can hope to do in this Chapter is to impart to the reader 
the general principles of pattern making and the method 
used in producing simple patterns. 

If a piece of metal a certain shape is desired, a wooden 
pattern is made to this shape and when this reaches the 
foundry an impression of it is made in sand and into this 
sand impression the molten metal is poured. After the 
metal has become cool the casting is lifted out of the sand. 
Various metals and alloys are used in casting. The com- 
mon metals used are iron, aluminum, bronze, copper, 
lead, brass and zinc. Briefly stated, this is the process 
by Avhich patterns are used in producing metal castings. 

Before going farther into the production of Avooden 
patterns, it would be well to give the reader a better idea 
of how a pattern is used, that is, just hoAV the impression 

229 



230 



^^hop Practice for Home Mechanics 



in the sand is made. Having this in mind the mechanic 
will be better able to produce patterns which the foundry- 
man Avill be. able to use. 

It will be assumed that the pattern of the face plate 



] 




Fig. 259 — A lathe face plate to be cast 



shoA\Ti in Fig. 259 is to be cast. The pattern is first 
placed face down upon what is knoMTi as a moulding 
board. This is shoA\ai at Fig. 260. With the pattern in 
this position, what is known as a drag is placed over it as 
illustrated in Fig. 261. A drag is nothing more or less 
than a rectangular wooden frame. With the drag in posi- 
tion, sand is sprinkled over the pattern and the end of 



.--Paffern 




Moulding Board- 
Fig. 260 — How the pattern is mounted upon the moulding board 

the drag is rammed full of sand to the top. AVhen the 
sand reaches the top, a straight-edge is used to level it 
off flush. What is known as a bottoming board is then 
placed over the top of the drag and the drag with the 
pattern in place is then turned upside down, leaving the 
pattern as shown in Fig. 262. The cope, which is another 
rectangular frame similar to the drag is then placed 



Pattern Making 



231 



over the drag and rammed full of sand. After the cope 
has been filled and lifted off, the pattern is removed 
from the sand with a draw pin. In remo\'ing the pat- 
tern from the sand it is necessary to rap it to prevent the 




-Drag 



J^' 



Fig. 261 — The drag placed in position 

sand from clinging to its surface Avhich would spoil the 
mould. After the pattern is removed a sprue pin is 
pressed into the sand to form an opening tlirough which 
the molten metal runs into the mould. AVhen this is done, 

Moulding Boarcf--,, 




Boftominq Board--' 

Fig. 262 — The filled drag placed on the bottoming board 

the cope and drag are placed together and with the addi- 
tion of a few vent holes, which permit the air to leave 
as the metal runs in, the aj)paratus is ready for casting. 
The pattern of tlie face plate is an especially simple 



232 Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 

type to cast and it is Avell to mention here that all pat- 
terns are not so simply made or so easy to cast. 

The pulley sho^\^l in Fig. 263 conld not he cast in the 
same manner as the face plate. It will be seen that this 
pulley has a croA\Ti face with opposite tapers and tliere- 
f ore if an impression was made in the sand of the pulley 

F=) 



I I 

j " 



Fig, 263 — An example of a split pattern 

it would be impossible to remove the pattern mthout 
destroying- the mould. If, however, the pattern is split 
in the middle it is possible to make an impression of each 
half and then bring the moulds together to make the cast- 
ing. Such a pattern is known as a split pattern and they 
are commonly used. The way in which a split pattern 




Fig. 264 — How a split pattern is held together by pins 

is held together is shown in Fig. 264. Holes are made in 
one half and small brass pins in the other half lock into 
these holes. Such a pattern is cast in the following way. 
The half without the pins is laid face down upon the 
moulding board. The drag is put in place and the sand 
packed around and leveled off as mentioned in connec- 
tion with the casting of the face plate. This done, the 
drag is turned up and the moulding board lifted off, leav- 



Pattern Making 233 

ing the pulley pattern facing upward. The cope is then 
placed over the drag and the other half of the pulley is 
placed on the half which is imbedded in the sand con- 
tained in the drag. When this is done, sand is packed 
into the cojDe and leveled off at the top. The cope and 
drag are then parted and tlie two halves of the pulley re- 
moved. The cope and drag are then put together again 
in the same position, which brings the two halves of the 
mould into register. 

The tools rec[uired for pattern making are very simple 
and it will be found that the following list will include all 
the necessary equipment and materials : 

Sharp knife. 

Block plane. 

Hack saw. 

Ruler. 

Dividers. 

Calipers. 

Chisels. 

Gouges. 

Square and bevelled protractors. 

Sand paper. 

Shellac. 

Several different kinds of wood can be used in making 
patterns. These include mahogany, white pine, white 
wood and cherr^'. White pine is a delightful wood to 
work with and it seems to have first choice among most 
amateur pattern makers. If a pattern is to be used con- 
siderably and many castings have to be made from it, 
it might be well to make it of mahogany as this wood 
will stand more abuse than white pine. Brass is also 
used at times to make patterns and a brass pattern will 
last indefinitely. Owing to the difficulty of producing 



234 



Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 



good brass patterns few amateurs care to attempt mak- 
ing them. 

When the metal in a mould cools it shrinks consider- 
ably, and therefore, in order to compensate for tliis 
shrinkage it is necessary to make patterns a trifle larger 
than the finished casting is to be. The amount of shrink- 
age depends entirely upon the kind of metal being cast. 
The following table can be referred to when patterns are 
being made: 

Brass 3/16 inches shrinkage to the foot. 

Zinc 3/16 " '' '' " '' 

Copper 7/32 '' '' '' " " 

Cast Iron 1/8 '' '^ '' " " 



If a casting of copper 2 ft. long Avas to be made it would 
be necessary to make the pattern 2 ft. 7/16 in. long in 
order to compensate for shrinkage. 




Fig. 265 — Illustrating the meaning of draught 

Most patterns nuist be provided with what is knowm 
as a draught. The draught of a pattern is really a very 
slight taper so that it can be pulled from tlie sand with- 
out breaking the mould. This will be made clear by re- 
ferring to Fig. 265, which shows a pattern for a cylin- 
der being pulled from the sand. The draught shown in 
the drawing is greatly exaggerated. 



Pattern Making 



235 



It is well to make most patterns mth laminations if a 
great nmiiber of castings are to be made. Three equal 
thicknesses of wood are generally used to form the lami- 
nations and they are held together by heated or prepared 
glue. For simple j^atterns from which but few castings 
are to be made, laminations need not be resorted to as it 
would be a waste of time. 

In making patterns the mechanic should always use his 
square and every piece cut should be squared up and 
planed perfectly true. It will be found that the lathe 
will come in very useful in producing circular pieces for 
use with patterns. Tiny brads are used many times in 




Fig. 266 — A piece of the shape shown must be provided with fillets 
before it can be cast 

holding the parts of a pattern together and their heads 
should be driven under the surface with a nail set and 
carefully covered with putty. After a pattern has been 
produced to shape it should be given a careful sandpaper- 
ing, mth No. 00 paper. After this is done, it is given a 
coat of shellac and set away to dry. "When dry, this ini- 
tial coat of shellac is sandpapered off and another coat 
is applied. The first coat of shellac is used to fill up the 
grain of the wood and the second coat will leave the pat- 
tern with a high glossy finish. Such a finish is necessary 
so that in pulling the pattern from the sand the mould 
will not be destroyed by sand adhering to it. 

Sharp corners should never be made on patterns as 



236 Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 

they will always cause weak spots in the casting, owing 
to the strains which are set np in the metal when it cools. 
These strains often result in fractures before the cast- 
ing- is taken from the sand. If the piece shown in Fig. 
266 was to l)e cast, all the corners of the wood should be 
slightly rounded and the corner "B" should be provided 
with a fillet. The fillet can be made of a little strip of 
wood tacked or glued into position. The fillet should have 
a radius in proportion to the thickness of the pattern 
and for very small patterns the radius need not be over 
% in. Owing to the difficulty of producing a curved, thin 
strip of wood as small as this, it is necessary to resort 
to some substitute and hot wax is generally the substance 
used. Warm beeswax can be nicely worked into the cor- 
ner to serve as a fillet, by the aid of a little round-nosed 
tool. AVhen the beesAvax is pressed in place and covered 



^y///////////////////////////////A 



y//////////y//////// /^/////////A 



Fig. 267 — Cross-section of a cored casting 

with a few coats of shellac there is no danger of it being 
removed with ordinary use of the pattern. 

Cored patterns and core boxes Avill now be considered. 
In order to explain the use of core boxes in producing 
cored patterns, it will be assumed that a casting similar 
to that shoAMi in Fig. 267 is to be made. The reader will 
realize that a pattern made to the shape of the cjdinder 
shown would be useless in forming a mould, owing to the 
fact that the hole in the center of it would interfere with 
drawing it from the sand. Tiie sand when packed in the 
center of the pattern Avould be jiulled out Avith the pat- 



Pattern Maying 



237 



tern and a solid casting withont a hole would result. A 
properly shaped pattern to produce the cylinder shoAvm 
in Fig. 267 appears in Fig. 268. The projections at the 

/Core Prints • 



Core Pnnfs^ 




Fig. 268 — Example of a cored pattern, showing the core prints at 

the ends 

end are knoAvn as core prints, and mth such a pattern it 
is necessary to use a core box. This core box is noth- 
ing more or less than two blocks of wood, which, when 
placed together, will have a hole in their center a trifle 
smaller than the core prints on the pattern. A core box 
to use A\dth the cylinder pattern is showTi in Fig. 269. 




Fig. 269 — A core box for use with the pattern shown in Fig. 268 

One half of the core box is provided with projecting 
brads and the opposite half has small holes drilled in it 
to receive these brads, and the two halves are held to- 
gether in this way. When placed together, the foundry- 



238 



Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 



man presses a mixture of moulding sand and molasses 
and other ingredients dowm into the hole, and when the 




Fig. 269A — A core box 

hole is pressed full the core box is split apart and the 
sand lifted out. 



dJ: 






Fig. 270 — The print left by a cored pattern 

By carefully studying Fig. 270 and 271, the use of a 
core box and core prints on the pattern will be under- 




Fig. 27 1 A — Several ordinary patterns without core prints 

stood. The pattern Avith the core prints leaves an im- 
print in the sand similar to that shown at Fig. 270, and 



Pattern Making 239 

it "will also be understood that the impression left in the 
sand by the core prints is superfluous. Into these prints 
the core itself, which is made of sand moulded in the 
core box, is placed. The cope and drag are then placed 
together and the casting is ready to be poured. A study 
of Fig. 271 will show that the molten metal Avill run 
around the sand core and cool in this way, leaving the 
sand imbedded in the center of the casting. Core prints 
generally project from the pattern from i/o in. to 1 in. for 
small work. The projection usually depends upon the 
size of the pattern. It mil be seen that the core print 
of the pattern must be a trifle larger in diameter than 

^Core 




Fig. 271 — A print left by a cored pattern with the core in place ready 

for casting 

the sand core, owing to the fact that the core must fit 
into the core print without disturbing the mould. The 
core prints on a pattern are always painted black to dis- 
tinguish them from the rest of the pattern and so that 
the foundrjanan will know that they are not to be cast 
whole. 

Core prints are not only used to produce holes in a 
casting in the manner described. Reference to Fig. 272 
will make clear another use of core prints in producing a 
casting of an electric meter case. A casting which is to 
be hollowed out in this way must be provided with core 
prints and a proper core box. 

Large foundries are generally equipped with means 



240 Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 

for making cores of standard sizes, such as 14, %, i^, %, 
1, 11/4, 114, etc. The amateur is advised, however, to 
make his o^\ai core prints as all foundries do not have 
such equipment on hand. 

If a small steam engine cylinder is to be cast with a 
cored hole the hole should be at least 1/8 in. to 1/16 in. 
smaller in diameter than the finished bore of the cylinder. 
This is to allow for machining. In a small cylinder, 1/16 
in. is sufficient allowance and a rose reamer will nicely 
remove this amount of metal witli one cut. In the case 
of large cored holes more allowance should be made for 
machining. 



■ 'i_'7J 


- - /M / 



'Paffer/f 
Fig. 272 — Method of making an impression for a meter case 

Before sending patterns to the foundry, the mechanic 
should place small paper "stickers" upon them and the 
number of castings to be made from each set is marked 
upon this ''sticker." For instance, if a set of patterns 
were cut for a model tmn-cylinder steam engine the pat- 
tern for the steam chest Avould be marked "2" and this 
would show the foundryman that two castings of this par- 
ticular piece were necessary for each set of castings for 
the model engine. Other parts used in duplicate should 
be marked the same way. It is well to put the stickers on 
before the coating of shellac is put in place. ' 



Pattern Making 241 

"When castings of iron are received from the foundry 
they are oftentimes encrusted with an extremely hard 
"skin." This liard skin results from the cooling of the 
iron, and it is often so hard that it will turn the point of 
the lathe tool over when being machined. If the tool 
can be forced under the surface of this skin into the 
softer part of the metal, it will be found that this skin 
can be cut away without any trouble and without dam- 
age to the point of the tool. To assist the tool in getting 
under this hard skin, a little spot can be ground in the 
casting and when the point of the tool reaches this spot 
it will dig into the surface. Another method is to im- 
merse the casting in a pickle composed of one part of 
sulphuric acid and four parts of water. This softens the 
hard surface of the metal and restores it to its natural 
degree of hardness. 

With a suitable furnace in which to melt bronze, cop- 
per, brass and lead, the mechanic will be in a position to 
cast many of his own simple little patterns at home with- 
out resorting to the foundry, as most foundries, espe- 
cially the larger ones, do not wish to be bothered mth 
small orders for small castings. The materials needed, 
aside from the furnace, are very inexpensive. 

The moulding sand can be obtained from the local 
foundry for a few cents per pound, and the copes, drags 
and bottoming boards are easily produced. 

The little home furnace for melting bronze, brass, etc., 
described in the following paragraphs, is easily made, 
and, ha\ang a capacity'' of several pounds of metal, it will 
be found sufficient for all ordinary sized castings which 
enter into the construction of models and small parts. 

As explained in the preface, the author is indebted to 
Mr. R. W. Wagner for the design and description of this 



242 



Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 



furnace and it will probably be best to use Mr. Wagner's 
owai words: 

' ' The melting of the metal is undoubtedly the most dif- 
ficult problem to be solved in connection with our foundry 
project. Possibly some have considered it either too 
difficult or too impractical to be attempted in the home 
shop. However, a home-made furnace may be con- 
structed that Avill successfully melt brass and bronze. 

Three different furnaces were built and tried out. The 
first one, A, Fig. 273, is rather conventional in design 




Fig. 273 — A small brass and bronze smelting furnace for use in 
the small shop 

and was satisfactory except tliat removing the crucible 
was rather inconvenient. The second one, B, was similar 
to the first except that it was larger, and was built of 
fine brick. In both of these furnaces the crucible rested 
on supports which projected from the sides of the fur- 
nace inward. The flame, entering the opening in the 
side, passed underneath and up around the crucible, es- 
caping at the top. 



Pattern Making 



243 



The last one constructed, and the one which is un- 
doubtedly the best, is shown at C, Fig. 273. It is built 
in two parts, a cover, hinged to open up, and a base. It 
is showni with the cover propped open and the crucible 
in place. In this furnace, the crucible rests on the flat 
bottom of a circular chamber which the flame enters at 
a tangent, whirling about and up around the crucible, 
leaving the furnace through the hopper-shaped opening 



« 8"Dia. ■» 

FireclavN Crucible. Cover- 




Sheet Me+al-' Base- 

For Crucible 3"Pia.3/2"High 
Front View Half SecTioo 

Fig. 274 — Details of the furnace illustrated in Fig. 273 

in the cover. Fig. 274 gives details needed in construct- 
ing the furnace. The axis of this tube at which the flame 
enters makes an angle of 16 degrees with the horizontal, 
in this particular case. Some builders may prefer to 
make the axis horizontal. The tube should be short in 
any case. 

Grasoline is used for fuel. It is fed from a tank at a 
pressure of 30 lbs. In passing through the nipple D, 
Fig. 273, it is vaporized and issues in a jet from the 
needle valve, E, Fig. 273. The nipple is kept hot by the 



244 Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 

pilot burner F. The needle valve was taken from an old 
blow torch and the pilot burner from an old gasoline 
mantle lamp. The jet of gasoline vapor is directed into 
the opening in the side of the furnace, and, as it rushes 
in, carries along the right amount of air for proper com- 
bustion. After the pilot has been started and has heated 
the nipple sufficiently to vaporize the gasoline, the fur- 
nace flame may be started by opening the needle valve 
and holding a lighted alcohol torch beneath the issuing 
jet of vapor until the flame will maintain itself when the 
torch is removed. In starting, it is well to lift the cover 
of the furnace slightly to allow the gases good circula- 
tion. AVhen the furnace and crucible are red hot, the 
cover should be lowered. It is essential to have the 
needle valve the proper distance from the opening in the 
furnace. This can be determined by trial. With this 
furnace the best distance seemed to be 2i/2 in. 

Perhaps the best metals to use are brass and bronze. 
A good way to secure brass is in the form of junk steam 
fittings. The experimenter mil no doubt be tempted to 
alloy the brass mth aluminum. This is to be advised 
against as trouble will be had with the formation of 
dross. 



CHAPTER X 
Hardening and Tempering Steel 

How steel is hardened — Essential requirements for proper hardening 
— Tempering — Necessary temperature — Apparatus required — 
Decalescense point — Recalescense point- — Tempering steel — Dif- 
ferent temperatures — Quenching — Quenching baths — Case hard- 
ening — Apparatus for case hardening — Temperature for case 
hardening — Materials required for case hardening— Home-made 
hardening furnace — Construction of home-made hardening fur- 
nace. 

It is necessary for the amateur mechanic to know how 
to treat steel so that he may harden his own lathe tools 
and machine parts. It must be confessed that the hard- 
ening of steel is an exacting process that few men are 
proficient in, yet, with a few simple rules- of -thumb, the 
mechanic may do his own work in a satisfactory manner 
that will at least be suitable for the home shop. 

Steel is hardened as the result of an internal change 
in the structure which takes place when the steel is heated 
properly to a correct temperature. The change which 
takes place in the steel depends entirely upon the amount 
of carbon present. In ordinary carbon steel the per- 
centage of carbon is between .2 per cent and 2 per cent. 
Ordinary carbon steels begin to soften at about 390 de- 
grees Fahr. At 400 degrees F., practically all of the 
hardness in the steel has disappeared. 

Several requirements are essential to good hardening. 
Small projections or ends ■^hould not be heated more 

245 



246 Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 

rapidly than the body of the piece of which they form a 
part. In other words, all parts of a piece of steel should 
be heated at the same rate and they should all be heated 
to the same temperature. It is only possible to do this 
by heating the steel slowly. A uniform heat carefully 
regulated will produce the best results. Steel that is 
not heated uniformly is apt to be destroyed by irregular 
grain or internal strains which produce surface cracks. 
As before stated, every steel has its critical temperature, 
above Avliich it should not be heated. When heated above 
this point its grain becomes coarse and its strength di- 
minishes appreciably. The higher percentage of carbon 
present in steel, the lower will be the temperature re- 
ciuired to bring about the internal change which hardens 
the steel. In simple language it may be said that the crit- 
ical temperature points of a high carbon steel are lower 
than those of a low carbon steel. In common carbon 
steels there are two critical temperatures. One is called 
the decalescence point and the other the recalescence 
point. It has only been during the. past few years that 
attention has been paid to the decalescence and recales- 
cence points in steel, and through ncAv knowledge along 
this line the science of hardening steel has been greatly 
improved. 

To facilitate the explanation of the decalescence and 
recalescence points, reference should be made to Fig. 275. 
It ^^^ll be seen that as the temperature of the steel rises 
a point is reached in the neighborhood of 735 degrees, 
where the temperature of the steel actually falls even 
though the source of heat is not diminished in the least. 
The metal continues to absorb heat without appreciably 
rising in temperature. This is called the decalescence 
point, and it is believed hy scientists that this is the 



Hardening and Tempering Steel 



247 



point where an actual change in the pliysical and chemi- 
cal structure of the steel is brought about, and that the 
heat applied to the steel is used in bringing about this 
change. When the decalescence point of steel has been 
reached it should be innnersed in the quenching bath. It 
is understood, of course, that the average home work- 



















































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- 












s 


































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?°f. 
















\ 












O 




f 


V 














\ 


/?e< 


■Po 


set 


nci 


' 


6> 








'■Di 


'ca/es'cer 


ce 






\ 


k / 


































Vj 


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y 


































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\ 


































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- 




























































































\ 


































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Fig' 275 — Chart illustrating the recalescence and decalescence point 

of steel 

shop is not equipped with the necessary apparatus to 
determine the decalescence point of steel and this infor- 
mation is merely set forth to give the reader a better 
understanding of the general nature of steel. An expen- 
sive electrical pyrometer is necessary to determine the 



248 Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 

decalescence and recalescence points of steel. In practice 
it lias been found advisable to heat the steel a few de- 
grees above the decalescence point so that it will not cool 
too much before it reaches the quenching bath. If the 
steel, after reaching the decalescence point, was alloAved 
to cool, it would reach a certain point where the tempera- 
ture would rise as shown in Fig. 275. This point is called 
the recalescence point and is generally a few degrees be- 
low the decalescence point. The recalescence point is 
that at which the steel changes to its original condi- 
tion unless it has been quenched before it reaches this 
point. The heat absorbed at the decalescence point in 
bringing about the necessary physical and chemical 
change in the steel is given up again at the recalescence 
point where it goes back to its original nature. 

In tempering steel the mechanic must take advantage 
of a few simple rules-of-thumb, owing to a lack of the 
necessary scientific equipment which forms a part of the 
professional tempering establishment. As before stated, 
to harden carbon steel it is first necessary to heat it to 
a certain temperature and suddenly quench it in cold 
water. After quenching, the steel will be in a very hard 
and brittle condition and it is brought down to the proper 
degree of hardness by a process knoAAm as tempering. 
Immediately after quenching the steel would be too brit- 
tle for use and Avould probably break if used. To harden 
a lathe tool the point should be heated red and Avhen it 
reaches this point it should be suddenly immersed in a 
bath of cold water. The opposite end of the tool should 
not be allowed to reach a point of redness, as this part 
of the tool should be more soft and tough than the cut- 
ting edge so that it will not break off in the tool post. 
The mechanic will find that the hardening of lathe tools 



Hardening and Tempering Steel 



249 



can be accomplislied with a large gasoline torch, or, bet- 
ter still, a small furnace made of bricks and heated with 
a gasoline torch. Such a furnace is shown at Fig. 276. 
If the reader builds a small smelting furnace such as 
that described in Chapter IX it mil serve both purposes, 
that of melting bronze and that of hardening steel. 

The quenching or cooling of a piece of hardened steel 
is a very important part of the process. It is by this 
operation that the structural change takes place in the 
steel and the decalescence point is, we may say, 
' ' trapped. ' ' The heated piece should be cooled uniformly 

Open Tbp.^ 




Fire Bricks- . 



Burner-- 



.-Plumbago Crucible 
_^Hci if Brick 



■Bench covered 
wifi) asbestos 



Valve---- 



Enc/ of Hoi- 
Water Boiler 



Outlet Pipe- 



Vaporizing Coils 

'/no. Shelby Steel Tubing 




, Pressure Gage 

■ ■Air Pump 



Nippie 




Iron Strip 



"Tray for Pre- heating 

Fig. 276 — Details of a home-made tempering outfit for steel 

and as instantaneous as possible. To do this the bath 
should be amply large in order to dissipate the heat rap- 
idly. Too small a bath will cause the steel to cool slowly 
and when cooled in this way it is sure to be defective. 
Instead of having a basin of still water for the bath it is 
advisable to have a large basin with running water. 

If a little salt is added to the quenching bath it will 
l)e found that a greater hardness is produced at the same 



250 Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 

temperature. This appears to be due to a difference of 
the heat-dissipating power of the brine and pure water. 
In fact, the difference is so great that if a small piece of 
steel is suddenly immersed in a brine solution it will 
crack. Oil is sometimes used as a cooling bath, but the 
home mechanic is advised to use pure water, as much 
more experience is necessary to get proper results with 
an oil or brine solution. 

If the home mechanic wishes to be sure that his steel is 
above the decalescence point before it is immersed in the 
quenching bath, he can take advantage of the fact that 
steel heated to a temperature above the decalescence 
point is non-magnetic. At bright red steel has no appre- 
ciable magnetic properties, that is, it shows no attraction 
for a magnet. At cherry red it regains its magnetic 
properties, but at this temperature it is below the decales- 
cence point. 

From the foregoing it will be seen that an ordinary 
horseshoe magnet can be used to determine the proper 
temperature to harden a piece of steel and to make sure 
that it is well above the decalescence point. When the 
steel is brought out and the magnetic test made, it should 
again be placed in the furnace for a minute or two to 
niake sure that it has regained the heat that it lost while 
the magnetic test was being made. It may also be pos- 
. sible to make a magnetic test by dropping the magnet into 
the top of the furnace by a wire. 

Having considered the process of the hardening of 
steel, attention will now be diverted to the process of 
tempering. When a piece of steel is hardened, its hard- 
ness can be lowered to most any degree. To do this the 
steel is heated to various temperatures, the temperature 
depending upon the degree of hardness desired. The 



Hardening and Tempering Steel 251 

color test is sufficiently accurate, for all ordinary pur- 
poses. When heated, the tool takes on colors which ex- 
tend from a pale straw through dark straw to brown 
yellow, yellow purple, dark purple and dark blue to blue. 
The steel should be heated away from the cutting edge, 
which is usually the less massive end, so that the back or 
non-cutting portion of the tool will be softer and tougher. 
Owing to the impossibility of preventing the back edge 
of the tool from heating in the tempering furnace and 
becoming as hard as the cutting edge of the tool during 
the process of hardening, its proper condition must be 
brought about through tempering. When the steel being 
tempered reaches'its proper point (determined by color), 
it should be immersed in the quenching bath. To better 
judge the color, the tool should be brightened with emery 
cloth at the working point. 

The following table will guide mechanics in producing 
the proper degree of hardness in tools of various natures. 

Dark blue — springs, screwdrivers, wood chisels. 

Dark purple — chipping chisels. 

Purple broA\m — turning tools for brass, drills, center- 
ing punches and lathe centers. 

BrowTi yellow — reamers, turning tools, punches, drills 
and dies. 

Dark straw — taps, dies, drills, turning tools. 

Medium straAV — shaper, and planer tools, milling cut- 
ters. 

Light straw — scrapers for brass. 

On the market at the present time there are steels 
known as "high speed" variety. These are generally 
alloy steels and instructions for hardening are generally 
furnished by the makers. Such steels are usually known 
as self or air-hardening steels, owing to the fact that it is 



252 Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 

not necessary to quench them after they are heated to 
the proper point. 

Case hardening: is a process of producing a hard exter- 
nal skin or case about the piece of steel, leaving the in- 
terior soft and in its original condition. Case hardening 
is a very important process and it is generally resorted 
to in producing machine parts which are to resist wear. 
It is also used in producing certain tools. 

To produce a hard crust on a piece of steel it is neces- 
sary to heat it continuously for several hours at a certain 
temperature and in contact with some carbonaceous ma- 
terial. Tlie steel to be case hardened is packed in the 
carbonaceous substance Avhich generally consists of 
charred leather, granulated raAvbone, bone black, prus- 
siate of potash (potassium ferrocyanide). 

The process of bringing the carbonaceous matter to 
combine with the iron or steel under the influence of a 
high temperature is called carburising. The surface of 
the iron or steel under treatment suffers a structural 
change by the impregnation of carbon. This process is 
continued at a specific temperature and length of time 
until the "case" has attained maximum hardness and 
deptli. If the process is continued long enough the pene- 
tration of the carbonaceous matter will go to a consid- 
erable depth and as a result, produce a thick '^case." If 
it is heated but a short time the "case" Avill be very thin. 
The exact length of time for a case of certain thickness 
must be learned from practical experience alone, as much 
depends upon the class and size of the article undergoing 
impregnation. The heating process extends from 3 hours 
as a minimum to 7 or 8 hours as a maximum. The tem- 
perature must be kept within certain limits, oAving to the 
fact that the carbon will not impregnate the steel prop- 



Hardening and Tempering Steel 253 

erly if the temperature is too high. As a general rule 
the article undergoing the process should be raised to a 
temperature of 900 degrees C. and allowed to remain at 
this temperature the proper length of time, which will 
depend upon the depth of the case required. The little 
furnace described in Chapter IX can also be used in case- 
hardening small parts and by this time it is hoped that 
the reader will realize the great utility of such a small 
gas-heated furnace in his shop. 

Articles for case hardening should be packed in plain 
wrought-iron boxes with the carborising material. The 
box should be of sufficient size so that the article to be 
case hardened will be at least li/^ inches from the sides 
and ends of the liox. A cover must be made for the box 
and when this is put in place all the crevices should be 
sealed up carefully with fire clay or ganister to prevent 
the possible escape of all the carbon-bearing gases. The 
lid of the box can be fastened down with wrought-iron 
straps so arranged that they can be quickly removed 
when the box is withdraAvn from the furnace. Upon with- 
drawing the box from the furnace, the cover is immedi- 
ately removed and the article or articles are plunged into 
a bath of cold water, allowing them to come in contact 
with the atmosphere as little as possible. In fact, it is 
advisable in certain work to plunge the whole box into 
the cold-water bath. 

If a very thin casing of hardened steel is desired, the 
process described above is not necessary. The article 
to be hardened can be heated to a bright red, withdrawn 
from the source of heat and covered with carbonaceous 
material. It is allowed to "soak" in this for from 1 to 
5 minutes. After this process, the part is again heated 
to bright red and plunged into running water. This 



254 



Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 



method of hardening produces a skin of haidoned steel 
about 1/lOOth of an inch thick. This very thin case, how- 
ever, will resist a tremendous amount of wear. 

Owing to the difficulty of obtaining carbonaceous ma- 
terials referred to in previous portions of this treatment, 
the home mechanic will find a good substitute by mixing 
9 parts of wood charcoal with one jiart of salt. 

Another method of producing a very tliin case is shown 
at Fig. 277. This is practical only with small pieces. 
The article to be case hardened is packed in carbona- 



Sheet Iron Boxes 



Fine Charcoal and Salt 




°lV— Rivets 

Fig. 277 — A small gear in place for case hardening 

ceous material as shown, and the flame of the torch al- 
lowed to impinge upon its surface. After about twenty 
minutes, the article is turned over so that the opposite 
side will come in contact with the carbonaceous ma- 
terial. 



CHAPTER XI 

Soldering and Brazing 

Theory of soldering — Preparation of surfaces before applying solder 
— Fluxes — Fluxes for various metals — Making flux — Solders — 
Composition of solders — Solders with various melting points — 
Soldering coppers — Heating soldering coppers — Blow torches — 
Operation of blow torches — Use of Bunsen burner in soldering 
— Silver soldering — Silver soldering fluxes — Silver soldering ap- 
paratus — Application of silver solder — Silver soldering various 
metals — Br,azing — Brazing various metals. 

It is difficult to learn the process of soft soldering from 
printed instrnctions, but, by the aid of the data given in 
this Chapter and with a little experience, amateur me- 
chanics should have little trouble producing presentable 
work. 

The most important part of soft soldering is that 
of properly preparing the metallic surfaces which are to 
be joined. It is extremely aggravating to have the solder 
roll around the surfaces of the metal in small balls with- 
out adhering. Such a condition is always caused by dirt 
or by heating the metal surfaces to too great a tempera- 
ture, which forms a thin iilm of oxide, preventing the 
solder from adhering. Any metallic surfaces contami- 
nated with grease or other foreign matter cannot be sol- 
dered successfully no matter how cleverly the soldering 
copper is manipulated. The surfaces to be joined should 
first be thoroughly cleaned with a scraper or emery 
cloth. A very useful little scraper for use in soldering 

255 



256 Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 

is illustrated in Fig. 278. The triangular portion of the 
tool should be well hardened and provided with sharp 
edges. The use of the tool is evident. After a mechani- 
cal surface has been properly prepared to receive solder, 
it should not be handled with the fingers as a certain 
amount of greasy matter will be deposited upon the sur- 
faces and this will seriousl}^ interfere Avith the Avork, 
Although the metallic surfaces should be cleaned until 
they are bright, it is not necessary to scrape excessively 
until a noticeable impression is formed in the metal. 
Soldering coppers are made in various sizes and 
shapes. A few of the common shapes are shown in Fig. 
279. A very small copper and a medium-sized one will 




Fig. 278 — A hand scraper used in preparing surfaces to receive 

solder 

meet the needs of the average shop. The larger a solder- 
ing copper is, the longer it will hold its heat and the more 
soldering can be done with it before reheating becomes 
necessary. The disadvantage of a very large copper is 
the fact that it is clumsy to handle when small pieces are 
being soldered. 

Before a soldering copper can be used, its tip must be 
properly ''tinned." If the point of the copper is not 
"tinned" the solder melted by it will adhere and diffi- 
culty will be experienced in producing a joint. There- 
fore, the tip of the soldering copper is covered with 
solder, or, according to the tinsmith's parlance it is 
*' tinned." 



Soldering and Brazing 



257 



To tin a soldering copper, a soft yellow brick should 
be procured and hollowed out in the center as sho^\ni in 
Fig. 280. Into the cavity produced, a little molten resin 
is placed together with a pellet of molten solder. The 



^^Z^ 



^^ 





Fig. 279 — Different types of soldering coppers used for different 

purposes 

solder will, of course, run separate from the resin. Tlie 
tip of the soldering copper is carefully brightened up 
with a smooth file, after which it is heated in a gas or 
bunsen flame. The point is then placed in the cavity and 




Fig. 280 — A tinning brick 

held there until the solder melts, after which the tip of 
the copper is rubbed back and forth in the cavity. Dur- 
ing this rubbing it is turned over several times. Wlien 
the tip of the copper is taken from under the surface of 
the molten resin and solder it will be found that a quan- 



258 



Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 



tity of solder adhered to the copper, leaving it in a briglit 
condition. The solder distributes itself over the surface 
in a thin film. The copper should be kept in this condi- 
tion at all times and when the tinned surfaces become 
dull the copper should be heated and the process de- 
scribed above repeated. When the copper has once been 
tinned the tinning process requires but a minute or two. 
A soldering copper must be heated properly. The 
point of the copper, or the tinned portion, should never 
be placed directly in the flame. The flame must be ap- 
plied to the back of the iron as sho^\ai in Fig. 281, and 



:)\. 



W 



Bunsen 
'Burner 



Fig. 281 — How a soldering copper is heated with a Bunsen burner 

heated in this way the tip of the copper will be raised to 
practically the same temperature as the back of the cop- 
per, owing to the high thermal conductivity of the metal. 
It is also possible to overheat a copper and although this 
causes the solder to flow easily it makes the soldering 
operation much more difficult. A soldering copper at the 
right temperature should be just hot enough to cause the 
solder to melt and flow after it has been in contact ^^4th 
it for a few seconds. Instantaneous melting of the solder 
upon contact mth the soldering copper signifies that 
the copper is too hot. Overheating not only makes the 



Soldering and Brazing 



259 



process of soldering more difficult, but it is also ruinous 
to the copper, pitting its surfaces and burning off the 
*'tin." When the soldering copper is overheated, exces- 
sive oxidation takes place, which will in turn destroy 
the copper. 

If the city gas is available in the workshop a bunsen 
burner should be used in heating the soldering copper, 
as it gives a clean, hot flame without noise. In the event 
gas is not available, the ordinary gasoline blow torch is 

/To Adjust Needle Valve 
Torch-^^ 



Pan for 
'^Pre-heatin(^ 




Fig. 282 — A gasoline blow torch and its parts 

probably the best substitute. It is possible to purchase 
blow torches which have a special holder on them for the 
soldering copper. 

It might be well to say a few words here about the 
operation of a blow torch. A common type of torch is 
sho^vTi at Fig. 282. The tank is made of brass and the 
fuel is kept in this. The fuel tank should never be com- 
pletely filled. Two-thirds full is sufficient, owing to the 
fact that an air pressure must also be produced within 
the tank, which causes the gasoline to rise and flow to the 
nozzle and vaporize. A little air pump is generally in- 
corporated in the handle of the torch and this must be 



260 Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 

operated before it is possible to start the torcli. Tlie 
pump should be worked until it becomes difficult to con- 
tinue the strokes, owing to the back pressure of the air 
in the tank. When this is done the needle valve should 
be opened and gasoline allowed to run into the little iron 
receptacle directly under the torch. This is then lighted 
with a match and after the gasoline has become almost 
completely consumed through combustion, the needle 
valve is again opened. The gasoline issuing from the 
needle valve vaporizes immediately it comes in contact 
viith the heated torch, producing a roaring hot flame sev- 




"-Bar of So/o/er 
Fig. 283 — Taking solder from a bar of half-and-half 

eral inches long. Torches sometimes fail to operate, 
owing to the fact that the preheating was not sufficient 
to cause the gasoline to vaporize properly as it came 
forth. In this event the preheating should be continued 
until the gasoline vaporizes and burns when the needle 
valve is opened. From time to time it mil be necessary 
to replenish the air supply in the tank. This is done 
when the flame gets shorter and less noisy. 

Solder can be procured in two different forms. Ordi- 
narily it comes in 1-lb. bars. In this form it is known as 
half and half. Solder is also produced in the form of 
wire about % in. in diameter. It is very convenient for 
use in this form and less experience is required in hand- 
ling it. The proper method of taking solder from a bar 
of half and half is shown at Fig. 283. The point of the 



Soldering and Brazing 2G1 

heated copper is held in contact A\T.th the sokler until a 
small bit melts and adheres to it. Although this sounds 
easy on paper it Avill be found much more difificult in prac- 
tice. After the solder has adhered to the copper, it is 
brought in contact with the work to be soldered and as 
the copper is run along the seam or crevice slowly the 
solder will adhere. The Avire solder is used in a different 
manner. The soldering copper is placed in contact with 
the work and a piece of wire, held in the opposite hand, 
is placed against the tip of the copper and held there 
until it melts and flows onto the work. 

There is a certain brand of wire solder which carries 
the soldering flux in its center. After the metallic sur- 
faces have been prepared for the application of solder, it 
is necessary to place a little flux over them. The flux 
melts as the copper comes into contact with it and pre- 
vents the surfaces from oxidizing, thereby assisting in 
producing a secure joint. Various kinds of soldering 
fluxs are on the market. Some of the prepared mixtures 
or formulas can be recommended and some cannot. For 
all ordinary purposes powdered resin Avill be found very 
suitable. This should be kept in a little jar and some of 
it sprinlded on the joint .to be soldered. Sal-ammoniac is 
a very good flux to use when soldering copper, but it is 
not useful for other materials. 

Many times it is possible to solder in the bunsen flame 
without the use of a soldering copper, providing the work 
is large enough. In this case the pieces to be soldered 
are held together with a pair of tongs and placed in the 
bunsen flame in such a Avay that the flame will not im- 
pinge upon the surfaces to be soldered. When the metal 
becomes heated sufficiently the wire solder is brought into 
contact mth it and it will flow nicely into the joint. In 



262 ' SJio2^ Practice for Home Mechanics 

soldering very small pieces it is advisable to bring the 
copper into contact with them and hold it there until the 
pieces become heated enongh to melt the solder when it 
is brought into contact with them. The soldering copper 
in this case is merely used as a medium to comnumicate 
the necessary heat to the pieces. 

Sometimes it is difficult to hold two pieces in the 
proper position for soldering. It is oftentimes possible 
to use A\are to bind the work together preparatory for 
soldering. 

In places where ordinary soft solder will not hold and 
a very stout joint is desired, silver solder must be used. 
Silver solder consists of brazing spelter (brass) and pure 
metallic silver in varying proportions. The percentage 
of the metals in the composition determines the melting- 
point and this may be anyw^here from 700 degrees Fahr. 
to 2000 degrees Fahr. The greater the temperature 
necessars^ to fuse the silver solder and cause it to flow, 
the stronger the resulting joint will be. Tlie melting 
point of the solder used should always be lower than that 
of the metal upon which it is to be used, otherwise the 
metal Avill be first to melt. For ordinary work a solder 
with a melting point between 700 and 800 degrees a\411 
be found to produce joints mth sufficient strength. For 
use. with copper, a solder consisting of 2 parts of silver 
and 1 part of brass in the form of brazing spelter, is very 
satisfactory. A suitable mixture for work with brass 
consists of 7 parts of silver and 2 parts of brazing spel- 
ter. The silver solder in sheet form can be procured 
from all jeAveler's supply houses. This is the most con- 
venient form in which to use it, and the time required 
for it to melt is greatly decreased. 

Unlike soft solder, silver solder cannot be melted with 



Soldering and Brazing 263 

a soldering copper. It is necessary to use the flame di- 
rectly upon the solder and the temperature of the flame 
must be sufficiently high to cause it to melt. It will be 
found that an ordinary bunsen flame will not be suitable. 
For low temperature solder an ordinary blow torch mil 
furnish sufficient heat for small work. For a larger job, 
hoAvever, a larger flame must be used, as the volume of 
heat given by a small flame will not be sufficient, although 
the temperature may be high enough. 

Work to be silver-soldered or brazed must be carefully 
cleaned by dipping it in a pickle consisting of 1 part 
sulphuric acid, 1 part nitric acid and 6 parts water. 
After the surfaces are carefully prepared they are ready 
for brazing. To facilitate handling, the pieces should be 
wired together. In brazing or silver soldering the heat 
should be conducted from the work itself to the solder. 
The flame of the torch should never be directed on the 
spelter itself with the idea that it is going to melt and 
unite mth the work. It is difficult for an amateur to de- 
termine Avhen he has produced a solid brazed joint. 
Sometimes what looks like a nicely soldered or brazed 
joint will come apart when subjected to the least strain. 
Insufficient heat is probably the greatest cause of poor 
soldering or brazing. There should always be surplus 
heat so that the job will get hot quick enough, which pre- 
vents the formation of troublesome oxides Avhich make it 
impossible to produce a sound joint. Borax is used as a 
flux in brazing and silver soldering. It can be obtained 
in powder or lump form. If it is used in lump form it 
can be ground down on a little piece of slate and mixed 
mth a little water to form a pasty cream. The borax is 
placed on the joint to be soldered and the flame is then 
brought into contact "svith it. After the water has evap- 



264 



Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 



orated the brazing spelter or silver solder is put in place 
on the joint. The flame is again directed upon the work 
and allowed to remain there until the spelter or solder 
melts and runs into the joint. To do this it will be found 
necessary to bring the work to a bright red heat. If the 
melted spelter refuses to flow into the joint something is 
wrong. Probably the surfaces were not completely cov- 
ered with the borax and Avater. In this event they Avere 
oxidized by the heat of the ^ame and the solder would 
not adhere. Oftentimes mixing the spelter with a little 
powdered borax and Avater helps matters considerably. 
The heat should not be applied too long nor should it be 




Charccal Block- 

Fig. 284 — A silver soldering outfit 



taken aAvay directly the spelter melts and runs. The 
flame should be directed upon the Avork until the spelter 
runs and adheres to the work in the form of a thin film. 
At this point the flame should be Avithdrawn, as there is 
great danger in burning the Avork if the flame is allowed 
to remain in contact Avith it too long. After the joint has 
become cool the superfluous borax may be scraped off 
and the joint tried for strength. 

In producing a good strong joint the pieces to be joined 
should not be brought together too closely, as the solder 
will not be able to run between them. By alloAving space 



Soldering and Brazing 



265 



enough for the solder to actually get into the crevice, a 
good strong joint is made. It is best to lay the work 
being soldered or brazed upon a small charcoal block. 
Such a block when it becomes heated will reflect the heat 
or centralize it instead of carrying it away. 

Another important matter is that of heating the pieces 
to be joined uniformly. If this is not done a sound joint 
will not result. Whether or not the pieces have been 
heated uniformly can be determined after the soldering 
is done by watching the work cool. If one piece stays red 
longer than the other this signifies that the work was not 



tSilver Solder 




Fig. 285 — Pellets of silver solder in place ready for melting 

heated uniformly and it will be best to make the joint 
over again. 

In brazing brass a little of the spelter used and a sam- 
ple of the brass to be soldered should be heated under 
the torch to determine whether or not the melting point 
of the brass is below^ that of the spelter. For spelter with 
a low melting point this need not be done for copper or 
steel, as the melting points of these substances are far 
beyond that of spelter. 

In silver soldering large pieces of work it will be neces- 
sary to use a small forge mth coke as fuel. After a 



266 Sho2) Practice for Home Mechanics 

"clean** fire is produced the work is put down in the hot- 
test part with the surfaces to be brazed facing- upward. 
The rest of the process is carried out in the ordinary 
manner. 

For very small work the little outfit shown at Fig. 284 
can be used successfully. The little blow pipe is placed 
in the mouth and the alcohol flame directed upon the work 
by means of blowing through the pipe. For small, deli- 
cate parts this is the only practical method. 

The method of soldering the ends of a model boiler 
in place is shoA\ai in Fig. 285. Sheet silver solder is used 
and this is cut into little pellets and placed as shown. 
The heat is applied until the pellets melt or fuse and 
blow into the joint. 



CHAPTER XII 

Construction of Small Power Driven Drill Press 

Design of machine — Drawings — Making the necessary patterns — 
Boring the spindle arm — Boring out table — Method of holding 
castings to lathe for boring — Use of special boring tool — Drilling 
— Boring bench clamp — Drilling spindle bearing — Reaming out 
spindle bearing — Machining pulleys ' on mandrel — Tapering pul- 
leys — Cutting keyway in spindle — Tapping — Polishing — Scraping 
— Finishing parts — Assembling. 

The construction of the drill press described in this 
chapter will give the amateur mechanic an opportunity 
to use the knowledge he has gained by studying the fore- 
running chapters of this volume. The author designed 
and constructed this drill press especially for use in con- 
nection with this book. When finished it will be found 
to be an extremely useful tool and an attractive addition 
to the workshop. It does not involve a great deal of 
labor, but the machining must be carried out very care- 
fully to assure perfect alignment and accuracy. 

Before starting the actual construction of the machine 
the mechanic is advised to give the detail and the assem- 
bly drawings, Fig. 286 and 287, a very careful study. 
This Avill give him an idea of the operations involved in 
the construction of the machine and the general line of 
procedure. 

The first thing to do is to construct the patterns. A 
study of the parts will show that three pieces (table, 
spindle-arm and bench clamp) each have a circular por- 
tion the same diameter and length. To save time and 

267 



268 



Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 



■Drill fo St/if W'D/a Ball k- - -^^ 




-l3'/3"- 
Spindle 
One-C.R.5 



:!_ 



■I'/g'^A 

■ Z'/z"' 



-V/s'Tap 



One-Brass 



%"Ream-' 




■—4'/z"- : 




'-Drill 8: Tap fory4-20 SetScr 
3 Holes 



-l/2"0/a-> 



W' 



fm 



Arm 
One-Cast Iron 



H--/^ 




-Vs"/!' 






^° ' H'^\7„ >^Dr//l£rap for '/4-ZO Fill HdScr 
^^'/.Sa.^ Holes. ^4 .^./^,_ 



1^ 




•'/4"R 



Bracket 
One-Cast Iron 



Fig. 286 — Details of the power bench drill described in this chapter 



Construction of Small Power Driven Drill Press 269 




Fig. 287A — Assembly drawing of the bench drill described in this 

chapter 



270 



Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 




Adjusting Plate 
One -Cast Iron 



%"Ream 
Pulley 
One -Cast Iron 



■7kR 



(b 



-'WDrill 



>'A"Y- -4'A"- 



Round Edge 



<- 



-^- 



■l6'/i"- - 
Handle 
One-Mcich.St 



■^^ 



-3"' 



^^> 



Ball-One-C.l. 



'<-^&rind to si/tt Oroofe /n Spind/e 
St d. 5 crew -Two -Brass 




C onstruction of Small Power Driven Drill Press 271 

trouble it will be well to turn up a piece of the proper 
diameter long enougli to cut these three pieces from so 
that it will not be necessary to go to the trouble of turn- 
ing up the individual pieces. This also holds true of the 
core prints which are of the same diameter for the three 
pieces. After a piece is turned to the proper diameter, 
the core prints are sawed off and used when the pieces 
are asseml)led into the complete pattern. The complete 
set, of patterns is shown at Fig. 288. Having cut the 
pieces mentioned, the pattern for the spindle arm can be 



4 


«'*i^^^'^ ,^^H|^^^H 



Fig. 288 — Patterns for the bench drill 

finished. The square portions mounted on the back of 
the spindle arm upon which the motor base rests are cut 
with one side rounded out to conform with the diameter 
of the piece upon which they are glued. The two square 
pieces that hold the spindle bearing are then cut and a 
square hole is cut to receive them in both the spindle 
bearing and the piece which slides over the standard. 
These holes can be cut by the aid of a sharp knife and 
the writer advises the builder to use care in seeing that 



272 Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 

a nice fit is produced. Before applyiiiii,- tlie glue, the 
square should be brought into use to make sure that these 
pieces are mounted properly, otlierwise the spindle bear- 
ing will be out of true and when it comes to drilling it out 
considerable trouble mil be had in producing a hole which 
will make the spindle run in alignment with the standard 
and at exact right angles to the drill table, which is ab- 
solutely essential if an accurate drilling machine is to be 
made. The core prints are then fastened to the center 
of the back joiece of the pattern by driving a little brad 
through their center and applying glue before they are 
finally put in place. It may" be necessary to drill a hole 
through the center of the core prints to prevent them 
from splitting when the brad is driven through. Tlie 
head of the brad should be driven in Avith a nail set and 
the resulting hole filled up Avith putty. Aside from sand- 
ptapering and shellacing, this pattern is finished and it 
may be set away to dry while Avork is continued on the 
remainder. 

The pattern for the drill table Avill be made next. The 
table portion of the pattern is made in two pieces, glued 
together with their grains running at right angles. The 
surfaces should be perfectly smooth and the glue is then 
applied. The pieces are held together Avitli clamps OA^er 
night. Contrary to the general impression, the more glue 
that is used the Aveaker the resulting job Avill be, there- 
fore the builder is cautioned to use a A^ery thin applica- 
tion of glue. AVhen the boards are taken from the clamps 
tliey are cut to the proper shape and the corners rounded 
off nicely. A slot is then cut in the circular portion of 
the pattern into AA^hich the laminated board is placed. 
The fit should be a tight one and by an application of 
glue before it is forced in, a A^ery secure joint Avill result. 



Construction of Small Poiver Driven Drill Press 273 

This finished, the thin piece or support which reinforces 
the whole pattern and resulting casting is put in place. 
The top of this piece has its corners rounded off nicely. 
At the thin end it is held by two small brads, and one at 
the thick end is driven into the back of the circular por- 
tion of the pattern. Further reinforcement is secured 
by smearing the piece with glue before it is finally put in 
place. When this is done, the projecting portion of the 
pattern, which is afterwards slit and which forms the 
clamping part of the finished casting, is put in ])lace. 
This is held by glue and small brads. It will be necessary 
to concave its surfaces with a circular file so that it will 
conform to the center diameter of the piece to wliicli it is 
fastened. When the core prints are put in j)lace this 
pattern is then set aside and work continued on the re- 
maining patterns. It might be well to mention at this 
point the necessity of putting the core prints in the exact 
center of the circular pieces. If this is not done the hole 
will be cored out of true in the resulting castings. The 
bench clamping piece is hot mentioned and by carefully 
examining Figs. 288 and 289 the necessary operations 
to produce this part will be evident, after having de- 
scribed the construction of the other patterns. When 
this pattern is finished the motor base can be produced. 
This is a laminated piece, built up of three separate 
pieces. The construction of it is best shoAvn in Fig. 290. 
The pulley is next turned up on the lathe and does not 
require much painstaking labor. Two pulleys are re- 
quired on the finished machine but the same pattern can 
be used to cast them both. Although the finished pulleys 
are tapered slightly, a straight pattern can be produced 
to facilitate matters as^the tapering can be machined on 
the pulley castings. 



274 



Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 



Having produced all the necessaiy patterns, attention 
is now directed to the production of the core box. The 
two Mocks or halves of the core box should first be cut 
out and squared up. They are then clamped together and 
placed in the vise. A hole is then bored out through 
their center Avith an auger and bit. The bit used should 
have a diameter a trifle smaller than that which the fin- 
ished core is to be. This is to allow for sand-papering, 
as the bit does not leave a w^ell-finished hole. After the 
hole has been properly finished up A\^th sandpaper, four 
brass pegs are driven do^AT^i into one-half of the core box 




Fig. 289 — The core box used for all of the cored patterns 

and four holes drilled in the other half. These are to 
lock the core-box halves. The finished core box is shown 
in Fig. 289. 

Having brought the patterns to shape they are all 
given a thorough sandpapering without sparing the 
proverliial elbow grease. The fillets are then formed 
with warm wax. After papering them do^^^l nice and 
smooth, they are all given a thin coat of shellac and set 
away to dry. When thoroughly. dry they are given an 
application of sandpaper and another coat of good 



Construction of Small Power Driven Drill Press 275 

orange or white shellac. This will leave them with a 
high, glossy surface, which will pull from the sand with- 
out allowing the sand to adhere. It should be mentioned 
here tiiat the core prints are painted black or red before 
the shellac is applied to them. 

AVhen the castings are received from the foundry they 
should be cleaned up with a bastard file and all the sand 
removed from their surfaces. 

The spindle arm can be machined first. Owing to the 
fact that the averag-e mechanic does not have a one-inch 




Fig. 290 — Method of construction used in making the pattern for 

the motor base 

drill or reamer in his shop, it will be necessary to bore 
out the cored hole of the casting with an especially made 
boring tool. The details of this tool are showni in Fig. 
291. The holder should be made of the best tool steel. 
Ordinary cold rolled steel will not serve the purpose as 
it does not have strength enough to resist the cutting 
action of the cutter during the boring. The tool used in 
the holder should be ground as depicted. It will be no- 
ticed that two set 'screws hold it in place, one at the side 
of the holder and one at the end. 

The problem of mounting the casting for boring must 
be considered. The lathe which the writer used did not 



276 SJiop Practice for Home Mechanics 

have a swing great enoiigli to accommodate the casting 
hj chucking it. Therefore, the ordinary procedure of 
boring could not be resorted to. It was necessary to 
mount the casting upon the slide rest of the lathe so that 
it would be held securely and so that it can be moved 
parallel with the lathe bed. The writer fully realizes that 
all lathes are not like the one upon Avhich this machining 
was done, but, A\dth few exceptions, the same general 
procedure can be followed. A study of Fig. 292 will re- 



f, „/ /oo/Sfee/--^., 



(I 





Sef Screws ■ 



Fig. 291 — A simple boring tool used in the boring work on the drill 

press parts 

veal the method of mounting the casting upon the cross 
slide. The block upon which the casting rests must be 
planed absolutely square and made the proper height, 
so that when the casting is bolted down the center of 
the boring tool will be in the center of the cored hole. 
This can be determined by setting the cutter so that it 
will just touch the edge of the cored hole. The lathe 
spindle can then be turned around a couple of times to 
determine whether or not the tool is revolving concen- 
trically with the hole in the casting. Before the boring 
is actually started, the casting should be tested Avith a 
machinist's level to determine whether or not it is level 
vn\\i the lathe bed and the tool. If this is not done a 
hole seriously out of true is apt to be bored whicli would 
destroy the casting. A level will be found on the aver- 
age machinist's square. The writer made this deter- 
mination, using the surface of the chuck as a basis to 



Construction of Small Power Driven Drill Press 



'in 



work from. If the casting is not level it can be brought 
to a level position by placing small bits of thin sheet cop- 
per nnder it. The belt should be tightened sufficiently so 
that the casting will not move when the boring tool starts 
to cut. 

The actual boring can now be proceeded with. The 
boring tool should be adjusted so that a very light cut 
will be taken first. The back gears of the lathe should 



ClarrD 




Fig. 292A — Showing how the casting is mounted to the cross sUde 

for boring 

be thrown in and the machine should be reduced to its 
lowest possible speed by changing the belt to the small 
cone pulley. The casting is advanced by moving the 
lathe carriage forAvard. The feed should be extremely 
slow. AYhen the tool protrudes at the opposite end, the 
lathe is stopped and the carriage run back to the position 
shown in Fig. 292, which shows the casting mounted in 
the lathe. The cutting tool is then adjusted again so 
that it will take a cut a little greater than the previous 
one. The same operation is repeated until the hole gets 
very near the desired diameter. This can be determined 
by a piece of one-inch stock Avhich can be used as a sort 
of gauge. Toward the end of the cutting, very light cuts 
should be made and if it is found that l)ut a very small 



278 



Shoi^ Practice for Ho me Mechanics 



amoimt'of metal is to be removed to make tlie test piece 
fit, the tool can be run through and made to return while 
the lathe is in motion and by advancing- the casting at 
the same speed as the ordinary feed. Thus the natural 
spring of the tool will remove a very small amount of 




Fig. 292 — The spindle bearing arm mounted on the lathe for boring 



metal on the return cut which will probably bring the 
hole to the exact diameter. The test piece should fit 
without any play. 

The piece is then removed and preparations made for 
drilling out the spindle bearing. To do this, the Avriter 
mounted the casting in the same manner but turned it 
over so that the bearing spindle came between the lathe 
centers. (See Fig. 293.) Before this operation, how- 
ever, the piece was centered up at each end and marked 
out in the proper manner. It was mounted so that when 
the lathe centers were put in place their points rested in 
the prick punch marks which marked the center of the 
spindle bearing. The casting was then tested mth a 



( 'oust ruction of Small Power Driven Drill Press 279 

level as above mentioned. This done, the centers of tlie 
lathe were removed and the chuck put in place and a 
small drill placed in it. The small drill is used to find the 
center, owing to the large Aveb of the %-in. drill. This 
done, the small drill is replaced with a large one. The 
drill pad is then placed in the tail stock spindle. It is to 
he understood that the drill used in drilling the %-in. 




Fig. 293A — Reaming out the spindle bearing 

hole must have its lips ground off as described in the 
chapter on drilling. The drilling is then proceeded with, 
with the back gears of the lathe in place. A very slow 
feed should be used, as it is quite a strain on the average 
small lathe to drill a hole of this diameter. After the 
drilling is done, the casting is again taken from its 
mounting and a %-in. reamer placed in the chuck of the 
lathe. The hole is then reamed out as shown in Fig. 293A. 
When the reamer has entered the casting as far as it 
will go, the casting should be turned around and the 
reamer allowed to enter the opposite end of the hole. 
Tliis method of reaming is followed out so that the 



280 Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 

reamer will follow the hole. The reamer is fed into the 
hole very slowly. 

The flat joortions of the casting npon which the motor 
base is nionnted are then drilled. Before this is done, 
however, they shonld be filed perfectly flat and square 
with the top of the casting. Tliis can be done by apply- 




Fig. 293 — Drilling out the spindle bearing 

ing the square as snown in Fig. 294. Filing should be 
continued until these surfaces are absolutely square and 
flat. The holes are then marked out, drilled and tapped 
with a 1/4-20 tap. A No. 7 drill is used. The same drill 
and tap are used in finishing the hole at the side of the 
casting which acconunodates the set screw. This opera- 
tion completely finishes the first casting, aside from 
enameling, which is not done imtil the complete machine 
is ready to assemble. 

The bench clamping piece can be machined next. 
Owing to the size and shape of this piece it will be pos- 



Construction of Small Poirer Driven Drill Press 281 

sible to mount it in the cliuelv and use the boring tool 
mounted in the tool post of the lathe. The casting is 
mounted as shown in Fig. 295. In mounting the boring- 
tool in the tool post it should be brought to the proper 



il||lllihiiihliil|l|li llililJi'.hliUlililihliLlihlJ hlj,l,Llil.lii'i1il,lilJil .l,i!lilJ.I.KIil.l.l 




iP| || f l 1TpiT | ffltlT I TI ' H| i WI ' f i ti| 'l t l 1W 'l | l'l' l1i | *' l > ll' Pf l < ' :1TlW !l' ifiT |i l ' PI1 ! P ^^ 



Fig. 294 — Squaring up the spindle bearing casting 

height so that the casting will revolve perfectly concen- 
tric with it. It should also be clamped tightly in the tool 




Fig. 295 — The bench clamp casting mounted for boring 

post to prevent it from revolving as the end of the tool 
which is held in the tool post is round. The first cut 
sliould be a very light one and the second one a little 



282 Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 

heavier. In fact, the l)oring- is carried out as it was 
with the spindle arm with tlie exception that the feed is 
not adjusted in the same way. Owing to the fact that 
the boring tool is mounted in the tool post the feed is 
adjusted by moving the cross slide and it is not neces- 
sary to move the tool in the holder. When the boring 
has been finished, the casting is removed and the holes in 
the plate through which the screws pass to hold it to 
the bench are marked out, drilled and countersunk. The 
next operation should be performed very carefully. It 
is that of splitting the projection at the side of the cast- 
ing with a hacksaw. First, the dividers should be ad- 
justed and a line scratched along the middle of the pro- 
jecting piece to act as a guide for the hacksaw. The 
casting is then put in the vise and the cut made with the 
hack saw. It will be necessary to manipulate the saAv 
very carefully at the starting of the cut so that it will 
cut straight. By using a little care the author Avas able 
to cut the casting almost perfect. The holes are now 
marked out and drilled for the clamping screws. First 
a No. 7 drill is used. When this is put through it is 
followed up to the half-w^ay mark with a % drill 
which makes a clearance hole for the No. 1/4-20 machine 
screw which is used to tighten or clamp the piece about 
^.he standard. When the clearance hole is made the 1/4-20 
tap is used to produce the threads in the smaller hole. 
This operation finishes the bench-clamping piece. 

The hardest work on the whole drill press now^ pre- 
sents itself. It is that of boring out the hole in the table. 
Of course, this particular job is not so difficult if the 
amateur has a lathe with a smng great enough to accom- 
modate it. It will, however, become a troublesome job 
if a lathe this size is not at hand. It is on jobs such as 



Construction of Smalt Poire r Driven Drill Press 283 

this that the mechanic must use his mind and study the 
Avork before him before he attempts to accomplish his 
end. It is evident that it is necessary to mount this cast- 
ing upon the cross slide as was done in machining the 
spindle arm. The set-up for this job is shown at Fig. 




Clamp 



Carriaqe 
Bolt 



, Angle 
"""'Plate 



Fig. 296 — How blocks are used to mount, the drilling table for boring 



296 and more clearly at Fig. 297. It will be seen that the 
lathe angle plate is first clamped to the cross slide. 
AVhen the lathe angle plate is bolted tightly in place, it 
should be tested wdtli the level to determine whether or 
not it is true. The square should also be used in making 
sure that the angle plate is sitting at exact right angles 
to the lathe bed. This done, the casting is ready to be 
mounted. The blocks used between the angle plate and 
the casting must be planed down so that they are per- 
fectly true. The two strips of clamps which strap the 
casting to the angle plate should be cut from hard wood. 



284 



Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 



otherwise they would be aj^t to snap when the clamps are 
bolted tightly. Before the clamping bolts are tightened, 
the casting should be brought into a concentric position 




Fig. 297 — The drilling table of the drill press mounted in the lathei 

for boring 

in relation to the cutting tool which is in the chuck. It 
may be necessary to place a couple of small blocks under 
the casting to bring it to this position. When in this 
position, the adjusting screws on the cross slide of the 
lathe should be tightened so that there will be no danger 
of its moving through accident. The boring is then douQ 
in the usual manner. The casting is then removed and 
the projecting side pieces split with a hack saw in the 
manner previously described. It is also drilled and 



Construction of Small Poiver Driven Drill Press 285 

tapped in the same waj^ The remaining operation, aside 
from enameling, is that of grinding the surfaces of the 
table. The Avriter did not have the facilities for doing- 




Fig. 298 — The pulleys mounted for facing 



this and he knows that the average amateur mechanic 
will not have the necessary equipment to perform this 
operation. This piece was therefore taken to a local 
machine shop where the job was done on a surface 
grinder and the charge was $1.00. This gives a perfectly 
smooth and true surface. 

The pulleys can now be machined. The first operation 
is that of drilling out the hubs preparatory to mounting 
them on a mandrel. To do this thev are mounted in the 



286 Sliop Practice for Home Mechanics 

chuck and drilled out with an 11/32-in. drill which is 
mounted in the drill chuck placed in the tail stock spin- 
dle. This is followed with a %-in. reamer. (Note: This 
is a very convenient set to have on hand.) A piece of 
%-in. cold rolled steel about 6 in. long is now mounted 
in the lathe and faced off true at each end. The center- 
ing drill is also used on each end of the piece to produce 
the proper centers for the lathe. The pulleys are then 
forced upon the mandrel and mounted in the lathe as 
shoM^n in Fig. 298. Owing to the fact that the surfaces 
of the pulleys taper in opposite directions, the back cen- 
ter of the lathe is off-set about % of an inch. This is 
done by loosening the set screw on the tail stock. After 
the center is off-set the proper distance the set screw is 
again tightened. A diamond-point tool is then used in 
turning down the pulleys. Owing to the fact that the 
pulleys are mounted off center for taper turning, it will 
be found that the tool cuts only at one side. This side 
of the pulley is turned do^^m until the cut reaches the 
center or a little over. The mandrel is tlien taken out 
of the lathe and turned completely around with the dog 
mounted on the opposite end. This brings the opposite 
side of the pulley into cutting position. This is then 
turned do"wn in the same way as the otlier sides. The 
second cut should be so regulated that the two tapers 
meet exactly in the center of the pulley. The mandrel is 
then taken from the lathe and the back center brought to 
its proper position. This can be easily done by mounting 
the live center in the head stock and adjusting the tail 
stock center until the two points exactly meet. The man- 
drel with the pulley is again placed in the lathe and the 
surfaces given a further finish by the use of a smooth 
file. After the file is used, the surfaces should be pol- 



Construction of Small Poiver Driven Drill Press 287 

islied with fine grit Carborundum cloth. The pulleys are 
then laid away for future use. 

The standard of the machine is cut from a piece of 
standard one-inch cold rolled stock. Half of the top is 
cut away with a hack saw as shown in the drawing. This 
should be marked out first so that the lines can be fol- 
lowed with the hack saw. After the piece is cut out the 




Fig. 298A— The lathe tool in place for cutting the key-way 

surfaces are finished up with a smooth file and the hole 
shown drilled. The standard should then be mounted in 
the lathe using the center rest. When revolving at high 
speed, it can be polished with fine grit Carborundum 
cloth. After it is nicely polished it should be carefully 
wiped off with a piece of waste soaked in machine oil. 
This will prevent it from being attacked by moisture and 
it will also cause the casting which slides over it to move 
freelv Avithout sticking. 



288 Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 

The drilling- spindle can be made at this time. It is a 
piece of %-in. cold rolled stock. It is mounted in the 
lathe with the center rest and a keyway is cut as men- 
tioned in Chapter VII. (See Fig. 298 A.) The cutting 
tool should be % inch Avide. Very light cuts should be 
taken until the tool goes sufficiently deep into the metal 
to guide itself. It will be found necessary to sharpen 
the tool several times when this job is being done. After 
the keyA\^ay is cut and while the spindle is still mounted, 
the groove shown in the drawing is cut with a round- 
nosed tool. It is well to mention here that the stock from 
which the spindle is cut should be li/o in, longer than 
necessary. This is important because the cutting tool, 
which is used to produce the groove, cannot be brought 
very close to the center rest. After the groove is cut, 
the shaft is again taken out of the lathe. It will then be 
necessary to take the center rest off and also the lathe 
carriage. The center rest is then put on first and fol- 
lowed by the lathe carriage. The sliaft is then mounted 
in the center rest and the superfluous stock cut off. It 
will be seen that it is impossible to bring the cutting tool 
to the proper position for cutting off the end of the 
spindle unless the position of the lathe carriage and cen- 
ter rest are reversed. The ''dimple" which accommo- 
dates the ball bearing is then made with a %-in. drill. 
(See Fig, 298B,) The spindle is then turned around and 
the end of it threaded to receive the drill chuck. The 
pitch of the thread cut Avill be determined by the chuck 
used. A small chuck can be purchased from drill manu- 
facturers and the mechanic is not advised to try to make 
one himself. It is not worth the time and trouble when 
one can be had for about $3.00. 

The handle which actuates the drill press is now made. 



Construction of Small Power Driven Drill Press 289 

This is such a simple part of the machine that it seems 
needless to describe the operations involved in making it. 
The socket is now made in which the upper end of the 
spindle revolves. This particular part is shown in the 
detail drawing of the drill. There is nothing very un- 
usual about the construction of this piece as it only in- 




Fig. 298B — Drilling the dimple in the end of the spindle 

volves a few^ simple lathe operations which can be deter- 
mined by a glance at the drawing. After the slot is cut 
with a hack saw it should be filed nice and smooth so 
that there will be no danger of friction between it and 
the handle. Before the slot is cut out, the holes which 
accommodate the screw which holds the handle in place 
should be drilled. The piece should also be polished up 
nicely to finish it. 

The base of the motor can be finished at this point. 



290 



Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 



There is very little work to be done on it. The mechanic 
will be able to test his accuracy in flat filing by bringing 
the slide or raised portion of the base to as near a perfect 
plane as possible. The holes or slots through which the 
holding screws pass are then finished with a small flat 
file and a round file. The motor which the writer used 
had a detachable base and therefore the little block shown 




Fig. 299 — How the motor base piece is ground 



in the drawing was placed between the motor and the 
base just described. The block was ground out to ac- 
commodate the contour of the motor. This was done by 
the aid of a small grinding wheel which happened to be 
at hand and which was about the same diameter as the 
motor base. The method of grinding is sho^\m in Fig. 
299. After this piece is ground, a clearance hole is drilled 
in it for a No. 1/4-20 machine screw. A hole in the motor 
base' is drilled out and counter-sunk as shown in the 



Construction of Small Power Driven Drill Press 291 

drawing. This hole is to accommodate a filister head, 

14-20 machine screw which holds the motor to the base. 

One of the pullej^s is now drilled and reamed out to fit 

on the drill spindle. This of course, is done with the 




Fig. 300 — The finished drill ready for work 

same drill and reamer that was used in cutting the spin- 
dle bearing. AVlien this is done the pulley is mounted 
in the vise and a keyAvay cut in it with a small hack saw. 



292 



Shop Practice for Iluiae Mechanics 



This kej^ray should have the same width as the keyway 
in the spindle. Two slots the width of the keyway are 
cut with a hack saw and the superfluous metal between 
them chipped out with a narrow chisel. A small key is 
then cut out and it should be forced in the keyway of the 
pulley. The opposite half of the key should lie filed just 




Fig. 300A — A close-up view of the motor 



a little smaller so that it will slip freely into the keyway 
of the spindle. 

All the castings of the machine are now carefully 
enameled and set away to dry. When they are dry the 
assembling of the machine can be proceeded with. This 
will be made very clear by studying the assembly draw- 



Construction of Small Power Driven Press 293 

ing and the photograph of the complete machine which 
appears in Fig. 300 and 300A. The pulley which fits on 
the motor shaft will probably have to be plugged with a 
piece of brass and drilled out mth a proper-sized drill. 
The hole is also then drilled and tapped for the set screw. 
After the machine is assembled, the belt should be cut and 
laced. When this is done the machine is ready for work. 



CHAPTER XIII 

Construction of a Small Grinding Head 

Patterns — Design — Castings — Preparation of castings for machining 
— Drilling the main casting — Machining pulley — Turning bearing 
— Making shaft — Machining flange — iFinishing — Assembly. 



The little grinding' head described in this chapter will 
make a very suitable and useful addition to the small 
sliop and it can be produced with very little labor. Only 
two castings are used in the whole machine, one for the 
frame and one for the pulley. Therefore two patterns 
must be produced. The castings necessary for the ma- 
chine are shown in Fig. 301. In producing this machine 
the author found it possible to use the pulley pattern 
contained in the set of patterns for the drill press, owing 



Jf^ii . . 



Fig. 301 — The necessary castings for the grinding head 

294 



Construction of Small Grinding Head 



295 



to the fact that the shaft of the machine described is % 
in, in diameter. 

When the casting is received, the first operation will 
be that of cleaning it up with a bastard file. The corners 
of the file should be worked into the corners of the cast- 
ing to scrape all the moulding sand and scale out. After 
this is done, the circular portion of the casting is marked 
out preparatory to drilling. The center is then made 
with a smaller drill and this is replaced in the chuck with 
a one-inch drill which is used in boring the hole. The 



Cars h'ngr^ 



.Drill Pad 




Fig. 302 — Drilling out the bearing of the grinding head 

back gears are thrown in for this operation and the small 
pulley used. A drill of this size is just about the limit on 
a small lathe and the feed should be very slow. The lips 
of the drill should also be ground off before starting to 
drill the hole. The opposite end of the casting rests 
against the drill pad as shown in Fig. 302. 

The drawing of the complete machine and its various 
parts is shown at Fig. 303. A study of the drawing mil 
reveal the extreme simplicity of the little device. 

After the two holes are drilled for the holding down 
screw^s in the base of the casting, it should be set aside 
and work started on the brass bushing which fits into the 
hole just drilled. The brass stock used in turning the 
bushing should first be turned down to size. The bush- 



296 Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 

ing should fit snugly in the hole. A forced fit is not abso- 
lutely necessary unless the mechanic is well able to pro- 
duce it as it is possible to hold the bushing in place with 
a couple of pins, although this is not shown in the draw- 
ing. After the piece has been turned do"\\Ti to size a 
%-in. drill is placed in the tail stock spindle and the cen- 
ter drilled out for a distance of three inches. The part- 
ing tool is then placed in the tool post and the bushing 
cut off 2% in. long. It is then mounted in the chuck and 
reamed out with a % reamer. The reamer should be fed 
in slowly and it will be found that a nice smooth surface 
will result. The bushing can now be placed in the hole 
in the casting. If a forced fit has not been produced, two 
small holes can be drilled in the top of the casting 
through the bushing and a couple of brass pins inserted. 
If the pins protrude in the inside of the bearing the 
reamer can be carefully run through to cut them off. A 
file should then be used in flushing off the ends of the 
bushing with the casting. In fact, it is best to cut the 
bushing a little long so that it will protrude a little at 
each end. A much better appearing job is produced 
when the bushing can be filed down flush Avith the surface 
of the casting. If it is necessary to resort to pins to 
secure the bushing in place it will be best to drill the oil 
hole before the reamer is inserted so that the burr left 
will be taken off. The oil hole is counter-sunk with a 
larger drill or a regular counter-sink. 

The pulley is machined next. This is accomplished as 
described in Chapter XII and the writer believes this 
will be too fresh in the mechanic's mind to require a repe- 
tition. After being machined, the pulley is placed in the 
chuck and drilled and reamed out with a %-in. reamer. 
An 11/32-in. drill is used to produce the hole. The drill 



Construction of Small Grinding Head 297 







'•3 



bo 



-n^'/S- 



298 Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 

pad is then placed in tlie tail stock of the lathe and by 
the aid of a large V-block the hole for the set screw is 
drilled in the pulley with a No. 26 drill and tapped out 
to receive a 1-24 machine screw. The hole is counter- 
bored with a 14-inch drill to accommodate the filister 
head of the machine screw used. This operation finishes 
the pulley and attention Avill now be directed to tlie spin- 
dle. The spindle is turned from a piece of 2-in. cold 
rolled steel stock 7 in. long. One end of this piece should 
first be mounted in the chuck, faced up, and one center 
drilled out with a centering drill. The center of the 
lathe is then placed in the center hole in the stock and 
the turning started. The major portion of the stock 
can be cut away with a diamond-pointed tool. It will be 
necessary to use both the right and left-hand tool as the 
spindle is divided into two parts by the flange. After the 
spindle has been turned within a thousandth of an inch 
t)f its final diameter, the remaining stock can be taken off 
with the Carborundum cloth as a polished finish is essen- 
tial to reduce the friction and it would lie impossible to 
produce a suitable surface by the aid of the lathe cutting- 
tool. When this is done, tlie parting tool is placed in the 
tool post and the piece cut off. It is then mounted in the 
chuck and threaded. The writer used the same thread on 
this piece as he used on the drill press as it is often con- 
venient to use a drill chuck on the grinding head in pol- 
ishing small pieces of circular stock. It will be remem- 
bered that the diameter of the spindle in the grinding 
head and the spindle in the drill press are the same, 
therefore this plan is feasible. The nut is turned up, 
bored out and drilled. Two flat surfaces are then made 
by samng off opposite sides and finishing them with a 
file. From the remainder of the stock from which the 



Construction of Small Grinding Head 299 

spindle was cut the loose flange is turned to shape. The 
hole in the flange is drilled out with a %-in drill a trifle 
over size so that it will fit over the spindle freely with- 
out causing damage to the threads. The hole in this 
member should really be about 41/64. 

The parts of the machine are now ready to be as- 
sembled. Before the final assembling is done, however, 
the main casting should be carefully enameled as well as 
the sides of the pulley. The spindle is placed in the 
bushing and the pulley placed on the oj)posite end. The 
pulley should not be crowded too close to the bushing be- 
fore the set screw is tightened as this will cause the spin- 
dle to bind. There should really be about 1/32 in. play. 
It will be seen that the abrasive wheel is put in place 
between the flanges and held with a nut. The reader is 
cautioned not to squeeze the Avheel too tightly and it is 
best to use two little circular pieces of blotter between 
the flanges and the wheel. If the bushing on the wheel is 
too large or if it is impossible to get a wheel of the de- 
sired grit and bond with a %-in. bushing, one with a 
larger bushing can be purchased and fitted with a brass 
or wooden bushing which m^II go over the spindle. 

A word may be said about driving the machine. If a 
line shaft is in the shop, a pulley at least ten times the 
diameter of the pulley on the spindle should be used. 
This speed may be a trifle too high for the efficient oper- 
ation of most grinding wheels, but it is necessary if pol- 
ishing is to be done. Therefore, it is best to operate the 
machine at this speed at all times and sacrifice the little 
cutting efficiency which mil result so that polishing can 
be done. Small rag wheels suitable for this little grind- 
ing head can be purchased at polisher's supply houses 
and they are fastened in place in the same manner as the 



300 



Sho]7 Practice for Home Mechanics 



grinding wheel. As it is best to use as large a polishing 
wheei as possible, it may be advisable to cut out a couple 
of wooden flanges to be used with such a wheel, owing 
to the fact that the flanges on the grinder are too small. 
If an independent motor is used to drive the grinding 
head it should deliver at least 1/16 H.P. A controlling 





c 








1 1 1 1 1 








C 


J 









TZZ-^^. 



f- 



7S~-J 



T 



\ \ , 




Fig. 303A — The assembled grinding head 

rheostat would also be a very suitable addition to the 
outfit so that various speeds could be produced and the 
grinding wheel operated at that specified velocity as 
noted on tlie tag attached to it when purchased. 



CHAPTER XIV 

General Information 

How to read mechanical drawings — General or assembly drawings — 
Detail drawings — Sectional drawings — Lines and what they mean 
—Abbreviations — A. S. M. E. screw standards— Drills to use for 
taps — S. A. E. standards — Grinding wheel grades — Table of allow- 
ances for driving, running forced and pushed fits — Miscellaneous 
mathematical information. 

In this chapter the author has included such infor- 
mation and tables as he thought would prove useful to 
the mechanic in his shop work. It is intended to support 
the forerunning portion of the book as a handy reference 
for general information. 

Few 3^oung mechanics know how to read a drawing 
properly. The following notes will do much to make this 
clear with very little study on the part of the reader. 

A general or assembly drawing shows all the parts of 
the machine or device located in the proper position and 
just as they mil be on the finished machine. It is really 
a detailed picture of the machine as it will appear when 
finished. Such dra\\dngs are alwaj^s made to scale ; they 
are reduced to one quarter, one-half or one-third size, 
depending upon the size of the device. Some machines 
are so small that they are draA^m full size. When a ma- 
chine is drawn to a certain scale, the scale is always men- 
tioned in the comer of the sheet. 

A detail dramng shows the separate parts of a 
machine and how they are to be finished. The smaller 

301 



302 



SJiop Practice for Home Mechanics 



details or parts are generally massed together on one 
sheet while the larger details may require a whole sheet. 
Detail drawings are always dimensioned. 

Sectional drawings show assembled parts and separate 
parts. Sectional means that they are drawn to show just 
how the part looks through the center or as if the piece 
or pieces had been sliced through the center. Sectional 
drawings are really the most important from the mechan- 
ic 's standpoint, as the)^ give most of the necessary in- 




Ccts+ Iron 





Steel 



Copper 



''''^'■/<<<<'^/\ 






Lead 




Brass or Bronie 




White Alloys 




Aluminum 




Fig. 304 — How the different metals are represented on a mechanical 

drawing 



formation. The cross-section of different metals is rep- 
resented by different lines. (See Fig. 304.) 

A real complete drawing always includes a list of 
screws and bolts to be used on the assembled machine 
and parts. Although such a list is not really important, 
it greatly facilitates matters for the mechanic. 

Different lines on a drawing each have meanings of 
their own. The commonly used lines are sho^\^l in Fig. 
305 together with their meaning. 

Abbreviations are used extensively in mechanical 



General Information 303 

drawing and the mechanic must be entirely familiar with 
their meaning. The following list includes all of the con- 
ventional abbreviations used: 

Scrape. — Surface is to be scraped by hand. 

R.H.— Right hand. 

Finish. — Surface is to be finished. 

L.H. — Left hand. 

" — Inches. 

'—Feet. 

Grind. — Surface is to be ground. 

W.I. — Wrought iron. 

C.I. — Cast iron. 

M.S. — Machine steel. 

T.S.— Tool steel. 

C.R.S.— Cold rolled steel. 

C.S. — Carbon steel. 

H.S.S. — High speed steel. 

Bore. — Hole to be bored. 

Ream. — Hole to be reamed out. 

Tap. — Hole to be tapped. 

Drill. — Hole to be drilled. 

Thd.— Thread. 

Rad. — Radius. 

U.S.S. — United States standard. 

Dia. — Diameter. 

A very useful table and data sheet for machine screws 
up to No. 14 is shown in Fig. 306. As mentioned in the 
Preface, the author is inde])ted to Mr. Dwight S. Simp- 
son for this splendid piece of work. The author takes 
the liberty of quoting Mr. Simpson directly: 

*'A glance at the table shows that it is not so simple 
to buv a screw as it might seem. For instance, we ask 



304 Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 

the clerk for a No. 5 screw. Doubtless we know whether 
we want a counter-sunk head, round head, flat or oval 
filister head (hex. heads we have to niake ourselves from 
commercial hex. rod, as indicated in column 'fifteen), 
but we are liable to get a thread of 30, 32, 36, 40 or 44 
pitch. Possibly we may get the so-called United States 
standard thread, but we might get a ''V" thread which 
may be ''exact" or "oversize," the amount of oversize 
being governed by the idiosyncrasies of the firm that 
made the screw. Thus, there can be thirty or more quite 
different screws all of which are rightly called No. 5. 
Therefore, it is necessary to select a thread and the 

Fu// L fne 



Dot fee/ Line 



Center Line 



Dimension Line 



5hiade Line 



Fig- 305 — Different lines in mechanical drawing 

question is, "Wliich?" Bill Jones will, of course, get 
the thread that will fit a tap which he has — probably 
purchased in tlie above haphazard manner. This is pos- 
sibly all right, but trouble comes when Bill does a little 
work for Tom Smith. Tom's tap is for a different 
thread. 

It will be interesting to the amateur to learn that this 
trouble occurred in many big shops, and years ago some 
engineers got together and after much theorizing and 
talk formulated rules and established dimensions for 



General lufornuition 



305 





IS 

P 

10 


CO z 
r (V 


0! i 

I: 

a 


So 


-1 




r^-i 


fcUJ C 


^ 


^ 


\- 








^' 


■^T^ 


^^-{ 


■A 

' D 


B " 


E. 




A 


e> 


C 


B 


C 


B 


c 




o 


80 


060O 


5 2 


56 


.1120 


0290 


I06O 


.0420 


0894 


.0376 


.0496 


.1200 


.1386 


1/8 


20 




1 


64- 


0730 


48 


53 


1380 


0370 


1300 


.0510 


.1107 


.0461 


.0609 


.1460 


.1686 


V32 


SO 




rt.5.M£ 


72 






53 


























2 


46 


0842 


44 


50 


1631 


0454 


.1544 


.0672 


I350 


.0549 


.0675 


.1664 


.1945 


V32 


?7 






56 






49 


























flSME 


64 






48 


























3 


40 


0973 


39 


49 


1894 


053O 


.1786 


0746 


1561 


.0634 


.078O 


1946 


.2248 


\^ 


48 






48 






47 


























A&ME 


56 






45 


























4 


32 


.1105 


33 


46 


.2155 


0605 


.2028 


.0820 


.1772 


.0720 


.0886 


.2210 


.2553 


%i 


57 






36 






45 




























40 






44 


























fl,5ME 


48 






43 


























5 


30 


.1236 


30 


43 


.24 21 


0681 


.2270 


.0894 


.1984 


0806 


.0992 


2472 


2655 


^4 


75 






32 




'/8 


42 




























36 






41 




























40 






39 


























ftSME 


44 






38 


























6 


30 


1366 


28 


36 


.2684 


.gr757 


.2512 


.0966 


.2195 


0692 


.1097. 


.2736 


.3i60 


»/^2 


a&. 






32 






37- 




























36 






36 


























flSME, 


40 






35 


























7 


30 


.I50O 


24 


33 


2947 


.OB32 


.2754 


.I042 


.2406 


.0978 


.1203 


.300O 


.3465 


\l 


112 






32 






32 


























fl.SM.E 


36 






31 


























8 


24 


.1631 


19 


3 1 


.32IO 


.0908 


2996 


1116 


.2617 


I063 


.1306 


.3262 


.3768 


'Ai 


14 a 






30 






31 




























32 






30 


























flSME 


3fi 






29 


























9 


24 


.1763 


16 


30 


.3474 


09 84 


.3238 


.1190 


.2628 


.1149 


.1414 


3326 


.4073 


%7 


162 






28 






28 




























30 






28 


























flAME 


32 






26 


























10 


24 


.1894 


1 1 


26 


3737 


.I059 


.3480 


.1264 


30 4C 


.1235 


.1520 


3786 


.4375 


%' 


186 




flSMX 


30 






24 




























32 






24 


























12 


20 


.2158 


ViZ 


24 


.4263 


.1210 


.3922 


.1412 


.3462 


1407 


.1731 


.4316 


4965 


'4" 


240 






22 






20 




























24 






19 


























rtSMC 


28 






18 


























14 


20 


.2421 


W 


l5 


.4790 


.1362 


.4364 


1560 


.3864 


.1578 


.1942 


.4842 


5592 


'/2" 


306 






22 






1 1 


























rtSMC 


24 






lO 


























16 


16 


.2684 


1 


12 


.5316 


.I5J3 


.4806 


.1706 


.4307 


.1750 


.2153 


5368 


.6200 


%■ 


388 






18 






8 




























20 






7 


' 
























rtSMf 


22 




1 3 


























FOB FUL 


L STRENQTM -T 


MRCrtDS SHOULD TAKE. MOLD 1 


JiA -fOlfl OF SCREW) 1 



Fig. 306 — Data chart for machine screws up to No. 14 



306 



Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 



screws from to 30 (nominal size), which have been 
known ever since as the American Society of Mechanical 
Engineers (or A. S. AL E.) standard. It will be seen by 
the table that these are fine pitch threads compared to 
the others of their size. This is advisable, as fine threads 
reduce the tendency to shake and do not reduce the 
strength of the screw. (Where fine work is required, such 
as in our model and experimental machines, I believe it is 
impossible to use too fine a thread.) 

Now let us see what we get when we buy a No. 5 
A. S. M. E. screw. First it has a U. S. standard form of 
thread with a pitch of 44 threads per inch. Maximum 
and minimum dimensions are specified as follows: 



Outside Biam. 

Maximum 125 

Minimum 1210 

Difference 0040 

Pitch Diam. 

Maximum . . . . : , 1102 

Minimum 1082 

Difference 0020 

Root Diam. 

Maximum 0955 

Mininmm 0910 

Difference 0045 



General Infonnation 307 

The A. S. M. E. taps for this screw are similarly regu- 
lated as follows : 



Outside Diam. 

Maximum 1301 

Minimum 1263 



Difference 0038 

Pitch Diam. 

Maximum 1129 

Minimum 1116 

Difference 0013 

Root Diam. 

Maximum 0995 

Minimum 0968 

Difference 0027 



Now if we had the largest allowable tap and the 
smallest allowable screw, we would have a screw of diam- 
eter .121 in. in a tapped hole .1301 in, whose root diam- 



308 Sliop Practice for Home Mechanics 

eter is .1015 (controlled by drill size 38, as per table). 
Not much chance for shake there, and if the tap was 
made in Maine and the screw in California, this is the 
worst condition we could have. 

The same idea has been followed by the Automobile 
men (Society of Automotive Engineers) in fractional 
sizes from I/4 in. up (S. A. E. standard), and so we can 
run the whole gamut of screw and bolt sizes and still 
stick to a recognized standard form of thread and pitch. 

You will ask, "Where does all this help us and how?" 
Suppose we all own the same kind of taps and dies (a 
standard of our own). Now if Bill designs and builds a 
nice little model he wishes to have us all know about it 
and straightway tells our editor. In due time said de* 
sign appears in the magazine and Bill can send us his 
castings, together with bolts and nuts that we can use 
without buying a few extra taps for the purpose. (I 
feel very strongly about this, Mr. Editor, having just 
invested some "hard earned" in taps to utilize a few spe- 
cial fittings.) 

Of course, we all agree on the beauties and advan- 
tages of the scheme, so what shall we use as tlie stand- 
ard? There is the S. A. E. from 14 in. up, conflicting 
with screw sizes from 16 to 30 (which are rarely used). 
Below 1/4 in., where we model men mostly Avork, we can 
descend by approximately 1/64 in. steps by A. S. M. E. 
screw^ sizes to 14 to 0. Taps, dies, screws, bolts and nuts 
of these standards can be bought at almost any hard- 
ware store or garage and the difference in diameter of 
two sizes are so close as to eliminate all screw threading 
on the lathe. So then let us tabulate from recognized 
engineering standards, the following compound stand- 
ard, sufficient to cover all our wants, which I will call : 



General Information 309 



The Standard Thread 

Threads 

Size per incl^ 

A. S. M. E. 80 

1 72 

2 64 

3 56 

4 48 

5 44 

6 40 

(' 7 36 

8^'''' 36 

9 32 

10 30 

12 28 

14 24 

1/^ 28 

5/16 24 

% 24 

'' 7/16 20 

i/o 20 

9/i6 18 

% 18 



AVith this suggested disposal of the entire thread ques- 
tion, we can start our collective mechanical lives on a 
true engineering basis and leave our agile minds free 
for more important Avork. 

The table in Fig. 308 will prove useful on many occa- 



310 



Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 



TABLE OF ALLOWANCES FOR DIFFERENT FITS 



Diameter, Inches 


Running Fits 


Push Fits 


Up to y2 
.3^ to 1 

1 to 2 

2 to 3 

3 to 4 

4 to 5 

5 to 6 


-0.00075 to -0.0015 
-0.001 to -0.002 
-0.0015 to -0.0025 
-0.0015 t3 -0.003 

-0.002 to -0.0035 
-0.0025 to -0.004 
-0.0025 to -0.0045 


-0.00025 to -0.00075 
-0.0005 to -0.001 
-0.0005 to -0.0015 
-0.0005 to -0.0015 

-0.00075 to -0.002 
-0.00075 to -0.002 
-0.00075 to -0.002 


Diameter, Inches 


Driving Fits 


Forced Fits 


Up to H 

y2to 1 

lto2 

2 to 3 

3 to 4 

4 to 5 

5 to 6 


+0.0004 to +0.0003 
+0.0005 to +0.001 
+0.00075 to +0.002 
+0.0015 to +0.003 

+0.002 to +0.004 
+0.002 to +0.0045 
+0.003 to +0 005 


+0.0005 to +0.001 
+0.001 to +0.003 
+0.002 to +0.004 
+0.003 to +0.006 

+0.005 to +0.008 
+0.008 to +0.010 
+0.008 to +0.012 



Fig. 307 



sions. It gives the percentages of the metals used to 
make the common alloys. By the nse of this information, 
the mechanic can make all of his alloys with a low-melt- 
ing point in the little smelting furnace described in Chap- 
ter IX. 

The grinding wheel grade list below will be found very 
helpful in choosing a Avheel for a certain purpose. The 
list of the two leading abrasive manufacturers is in- 
cluded owing to the fact that their wheels are on sale at 
all large hardware stores. 

The second-grade scale is entirely different from the 
one just given and it has absolutely no relation to the 
first, being that of anotlier manufacturer. 

The table of decimal ec[uivalents given in Fig. 309 Avill 
be found extremely useful when making measurements 
with the micrometer. It gives the decimal equivalents 



General Inforination 311 

NORTON WHEELS 

(Cry stolon and Alundum) 

E Soft 

F 
G 
H 

I Medium soft 

J 

K . 
L 

M Medium 

N 

P 
]\Iedium liard. .Q 
R 
S 
T 

Hard U 

V 
W 
X 
Y 
Extremely hard Z 



for all of the common fractions from one-eighth to 
sixty- three sixty-fourths. 

Another valuable table is given in Fig. 307. This gives 



312 Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 

(Carl)oriindum and Aloxite) 

Very hard D 

E 
F 

Hard G 

G 
H 
H 
I 

Medium hard I 

J 
K 
L 

Medium ]\I 

N 


Medium soft P 

R 
S 

Soft T 

U 
V 

Ven^ soft W 

X 
Y 
Verv, very soft Z 



the correct allowances for running, driving, push and 
forced fits. It will be understood that to arrive at these 
measurements it requires great skill and very careful ma- 



General Information 



313 



PERCENTAGES OF METALS USED IN DIFFERENT ALLOYS 





a 
o 

S 

c 
< 


s 


u 

a; 


c 
o 


-a 

03 


"a! 






Brass (Common) 


50 
15 

28.4 


25 
15 


61.6 

32 

20 

8 
91.7 

2 

20.2 

4 
40.5 
3.7 
1 


6.5 


2.9 
1.37 
70 

3.7 


7.9 
15.8 


0.2 

1.5 

2.5 

1 

1.7 

25 
1.3 

1 

9.2 
14.2 


35 3 


Brass (For Roiling) 


in 


Brass Castings (Common) 


1 25 


Gun Metal . . : 




Bronze 


5.53 


German Silver 


6.3 


Britannia Metal 




Chinese White Copper 


12.7 


Pattern Letters 




Bell Metal 




Chinese Gongs 


3 


White Metal 


1 7 


Spelter 




Type Metal 





Fig. 308 

nipulation of the tools. Where the allowance is ex- 
tremely small, lapping should be resorted to. 

The following mathematical helps may prove useful at 
times, especially if one's memory of school problems is 
growing dim and it generally does unless work of this 
nature is done occasionally. 

To find the circumference of a circle, multiply the 
diameter by 3.1416. 

To find the diameter of a circle, multiply the circum- 
ference by .31831. 

To find the area of a circle, multiply the square of the 
diameter by .7854. 

To find the surface of a sphere, multiply the square of 
the diameter by .31416. 

To find the number of cubic inches (volume) in a 
sphere, multiply the cube of the diameter by .5236. 

The radius of a circle x 6.283185 = the circumference. 

The square of the diameter of a circle x .7854 = the 
area. 



314 



Shop Practice for Home Mechanics 



The square of the circumference of a circle x .07958. 
Half the circumference of a circle x half its diame- 
ter = the area. 



TABLE OF DECIMAL EQUIVALENTS 



8ths. 

Vi = 125 

M = .250 

% = .375 

Vz = .500 

% = .625 

H = 750 

Ve = 875 

16ths. 

A = 0625 
^ = 1875 
A = 3125 
5^ = 4375 



A = 


5025 


H = 


6875 


H = 


= .8125 


H = 


= 9375 


32ds. 


^ = 


.03125 


A' = 


09375 


A = 


,15625 


A = 


21875 


A = 


.28125 


M = 


.34375 


M = 


40625 


iA — 
3i 


40875 



32 ^ .Ooi^O 
3^ ^ .0*70/0 

li = .65625 
l\ = 71875 
M = 78125 
U = .84375 
M = .90625 
M = 96875 

64ths. 

ii= .015625 
^= .046875 
A= 078125 
6T= 109375 



140625 
171875 
.203125 
.234375 
.265625 
.296875 
.328125 
.359375 
.390625 
.421875 
.453125 
.484375 
.515625 
546875 



54 • 






Si. 



«4 = 
SA. 



= .578125 
=.609375 
= .640625 
= .671875 
= .703125 
= 734375 
= 765625 
: 796875 
= .828125 
= .859375 
= .890625 
= .921875 
: .953125 
= .984375 



Fig. 309 

The circumference of a circle x .15955 = the radius. 

The square root of the area of a circle x .56419 == the 
radius. 

The scpare root of the area of a circle x 1.12838 = the 
diameter. 



INDEX 



Abrasive wheels, 214. 
Action of force on lever, 22. 
Adjustable wrench, 81. 
Adjusting die, 77. 
Angle plate, 171, 
Angle plate, mounting of, 171. 
Anvil, 82. 
Arboring tool, 213. 
Attachment, drilling for lathe, 

203. 
Attachment, overhead for lathe, 

205. 



B 



Bench lathe, 128-153. 

Bevel gears, 42. 

Board, moulding, 231. 

Bond, 217. 

Boring, 176. 

Boring bar, 175. 

Boring bar, special, 276. 

Boring cylinder, 167. 

Boring casting for drill press, 

277. 
Boring tools, 177. 
Boring tools, grinding of, 177, 
Bottoming drill, 122. 
Bottoming tap, 74. 
Box, core, 239. 
Brass hammer, 84. 
Brass melting furnace, 242. 
Brazing, 255. 
Brick for tinning, 257, 



Bu|fing, 228, 

Built-up crankshaft, 183. 

C 

Calipers, inside, 91. 

Calipers, outside, 88. 

Calipers, shoulder, 92. 

Calipers, vernier, 97. 

Case hardening, 252. 

Casting, explanation, 229. 

Castings, shrinkage of, 234. 

Center drill, lathe, 130. 

Center, lathe, 129. 

Center of gravity, 32. 

Center punch, 66. 

Center rest, for lathe, 145, 

Chart for machine screws, 306. 

Chemical energy, 14. 

Chisels, 69. 

Chuck, drill, 112. 

Chuck, lathe, 135. 

Circular pitch, 39. 

Clamps, 84. 

Classification of files, 50. 

Coefficient of cubical expan- 
sion, 46. 

CoeiBcient of linear expansion, 
45. 

Compound lever, 21, 

Cone pulley, lathe, 143. 

Conservation of energy, 15. 

Construction of boring bar, 
175. 

Construction of D-bit, 197. 

Cope, 231, 



31; 



316 



Index 



Copper, heating, 258. 

Core box, 238. 

Core box, use of 239. 

Core prints, 236. 

Countershaft, 151. 

Countersink, 122. 

Counter weight, 170. 

Crankshaft, built-up, 183. 

Crankshaft, double throw, 182. 

Crankshafts, 179. ^ 

Crown gears, 42. 

Cubical expansion, coefficient 

of, 46. 
Cutter, fly, 121. 
Cutting inside threads, 195. 
Cutting keyways, 202. 
Cutting outside threads, 194. 
Cutting slots, 57. 
Cutting threads, 193. 
Cylinder, boring, 167. 



D 



D-bit, 197. 

D-bit, construction of, 197. 

D-bit reamer, 210. 

D-bit tool holder, 199. 

Decalescence, 246. 

Decimal equivalents of frac- 
tion, 313. 

Definition of energy, 14. 

Definition of matter, 13. 

Depth gauge, 99. 

Depth gauge, home-made, 103. 

Depth gauge, micrometer, 99. 

Diameter, pitch, 38. 

Die, 76. 

Die stock, 76. 

Dies, pipe, 79. 

Different kinds of energy, 14. 

Different lines used on draw- 
ings, 304. 

Dividers, use of, 106. 

Dog, lathe, 129. 

Double-cut files, 50. 



Double throw crankshaft, 182. 

Drag, 231. 

Draught of patterns, 234. 

Drawings, reading of, 301. 

Drift, 124. 

Drill, bottoming, 122. 

Drill chuck, 112. 

Drill for brass, 116. 

Drill for iron, 116. 

Drill lead hole, 117. 

Drill, number, 110. 

Drill pad, 137. 

Drill parts, 108. 

Drill press, 112. 

Drill press casting, boring of, 

277. 
Drill press, construction of, 

267. 
Drills, 108. 

Drills, grinding of, 108. 
Drilling attachment for lathe, 

203. 
Drilling gun barrel, 200. 
Driving fits, 310. 
Driving grinding head, 216. 
Driving punch, 67. 



B 



Eccentric, turning of, 173. 
Elbow turning, 169. 
End plates, 181. 
Energy, 14. 
Energy, chemical, 14. 
Energy, conservation of, 14. 
Energy, different kinds of, 14. 
Energy, kinetic, 14. 
Energy, transformation of, 14. 
Equivalents, decimal of frac- 
tions, 313. 

F 

Face plate, 168. 
Face plate, lathe, 133. 



Index 



317 



Fast filing, 54. 

Files, 49. 

Fillets, 236. 

Finding center of gravity, 33. 

First class lever, 18. 

Fits, driving, 310. 

Fits, pushed, 310. 

Fits, running, 310. 

Fly cutter, 121. 

Fly wheel, turning of, 173. 

Foot-pound, 15. 

Force, 14. 

Force and reaction, 30. 

Forced fits, 310. 

Forces, parallel, 17. 

Forces, resultant, 17. 

Friction, 29. 

Friction, kinetic, 29. 

Furnace for brass melting, 242. 



G 



Gasolene hardening furnace 

for steel, 249. 
Gasolene torch, operation of, 

259. 
Gauge, depth, 99. 
Gauge, surface, 100. 
Gauge, thread, 195. 
Gear bevel, 42. 
Gear calculations, 43. 
Gear index plate for lathe, 191. 
Gears, 37. 
Gears, crown, 42. 
Gears, for lathe, 190. 
Gears, meshing of, 40. 
Gears, speed of, 38. 
Gears, worm, 40. 
Gearing, principle of, 37. 
Grade, 217. 
Gravity, 31. 
Gravity, center of, 33. 
Grinder, power, 221. 
Grinding, 214. 
Grinding boring tools, 177. 



Grinding drills, 108. 
Grinding head, 215. 
Grinding head, construction 

of, 294. 
Grinding head, driving of, 

216. 
Grinding lathe tools, 139. 
Grit, 217. 
Gun barrel, drilling of, 200. 



H 



Hack saw, 64. 
Hammer, brass, 84. 
Hammers, 48. 
Hand drill, 112. 
Hand grinder, 220. 
Hand lathe tools, 132. 
Hard soldering, 262. 
Hardening, case, 252. 
Hardening furnace, gasolene, 

for steel, 249. 
Heating copper, 258. 
Home-made depth gauge, 103. 
Home-made surface gauge, 

102. 
Horse-power, 15. 



Inclined planes, 26. 
Inertia, 34. 
Inertia apparatus, 34. 
Inside calipers, 91. 



Jack, 28. 

Jaws of vise, 62. 

Jeweller's saw, 65. 



Keyways, cutting of, 202. 



318 



Index 



Keyway scale, 104. 
Kinetic energy, 14. 
Kinetic friction, 29. 



Lapp board, 224. 
Lapp grinder, for lathe', 223. 
Lapping, 227. 
Lathe, bench, 128, 153. 
Lathe, centers, 129. 
Lathe, center rest, 145. 
Lathe centering drill, 130. 
Lathe chuck, 135. 
Lathe, cone pulley, 143. 
Lathe, dog, 129. 
Lathe face plate, 133. 
Lathe gear, index plate, 191. 
Lathe gears, 190. 
Lathe gears, mounting of, 190. 
Lathe hand tools, 132. 
Lathe lapp grinder, 223. 
Lathe, large, 142. 
Lathe milling attachment, 207. 
Lathe, mounting of, 152. 
Lathe overhead attachment, 
205. 

Lathe swing, 147. 

Lathe tail stock, 143. 

Lathe tools, grinding of, 139. 

Lathe tools, metal turaing, 138. 

Lathe work, 155. 

Layout of shop, 148. 

Lead, 35. 

Lead hole for drill, 117. 

Lead screw, lathe, 144. 

Letter punch, 84. 

Lever, 18. 

Lever, first class, 18. 

Lever, problems of the, 20. 

Lever, second class, 19. 

Lever, the. compound, 21. 

Lever, third class, 19. 



Linear expansion, coefficient 
of, 46. 



M 



Machine screw chart, 306. 
Machining of angle plate, 171, 
Machinist's scale, 86. 
Mandrel, wooden, use of, 162. 
Marking, 105. 
Meshing of gears, 40. 
Metal turning lathe tools, 138. 
Micrometer, 93. 
Micrometer depth gauge, 99. 
Micrometer, how to read, 93. 
Milling attachment for lathe, 

207. 
Milling cutters, use of in lathe, 

209. 
Momentum, 34. 
IMoulding board, 231. 
Mounting angle plate, 171. 
Mounting lathe, 152. 
Mounting lathe gears, 190. 

N 

Negative rake, 134. 
Non-adjustable wrench, 81. 
Number drills, 110. 



Outside calipers, 88. 

P 

Parallel forces, 17. 
Parallel jaw plier, 80. 
Pattern making, 229. 
Patterns, draught of, 234. 
Patterns for drill press, con- 
struction of, 267. 
Patterns, split, 232. 
Pickle for silver soldering, 263. 



Index 



319 



Pins, thrust, 186. 

Pipe dies, 79. 

Pitch, 35. 

Pitch, circular, 39. 

Pitch, diameter, 39. 

Planes, inclined, 26. 

Plate, angle, 171. 

Plate, surface, 101. 

Pliers, 80. 

Pliers, parallel jaw, 80. 

Plug tap, 74. 

Polishing, 228. 

Positive rake, 134. 

Power, 14. 

Power grinder, 221. 

Principle of gearing, 37. 

Prints, core, 236. 

Problems of the lever, 20. 

Proper method of holding file, 

51. 
Protractor, 104. 
Pulleys, 24. 

Pulleys, systems of, 25. 
Pulleys, turning of, 286. 
Punch, center, 66. 
Punch, driving, 67. 
Punch, letter, 84. 
Pushed fits, 310. 



R 



Rack and pinion, 41. 
Rake, negative, 134. 
Rake, positive, 134. 
Reading drawings, 301. 
Reading micrometer, 93. 
Eeamer, 125. 

Reamer, sharpening of, 126. 
Reamer, special for D-bit, 210. 
Reaming drill press casting, 

279. 
Eeaming on lathe, 165. 
Recalescence, 246. 
Relation of lead and pitch, 35. 
Resultant forces, 17. 



Rivets, 68. 
Rivetting, 68. 

Running-down cutter, 213. 
Running fits, 310. 



S 



Scale, keyway, 104. 

Scale, machinist's, 86. 

Scraper, for soldering, 256. 

Scrapers, 59. 

Scraping, 59. 

Screw, 28. 

Screw drivers, 63. 

Screw, lead for lathe, 144. 

Second class lever, 19. 

Shaft hangers, 150. 

Sharpening reamer, 126. 

Shop layout, 148. 

Shoulder calipers, 92. 

Shrinkage of castings, 234. • 

Silver soldering, 262. 

Silver soldering, pickle for, 

263. 
Single-cut files, 50. 
Slide rest, 137. 
Slots, cutting, 57. 
Soft soldering, 256. 
Soldering, 255. 
Soldering copper, tinning of, 

256. 
Soldering, hard, 262. 
Soldering, silver, 262. 
Soldering, soft, 256. 
Special boring bar, 276. 
Speed of gears, 38. 
Split patterns, 232. 
Square, 87. 

Standard V-thread, 36. 
Static friction, 29. 
Steel, tempering, 245. 
Stress table for brass, bronze 

and steel, 43. 
Surface gauge, 100. 



320 



Index 



Surface gauge, home-made, 

102. 
Surface plate, 101. 
Swing of lathe, 147. 
Systems of pulleys, 25. 



T 



Tail stock, lathe, 143. 
Tap, plug, 74. 
Tap wrench, 73. 
Taps, 71. 
Taps, use of, 72. 
Taper reamer, 125. 
Taper top, 74. 
Tempering steel. 245. 
Template, 131. 
Third class lever, 19. 
Thread cutting, 193. 
Thread, cutting outside, 194. 
Thread cutting tool, 193. 
Thread gauge, 195. 
Thread tool gauge, 193. 
Thread, U. S. Standard, 36. 
Thread, V. Standard, 36. 
Thread, Whitworth, 36. 
Thrust pins, 186. 
Tinning brick, 257. 
Tinning solderinq' copper, 256. 
Tool, arboring, 213. 
Tool gauge, thread, 193. 
Tool holder for D-bit, 199. 
Tool, thread cutting, 193. 
Tools, boring, 177. 
Top, taper, 74. 

Transformation of energy, 14. 
Turning crankshafts, 179. 
Turning cylinder, 161. 
Turning eccentric, 173. 
Turning elbow, 169. 



Turning fly wheel, 173. 
Turning pulleys, 287. 

U 

Use of anvil, 82. 

Use of chisels, 69. ' 

Use of die, 76. 

Use of dividers. 106. 

Use of end plates, 181. 

Use of face plate, 169. 

Use of hack saw, 64. 

Use of half-round files, 55. 

Use of milling cutters in lathe, 

209. 
Use of scale, ^&. 
Use of scrapers, 59. 
Use of small file, 53. 
Use of taps, 71. 
U. S. Standard Thread, 36. 



V 



V-blocks, 118. 

Velocity of matter, 16. 

Vernier calipers, 97. 

Vise, 61. 

Vise, jaws of, 62. 

Vitrified abrasive wheels, 217. 

W 

Wedge, 27. 

AVheel, abrasive, vitrified, 217. 

AVhitworth thread, 36. 

Wooden mandrel, use of, 162. 

Work, 14. 

Worm gears, 40. 

Wrench, 81. 

Wrench, tap, 73. 



1920 

REVISED 

CATALOGUE 

of the Latest and Best 

Practical and Mechanical Books 

Including Automobile and Aviation Books 




PRACTICAL BOOKS FOR PRACTICAL MEN 

Each Book in this Catalogue is written by an 
Expert and is written so you can understand it 



PUBLISHED BY 

The Norman W. Henley Publishing Co. 

2 West 45th Street, New York, U. S. A. 

Established 1890 
Any Book in this Catalogue sent prepaid on receipt of price 



INDEX 



PAGE 

Air Brakes 26, 29 

Arithmetic 16, 30, 40 

Automobile Books 3, 4, 5, 6 

Automobile Cliarts 6,7 

Aviation 6,7, 8 

Aviation Chart 6 

Bevel Gear 24 

Brazing 8 

Cams 24 

Carburetors 5 

Change Gear 24 

Charts 6, 7, 9 

Coal 22 

Coke 11 

Combustion 27 

Compressed Air 11 

Concrete 11.12.13.14 

Cosmetics 35 

Dictionary 14 

Dies 14, 15 

Drawing 15. 16, 36 

Drop Forging 15 

Dvnamo Building 16 

Electric Bells 20 

Electric Switchboards 17, 19 

Electric Toy Making 17 

Electric Wiring 18, 19 

Electricity 16, 17. 18, 19. 20, 21 

Electroplating 21 

" Everyday Engineering " 30 

Factory Management 21 

Ford Automobile 3 

Ford Trouble Chart 10 

Formulas and Recipes 37 

Fuel 22 

Gas Engine Construction 23 

Gas Engines 22, 23 

Gas Tractor 42 

Gearing and Cams 24 

Heating 40 

High Frequency Apparatus 20 

Horse Power Chart 39 

Hot Water Heating 40, 41 

House Wiring 18 

Hydraulics 24 

Ice 24 

Interchangeable Manufacturing .... 29 

Inventions 25 

Knots 25 

Lathe Work 25, 26 

Link Motions 27 

Liquid Air 26 

Locomotive Boilers 27 

Locomotive Breakdowns 27 

Locomotive Engineering. . . .26, 27, 28, 29 



PAGE 

Machinist Books 29, 30, 31, 32, 33 

Manual Training 34 

Marine Engineering 33 

Marine Gasoline Engines 23 

Mechanical Drawing 16 

Mechanical Movements 31 

Metal Work 14,15 



Mining 
Model Making . . 
Motor Boats. . . . 
Motorcycles . . . . 

Patents 

Pattern Making. 

Perfumery 

Perspective . 



34 
32 

35 
6 
25 
34 
35 
15 

Plumbing 36, 37 

Producer Gas 23 

Punches 15 

Radio 20 

Railroad Accidents 28 

Railroad Charts 10 

Recipe Book 37 

Refrigeration 24 

Rubber Stamps 39 

Saw Fihng 38 

Saws, Management of 38 

Sheet Metal Works 14, 15 

Shop Tools 32 

Sketching Paper 16 

Soldering 8 

Steam Engineering 39, 40 

Steam Heating 40, 41 

Steel 41,42 

Storage Batteries 21 

Submarine Chart 10 

Switch Boards 17, 19 

Tapers 26 

Telegraphy, Wireless 19 

Telephone 19 

Thread Cutting 30 

ToolMaking 29 

Toy Making 17 

Tractive Power Chart 10 

Tractor, Gas 42 

Train Rules 28 

Turbines 42 

Vacuum Heating 41 

Valve Setting 27 

Ventilation 40 

Walschaert Valve Gear 29 

Waterproofing 14 

Welding 5 

Wireless Telegraphy 19, 20 

Wiring 18. 19 

Wiring Diagrams 17 



Any of these books promptly sent prepaid to any address 

in the world on receipt of price. 

How to remit. — By Postal Money Order, Express Money Order, 

Bank Draft or Registered Letter. 



CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS 
AUTOMOBILES AND MOTORCYCLES 

THE MODERN GASOLINE AUTOMOBILE— ITS DESIGN, CONSTRUC- 
TION, MAINTENANCE AND REPAIR. By Victor W. Page, M.E. 
The latest and most complete treatise on the Gasoline Automobile ever issued. Written 
in simple language by a recognized authority, familiar with every branch of the auto- 
mobile industry. Free from technical terms. Everjthing is explained so simply 
that anyone of average intelhgence may gain a comprehensive knowledge of the 
gasoUne automobile. The information is up-to-date and includes, in addition to an 
exposition of principles of construction and description of all types of automobiles and 
their components, valuable money-saving hints on the care and operation of motor- 
cars propelled by internal combustion engines. Among some of the subjects treated 
might be mentioned: Torpedo and other symmetrical body forms designed to reduce 
air resistance; sleeve valve, rotary valve and other types of silent motors; increasing 
tendency to favor worm-gear power -transmission ; tiniversal application of magneto 
ignition; development of automobile electric-hghting systems; block motors; under- 
slung chassis: application of practical self-starters: long stroke and offset cylinder 
motors: latest automatic lubrication systems: silent chains for valve operation and 
change-speed gearing: the use of front wheel brakes and many othei detail refinements. 
By a careful study of the pages of tliis book one can gain practical knowledge of auto- 
mobile construction that will save time, money and worry. The book tells you Just 
what to do, how and when to do it. Notliing has been omitted, no detail has been 
slighted. Every part of the automobile, its equipment, accessories, tools, supplies, 
spare parts necessary, etc., have been discussed comprehensively. If you are or 
intend to become a motorist, or are in any way interested in the modern Gasoline 
Automobile, this is a book you cannot afford to be without. Over 1,000 pages — 
and more than 1,000 new and specially made detail illustrations, as well as many full- 
page and double-page plates, showing all parts of the automobile. Including 12 large 
folding plates. 1920 Edition. Price $4.00 

WHAT IS SAID OF THIS BOOK: 
"It is the best book on the Automobile seen up to date." — J. H. Pile, Associate Editor 
. Automobile Trade Journal. 
"Every Automobile Owner has use for a book of this character." — The Tradesman. 
"This book is superior to any treatise heretofore pubhshed on the subject." — The 
Inventive Age. 

"We know of no other volume that is so comnlete in all its departments, and in which 
the wide field of automobile construction with its mechanical intricacies is so plainly 
handled, both in the text and in the matter of illustrations." — The Motorist. 
"The book is very thorough, a careful examination faihng to disclose any point in 
connection with the automobile, its care and repair, to have been overlooked." — 
Iron Age. 

"Mr. Page has done a great work, and benefit to the Automobile Field." — W. C. 
Hasford, INIgr. Y. M. C. A. Automobile School, Boston, Mass. 

" It is just the kind of a book a motorist needs if he wants to understand his car." — 
American Thresherman. 

THE MODEL T FORD CAR, ITS CONSTRUCTION, OPERATION AND 
REPAIR, INCLUDING THE FORD FARM TRACTOR. By Victor W. 
Page, M.E. 

This is a complete instruction book. All parts of the Ford Model T Car are described 
and illustrated; the construction is fully described and operating principles made 
clear to everyone. Every Ford owner needs this practical book. You don't have to 
guess about the construction or where the trouble is, as it shows how to take all parts 
apart and how to locate and fix all faults. The writer, Mr. Page, has operated a Ford 
car for four years and writes from actual knowledge. Among the contents are: 
1. The Ford Car. Its Parts and Their Functions. 2. The Engine and Auxiliary 
Groups. How the Engine Works— The Fuel Supply System — The Carburetor — 
Making the Ignition Spark — Cooling and Lubrication. 3. Details of Chassis. 
Change Speed Gear — Power Transmission — Differential Gear Action — Steering Gear 
— Front Axle — Frame and Springs — Brakes. 4. How to Drive and Care for the Ford. 
The Control System Explained — Starting the Motor — Driving the Car — Locating 
Roadside Troubles — Tire Repairs — OiUng the Chassis — Winter Care of Car. 5. Sys- 
tematic Location of Troubles and Remedies. Faults in Engine — Faults in Carburetor 

3 



CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS 

— Ignition Troubles — Cooling and Lubrication System Defects — Adjustment of 
Transmission Gear — General Chassis Repairs. The Ford Tractor and Tractor con- 
version sets and Genuine Fordson Tractor Operation and Repair — F. A. Starting 
and Lighting System. 153 illustrations. 410 pages. Two large folding plates. 
Price $2.00 

AUTOMOBILE REPAIRING MADE EASY. By Victor W. Page, M.E. 
A comprehensive, practical exposition of every phase of modern automobile repairing 
practice. Outlines every process incidental to motor car restoration. Gives plans for 
workshop construction, suggestions for equipment, power needed, machinery and tools 
necessary to carry ou the business successfully. Tells how to overhaiil and repair all 
parts of all automobiles. Everything is explained so simply that motorists and students 
can acquire a full working knowledge of automobile repairing. This work starts with 
the engine, then considers cai-buretion, ignition, cooling and lubrication systems. The 
clutch, change speed glaring and transmission systinn are considered in detail. Contains 
instructions for repairing all types of axles, steering gears and other chassis parts. 
Many tables, short cuts in figuring and rules of practice are given for the mechanic. 
Explains fully valve and magneto timing, "tuning" engmes, systematic location of 
trouble, repair of ball and roller bearings, shop kinks, first aid to injured and a multi- 
tude of subjects of interest to all in the garage and repair business. 
This book contains special instructions on electric starting, lightinq and ignition systems, 
tire repairing and rebuilding, autogenous welding, brazing and soldering, heat treatment of 
Steel, latest timing practice, eight and twelve-cylinder motors, etc. 5Jix8. Cloth. 1056 
pages, 1,000 illustrations, 11 folding plates. Price $4.00 

WHAT IS SAID OF THIS BOOK: 

" 'Automobile Repairing Made Easy' is the best book on the subject I have ever seen 
and the only book I ever saw that is of any value in a garage."— Fred .Jeffrey, Martins- 
burg, Neb. 

"I wish to thank you for sending me a copy of 'Automobile Repairing Made Easy.' I 
do not think it could be excelled." — S. W. Gisriel, Director-of Instruction, Y. M. C. A., 
Pliiladelpliia, Pa. 

QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS RELATING TO MODERN AUTOMOBILE 
CONSTRUCTION, DRIVING AND REPAIR. By Victor W. Page, M.E. 

A practical self-instructor for students, mechanics and motorists, consisting of thirty- 
seven lessons in the form of questions and answers, written with special reference to the 
requirements of the non-technical reader desiring easily imderstood, explanatory 
matter relating to all branches of automobiling. The subject-matter is absolutely 
correct and explained in simple language. If you can't answer all of the following 
questions, you need this work. The answers to these and nearly 2000 more are to 
be found in its pages. Give the name of all important parts of an automobile and 
describe their functions? Describe action of latest types of kerosene carburetors? 
"What is the difference between a "double" ignition system and a "dual" ignition 
system? Name parts of an induction coil? How are valves timed? What is an 
electric motor starter and how does it work? What are advantages of worm drive 
gearing? Name all important types of ball and roller bearings? What is a "three- 
quarter" floating axle? What is a two-speed axle? What is the Vulcan electric gear 
shift? Name the causes of lost power in automobiles? Describe all noises due to 
deranged mechanism and give causes? How can you adjust a carburetor by the 
color of the exhaust gases? What causes "popping" in the carburetor? What tools 
and supplies are needed to equip a car? How do you drive various makes of cars? 
What is a differential lock and where is it used? Name different systems of wire 
•wheel construction, etc., etc. A popular work at a popular price. 5}4x732. Cloth. 
700 pages, 350 illustrations, 3 folding plates. Price $2.50 

WHAT IS SAID OF THIS BOOK: 
"If you own a car — get this book." — The Glassworker. 

"Mr. Page has the faculty of making difficult subjects plain and imderstandable." — 
Bristol Press. 

"We can name no writer better qualified to prepare a book of instruction on auto- 
mobiles than Mr. Victor W. Page." — Scientific American. 
"The best automobile catechism that has appeared." — Automobile Topics. 
"There are few men, even with long experience, who will not find this book useful. 
Great pains have been taken to make it accurate. Special recommendation must be 



CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS 

given to the illustrations, which have been made specially for the work. Such ex- 
cellent books as this greatly assist in fully understanding yoiu- automobile." — £71- 
gineering News. 

MODERN STARTING, LIGHTING AND IGNITION SYSTEMS. By Victor 
W. Page, M.E. 

This practical volume has been written with special reference to the requirements of.the 
non-technical reader desiring easily understood, explanatory matter, relating to all 
types of automobile ignition, starting and lighting systems. It can be understood by 
anyone, even without electrical knowledge, because elementary electrical principles are 
considered before any attempt is made to discuss features of the various systems. 
These basic principles are clearly stated and illustrated with simple diagrams All the 
leading systems of starting, lighting and ignition have been described and illustrated with 
the co-operation of the experts employed by the manufacturers. Wiring diiisrams are 
shown in Ijoth technical and non-technical forms. All symljols are fully explained. It 
is a comprehensive review of modern starting and ignition system practice, and includts 
a complete exposition of storage battery consti*uction, care and repair. All types of 
starting motors, generators, magnetos, and all ignition or lighting system units are 
fuUy explained. The systems of cars already in use as well as those that are to come 
in 1920 are considered. Every person in the automobile business needs this volume. 
5}ix7}4. Cloth. 804 pages, 492 illustrations, 3 folding plates. Price . . $3.00 

GASOLINE AND KEROSENE CARBURETORS, CONSTRUCTION, IN- 
STALLATION AND ADJUSTMENT. By Major Victor W. Page. A 
New Up-to-date Book on Modern Carburetion Practice. 

This is a simple, comprehensive, and authoritative treatise for practical men ex- 
plaining all basic principles pertaining to carburetion, showing how hquid fuels are 
vaporized and turned into gas for operating all types of internal combustion engines in- 
tended to operate on vapors of gasohne, kerosene, benzol, and alcohol. All leading types 
of carburetors are described in detail, special attention being given to the forms devised 
to use the cheaper fuels such as kerosene. Carbiu'etion troubles, fuel system troubles, 
carburetor repairs and installation, electric primers and economizers, "hot spot mani- 
folds and all modern carbvu-etor developments are considered in a thorough manner. 
Methods of adjusting all types of carbiu-etors are fully discussed as well as sugges- 
tions for securing maximimi fuel economy and obtaining highest engine power. 
This book is mvaluable to repairmen, students, and motorists, as it includes the 
most complete exposition on kerosene carburetors ever published. The drawings 
showing carbtiretor construction are made from accurate engineering designs and 
show all parts of late types of carburetors. 250 pages. 89 Illustrations. . $2.00 

HOW TO RUN AN AUTOMOBILE. By Victor W. Page. 

Tliis treatise gives concise instructions for starting and rimning all makes of gasoline 
automobiles, how to care for them, and gives distinctive featm-es of control. De- 
scribes every step for sliifting gears, controlling engine, etc. Among the chapters 
contained are: I. Automobile Parts and Then- Fimctions. II. General Starting 
and Driving Instructions. III. Typical 1919 Control Systems — Care of Auto- 
mobiles. Thorouglily illustrated. 178 pages. 72 illustrations. Price . . $1.50 

THE AUTOMOBILIST'S POCKET COMPANION AND EXPENSE RECORD. 
Bj^ Victor W. Page. 

Tliis book is not only valuable as a convenient cost recorcl, but contains much in- 
formation of value to motorists. Includes a condensed digest of auto laws of all 
States, a lubrication schedule, hints for care of storage battery, and care of tires, 
location of road troubles, anti-freezing solutions, horse-pover table, driving hints 
and many useful tables and recipes of interest to all motorists. Not a technical 
book in any sense of the word, just a collection of practical facts in simple language 
for the every-day motorist. Convenient pocket size. Price $1.25 

AUTOMOBILE WELDING WITH THE OXY-ACETYLENE FLAME.^ By 

M. Keith Dunham. 

Explains in a simple manner apparatus to be used, its care, and how to construct 
necessary shop equipment. Proceeds then to the actual welding of all automobile 



CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS 

parts, in a manner understandable by every one. Gives principles never to be for- 
gotten. This book is of utmost value, since the j erplexing problems arising when 
metal is heated to a melting point are fully explained and the proper methods to 
overcome them shown. 167 pages. Fully illustrated. Price $1.50 

MOTORCYCLES AND SIDE CARS, THEIR CONSTRUCTION, MANAGE- 
MENT AND REPAIR. By Victor W. Page, M.E. 

The only complete work pubUshed for the motorcyclist and repairman. Describes 
fully all leading types of machines, their design, construction, maintenance, operation 
and repair. This treatise outUnes fully the operation of two- and four-cycle power 
plants and all ignition, carburetion and lubrication systems in detail. ^ Describes all 
representative types of free engine clutches, variable speed gears and' power trans- 
mission systems. Gives complete instructions for operating and repairing all types. 
Considers fully electric self-starting and lighting systems, all types of sirring frames 
and spring forks and shows leading control methods. For those desiring technical 
information a complete series of tables and many formulje to assist in designing are 
included. The work tells how to figure power needed to climb grades, overcome air 
resistance and attain high speeds. It shows how to select gear ratios for various 
weights and powers, how to figure braking efficiency required, gives sizes of Ijelts and 
chains to transmit power safely, and shows how to design sprockets, belt pulleys, etc. 
This work also includes complete formul-e for figuring horse-power, shows how dyna- 
mometer tests are made, defines relative efficiency of air- and water-cooled engines, plain 
and anti-friction bearings and many other data of a practical, heli^ful, engineering 
nature. Remember that you get this information in addition to the practical de- 
scription and instructions which alone are worth several times the price of the book. 
600 pages. 400 specially made illustrations, 4 folding plates. Cloth. Price . $3.00 

WHAT IS SAID OF THIS BOOK: 

" Here is a book that should be in the cycle repairer's kit." — American Blacksmith. 
" The best way for any rider to thoroughly understand his machine, is to get a copy 
of this book; it is worth many times its price." — Pacific Motorcyclist. 

AUTOMOBILE, AVIATION AND MOTORCYCLE CHARTS 

AVIATION CHART— LOCATION OF AIRPLANE POWER PLANT TROUBLES 
MADE EASY. By Major Victor W. Page, A.S., S.C.U.S.R. 

A large chart outlining all parts of a typical airplane power plant, showing the points 
where trouble is apt to occur and suggesting remedies for the common defects. In- 
tended e.specially for aviators and aviation mecha»]ics on school and field duty. 
Price 35 cents 

CHART. GASOLINE ENGINE TROUBLES MADE EASY— A CHART SHOW- 
ING SECTIONAL VIEW OF GASOLINE ENGINE. Compiled by Victor 
W. Page, M.E. 

It shows clearly aU parts of a typical four-cylinder gasoline engine of the four-cycle 
type. It outlines distinctly all parts liable to give trouble and also details the de- 
rangements apt to interfere with smooth engine operation. 

Valuable to students, motorists, mechanics, repairmen, garagemen, automobile sales- 
men, chauffeurs, motorboat owners, motor-truck and tractor drivers, aviators, motor- 
cycUsts, and all others who have to do with gasoUne power plants. 
It simpUfies location of all engine troubles, and while it will prove invaluable to the 
novice, it can be used to advantage by the more e.xpert. It should be on the walls of 
every public and private garage, automobile repair shop, clubhouse or school. It can 
be carried in the automobile or pocket with ease, and will insure against loss of time 
when engine trouble manifests itself. 

This sectional view of engine is a complete review of all motor troubles. It is prepared 
by a practical motorist for all who motor. More information for the money than ever 
before offered. No details omitted. Size 25x38 inches. Securely mailed on receipt 
of 85 cents 



CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS 

CHART. LOCATION OF FORD ENGINE TROUBLES MADE EASY. Com- 
piled by Victor W. Page, M.E. 

This shows clear sectional views depicting all portions of the Ford power plant and 
auxiliary groups. It outlines clearly all parts of the engine, fuel supply system, igni- 
tion group and cooling system, that are apt to give trouble, detailing all derangements 
that are Uable to make an engine lose power, start hard or work irregularly. This 
chart is valuable to students, owners, and drivers as it simplifies location of all engine 
faults. Of great advantage as an instructor for the novice, it can be used equally well 
by the more expert as a work of reference and review. It can be carried in the tool- 
box or pocket with ease and will save its cost in labor eUminated the first time engine 
troul^le manifests itself. Prepared with special reference to the average man's needs 
and is a practical review of all motor troubles because it is based on the actual ex- 
perience of an automobile engineer-mechanic with the mechanism the chart describes. 
It enables the non-technical owner or operator of a Ford car to locate engine de- 
rangements by systematic search, guided by easily recognized symjitoms instead of by 
guesswork. It makes the average owner independent of the roadside repair shop 
when touring. INIust be seen to be appreciated. Size 25x38 inches. Printed on 
heavy bond paper. Price 35 cents 

CHART. LUBRICATION OF THE MOTOR CAR CHASSIS. Compiled by 
Victor W. Page, M.E. 

This chart presents the plan -siew of a typical six-cyhnder chassis of standard design 
and all parts are clearly indicated that demand oil, also the frequency with which they 
must be lubricated and the kind of oil to use. A practical chart for all interested In 
motor-car maintenance. Size 24x38 inches. Price 35 cents 

CHART. LOCATION OF CARBURETION TROUBLES MADE EASY. Com- 
piled by Victor W. Page, M.E. 

This chart shows all parts of a typical pressure feed fuel supply system and gives 
causes of trouble, how to locate defects and means of remedying them. Size 24x38 
inches. Price 85 cents 

CHART. LOCATION OF IGNITION SYSTEM TROUBLES MADE EASY. 

Compiled by Victor W. Page, M.E. 

In this diagram aU parts of a typical double ignition system using battery and magneto 
current are shown, and suggestions are given for readily finding ignition troubles and 
eliminating them when found. Size 24x38 inches. Price 35 cents 

CHART. LOCATION OF COOLING AND LUBRICATION SYSTEM FAULTS. 

Compiled by Victor W. Page, M.E. 

This composite diagrani shows a typical automobile power plant using pump circulated 
water-coohng system and the most popular lubrication method. Gives suggestions 
for curing all overheating and loss of power faults due to faulty action of the oiling 
or cooUng group. Size 24x38 inches. Price 35 cents 

CHART. LOCATION OF STARTING AND LIGHTING SYSTEM FAULTS. 

The most complete chart yet devised, showing all parts of the modern automobile 
starting, Ughting and ignition systems, giving instructions for systematic location of 
all faults in wiring, lamps, niotor or generator, switches and all other units. Invalu- 
able to motorists, chauffeurs and repairmen. Size 24x38 inches. Price . 35 cents 

CHART. MOTORCYCLE TROUBLES MADE EASY. Compiled by Victor 
W. Page, M.E. 

A chart showing sectional view of a single-cylinder gasoUne engine. This chart 
simplifies location of all power-plant troubles. A single-cylinder motor is shown for 
simplicity. It outlines distinctly all parts liable to give trouble and also details the 
derangements apt to interfere with smooth engine operation. This chart will prove 
of value to all who have to do with the operation, repair or sale of motorcycles. No 
details omitted. Size 30x20 inches. Price 35 cents 



CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS 



AVIATION 

A B C OF AVIATION. By Major Victor W. Page. 

This book describes tlie basic principles of aviation, tells how a balloon or dirigible 
is made and why it floats in the air. Describes how an airplane tiies. It shows in 
detail the difl'erent parts of an airplane, what they are and what they do. Describes 
all types of airplanes and how they differ in construction; as well as detailing the 
advantages and disadvantages of different types of aircraft. It includes a complete 
dictionary of aviation terms and clear drawings of leading airplanes. The reader 
will find simple instructions for unpacking, setting up, and rigging airplanes. A 
full description of airplane control principles is given and methods of flying are dis- 
cussed at length. 

Tliis book answers every question one can ask about modem aircraft, their con- 
struction and operation. A self-educator on aviation without an equal. 275 pages. 
130 specially made illustrations with 7 plates. Price $2.50 

AVIATION ENGINES— DESIGN; CONSTRUCTION; REPAIR. By Major 

Victor W, Page, A.S., S.C.U.S.R. 

This treatise, written by a recognized authority on all of the practical aspects of 
internal combustion engine construction, maintenance, and repair, fills the need as 
no other book does. The matter is logically arranged ; all descriptive matter is 
simply expressed and copiously illustrated, so that anyone can understand airplane 
engine operation and repair even if without previous mechanical training. Tliis 
work is invaluable for anyone desiring to become an aviator or aviation mechanic. 
The latest rotary types, such as the Clnome Monosoupape, and LeRhone, are fully 
explained, as well as the recently developed Vee and radial types. The subjects 
of carburetion, ignition, cooling, and lubrication also are covered in a thorough manner. 
The chapters on repair and maintenance are distinctive and found in do other book 
on tliis subject. Not a teclinical book, but a practical, easily understood work of 
reference for all interested in aeronautical science. 576 pages. 253 illustrations. 
Price, net $3.00 

GLOSSARY OF AVIATION TERMS — ENGLISH-FRENCH; FRENCH- 
ENGLISH. By Major Victor W. Page, A.S., S.C.U.S.R., and Lieut. 
Paul Montariol, of the French Flying Corps. 

A complete glossary of practically all terms used in aviation, ha\ing hsts in both 
Frencn and EngUsh with equivalents in either language. Price, net . . $1.00 

AVIATION CHART— LOCATION OF AIRPLANE POWER PLANT TROUBLES 
MADE EASY. By Major Victor W. Page, A.S., S.C.U.S.R. 

A large chart outlining all parts of a typical airplane power plant, showing the points 
where trouble is apt to occur and suggesting remedies for the common defects. In- 
tended especially for aviators and aviation mechanics on school and field duty. 
Price 35 cents 

BRAZING AND SOLDERING 



BRAZING AND SOLDERING. By James F. Hobart. 



The only book that shows you just how to handle any job of brazing or soldering that 
comes along: it tells you what mixture to use, how to make a furnace if you need one. 
Full of valuable kinks. The fifth edition of this book has just been published, and to 
it much new matter and a large number of tested formul* for all kinds of solders and 
fluxes have been added. Illustrated 35 cents 



CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS 



CHARTS 

AVIATION CHART— LOCATION OF AIRPLANE POWER PLANT TROUBLES 
MADE EASY. By Major Victor W. Page, A.S., S.C.U.S.R. 
A large chart outlining all parts of a typical airplane power plant, showing the points 
where trouble is apt to occur and suggesting remedies for the common defects. 
Intended especially for aviators and aviation mechanics on school and field duty. 
Price 35 cents 

GASOLINE ENGINE TROUBLES MADE EASY— A CHART SHOWING SEC- 
TIONAL VIEW OF GASOLINE ENGINE. Compiled by Victor W. Page. 

It shows clearly all parts of a typical four-cylinder gasoline engine of the four-cycle 
type. It outlines distinctly all parts liable to give trouble and also details the de- 
rangements apt to interfere with smooth engine operation. 

Valuable to students, motorists, mechanics, repairmen, garagemen, automobile sales- 
men, chauffeurs, motor-boat owners, motor-truck and tractor drivers, aviators, motor- 
cychsts, and all others who have to do with gasoline power plants. 
It simplifies location of all engine troubles, and while it will prove invaluable to the 
novice, it can be used to advantage by the more expert. It should be on the waUs of 
every public and private garage, automobile repair shop, club house or school. It can 
be carried in the automobile or pocket with ease and will insure against loss of time 
when engine trouble manifests itself. 

This sectional view of engine is a complete review of all motor troubles. It is pre- 
pared by a practical motorist for all who motor. No details omitted. Size 25x38 
inches. . 85 centa 

LUBRICATION OF THE MOTOR CAR CHASSIS. 

This chart presents the plan view of a typical six-cylinder chassis of standard design 
and all parts are clearly indicated that demand oil, also the frequency with which they 
must be lubricated and the kind of oil to use. A practical chart for all interested in 
motor-car maintenance. Size 24x38 inches. Price 35 cents 

LOCATION OF CARBURETION TROUBLES MADE EASY. 

This chart shows all parts of a typical pressure feed fuel supply system and gives 
causes of trouble, how to locate defects and means of remedying them. Size 24x38 
inches. Price 35 cents 

LOCATION OF IGNITION SYSTEM TROUBLES MADE EASY. 

In this chart all parts of a typical double ignition system using battery and magneto 
current are shown and suggestions are given for readily finding ignition troubles and 
eliminating them when foimd. Size 24x38 inches. Price 35 cents 

LOCATION OF COOLING AND LUBRICATION SYSTEM FAULTS. 

This composite chart shows a typical automobile power plant using pump circulated 
water-coohng system and the most popular lubrication method. Gives suggestions 
for curing all overheating and loss of power faults due to faulty action of the oiling or 
cooUng group. Size 24x38 inches. Price 35 cents 

LOCATION OF STARTING AND LIGHTING SYSTEM FAULTS. 

The most complete chart yet devised, showing all parts of the modern automobile 
starting, hghting and ignition systems, giving instructions for systematic location of 
aU faults in wiring, lamps, motor or generator, switches and all other units. Invaluable 
to motorists, chauffeurs and repairmen. Size 24x38 inches. Price . . 35 cents 

MOTORCYCLE TROUBLES MADE EASY— A CHART SHOWING SEC- 
TIONAL VIEW OF SINGLE-CYLINDER GASOLINE ENGINE. Compiled 
by Victor W. Page. 

This chart simplifies location of all power-plant troubles, and will prove invaluable to 
all who have to do with the operation, repair or sale of motorcycles. No details 
omitted. Size 23x38 inches. Price 35 cents 



CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS 

LOCATION OF FORD ENGINE TROUBLES MADE EASY. Compiled by 
Victor W. Page, M.E. 

This shows clear sectional views depicting all portions of the Ford power plant and 
auxiliary groups. It outUnes clearly all parts of the engine, fuel supply system, 
ignition group and cooling system, that are apt to give trouble, detailing all derange- 
ments that are hable to make an engine lose power, start hard or work irregularly. This 
chart is valuable to students, owners, and drivers, as it simpUfles location of all engine 
faults. Of great advantage as an instructor for the novice, it can be used equally well 
by the more expert as a work of reference and review. It can be carried in the tool- 
box or pocket with ease and will save its cost in labor eliminated the first time engine 
. trouble manifests itself. P'-epared with special reference to the average man's needs 
and is a practical review of all motor troubles because it is based on the actual ex- 
perience of an automobile engineer-mechanic with the mechanism the chart describes. 
It enables the non-technical o^vner or operator of a Ford car to locate engine de- 
rangements by systematic search, guided by easily recognized symptoms instead of by 
guesswork. It makes the average owner independent of the roadside repair shop 
when touring. Must be seen to be appreciated. Size 25x38 inches. Printed on heavy 
bond paper. Price 35 cents 

MODERN SUBMARINE CHART — WITH 200 PARTS NUMBERED AND 
NAMED. 

A cross-section view, showing clearly and distinctly all the interior of a Submarine of 
the latest type. You get more information from this chart, about the construction and 
operation of a Submarine, than in any other way. No details omitted — everything 
IS accurate and to scale. It is absolutely correct in every detail, having ))een approved 
by Naval Engineers. All the machinery and devices fitted in a modern Submarine 
Boat are shown, and to make the engraving more readilv understood, all the features 
are shown in operative form, with Officers and Men in the act of performing the duties 
assigned to them in service conditions. This CHART IS REALLY AN ENCYCLO- 
PEDIA OF A SUBMARINE 25 cents 

BOX CAR CHART. 

A chart showing the anatomy of a box car, having every part of the car numbered and 
Its proper name given in a reference list 25 ceats 

GONDOLA CAR CHART. 

A chart showing the anatomy of a gondola car, ha\ing every part of the car numbered 
and its proper reference name given in a reference list 25 cents 

PASSENGER-CAR CHART. 

A chart showing the anatomy of a passenger-car, ha\ing every part of the car numbered 
and its proper name given in a reference hst 25 cents 

STEEL HOPPER BOTTOM COAL CAR. 

A chart showing the anatomy of a steel Hopper Bottom Coal Car, having every part 
of the car numbered and its proper name given in a reference Ust 25 cents 

TRACTIVE POWER CHART. 

A_ chart whereby you can find the tractive power or drawbar pull of any locomotive 
without making a figure. Shows what cylinders are equal, how driving wheels and 
steam pressure afl'ect the power. What sized engine you need to exert a given drawbar 
puU or anything you desire in this Une 50 cents 

•mORSE-POWER CHART 

Shows the horse-power of any stationary engine without calculation. No matter what 
the cyUnder diameter of stroke, the steam pressure of cut-off, the revolutions, or 
whether condensing or non-condensing, it's all there. Easy to use, accurate, and 
saves time and calculations. Especially useful to engineers and designers. 50 c«nts 

10 



CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS 



BOILER ROOM CHART. By Geo. L. Fowler. 

A chart — size 14x28 inches — showing in isometric perspective the mechanisms be- 
longing in a modern boiler room. The various parts are shown broken or removed, 
so that the internal construction is fully illustrated. Each part is given a reference 
number, and these, with the corresponding name, are given in a glossary printed at 
the sides. This chart is reaUy a dictionary of the boiler room — the names of more than 
200 parts being given 25 cents 

COKE 

COKE— MODERN COKING PRACTICE, INCLUDING ANALYSIS OF 
MATERIALS AND PRODUCTS. By J. E. Christopher and T. H. Byrom. 
Tliis, the standard work on the subject, has just been re\"iscd and is now issued in 
two volumes. It is a practical work for tliose engaged in Coke manufacture and 
the recovery of By-products. Fully illustrated with folding plates. It has been 
the aim of the authors, in preparing tliis book, to produce one which shall be of use 

. and benefit to thoSe who are associated with, or interested in, the modern develop- 
ments of the industry. Among the chapters contained in Volume I are: Introduc- 
tion. Classification of Fuels. Impurities of Coals. Coal Washing. Sampling 
and Valuation of Coals, etc. Chloriflc Power of Fuels. History of Coke Manu- 
facture. Developments in Coke Oven Design: Recent Types of Coke Ovens. 
Mechanical AppUances at Coke Ovens. Chemical and Physical Examination of 
Coke. Volume II covers By-products. Each volmne is fully illustrated, with 
folding plates. Price, per volume $3.00 

COMPRESSED AIR 

COMPRESSED AIR IN ALL ITS APPLICATIONS. By Gardner D. Hiscox. 

This is the most complete book on the subject of Air that has ever been issued, and its 
thirtv-flve chapters include about every phase of the subject one can think of. It may 
be called an encvclopedia of compressed air. It is written by an expert, who, in its 
665 pages, has dealt with the subject in a comprehensive manner, no phase of it being 
omitted. Includes the physical properties of air from a vacuum to its highest pressure, 
its thermodvnamics, compression, transmission and uses as a motive power, in the 
Operation of Stationary and Portable Machinery, in IMining, Air Tools, Air Lifts, 
Pumping of Water, Acids, and Oils: the Air Blast for Cleaning and Painting, the 
Sand Blast and its Work, and the Numerous AppUances in which Compressed Air is 
a Most Convenient and Economical Transmitter of Power for Mechanical Work, 
Railway Propulsion, Refrigeration, and the Various Uses to which Compressed Air 
has been appUed. Includes forty-four tables of the physical properties of air, its 
compression, expansion, and volumes required for various kinds of work, and a list 
of patents on compressed air from 1875 to date. Over 500 illustrations, 5th Edition, 
revised and enlarged. Cloth bound. Price $6.00 

CONCRETE 

JUST PUBLISHED— CONCRETE WORKERS' REFERENCE BOOKS. A 
SERIES OF POPULAR HANDBOOKS FOR CONCRETE USERS. 
Prepared by A. A. Houghton. Each 60 cents 

The author, in preparing this Series, has not only treated on the usual ti/pes of construction, 
but explains and illustrates molds and systems that are not patented, but which are equal 
in value and often superior to those restricted by patents. These molds are very easily and 
cheaply constructed and embody simplicity, rapidity of operation, and the most successful 
results in the molded concrete. Each of these Twelve books is fully illustrated, and the 
subjects are exhaustively treated in plain English. 

CONCRETE WALL FORMS. By A. A. Houghton. 

A new automatic wall clamp is illustrated with working drawings. Other types of 

wall forms, clamps, separators, etc., are also illustrated and explained. 

(No. 1 of Series) 75 cents 

II 



CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS 

CONCRETE FLOORS AND SIDEWALKS. By A. A. Houghton. 

The molds for molding squares, hexagonal and many other styles of mosaic floor and 
sidewalk blocks are fully illustrated and explained. (No. 2 of Series) . . 75 cents 

PRACTICAL CONCRETE SILO CONSTRUCTION. By A. A. Houghton. 

Complete working drawings and specifications are given for several styles of concrete 
silos, with illustrations of molds for monolithic and block silos. The tables, data, and 
information presented in this book are of the utmost value in planning and constructing 
all forms of concrete silos. (No. 3 of Series) 75 cents 

MOLDING CONCRETE CHIMNEYS, SLATE AND ROOF TILES. By A. A. 

Houghton. 

The manufacture of a'l types of concrete slate and roof tile is fully treated. Valuable 
data on all forms of reinforced concrete roofs are contained within its pages. The 
construction of concrete chimneys by block and monolithic systems is fully illustrated 
and described. A number of ornamental designs of chimney construction with molds 
are shown in this valuable treatise. (No. 4 of Series.) 75 cents 

MOLDING AND CURING ORNAMENTAL CONCRETE. By A. A. Houghton. 

The proper iiroportions of cement and aggregates for various finishes, also the method 
of thoroughly mixing and placing in the molds, are fully treated. An exhaustive 
treatise on this subject that every concrete worker will find of daily use and value. 
(No. 5 of Series.) 75 cents 

CONCRETE MONUMENTS, MAUSOLEUMS AND BURLAL VAULTS. By 
A. A. Houghton. 

The molding of concrete monuments to imitate the most expensive cut stone is ex- 
plained in this treatise, with working drawings of easily built molds. Cutting in- 
scriptions and designs are also fully treated. (No. 6 of Series.) ... 75 cents 

MOLDING CONCRETE BATHTUBS, AQUARIUMS AND NATATORIUMS. 
By A. A. Houghton. 

Simple molds and instruction are given for molding many styles of concrete bathtubs, 
swimming-pools, etc. These molds are easily built and permit rapid and successful 
work. (No. 7 of Series.) 75 cents 

CONCRETE BRIDGES, CULVERTS AND SEWERS. By A. A. Houghton. 

A lunnber of ornamental concrete bridges with illustrations of molds are given. A 
collapsible center or core for bridges, culverts and sewers is fully illustrated with de- 
tailed instructions for building. (No. 8 of Series.) 75 cents 

CONSTRUCTING CONCRETE PORCHES. By A. A. Houghton. 

A number of designs with working drawings of molds are fully explained so any one 
can easily construct different styles of ornamental concrete porches without the pur- 
chase of expensive molds. (No. 9 of Series.) 75 cents 

MOLDING CONCRETE FLOWER-POTS, BOXES, JARDINIERES, ETC. 
By A. A. Houghton. 

The molds for producing many original designs of flower-pots, urns, flower -boxes, 
jardinieres, etc., are fully illustrated and explained, so the worker can easily construct 
and operate same. (No. 10 of Series.) 75 cents 

MOLDING CONCRETE FOUNTAINS AND LAWN ORNAMENTS. By A. 
A. Houghton. 

The molding of a number of designs of lawn seats, curbing, hitching posts, pergolas, sun 
dials and other forms of ornamental concrete for the ornamentation of lawns and gar- 
dens, is fully illustrated and described. (No. 11 of Series) 75 cents 

CONCRETE FROM SAND MOLDS. By A. A. Houghton. 

A Practical Work treating on a process which has heretofore been held as a trade secret 
bv the few who possessed it, and which will successfully mold every and any class of 
ornamental concrete work. The process of molding concrete with sand molds is of 

12 



CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS 

the utmost practical value, possessing; the manifold advantages of a low cost of molds, 
the ease and rapidity of operation, perfect details to all ornamental designs, density 
and increased strength of the concrete, perfect curing of the work without attention 
and the easy removal of the molds regardless of any undercutting the design may have. 
192 pages. Fully illustrated. Price $2.00 

ORNAMENTAL CONCRETE WITHOUT MOLDS. By A. A. Houghton. 

The process for making ornamental concrete without molds has long been held as a 
secret, and now. for the first time, this process is given to the public. The book 
revQals the secret and is the only book published which explains a simple, practical 
method whereby the concrete worker is enabled, by employing wood and metal tem- 
plates of different designs, to mold or model in concrete any Cornice, Archivolt, 
Column, Pedestal. Base Cap. Urn or Pier in a monolithic form — right upon the job. 
These may be molded in units or blocks, and then built up to suit the specifications 
demanded. This work is fully illustrated, with detailed engravings. Price . $2.00 

CONCRETE FOR THE FARM AND IN THE SHOP. By H. Colin 
Campbe-ll, C.E., E.M. 

"Concrete for the Farm and in the Shop" is a new book from cover to cover, illustrat- 
ing and describing in plain, simple language many of the numerous applications of 
concrete within the range of the home worker. Amiong the subjects treated are: 
Principles of reinforcing ; methods of protecting concrete so as to insure proper harden- 
Ing; home-made mixers; mixing by hand and maciiine; form construction, described 
and illustrated by drawings and photographs; construction of concrete walls and 
fences; concrete fence posts; concrete gate posts; corner posts; clothes line posts; 
grape arVjor posts; tanks; troughs; cisterns; hog wallows; feeding floors and barn- 
yard pavements ; foundat ions ; well curbs and platforms ; indoor floors ; sidewalks ; steps ; 
concrete hotbeds and cold frames ; concrete slab roofs ; walls for buildings ; repairing 
leaks in tanks and cisterns; and all topics associated with these subjects as bearing 
upon securing the best results from concrete are dwelt upon at sufficient length in plain 
every-day English so that the inexperienced person desiring to undertake a piece of 
concrete construction can. by following the directions set forth in this book, secure 100 
per cent success every time. A number of convenient and practical tables for estimating 
quantities, and some practical examples, are also given. (5x7). 149 pages, 51 il- 
lustrations. Price $1.00 

POPULAR HANDBOOK FOR CEMENT AND CONCRETE USERS. By 

Myron H. Lewis. 

This is a concise treatise of the principles and methods employed in the manufacture 
and use of cement in all classes of modern works. The author has brought together 
in this work all the salient matter of interest to the user of concrete and its many 
diversified products. The matter is presented in logical and systematic order, clearly 
written, fully illustrated and free from involved mathematics. Everything of value to 
the concrete user is given, including kinds of cement employed in construction, concrete 
architecture, inspection and testing, waterproofing, coloring and painting, rules, tables, 
working and cost data. The book comprises thirty-three chapters, as follows: 
Introductory. Kinds of Cements and How They are Made. Properties. Testing 
and Requireraents of Hydraulic Cement. Concrete and its Properties. Sand, Broken 
Stone and Grave for Concrete. How to Proportion the Materials. How to Mix 
and Place Concrete. Foi'nis of Concrete Construction. The Architectural and Artistic 
Possibhities of Concrete. Concrete Residences. Mortars. Plasters and Stucco, and 
How to Use them. The Artistic Treatment of Concrete Surfaces. Concrete Building 
Blocks. The Making of Ornamental Concrete. Concrete Pipes, Fences. Posts, etc. 
Essential Features and Advantages of Reenforced Concrete. How to Design Reen- 
forced Concrete Beams. Slabs and Columns. Explanations of the Methods and 
Principles in Designing Reenforced Concrete Beams and Slabs. Systems of Reen- 
forcement Employed. Reenforced Concrete in Factory and General Building Con- 
struction. Concrete in Foundation Work. Concrete Retaining Walls, Abutments 
and Bulkheads. Concrete Arches and Arch Bridges. Concrete Beam and Girder 
Bridges. Concrete in Sewerage and Drainage Works. Concrete Tanks. Dams and 
Reservoirs. Concrete Sidewalks. Curbs and Pavements. Concrete in Railroad Con- 
structions. The Utility of Concrete on the Farm. The Waterproofing of Concrete 
Structure. Grout of Liquid Concrete and Its Use. Inspection of Concrete Work. Cost 
of Concrete Work. Some of the special features of the book are: 1. The Attention 
Paid to the Artistic and Architectural Side of Concrete Work. 2. The Authoritative 

13 



CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS 

Treatment of the Problem of Waterprooflns Concrete. 3. An Excellent Summary of 
the Rules to be Followed in Concrete Construction. 4. The Valuable Cost Data and 
Useful Tables given. A valuable Addition to the Library of Every Cement and 
Concrete User. Price $8.00 

WHAT IS SAID OF THIS BOOK: 
"The field of Concrete Construction is well covered and the matter contained is well 
within the imderstanding of any person." — Engineering-Contracling. 
"Should be on the bookshelves of every contractor, engineer, and architect in the 
land." — National Builder. 

WATERPROOFING CONCRETE. By Myron H. Lewis. 

Modern Methods of Waterproofing Concrete and Other Structures. A condensed 
statement of the Principles, Rules, and Precautions to be Observed in Waterproofing 
and Dampprooflng Structures and Structural ^Materials. Paper binding. Illustrated. 
Price . . 75 cents 

DICTIONARIES 

STANDARD ELECTRICAL DICTIONARY. By T. O'Conor Sloane. 

An indispensa))le work to all interested in electrical science. Suitable alike for the 
student and professional. A practical handbook of reference containing definitions of 
about 5000 distinct words, terms and phrases. The definitions are terse and concise 
and include every term used in electrical science. Recently issued. An entirely new 
edition. Should be in the possession of all who desire to keep abreast with the progress 
of this branch of science. Complete, concise and convenient. Nearly SOO pages. Nearly 
500 illu.strations. 1920 Revised and Enlarged Edition. Price $5.00 

AVIATION TERMS— ENGLISH-FRENCH; FRENCH-ENGLISH. By Major 
Victor W. Page, A.S., S.C.U.S.R., and Lieut. Paul Montariol of the 
French Flying Corps. 

A complete glossary of practically all terms used in aviation, having lists in both 
French and EngUsh with equivalents in either language. Include all words in 
common use. A complete, well illustrated volume intended to facilitate conversa- 
tion between English-speaking and French aviators. The lists are confined to essen- 
tials, and special folding i^lates are included to show all important airplane parts. 
The Usts are divided into four sections: 1. Flying Field Terms. 2. The Airplane. 
3. The Engine. 4. Tools and Shop Terms. Should be in every aviator's and 
mechanic's kit. Price $1.00 

DIES— METAL WORK 

DIES: THEIR CONSTRUCTION AND USE FOR THE MODERN WORKING 
OF SHEET METALS. By J. V. Woodworth. 

A most useful book, and one which should be in the hands of all engaged in the press 
working of metals: treating on the Designing, Constructing, and Use of Tools. Fixtures 
and Devices, toscether with the manner in which they should be used in the Power 
Press, for the cheap and rapid production of the great variety of sheet-metal articles 
now in use. It is designed as a guide to the production of sheet-metal parts at the 
minimum of cost with the maximum of output. The hardening and tempering of 
Press tools and the classes of work which may be produced to the l)est advantage by 
the use of dies in the power press are fully treated. Its 505 illustrations show dies, 
press fixtures and sheet-metal working devices, the descriptions of which are .so clear and 
practical that all metal-working mechanics will be able to understand how to design, 
construct and use them. Many of the dies and press fixtures treated were either 
constructed by the author or under his supervision. Others were built by skilful 
mechanics and are in use in large sheet-metal establishments and machine shops. 
6th Edition. Price $8.50 



14 



CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS 



PUNCHES, DIES AND TOOLS FOR MANUFACTURING IN PRESSES. By 

J. V. WOODWORTH. 

This work is a companion volume to the author's elementary work entitled "Dies, Their 
Construction and Use." It does not go into the details of die-making to the extent of 
the author's previous book, but gives a comprehensive review of the field of operation> 
carried on by presses. A large part of the information givea has been drawn from the 
author's personal experience. It might well be termed an Encyclopedia of Die-Making, 
Punch-Making, Die-Sinking, Sheet-Metal Working, and Making of Special Tools, Sub- 
presses, Devices and Mechanical Combinations for Punching, Cutting, Bending, Form- 
ing, Piercing, Drawing, Compressing and Assembling Sheet-Metal Parts, and also Arti- 
cles of other iMaterials in Machine Tools. 2d Edition. Price $4.50 

DROP FORGING, DIE-SINKING AND MACHINE-FORMING OF STEEL. 

By J. V. WoODWORTH. 

This is a practical treatise on Modern Shop Practice, Processes, Methods, Machine 
Tools, and Details treating on the Hot and Cold Machine-Forming of Steel and Iron 
into Finished Shapes: together with Tools, Dies, and Machinery involved in the 
manufacture of Duplicate Forgings and Interchangeable Hot and Cold Pressed Parts 
from Bar and Sheet Metal. This book fills a demand of long standing for information 
regarding drop-forgings, die-sinking and machine-forming of steel and the shop 
practice involved, as it actually exists in the modern drop-forging shop. The processes 
of die-sinking and force-making, which are thoroughly described and illustrated in this 
admirable work, are rarely to be found explained in such a clear and concise manner 
as is here set forth. The process of die-sinking relates to the engraving or sinking of 
the female or lower dies, such as are used for drop forgings, hot and cold machine 
forging, swedging and the press working of metals. The process of force-making 
relates to the engraving or raising of the male or upper dies used in producing the 
lower dies for the press-forming and machine-forging of duphcate parts of metal. 
In addition to the arts above mentioned the book contains expUcit information re- 
garding the drop-forging and hardening plants, designs, conditions, equipment, drop 
hammers, forging machines, etc., machine forging, hydraulic forging, autogenous 
welding and shop practice. The book contains eleven chapters, and the information 
contained in these chapters is just what will prove most valuable to the forged-metal 
worker. All operations described in the work are thoroughly illustrated by means of 
perspective half-tones and outline sketches of the machinery employed. 300 detailed . 
illustrations. Price $3.00 



DRAWING— SKETCHING PAPER 



PRACTICAL PERSPECTIVE. By Richards and Colvin. 

Shows just how to make all kinds of mechanical drawings in the only practical per- 
spective isometric. Makes everything plain so that any mechanic can understand 
a sketch or drawing in this way. Saves time in the drawing room, and mistakes in the 
shops. Contains practical examples of various classes of work. 4th Edition. 75 cents 

LINEAR PERSPECTIVE SELF-TAUGHT. By Herman T. C. Kraus. 

This work gives the theory and practice of Unear perspective, as used in architectural, 
engineering and mechanical drawings. Persons taking up the study of the subject 
by themselves will be able, by the use of the instruction given, to readily grasp the 
subject, and by reasonable practice become good perspective draftsmen. The arrange- 
ment of the book is good: the plate is on the left-hand, while the descriptive text 
follows on the opposite page, so as to be readily referred to. The drawings are on 
sufficiently large scale to show the work clearly and are plainly figured. There is 
included a self-explanatory chart which gives all information necessary for the thorough 
understanding of perspective. This chart alone is worth many times over the price of 
the book. 2d Revised and enlarged Edition $3.00 

IS 



CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS 

SELF-TAUGHT MECHANICAL DRAWING AND ELEMENTARY MACHINE 
DESIGN. By F. L. Sylvester, M.E., Draftsman, with additions by Erik 
Oberg, associate editor of "Machinery." 

This is a practical treatise on Mechanical Drawing and Machine Design, comprising 
the first principles of geometric and mechanical drawing, workshop mathematics, 
mechanics, strength of materials and the calculations and design of machine details. 
The author's aim has been to adapt this treatise to the requirements of the practical 
mechanic and yoimg draftsman and to present the matter in as clear and concise a 
manner as possible. To meet the demands of this class of students, practically all the 
important elements of machine design have been dealt with, and in addition algebraic 
formulas have been explained, and the elements of trigonometry treated in the manner 
best suited to the needs of the practical man. The boolc is divided into 20 chapters, 
and in arranging the material, mechanical drawing, pure and simple, has been taken 
up first, as a thorough imderstanding of the principles of representing objects facilitates 
the further study of mechanical subjects. This is followed by the mathematics neces- 
sary for the solution of the problems in machine design which are presented later, and 
a practical introduction to theoretical mechanics and the strength of materials. The 
various elements entering into machine design, such as cams, gears, sprocket-wheels, 
cone pulleys, bolts, screws, couplings, clutches, shafting and fiy-wheels. have been 
treated in such a way as to make possible the use of the work as a te.xt-book for a 
continuous course of study. It is easily comprehended and assimilated even by 
students of Umited previous training. 330 pages, 215 engravings. Price . . $2.50 

A NEW SKETCHING PAPER. 

A new specially ruled paper to enable you to make sketches or drawings in isometric 
perspective without any figuring or fussing. It is being used for shop details as well 
as for assembly drawings, as it makes one sketch do the work of three, and no workman 
can help seeing just what is wanted. Pads of 40 sheets, 6.x9 inches, 25 cents. Pads 
of 40 sheets, 9x12 inches, 50 cents; 40 sheets. 12x18, Price $1.00 

ELECTRICITY 

ARITHMETIC OF ELECTRICITY. By Prof. T. O'Conoe Sloane. 

A practical treatise on electrical calculations of all kinds reduced to a series of rules, all 
of the simplest forms, and involving only ordinary arithmetic; each rule illustrated 
by one or more practical problems, with detailed solution of each one. This book is 
classed among the most useful works published on the science of electricity, covering 
as it does the mathematics of electricity in a manner that will attract the attention 
of those who are not famiUar with algebraical formulas. 20th Edition. 160 pages. 
Price -. $1.50 

COMMUTATOR CONSTRUCTION. By Wm. Baxter, Jr. 

The business end of any dynamo or motor of the direct current type is the commutator. 
This boolv goes into the designing, building, and maintenance of commutators, shows 
how to locate troubles and how to remedy them; everyone who fusses with dynamos 
needs this. 4th Edition 35 cents 

DYNAMO BUILDING FOR AMATEURS, OR HOV/ TO CONSTRUCT A 
FIFTY- WATT DYNAMO. By Arthur J. Weed, Member of N. Y. Electrical 
Society. 

A practical treatise showing in detail the construction of a small dynamo or motor, the 
entire machine work of which can be done on a small foot lathe. Dimensioned working 
drawings are given for each piece of machine work, and each operation is clearly 
described. This machine, when used as a dynamo, has an output of fifty watts; when 
used as a motor it will drive a small drill press or lathe. It can be used to drive a 
sewing machine on any and all ordinary work. The book is illustrated with more 
than sixty original engravings showing the actual construction of the different parts. 
Among the contents are chapters on: 1. Fifty- Watt Dynamo. 2. Side Bearing 

i6 



CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS 



Rods. 3. Field Punching. 4. Bearings. 5. Commutator. 6. Pulley. 7. Brush 
Holders. 8. Connection Board. 9. Armature Shaft. 10. Armature. II. Armature 
Wmdmg. 12. Field Winding. 13. Connecting and Starting. Price, cloth, $1.00 

ELECTRIC WIRING, DIAGRAMS AND SWITCHBOARDS. By Newton 
Harrison. 

A thoroughly practical treatise covering the subject of Electric Wiring in all its branches, 
including explanations and diagrams which are thoroughly explicit and greatly simplify 
the subject. Practical, every-day problems in wiring are presented and the method 
of obtaining intelUgent results clearly shown. Only arithmetic is used. Ohm's law 
is given a smiple explanation with reference to wiring for direct and alternatin<r 
cui-rents. The fundamental principle of drop of potential in circuits is shown with its 
various apphcations. The simple circuit is developed with the position of mains 
feeders and branches; their treatment as a part of a wiring plan and their employ- 
ment in house wiring clearly illustrated. Some simple facts about testing are included 
in connection with the wiring. Molding and conduit work are given careful considera- 
tion; and switchboards are systematically treated, built up and illustrated, showing 
the purpose they serve, for connection with the circuits, and to shunt and compound 
wound machines. The simple principles of switchboard construction, the develop- 
ment of the switchboard, the connections of the various instruments, including the 
lightning arrester, are also plainly set forth. 

Alternating current wiring is treated, with explanations of the power factor, conditions 
calUng for various sizes of wire, and a simple way of obtaining the sizes for single-phase, 
two-phase and three-phase circuits. This is the only complete work i.ssued showing 
and telUng you what you should know about direct and alternating current wiring. It 
is a ready reference. The work is free from advanced technicalities and mathematics, 
arithmetic being used throughout. It is in every respect a handy, well-written, 
instructive, comprehensive volume on wiring for the wireman, foreman, contractor, 
or electrician. 272 pages; 105 illustrations. Price $2.50 

ELECTRIC TOY MAKING, DYNAMO BUILDING, AND ELECTRIC MOTOR 
CONSTRUCTION. By Prof. T. O'Conor Sloane. 

This work treats of the making at home of electrical toys, electrical apparatus, motors, 
dynamos and instruments in general, and is designed to bring within the reach of 
yoxmg and old the manufacture of genuine and useful electrical appliances. The work 
is especially designed for amateurs and young folks. 

Thousands of our young people are daily experimenting, and busily engaged in making 
electrical toys and apparatus of various kinds. The present work is just what is want- 
ed to give the much needed information in a plain, practical manner, with illustrations 
to make easy the carrying out of the work. 20th Edition. Price . . . . $1.50 

ELECTRICI/^NS' HANDY BOOK. By Prof. T. O'Conor Sloane. 

This work is intended for the practical electrician who has to make things go. The 
entire field of electricitv is covered within its pages. Among some of the subjects treated 
are; The Theory of the Electric Current and Circuit, Electro-Chemistry, Primary 
Batteries, Storage Batteries, Generation and UtiUzatlon of Electric Powers, Alter- 
nating Current, Armature Winding, Dynamos and Motors, Motor Generators, 
Operation of the Central Station Switchboards, Safety Appliances, Distribution 
of Electric Light and Power, Street Mains, Transformers, Arc and Incandescent 
Lighting, Electric INIeasurenients, Photometry, Electric Railways, Telephony, Bell- 
Wiring, Electric-Plating, Electric Heating, Wireless Telegraphy, etc. It contains no 
useless theory; everyihing Is to the point. It teaches you just what you want to 
know about "electricitv. It is the standard work pubUshed on the subject. Forty- 
si.< chapters, 600 engravings. 1920 Revised and Enlarged Edition. Price . $4.00 

ELECTRICITY SIMPLIFIED. By Prof. T. O'Conor Sloane. 

The object of "Electridtv Simplified" is to make the subject as plain as possible and 
to show what the modern conception of electricity is ; to show how two plates pt 
different metal, immersed in acid, can send a message around the globe; to explain 
how a bundle of copper wire rotated by a steam engine can be the agent in lighting 
our streets to tell what the volt, ohm and ampere are, and what high and low tension 
mean; and to answer the questions that perpetually arise in the mind in this age of 
electricity. 13th Edition. 172 pages. lUustrated. Pnce $1.50 

17 



CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS 

EXPERIMENTAL WIRELESS STATIONS. By P. E. Edelman. 

The theory, design, construction and operation is fully treated including Wireless 
Telephony, Vacuum Tube, and quenclied si)ark systems. The new enlarged 1920 
edition is "just issued and is strictly up to date, correct and complete. TMs book tells 
how to make api^aratus to not only liear all telephoned and telegraphed radio mess- 
ages, but also how to make simple equipment that works for transmission over rea- 
sonably long distances. Then there is a host of new information included. The 
first and onlv book to give vou all the recent important racUo improvements, some 
of which have never before been published. This \olume anticipates every need of 
the reader who wants the gist of the art. its principles, simplified calculations, appara- 
tus dimensions, and understandable directions for etlicient operation. 
Vacuum t«be circuits; ampUflers; long-cUstance sets; loop, coil, and underground 
receivers; tables of wave-lengths, capacity, inductance; such are a few of the sub- 
jects presented in detail that satisfies. It is independent and one of the few that 
describe all modern systems. 

Endorsed In foremost instructors for its clear accuracy, preferred by leading amateurs 
for its dependalile tlesigns. The new experimental Wireless Stations is sure to be most 
satisfactory for your purposes. 24 chapters. 167 illustrations. Price . . ij>3.00 

HOU.se wiring. By Thomas W. Poppe. 

This work describes and illustrates the actual installation of Electric Light Wiring, 
the manner in which the work should be done, and the method of doing it. The book 
can be conveniently carried in the pocket. It is intended for the Electrician, Helper 
and Apprentice. It solves all Wiring Problems and contains nothing that conflicts 
with the rulings of the National Board of Fire Underwriters. It gives just the informa- 
tion essential to the Successful Wiring of a Building. Among the subjects treated are: 
Locating the Meter. Panel Boards. Switches. Plug Receptacles. Brackets. Ceihng 
Fixtures. The Meter Connections. The Feed Wires. The Steel Armored Cable 
System. The Fle.xible Steel Conduit System. The Ridlg Conduit System. A digest 
of the National Board of Fire Underwriters' rules relating to metallic wiring systems. 
Various switching arrangements explained and diagrammed. The easiest method of 
testing the Three- and Four-Way circuits explained. The grounding of all metallic 
wiring systems and the reason for doing so shown and explained. The insulation of 
the metal parts of lamp fixtures and the reason for the same described and illustrated. 
125 pages. 2nd Edition, revised aiM enlarged. Fully illustrated. Flexible clotli. 

Price $1-00 

WHAT IS SAID OF THIS BOOK: 
"The information given is exact and e.>chaustive without being too technical or over- 
laden with details." — Druggists' Circular. 

HOW TO BECOME A SUCCESSFUL ELECTRICIAN. By Prof. T. O'Conor 

Sloane. 

Every young man who wishes to become a successful electrician should read this book. 
It tells in simple language the surest and easiest way to become a successful electrician. 
The studies to be followed, methods of work, field of operation and the requirements 
of the successful electrician are pointed out and fully explained. Every young en- 
gineer will find this an excellent stepping stone to more advanced works on electricity 
which he must master before success can be attained. Many young men become dis- 
couraged at the very outstart by attempting to read and study books that are far 
beyond their comprehension. This book serves as the connecting link between the 
rudiments taught in the public schools and the real study of electricity. It is inter- 
esting from cover to cover. Eighteenth Revised Edition, just issued. 205 pages. 
Illustrated. Price $1.50 

STANDARD ELECTRICAL DICTIONARY. By T. O'Conor Sloane. 

An indispensable work to all interested in electrical science. Suitable alike for the 
student and professional. A practical handbook of reference containing definitions 
of about 5,000 distmct words, terms and phrases. The definitions are terse and 
concise and include every term used in electrical science. Recently issued. An en- 
tirely new edition. Should be in the possession of all who desire to keep abreast with 
the progress of this branch of science. In its arrangement and typography the book 
is very convenient. The word or term defined is printed in black-faced type which 
readily catches the eye, while the body of the page is in smaller but distinct type. The 
definitions are well worded, and so as to be understood by the non- technical reader. 
The general plan seems to be to give an exact, concise definition, and then ampUfy 
and explain in a more popular way. Synonyms are also given, and references to other 



CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS 

words and phrases are made. A very complete and accurate index of fifty pages is 
at the end of the vohime ; and as this index contains all synonyms, and as all phrases 
are indexed in every reasonable combination of words, reference to the proper place 
in the body of the book is readily made. It is difficult to decide how far a book of 
this character is to keep the dictionary form, and to what extent it may assume the 
encyclopedia form. For some purposes, concise, exactly worded definitions are needed ; 
for other purposes, more extended descriptions are required. This book seeks to satisfy 
both demands, and does it with considerable success. Complete, concise and con- 
venient. 800 pages. Nearly 500 illustrations. 1920 Revised and Enlarged Edition. 
Price $5.00 

SWITCHBOARDS. By William Baxter, Jr. 

This book appeals to every engineer and electrician who wants to know the practical 
side of things. It takes up all sorts and conditions of dynamos, connections and 
circuits, and shows by diagram and illustration just how the switchboard should be 
connected. Includes direct and alternating current boards, also those for arc lighting, 
incandescent and power circuits. Special treatment on high voltage boards for power 
transmission. 2d Edition. 190 pages. Illustrated. Price $2.00 

TELEPHONE CONSTRUCTION, INSTALLATION, WIRING, OPERATION 
AND MAINTENANCE. By W. H. Radcliffe and H. C. Gushing. 

This book is intended for the amateur, the wireman, or the engineer who desires to 
establish a means of telephonic commimication between the rooms of his home, office, 
or shop. It deals only with such things as may be of use to him rather than with 
theories. 

Gives the principles of construction and operation of both the Bell and Independent 
instruments ; approved methods of instalhng and wiring them ; the means of protecting 
them from lightning and abnormal currents; their connection together for operation 
as series or bridging stations; and rules for their inspection and maintenance. Line 
wiring and the wiring and operation of special telephone systems are also treated. 
Intricate mathematics are avoided, and all apparatus, circuits and systems are thor- 
oughly described. The appendix contains definitions of units and terms used in the 
text. Selected wiring tables, which are very helpful, are also included. Among the 
subjects treated are Construction, Operation, and Installation of Telephone Instru- 
ments; Inspection and Maintenance of Telephone Instruments; Telephone Line 
Wiring ; Testing Telephone Line Wires and Cables ; Wiring and Operation of Special 
Telephone Systems, etc. 2nd Edition, revised and enlarged. 223 pages. 1.54 
illustrations $1.50 

WIRELESS TELEGRAPHY AND TELEPHONY SIMPLY EXPLAINED. By 

Alfred P. Morgan. 

This is undoubtedly one of the most complete and comprehensible treatises on the 
subject ever published, and a close study of its pages will enable one to master all the 
details of the wireless transmission of messages. The author has filled a long-felt 
want and has succeeded in furnishing a lucid, comprehensible explanation in simple 
language of the theory and practice of wireless telegraphy and telephony. 
Among the contents are: Introductory; Wireless Transmission and Reception — The 
Aerial System, Earth Comiections — The Transmitting Apparatus, Spark Coils and 
Transformers, Condensers, Helixes, Spark Gaps, Anchor Gaps, Aerial Switches — The 
Receiving Apparatus, Detectors, etc. — Tuning and Coupling, Tuning Coils, Loose 
Couplers, Variable Condensers, Directive Wave Systems — Miscellaneous Apparatus, 
Telephone Receivers, Range of Stations, Static Interference — Wireless Telephones, 
Sound and Sound Waves, The Vocal Cords and Ear — Wireless Telephone, How Sounds 
Are Changed into Electric Waves — Wireless Telephones, The Apparatus — Summary. 
154 pages. 156 engravings. Price $1.50 

WHAT IS SAID OF THIS BOOK: 
"This book should be in both the home and school library." — The Youths' Instructor. 

WIRING A HOUSE. By Herbert Pratt. 

Shows a house already built; tells just how to start about wiring it; where to begin; 
what wire to use; how to run it according to Insurance Rules; in fact, just the informa- 
tion you need. Directions apply equally to a shop. Fourth edition . . 85 cents 

19 



CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS 

RADIO TIME SIGNAL RECEIVER. By Austin C. Lescarboura. 

This new book, "A Radio Time Signal Receiver," tells you how to build a simple 
outfit designed expressly for tlie beginner. You can build the outfits in your own 
worltshop and install them for jewelers either on a one-payment or a rental basis. 
The apparatus is of such simple design tliat it may be made by the average amateur 
mechanic possessing a few ordinary tools. 42 pages. Paper. Price . . 35 cents 

CONSTRUCTION OF A TRANSATLANTIC WIRELESS RECEIVING SET. 

By L. G. Pacent and T. S. Curtis. 

A work for the Radio student who desires to construct and operate apparatus that 
will permit of the reception of messages from the large stations in Eiu'ope with an 
aerial of amateur proportions. 36 pages. 23 illustrations, cloth. Price . 85 cents 

ELECTRIC BELLS. By M. B. Sleeper. 

A complete treatise for the practical worker in installing, operating, and testing 
bell circuits, burglar alarms, thermostats, and other apparatus used with electric 
bells. Both the electrician and the experimenter will find in this book new material 
which is essential in their work. Tools, bells, batteries, imusual circuits, burglar 
alarms, annunciators, systems, thermostats, circuit breakers, time alarms, and other 
apparatus used in bell circuits are described from the standpoints of their appUca- 
tion, construction, and repair. The detailed Instructions for building the apparatus 
■will appeal to the experimenter particularly. The practical worker will find the 
chapters on Wiring Calculation of Wire Sizes and Magnet Windings, Upkeep of 
Systems and the Location of Faults of the greatest value in their work. 124 pages. 
Fully illustrated. Price 75 cents 

EXPERIMENTAL HIGH FREQUENCY APPARATUS — HOW TO MAKE 
AND USE IT. By Thomas Stanley Curtis. 

This book tells you how to build simple higli frequoncy roils for experimental purpose 
in the home, school laboratory, or on the small Iccluri' i)latform. The book is really 
a supplement to the same author's "Higli Frctiuency Ap|)aratus." The experimental 
side only is covered in tliis volume, which is intended for those who want to build 
small coils giving up to an eighteen-inch spark. The book contains valuable in- 
formation for the physics or the manual training teacher wlio is on the lookout for 
Interesting projects for liis boys to build or experiment with. The apparatus is 
simple, cheap and perfectly safe, and with it some truly startling experiments may be 
performed. Among tlie contents are; Induction Coil Outfits Operated on Battery 
Current. Kicking Coil Apparatus. One-Half Kilowatt Transformer Outfit. Parts 
and Materials, etc. , etc. 69 pages. Illustrated. Price 50 cents 

HIGH FREQUENCY APPARATUS, ITS CONSTRUCTION AND PRACTICAL 
APPLICATION. By Thomas Stanley Curtis 

The most comprehensive and thorough work on this interesting subject ever produced. 
The book is essentially practical in its treatment and it constitutes an accvirate record 
of tlie researches of its author over a period of several years, during wliich time dozens 
of coils were built and experimented with Tlie work has been divided into six basic 
parts. The first two cliapters tell the xminitiated reader what the liigh frequency 
current is, what it is used for, and how it is produced. The second section, comprising 
four chapters, describes m detail tlie principles of the transformer, condenser, spark 
gap, and oscillation transformer, and covers the main points in the design and con- 
struction of these devices as apphed to the work in hand. The tliird section covers 
the construction of smaU high frequency outfits designed for experimental work in the 
home laboratory or in the classroom. The fourth section is devoted to electro- 
therapeutic and X-Ray apparatus. The fifth describes apparatus for the cultivation 
of plants and vegetables. The sixth section is devoted to a comprehensive discussion 
of apparatus of large size for use upon the stage in spectacular productions. The 
closing chapter, giving the current prices of the parts and materials required for the 
construction of the apparatus described, is included with a \iew to expediting the 
purchase of the necessary goods. The Second Edition includes much new matter 
along the line of home-made therapeutic outfits for physicians' use. The matter on 
electro plant culture has also been elaborated upon. Second Revised and Enlarged 
Edition. 248 pages. 1920. Fully iUustrated. Price $3.00 

20 



C ATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS 

STORAGE BATTERIES SIMPLIFIED. Bt Victor W. Page, M.S.A.E. 

A complete treatise on storage battery operating principles, repairs and applications. 
The greatly increasing application of storage batteries in modem engineering and 
mechanical" work has created a demand for a book that will consider tlus subject 
completely and exclusively. Tliis is the most thorough and authoritative treatise 
ever pubUshed on tliis subject. It is \vritten in easily understandable, non teclmical 
language so that anv one may grasp the basic principles of storage battery action as 
well as theu- practical industrial apphcations. All electric and gasoUne automobiles 
use storage batteries. Every automobile repairman, dealer or salesman should have a 
good knowledge of maintenance and repair of these important elements of the motor 
car mechanism. Tliis book not only tells how to charge, care for and rebuild storage 
batteries but also outUnes all the industrial uses. Learn how they run street cars, 
locomotives and factory trucks. (.Jet an understanding of the important fimctions they 
perform in submarine boats, isolated hghting plants, railway switch and signal systems, 
marine apphcations, etc. Tliis book tells how they are used in central station standby 
service, for starting automobile motors an'd in ignition systems. Every practical use 
of the modern storage battery is outlined in this treatise. 

Chapters contained are: Chapter 1 — Storage Battery Development — Types of Storage 
Batteries— Lead Plate Types— The Edison Cell. Chapter 2 — Storage Battery 
Construction — Plates and Grids — Plante Plates — Faure Plates — Non-Lead Plates — 
Commercial Battery Designs. Chapter 3 — Charging INlethods — Rectifiers — Con- 
verters — Rheostats — Rules for Charging. Chapter 4 — Battery Repairs and Main- 
tenance. Chapter 5 — Industrial Apphcation of Storage Batteries — Glossary of 
Storage Battery Terms. 208 pages. Fully illustrated. Price .... $2.00 



ELECTROPLATING 



A NEW ELECTROPLATING BOOK. By Kenneth M. Coggeshall. 

This is one of the most complete and practical books on electroplating and alUed 
processes that has been published as a text for the student or professional plater. 
It is written in simple language and explains all details of electroplating in a concise 
yet complete manner. It starts at the beginning and gives an elementary outline 
of electricity and chemistry as relates to plating, then considers shop layout and 
equipment and gives all the necessary information to do reliable and profitable electro- 
plating in a modem commercial manner. Full instructions are given for the prepara- 
tion and finisMng of the work and formulae and complete directions are included for 
making all kinds of plating solutions, many of these having been trade secrets until 
pubhshed in tliis instruction manual. Any one interested in practical plating and 
metal finishing will find this book a valuable guide and complete manual of the art 
Cloth. 135 illustrations. Nearly 300 pages. Price $8.00 

FACTORY MANAGEMENT, ETC. 

MODERN MACHINE SHOP CONSTRUCTION, EQUIPMENT AND 
MANAGEMENT. By O. E. Perrigo, M.E. 

The only work pubUshed that describes the modern machine shop or manufacturing 
plant from the time the grass is growing on the site intended for it until the finished 
product is sliipped. By a careful study of its thirty-two chapters the practical man 
may economically build, efficiently equip, and successfully manage the modern machine 
shop or manufacturing establishment. .Just the book needed by those contemplating 
the erection of modern shop buildings, the rebuilding and reorganization of old ones, 
or the introduction of modern shop methods, time and cost systems. It is a 'book 
written and illustrated by a practical shop man for practical shop men who are too 
busy to read theories and want facts. It is the most complete all-around book of its 
kind ever published. It is a practical book for practical men. from the apprentice in 
the shop to the president in the office. It minutely describes and illustrates the most 
simple and yet the most efficient time and cost system yet devised. Price . $5.00 

21 



CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS 



FUEL 

COMBUSTION OF COAL AND THE PREVENTION OF SMOKJE. By Wm. 

M. Bark. 

This book has been prepared with special reference to the generation of heat by the 
combustion of the common fuels found in the United States, and deals particularly 
with the conditions necessary to the economic and smokeless combustion of bituminous 
coals in Stationary and Locomotive Steam Boilers. 

The presentation of this important subject is systematic and progressive. The ar- 
rangement of the book is in a series of practical questions to which are appended 
accurate answers, which describe in language, free from technicalities, the several 
processes involved in the furnace combustion of American fuels ; it clearly states the 
essential requisites for perfect combustion, and points out the best methods for furnace 
construction for obtaining the greatest quantity of heat from any given quality of 
coal. Nearly 350 pages, fully illustrated. Price $ 1 .50 

GAS ENGINES AND GAS 

THE GASOLINE ENGINE ON THE FARM: ITS OPERATION, REPAIR 

AND USES. By Xeno W. Putnam, 

This is a practical treatise on the Gasoline and Kerosene Engine intended for the man 
who wants to know just how to manage his engine and how to apply it to all kinds of 
farm work to the best advantage. 

This book abounds with hints and helps for the farm and suggestions for the home 
and housewife. There is so much of value in this book that it is impossible to ade- 
quately describe it in such small space. Suffice to say that it is the kind of a book 
every farmer will appreciate and every farm home ought to have. Includes selecting 
the most suitable engine for farm work, its most convenient and efficient installation, 
with chapters on troubles, their remedies, and how to avoid them. The care and 
management of the farm tractor in plowing, harrowing, harvesting and road grading 
are fully covered; also plain directions are given for handhng the tractor on the road. 
Special attention is given to relieving farm life of its drudgery by applying power to 
the disagreeable small tasks which must otherwise be done by hand. JNIany home- 
made contrivances for cutting wood, supplying kitchen, garden, and barn with water, 
loading, hauling and unloading hay, delivering grain to the bins or the feed trough 
are included: also full directions for making the engine milk the cows, churn, wash, 
sweep the house and clean the windows, etc. Very fully illustrated with drawings of 
working parts and cuts showing Stationary, Portable and Tractor Engines doing all 
kinds of farm work. All money-making farms utilize power. Learn how to utilize 
power by reading the pages of this book. It is an aid to the result getter, invaluable 
to the up-to-date farmer, student, blacksmith, implement dealer and. in fact, all who 
can apply practical knowledge of stationary gasoline engines or gas tractors to advan- 
tage. 530 pages. Nearly 180 engravings. Price $3.00 

WHAT IS SAID OF THIS BOOK: 
"Am much pleased with the book and find it to be very complete and up-to-date. 
I will heartily recommend it to students and farmers whom I think would stand in 
need of such a work, as I think it is an exceptionallv good one." — N. S. Gardiner, 
Prof, in Charge, Clemson Agr. College of S. C; Dept. of Agri. and Agri. Exp. Station, 
Clemson College, S. C. 

"I feel that INIr. Putnam's book covers the main points which a farmer should know." 
— R. T. Burdick, Instructor in Agronomy, University of "Vermont, Burlington, Vt. 
"It will be a valuable addition to our library upon Farm Machinery." — James A. 
Farra, Inst, in Agri. Engineering, State University of Ky., Lexington, Ky. 

GASOLINE ENGINES : THEIR OPERATION, USE AND CARE. By A. Hyatt 

Verrill. 

The simplest, latest and most comprehensive popular work published on Gasoline 
Engines, describing what the Gasoline Engine is: its construction and operation; how 
to install it; how to select it; how to use it and how to remedy troubles encountered, 

22 



CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS 

Intended for Owners, Operators and Users of Gasoline Motors of all kinds. This 
work fully describes and illustrates the various types of Gasoline Engines used in 
Motor Boats, Motor Vehicles and Stationary Work. The parts, accessories and 
appliances are described, with chapters on ignition, fuel, lubrication, operation and 
engine troubles. Special attention is given to the care, operation and repair of motors, 
with useful hints and suggestions on emergency repairs and makeshifts. A complete 
glossary of technical terms and an alphabetically arranged table of troubles and their 
symptoms form most valuable and unique features of this manual. Nearly every 
illustration in the book is original, having been made by the author. Every page is 
full of interest and value. A book which you cannot afford to be without. 275 pages. 
152 specially made engravings. Price $S.OO 

GAS, GASOLINE, AND OIL ENGINES. By Gakdner D. Hiscox. 

Just issued, 22d revised and enlarged edition. Every user of a gas engine needs this 
book. Simple, instructive, and right up-to-date. The only complete work on the 
subject. Tells all about the running and management of gas, gasoUne and oil engines, 
as designed and manufactured in the United States. Explosive motors for stationary 
marine and vehicle power are fully treated, together with illustrations of their parts 
and tabulated sizes, also their care and running are included. Electric ignition by 
Induction coil and jump spark are fully explained and illustrated, including valuable 
information on the testing for economy and power and the erection of power plants. 
The rules and regulations of the Board of Fire Underwriters in regard to the installation 
and management of gasoline motors are given in full, suggesting the safe installation 
of explosive motor power. A list of United States Patents issued on gas, gasoline, and 
oil engines and their adjimcts from 1875 to date is included. 640 pages. 435 engrav- 
ings. Folding plates. Price $8.00 

GAS ENGINE CONSTRUCTION, OR HOW TO BUILD A HALF-HORSE- 
POWER GAS ENGINE. By Parsell and Weed. 

A practical treatise of 300 pages describing the theory and principles of the action of 
Gas Engines of various types and the design and construction of a half-horse-power 
Gas Engine, with illustrations of the work in actual progress, together with the dimen- 
sioned working drawings, giving clearly the sizes of the various details: for the student, 
the scientific investigator, and the amateur mechanic. This book treats of the subject 
more from the standpoint of practice than that of theory. The principles of operation 
of Gas Engines are clearly and simply described, and then the actual construction of a 
half-horse-power engine is taken up, step by step, showing in detail the making of the 
Gas Engine. 3d Edition. 300 pages. Price $8.00 

HOW TO RUN AND INSTALL GASOLINE ENGINES. By C. Von Culin. 

Revised and enlarged edition 'just issued. The object of this little book is to furnish 
a pocket instructor for the beginner, the busy man who uses an engine for pleasure or 
profit, but who does not have the time or inclination for a technical book, but simply 
to thoroughly understand how to properly operate, install and care for his own engine. 
The index refers to each trouble, remedy, and subject alphabetically. Being a quick 
reference to find the cause, remedy and prevention for troubles, and to become an 
expert with his own engine. Pocket size. Paper binding. Price . . 25 cents 

THE MODERN GAS TRACTOR. By Victor W. Page. 

A complete treatise describing all types and sizes of gasoline, kerosene and oil tractors. 
Considers design and construction exhaustively, gives complete instructions for care, 
operation and repair, outlines all practical appUcations on the road and in the field. 
The best and latest work on farm tractors and tractor power plants. A work needed 
by farmers, students, blacksmiths, mechanics, salesmen, implement dealers, designers 
and engineers. 500 pages. Nearly 300 illustrations and folding plates. Price $3.00 

CHEMISTRY OF GAS MANUFACTURE. By H. M. Royle. 

This book covers points likely to arise in the ordinary course of the duties of the 
engineer or manager of a gas works not large enough to necessitate the employment 
of a separate chemical staff. It treats of tlie testing of the raw materials employed 
in the manufacture of illuminating coal gas and of the gas produced. The preparation 
of standard solutions is given as well as the chemical and physical examination of gas 
coal. 5%.x2,%. Cloth, 328 pages. 82 illustrations, 1 colored plate. Price $5.00 

23 



CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS 
GEARING AND CAMS 

BEVEL GEAR TABLES. By D. Ag. Engstrom. 

A book that will at once commond itself to mechanics and draftsmen. Does away 
with all the trisonometry and fancy figuring on bevel gears, and makes it easy for any- 
one to lay them out or make them just right. There are 36 full-page tables that 
show every necessary dimension for all sizes or combinations you're apt to need. No 
puzzUng, figuring or guessing. Gives placing distance, all the angles (including 
cutting angles), and the correct cutter to use. A copy of this prepares you for any- 
thing in the bevel-gear Une. 3d Edition. 66 pages $1.50 

CHANGE GEAR DEVICES. By Oscar E. Perrigo. 

A practical book for every designer, draftsman, and mechanic interested in the inven- 
tion and development of the devices for feed changes on the different machines requir- 
ing such mechanism. All the necessary information on this subject is taken up, 
analyzed, classified, sifted, and concentrated for the use of busy men who have not the 
time to go through the masses of irrelevant matter with which such a subject is usu- 
ally encumbered and select such information as will be useful to them. 
It shows just what has been done, how it has been done, when it was done, and who 
did it. It saves time in hunting up patent records and re-inventing old ideas. 88 
pages $1.50 

DRAFTING OF CAMS. By Loui3 Rouillion. 

The laying out of cams is a serious problem unless you know how to go at it right. 
This puts you on the right road for practically any kind of cam you are likely to run 
up against. 3d Edition 85 cents 

HYDRAULICS 

HYDRAULIC ENGINEERING. By Gardner D. Hlscox. 

A treatise on the properties, power, and resources of water for all purposes. Including 
the measurement of streams, the flow of water in pipes or conduits; the horse-power 
of falUng water, turbine and impact water-wheels, wave motors, centrifugal, recipro- 
cating and air-Uft pumps. With 300 figures and diagrams and 36 practical tables. 
AU who are interested in water-works development will find this book a useful one, 
because it is an entirely practical treatise upon a subject of present importance, and 
cannot fail in having a far-reaching influence, and for this reason should have a place 
in the working library of every engineer. Among the subjects treated are: Historical 
Hydraulics, Properties of Water, Measurement of the Flow of Streams; Flow 
from Sub-surface Orifices and Nozzles; Flow of Water in Pipes: Siphons of Various 
Kinds: Dams and Great Storage Reservoirs; City and Town Water Supply; Wells 
and Their Reinforcement; Air Lift Methods of Raising Water; Artesian Wells; 
Irrigation of Arid Districts; Water Pawer; Water Wheels; Pumps and Pumping 
Machinery; Reciprocating Pumps; Hydraulic Power Transmission; Hydraulic 
Mining; Canals; Ditches; Conduits and Pipe Lines; Marine Hydraulics; Tidal and 
Sea Wave Power, etc. 320 pages. Price *. $4.50 

ICE AND REFRIGERATION 



POCKETBOOK OF REFRIGERATION AND ICE MAKING. By A. J. 

Wallis-Taylor. 

Tliis is one of the latest and most comprehensive reference books pnbUshed on the 
subject of refrigeration and cola storage. It explains the properties and refrigerating 
effect of the different fluids in use, the management of refrigerating macliinery and the 
, construction and insulation of cold rooms with their required pipe surface for different 
degrees of cold ; freezing mixtures and non-freezing brines, temperatures of cold rooms 
for all kinds of provisions, cold storage charges for all classes of goods, ice making 
and storage of ice. data and memoranda for constant reference by refrigerating engineers, 
with nearly one himdred tables containing valuable references to every fact and con- 
dition required in the installment and operation of a refrigerating plant. New 
edition just published. Price $2.00 

24 



CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS 



INVENTIONS— PATENTS 

INVENTORS' MANUAL, HOW TO MAKE A PATENT PAY. 

This is a book designed as a guide to inventors in perfecting their inventions, taking 
out their patents and disposing of them. It is not in any sense a Patent Solicitor's 
Circular nor a Patent Broker's Advertisement. No advertisements of any description 
appear in the work. It is a book containing a quarter of a century's experience of a 
successful inventor, together with notes based upon the experience of many other 
inventors. 

Among the subjects treated in this work are: How to Invent. How to Secure a 
Good Patent. Value of Good Invention. How to Exhibit an Invention. How to 
Interest Capital. How to Estimate the Value of a Patent. Value of Design Patents. 
Value of Foreign Patents. Value of Small Inventions. Advice on Selling Patents. 
Advice on the Formation of Stock Companies. Advice on the Formation of Limited 
Liability Companies. Advice on Disposing of Old Patents. Advice as to Patent 
Attorneys. Advice as to Selling Agents. Forms of Assignments. License and Con- 
tracts. State Laws Concerning Patent Rights. 1900 Census of the United States by 
Counts of Over 10,000 Population. New revised and enlarged edition. 1-14 pages. 
Illustrated. Price $1.25 

KNOTS 

KNOTS, SPLICES AND ROPE WORK. By A. Hyatt Verrill. 

This is a practical book givdng complete and simple directions for making all the most 
useful and ornamental knots in common use, with chapters on Splicing, Pointing, 
Seizing, Serving, etc. This book is fully illustrated with one hundred and fifty 
original engravings, which show how each knot, tie or splice is formed, and its appear- 
ance when finished. The book will be found of the greate.st value to Campers, Yachts- 
men, Travelers, Boy Scouts, in fact, to anyone ha\ing occasion to use or handle rope 
or knots for any purpose. The book is thoroughly reliable and practical, and is not 
only a guide, but a teacher. It is the standard work on the subject. Among the 
contents are: 1. Cordage, Kinds of Rope. Con.struction of Rope, Parts of Rope 
Cable and Bolt Rope. Strength of Rope, Weight of Rope. 2. Simple Knots and 
Bends. Terms Used in Handhng Rope. Seizing Rope. 3. Ties and Hitches. 4. 
Noose, Loops and Mooring Knots. 5. Shortenings, Grommets and Salvages. 6. 
Lashings, Seizings and Splices. 7. Fancy Knots and Rope Work. 128 pages. 150 
original engravings. Price $1.00 

LATHE WORK 

LATHE DESIGN, CONSTRUCTION, AND OPERATION, WITH PRACTICAL 
• EXAMPLES OF LATHE WORK. By Oscar E. Perrigo. 

A new revised edition, and the only complete American work on the subject, written 
by a man who knows not only how work ought to be done, but who also knows how 
to do it, and how to convey this knowledge to others. It is strictly up-to-date in its 
descriptions and illustrations. Lathe history and the relations of the lathe to manu- 
facturing are given; also a description of the various devices for feeds and thread 
cutting mechanisms from early efforts in this direction to the present time. Lathe 
design is thoroughly discussed, including back gearing, driving cones, thread-cutting 
gears, and all the essential elements of the modern lathe. The classification of lathes 
is taken up, giving the essential differences of the several types of lathes including, 
as is usually understood, engine lathes, bench lathes, speed "lathes, forge lathes, gap 
lathes, pulley lathes, forming lathes, multiple-spindle lathes, rapid-reduction lathes, 
precision lathes, turret lathes, special lathes, electrically-driven lathes, etc. In addi- 
tion to the complete exposition on construction and design, much practical matter on 
lathe installation, care and operation has been incorporated in the enlarged 1915 edi- 
tion. All kinds of lathe attachments for drilling, milling, etc., are described and 
complete instructions are given to enable the novice machinist to grasp the art of lathe 
operation as well as the principles involved in design. A number of difficult machining 



25 



CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS 

operations are described at length and illustrated. The new edition has nearly 500 
pages and 350 illustrations. Price $3.00 

WHAT IS SAID OF THIS BOOK: 

" This is a lathe book from beginning to end, and is just the Idnd of a book which one 
dcUghts to consult, — a masterly ti-eatment of the subject in hand." — Engineering News. 
" This work will be of exceptional interest to anyone who is interested in lathe practice, 
as one very seldom sees such a complete treatise on a subject as this is on the lathe." — 
Canadian Machinery. 

LATHE WORK FOR BEGINNERS. By Raymond Francis Yates. 

A simple, straightforward textbook for those desiring to learn the operation of a 
wood-turning or metal-tm"ning lathe. The first chapter tells how" to choose a lathe 
and all of the standard types on the market are described. Simple and more advanced 
lathe work is thoroughly covered and the operation of all lathe attachments such as 
miUers. grinders, polishers, etc., is described. The treatment starts from the very 
bottom and leads the reader through to a point where he will be able to handle the. 
larger commercial machines with very little instruction. The last chapter of the 
book is devoted to things to make on the lathe and includes a model rapid-fire naval 
gun. Tills is the only book pubUshed in this country that treats lathe work from 
the standpoint of the amateur mechanic. 162 illustrations. About 250 pages r^mo. 
Price $2.00 

TURNING AND BORING TAPERS. By Fred H. Colvin. 

There are two ways to turn tapers; the riglit way and one other. This treatise has 
to do with the right way; it tells you how to start the work properly, how to set the 
lathe, what tools to use and how to use them, and forty and one other Uttle things 
that you should know. Fourth edition. Price 85 cents 

LIQUID AIR 

LIQUID AIR AND THE LIQUEFACTION OF GASES. By T. O'Conor Sloane. 

This book gives the history of the theory, discovery, and manufacture of Liquid Air, 
and contains an illustrated description of all the experiments that have excited the 
Avonder of audiences all over the country. It shows how liquid air, like water, is 
carried hundreds of miles and is handled in open buckets. It tells what may be ex- 
pected from it in the near future. 

A book that renders simple one of the most perplexing chemical problems of the 
century. Startling developments illustrated by actual experiments. 
It is not only a work of scientific interest and authority, but is intended for the general 
reader, being written in a popular style — easily understood by every one. Tliird 
edition. Revised and Enlarged. 394 pages. 1920 Edition. Price . . . $3.09 

LOCOMOTIVE ENGINEERING 



AIR-BRAKE CATECHISM. By Robert H. Blackall. 

This book is a standard text book. It covers the Westineihouse Air-Brake Equipment, 
including the No. 5 and the No. 6 E. T. Locomotive Brake Equipment; the K (Quick 
Service) Triple Valve for Freight Service; and the Cross-Compound Pump. The 
operation of all parts of the apparatus is explained in detail, and a practical way of 
finding their peculiarities and defects, with a proper remedy, is given. It contains 
2,000 questions with their answers, which will enable any railroad man to pass any 
examination on the subject of Air Brakes. Endorsed and used by air-brake instruc- 
tors and examiners on nearly every railroad in the United States. 27th Edition. 411 
pages, fully illustrated with colored plates and diagrams. Price $2.50 

26 



CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS 

COMBUSTION OF COAL AND THE PREVENTION OF SMOKE. By Wm. 
M. Bare. 

This book has been prepared with special reference to the generation of heat by the 
combustion of the common fuels found in the United States and deals particularly 
with the conditions necessary to the economic and smokeless combustion of bituminous 
coal in Stationary and Locomotive Steam Boilers. 

Presentation of this important subject is systematic and progressive. The ar- 
rangement of the book is in a series of practical questions to which are appended 
accurate answers, which descril:)e in language free from technicalities the several 
processes involved in the furnace combustion of American fuels; it clearly states the 
essential requisites for perfect comliustion, and points out the best method's of furnace 
construction for obtaining the greatest quantity of heat from any given quality of 
coal. Nearly 350 pages, fully illustrated. Price $1.50 

DIARY OF A ROUND-HOUSE FOREMAN. By T. S. Reilly. 

This is the greatest book of railroad experiences ever published. Containing a fund of 
information and suggestions along the line of handling men, organizing, etc., that one 
cannot afford to miss. 176 pages. Price $1.25 

LINK MOTIONS, VALVES AND VALVE SETTING. By Fred H. Colvin, 
Associate Editor of American Machinist. 

A handy book for the engineer or machinist that clears up the mysteries of valve 
setting. Shows the different valve gears in use. how they work, and why. Piston 
and slide valves of different types are illustrated and explained. A book that every 
railroad man in the motive power department ought to have. Contains chapters on 
Locomotive Link Motion, Valve Movements, Setting Slide Valves, Analysis by 
Diagrams, Modern Practice, Shp of Block, Slice Valves, Piston Valves, Setting Piston 
Valves, .loy-Allen Valve Gear, Walschaert Valve Gear, Gooch Valve Gear, Alfree- 
Hubbell Valve Gear, etc., etc. Fully illustrated. Price 75 cents 

LOCOMOTIVE BOILER CONSTRUCTION. By Frank A. Kleinhans. 

The construction of boilers in general is treated, and, following this, the locomotive 
boiler is taken up in the order in which its various parts go through the shop. Shows 
all types of boilers used: gives details of construction; practical facts, such as life of 
riveting, punches and dias; work done per day, aUowance for bending and flanging 
sheets, and other data. Including the recent Locomoti\"e Boiler Inspection Laws 
and Examination Qu&stions with their answers for Government Inspectors. Contains 
chapters on Laying Out Work; Flanging and Forging; Punching; Shearing; Plate 
Planing; General Tables; Finishing Parts; Bending; Machinery Parts; Riveting; 
Boiler Details; Smoke Box Details; AssembUng and Calking; Boiler Shop 
Machinery, etc., etc. 

There isn't a man who has anything to do with boiler work, either new or repair work, 
who doesn't need this book. The manufacturer, superintendent, foreman, and boiler 
worker — all need it. No matter what the type of boiler, you'll find a mint of informa- 
tion that you wouldn't be without. Over 400 pages, Ave large folding plates. 
Price $8.50 

LOCOMOTIVE BREAKDOWNS AND THEIR REMEDIES. By Geo. L. 
Fowler. Revised by Wm. W. Wood, Air-Brake Instructor. Just issued. 
Revised pocket edition. 

It is out of the question to tiy and tell you about every subject that is covered in this 
pocket edition of Locomotive Breakdowns. Just imagine all the common troubles 
that an engineer mav expect to happen some time, and then add all of the unexpected 
ones, troubles that could occur, but that you have never thouglit about, and you will 
find that they are all treated with the very l^est methods of repair. Walschaert 
Locomotive Valve Gear Troubles, Electric Headhght Troubles, as well as Questions 
and Ahswers on the Air Brake are all Included. 312 pages. Sth Revised Edition. 
FuUy illustrated $1.50 

LOCOMOTIVE CATECHISM. By Robert Grimshaw. 

The revised edition of "Locomotive Catechism," by Robert Grimshaw, is a New Book 
from Cover to Cover. It contains twice as many pages and double the number of 

27 



CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS 

illustrations of previous editions. Includes the greatest amount of practical informa- 
tion ever published on the construction and management of modern locomotives. 
Specially Prepared Chapters on the Walschaert Locomotive Valve Gear, the Air- 
Brake Equipment and the Electric Headhght are given. 

It commends itself at once to every Engineer and Fireman, and to all who are going in 
for examination or promotion. In plain language, with full, complete answers, not only 
all the questions asked by the examining engineer are given, but those which the 
young and less experienced would ask the veteran, and which old hands ask as "stick- 
ers." It is a veritable Encyclopedia of the Locomotive, is entirely free from mathe- 
matics, easily understood and thoroughly tip-to-date. Contains over 4,000 Examina- 
tion Questions with their Answers. 825 pages, 437 illustrations and three folding 
plates. 2Sth Revised Edition. Price $2.50 

APPLICATION OF HIGHLY SUPERHEATED STEAM TO LOCOMOTIVES. 

By Robert Garbe. 

A practical book which cannot be recommended too highly to those motive-power 
men who are anxious to maintain the highest efficiency in their locomotives. Con- 
tains special chapters on Generation of Highly Superheated Steam: Superheated Steam 
and the Two-Cyhnder Simple Engine; Compounding and Superheating; Designs of 
Locomotive Superheaters; Constructive Details of Locomotives Using Highly 
Superheated Steam. Experimental and Working Results. Illustrated with folding 
plates and tables. Cloth. Price $3.00 

PRACTICAL INSTRUCTOR AND REFERENCE BOOK FOR LOCOMOTIVE 
FIREMEN AND ENGINEERS. By Chas. F. Lockhart. 

An entirely new book on the Locomotive. It appeals to every railroad man, as it 
tells him how things are done and the right way to do them. Written by a man who 
has had j^ears of practical experience in locomotive shops and on the road firing and 
running. The information given in this book cannot be found in any other similar 
treatise. Eight hundred and fifty-one questions with their answers are included, 
which wiU prove specially helpful to those preparing for examination. Practical 
information on: The Construction and Operation of Locomotives; Breakdowns and 
their Remedies; Air Brakes and Valve Gears. Rules and Signals are handled in a 
thorough manner. As a book of reference it cannot be excelled. The book is divided 
into six parts, as follows: 1. The Fireman's Duties. 2. General Description of the 
Locomotive. 3. Breakdowns and their Remedies. 4. Air Brakes. 5. Extracts 
from Standard Rules. 6. Questions for Examination. The 851 questions have been 
carefully selected and arranged. These cover the examinations required by the 
difl'ereut raih-oads. 368 pages. 88 illustrations. Price $2.00 

PREVENTION OF RAILROAD ACCIDENTS, OR SAFETY IN RAILROADING. 

By George Bradshaw. 

This book is a heart-to-heart talk with Railroad Employees, dealing with facts, not 
theories, and showing the men in the ranks, from every-day experience, how accidents 
occur and how they may be avoided. The book is illustrated with seventy original 
photographs and drawings showing the safe and unsafe methods of work. No vision- 
ary schemes, jio ideal pictures. .lust plain facts and Practical Suggestions are given. 
Every railroad emijloyee who reads the book is a better and safer man to have in 
railroad service. It gives just the information which wiU be the means of preventing 
many injuries and deaths. All railroad employees should procure a copy; read it, 
and do your part in preventing accidents. 169 pages. Pocket size. Fully illustrated. 
Price 50 cciit.s 

TRAIN RULE EXAMINATIONS MADE EASY. By G. E. Collingwood. 

Tliis is the only practical work on train rales in print. Every detail is covered, and 
puzzling points are explained in simple, comprehensive language, making it a practical 
treatise for the Train Dispatcher, Engineman, Trainman, and all others who have to 
do with the movements of trains. Contains complete and reliable information of the 
Standard Code of Train Rules for single track. Shows Signals in Colors, as used on 
the different roads. Explains fully the practical application of train orders, giving a 
clear and definite understanding of all orders which mav be used. The meaning and 
necessity for certain rules are explained in such a manner that the student may know 
beyond a doubt the rights conferred imder anv orders he mav receive or the action 
required by certain rules. As nearly all roads require trainmeti to pass regular exami- 
nations, a complete set of examination questions, with their answers, are included. 

28 



CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS 



These will enable the student to pass the required examinations with credit to himself 
and the road for which he works. 256 pages. Fully illustrated with Train Signals 
in Colors. Price $1.50 

THE WALSCHAERT AND OTHER MODERN RADIAL VALVE GEARS FOR 
LOCOMOTIVES. By Wm. W. Wood. 

If you would thoroughly understand the Walschaert Valve Gear you should possess a 
copy of this book, as the author takes the plainest form of a steam engine; — a stationary 
engine in the rough, that will only turn its crank in one direction — and from it builds 
up — with the reader's help — a "modern locomotive equipped with the Walschaert 
Valve Gear, complete. The points discussed are clearly illustrated; two large folding 
plates that show the positions of the valves of both inside or outside admission type, as 
well as the links and other parts of the gear when the crank is at nine different points 
in its revolution, are especially valuable in making the movement clear. These employ 
sliding cardboard models which are contained in a pocket in the cover. 

The booli is divided into five general divisions, as follows: 1. Analysis of the gear. 
2. Designing and erecting the gear. .3. Advantages of the gear. 4. Questions and 
answers relating to the Walschaert Valve Gear. 5. Setting valves with the Wal- 
schaert Valve Gear: the three primary types of locomotive valve motion; modern 
radial valve gears other than the Walschaert: the Hobart All-free Valve and Valve 
Gear, with questions and answers on breakdowns; the Baker-Pilliod Valve Gear; the 
Improved Baker-Pilhod Valve Gear, with questions and answers on breakdowns. 
The questions with full answers given will be especially valuable to firemen and engi- 
neers in preparing for an examination for promotion. 245 pages. Fourth Revised 
1920 Edition. Price $S.50 

WESTINGHOUSE E-T AIR-BRAKE INSTRUCTION POCKET BOOK. By 

Wm. W. Wood, Air-Brake Instructor. 

Here is a book for the railroad man, and the man who aims to be one. It is without 
doubt the only complete work published on the Westinghouse E-T Locomotive Brake 
Equipment. Written by an Air-Brake Instructor who knows just what is needed. It 
covers the subject thoroughly. Everything about the New Westinghouse Engine and 
Tender Brake Equipment, including the standard No. 5 and the Perfected No. 6 
style of brake, is treated in detail. Written in plain EngUsh and profusely illustrated 
with Colored Plates, which enable one to trace the flow of pressures throughout the 
entire equipment. The best book ever published on the Air Brake. Equally good for 
the beginner and the advanced engineer. WiU pass any one through any examination. 
It informs and enUghtens you on every point. Indispensable to every engineman and 
trainman. 

Contains e.xamination questions and answers on the E-T equipment. Covering what 
the E-T Brake is. How it should be operated. What to do when defective. Not a 
question can be asked of the engineman up for promotion, on either the No. 5 or the 
No. 6 E-T equipment, that is not asked and answered in the book. If you want to 
thoroughly understand the E-T equipment get a copy of this book. It covers every 
detail. Makes Air-Brake troubles and examinations easy. Second Revised and 
Enlarged Edition, 1920. Price $2.50 

MACHINE-SHOP PRACTICE 



AMERICAN TOOL MAKING AND INTERCHANGEABLE MANUFACTUR- 
ING. By J. V. WOODWORTH. 

A "shoppy" book, containing no theorizing, no problematical or experimental devices, 
there are no badly proportioned and impossible diagrams, no catalogue cuts, but a 
valuable collection of drawings and descriptions of devices, the rich fruits of the author's 
own experience. In its 500-odd pages the one subject only. Tool Making, and what- 
ever relates thereto, is dealt with. The work stands without a rival. It is a complete 
practical treatise on the art of American Tool Making and system of interchangeable 
manufactm-ing as carried on to-day in the United States. In it are described and 
illustrated all of the different types and classes of small tools, fixtures, devices, and 
special appliances which are in general use in all machine-manufacturing and metal- 
working establishments where economy, capacity, and interchangeability in the pro- 
duction of machined metal parts are imperative. The science of jig making is exhaus- 
tively discussed, and particular attention is paid to drill jigs, boring, profiling and milling 

. 29 



CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS 

fixtures and other devices in which the parts to be machined are located and fastened 
within tlie contrivances. AU of the tools, fixtures, and devices illustrated and de- 
scribed have been or are used for the actual production of work, such as parts of drill 
presses, lathes, patented machinery, typewriters, electrical apparatus, mechanical ap- 
pliances, brass goods, composition parts, mould products, sheet metal articles, drop- 
forgings, jewelry, watches, medals, coins, etc. 531 pages. Price .... $4.50 

MACHINE-SHOP ARITHMETIC. By Colvin-Cheney. 

This is an arithmetic of the things you have to do with daily. It tells you plainly 
about: how to find areas in figures; how to find surface or volume of balls or spheres; 
handy ways for calculating; about compound gearing; cutting screw threads on any 
lathe; drilling for taps; speeds of driUs; taps, emery wheels, grindstones, milling 
cutters, etc.; all about the Metric system with conversion tables; properties of metals; 
strength of bolts and nuts; decimal equivalent of an inch. All sorts of machine-shop 
figuring and 1,001 other things, any one of which ought to be worth more than 
the price of this book to you, and it saves you the trouble of bothering the boss. 6th 
edition. 131 pages. Price 75 cents 

MODERN MACHINE-SHOP CONSTRUCTION, EQUIPMENT AND MAN- 
AGEMENT. By Oscar E. Perrigo. 

The only work published that describes the Modern Shop or Manufacturing Plant 
from the time the grass is growing on the site intended for it until the finished product 
is shipped. Just the book needed by those contemplating the erection of modern shop 
buildings, the rebuilding and reorganization of old ones, or the introduction of Modern 
Shop Methods, time and cost systems. It is a book written and illustrated by a prac- 
tical shop man for practical shop men who are too busy to read theories and want facts. 
It is the most complete all-round book of its kind ever pubUshed. 400 large quarto 
pages. 22.5 original and specially-made illustrations. 2d Revised and Enlarged 
Edition. Price $5.00 

"SHOP KINKS." By Robert Grimshaw. 

A book of 400 pages and 222 illustrations, being entirely different from any other 
book on machine-shop practice. Departing from conventional style, the author 
avoids universal or common shop usage and limits his work to showing special ways 
of doing things better, more cheaply and more rapidly than usual. As a result the 
advanced methods of representative establishments of the world are placed at the 
disposal of the reader. This book shows the proprietor where large savings are possible, 
and how products may be improved. To the employee it holds out suggestions that, 
properly applied, will hasten his advancement. No shop can afford to be without it. 
It bristles with valuable wrinkles and helpful suggestions. It will benefit all, from 
apprentice to proprietor. Every machinist, at any age, should study its pages. Fifth 
edition. Price $3.00 

THREADS AND THREAD CUTTING. By Colvin and Stabel. 

This clears tip manv of the mysteries of thread-cutting, such as double and triple 
threads, internal threads, catching threads, use of hobs, etc. Contains a lot of useful 
tiints and several tables. Third edition. Price 35 cents 

EVERYDAY ENGINEERING— THE BEST MECHANICAL MAGAZINE ON 
THE MARKET. ONLY TWO DOLLARS A YEAR FOR TWELVE 
NUMBERS. SUBSCRIBE TO-DAY. 

Every practical man needs a magazine wliich will tell him how to make and do things. 
A monthly magazine devoted to practical mechanics for every-day men. Its aim is 
to popularize engineering as a science, teacliing the elements of appUed mechanics 
and electricity in a straightforward and understandable manner. The magazine 
maintains its own experimental laboratory, where the devices described m articles 
submitted to the Editor are first tried out and tested before they are pubhshed. This 
important innovation places the standard of the pubhshed material very high, and 
it insures accuracy and dependability. 

The magazine is the only one in this country that speciaUzes in practical model build- 
ing. Articles in past issues have given comprehensive designs for many model boats, 
including submarines and chasers, model steam and gasohne engines, electric motors 
and generators, etc., etc. This feature is a permanent one in the magazine. 

30 



CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS 

Another popular department is that devoted to automobiles and airplanes. Care, 

maintenance, and operation receive full and authoritative treatment. Every article 

is written from the practical, every-day man standpoint, rather than from that of the 

professional. 

The magazine entertains while it instructs. It is a journal of practical, dependable 

information, ^iven in a style that it may be readily assimilated and applied by the 

man with Uttle or no technical training. The aim is to place before the man who 

leans toward practical mechanics a series of concise, crisp, readable talks on what 

is going on and how it is done. These articles are profusely illustrated with clear, 

snappy photographs, specially posed to illustrate the subject in the magazine's owl 

studio by its own staff of technically-trained illustrators and editors. 

The subscription price of the magazine is $2.00 per year of twelve numbers. 

Sample copy sent on receipt of twenty cents. 

Enter your subscription to this practical magazine with us. 

THE WHOLE FIELD OF MECHANICAL MOVEMENTS 
COVERED BY MR. HISCOX'S TWO BOOKS 



We publish two books by Gardner D. Iliscox that will keep you from "inventing" things 
that have been done before, and suggest ways of doing things that you have not thought of 
before. Many a man spends time and money, pondering over some mechanical problem, 
only to learn, after he has solved the problem, that the same thing has been accomplished 
and put in practice by others long before. Time and money spent in an effort to accom- 
plish what has already been accomplished are time and money LOST. The whole field 
of mechanics, every known mechanical movement, and practically every device is covered 
by these two books. If the thing you want has been invented, it is illustrated in them. If 
it hasn't been invented, then you'll find in them the nearest things to what you want, some 
m.ovements or devices that will apply in your case, perhaps; or which will give you a key 
from which to work. No book or set of books ever published is of more real value to the 
Inventor, Draftsman, or practical Mechanic than the two volumes described below. 

MECHANICAL MOVEMENTS, POWERS, AND DEVICES. By Gardner D. 
Hiscox. 

This is a collection of 1 ,890 engravings of different mechanical motions and appUances. 
accompanied by appropriate text,, making it a book of great value to the inventor, 
the draftsman, and to all readers 'with mechanical tastes. The book is divided into 
eighteen sections or chapters, in which the subject-matter is classified under the follow- 
ing heads: Mechanical Powers; Transmission of Power; Measurement of Power; 
Steam Power; Air Power AppUances; Electric Power and Construction; Navigation 
and Roads; Gearing; Motion and Devices; Controlling Motion; Horological; 
Mining; Mill and Factory AppUances; Construction and Devices; Drafting Devices; 
MisceUaneous Devices, etc. 15th edition enlarged. 400 octavo pages. Price . $4.00 

MECHANICAL APPLIANCES, MECHANICAL MOVEMENTS AND NOVEL 
TIES OF CONSTRUCTION. By Gardner D. Hiscox. 

This is a supplementary volume to the one upon mechanical movements. UnUke the 
first volume, which is more elementary in character, this volume contains illustrations 
and descriptions of many combinations of motions and of mechanical devices and 
appUances found in different lines of machinery, each device being shown by a line 
drawing with a description showing its working parts and the method of operation. 
From the multitude of devices described and illustrated might be mentioned, in 
passing, such items as conveyors and elevators, Prony brakes, thermometers, various 
types of boilers, solar engines, oil-fuel burners, condensers, evaporators, Corliss and 
other valve gears, governors, gas engines, water motors of various descriptions, air- 
ships, motors and dynamos, automobile and motor bicycles, railway lock signals, 
car couplers, Unk and gear motions, baU bearings, breech block mechanism for heavy 
guns, and a large accumulation of others of equal importance. 1,000 speciaUy made 
engravings. 396 octavo pages. 4th Edition enlarged. Price !$4.00 



3r 



CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS 

MACHINE-SHOP TOOLS AND SHOP PRACTICE. By W. H. Vandervoort. 

A work of 555 pages and 673 illustrations, describing in every detail the construction, 
operation, and manipulation of both hand and machine tools. Includes chapters 
on filing, fitting, and scraping surfaces; on drills, reamers, taps, and dies: the lathe 
and its tools; planers, shapers, and their tools; milUng machines and cutters; gear 
cutters and gear cutting; drilling machines and drill work; grinding machines and 
their work; hardening and tempering; gearing, belting, and transmission machinery; 
useful data and tables. 6th edition. Price $4.50 

COMPLETE PRACTICAL MACHINIST. By Joshua Rose. 

The new, twentieth revised and enlarged edition is now ready. This is one of the 
best-known Ijooks on machine-shop work, and written for the practical workman 
ui the language of the workshop. It gives full, practical instructions on the use of 
all kinds of metal-working tools, both hand and machine, and tells how the work 
should be properly done. It covers lathe work, vise work, drills and drilling, taps 
and dies, hardening and tempering, the making and use of tools, tool grinding, mark- 
ing out work, machine tools, etc. No machinist's hbrary is complete without this 
volume. 547 pages, 432 illustrations. 1920. Price $3.00 

HENLEY'S ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL ENGINEERING AND ALLIED 
TRADES. Edited by Joseph G. Horner, A.M.I.Mech.E. 

This book covers the entire practice of Civil and Mechanical Engineering. The 
best known experts in all branches of engineering have contributed to these volumes. 
The Cyclopedia is admirably well adapted to the needs of the beginner and the self- 
taught practical man, as well as the mechanical engineer, designer, draftsman, shop 
superintendent, foreman and machinist. 

It is a modern treatise in five volumes. Handsomely bound in half morocco, each 
volume containing nearly 500 pages, with thousands of illustrations, including dia- 
grammatic and sectional drawings with full explanatory details. For the complete 
set of five volumes. Price $30.00 

MODEL MAKING Including Workshop Practice, Design and Construction of 
Models. Edited by Raymond F. Yates. Editor of "Everyday Engineering 
Magazine." 

This book does not describe the construction of toys. Its'pages are devoted to mode, 
engineering and the mechanical sciences associated with it. It contains descriptions 
with illustrations of the complete models made by some of the leading model engineers 
in this coimtry. It is the only book published on this important subject. 
The first part of the book is devoted to the mechanical sciences and processes related 
to model engineering and mechanics in general. To the inexperienced workman, who 
■wishes to make models but is untrained in the fundamental mechanics, this book will 
afford all the information necessary. For the experienced mechanic, tliere are many 
hints and short cuts that will be found helpful. Few mechanics, no matter how well 
trained, know how to make their own patterns. Yet a complete treatise on tliis im- 
portant craft is given. The same holds true in regard to the inteUigent use of abrasives 
in the home shop. This, too, is comjjletely covered in a way that will not only help the 
beginner but teacli the trained man a few things that he may not have understood 
before. In short, the fore part of the book will prepare men to more thoroughly under- 
stand the processes connected with model making no matter what their standing. 
This book will help you to become a better mechanic. Itis full of suggestions for those 
•who like to make tilings, amateur and professional alike. It has been prepared es- 
pecially for men with mechanical hobbies. Some may be engineers, machinists, jew- 
elers, pattern makers, office clerks or bank presidents. Men from various walks of 
life have a peculiar interest in model engineering. Model IMakixg will be a help and 
an inspiration to such men. It tells them "how-to-do" and "how-to-make" things 
in simple, understandable terms. Not only this, it is full of good, clear working 
drawings and photographs of the models and apparatus described. Each model has 
been constructed and actually works if it is made according to directions. 375 pages. 
300 illustrations. Price $8.00 

32 



CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS 

SHOP PRACTICE FOR HOME MECHANICS. By Raymond Francis Yates. 

A thoroughly practical and helpful treatment prepared especially for those who have 
had little or no experience in shop work. The introduction is given over to an ele- 
mentary explanation of the fundamentals of mechanical science. Tliis is followed 
by several chapters on the use of small tools and mechanical measviring instrmnents. 
Elementary and more advanced lathe work is treated in detail and directions given 
for the construction of a number of useful shop appUances. Drilling and reaming, 
heat treatment of tool steel, special lathe operations, pattern making, grinding, and 
grinding operations, home foundry work, etc., make up tlie rest of the volume. The 
book omits notliing that will he of use to those who use tools or to those who wish 
to learn the use of tools. The great number of clear engravings (over .300) add 
tremendously to the text matter and to the value of the volume as a visual instructor. 
Octavo, about 350 pages. 309 engravings. Price $3.00 



MARINE ENGINEERING 

THE NAVAL ARCHITECT'S AND SHIPBUILDER'S POCKETBOOK. Of 

Formulie, Rules, and Tables and Marine Engineer's and Surveyor's Handy 
Book of Reference. By Clement Mackrow and Lloyd Woollard. 

The eleventh revised and enlarged edition of this most comprehensive work has just 
been issued. It is absolutely indispensable to all engaged in the Sliipbuilding Industry, 
as it condenses into a compact form all data and formulaejthat are ordinarily required. 
The book is completely up to date, including among other subjects a section on 
Aeronautics. 750 pages, limp leather binding. Price $6.00 

MARINE ENGINES AND BOILERS— THEIR DESIGN AND CONSTRUC- 
TION. THE STANDARD BOOK. By Dr. G. Bauer, Leslie S. Robertson 
and S. Bryan Donkin. 

In the words of Dr. Bauer, the present work owes its origin to an oft felt want of a 
condensed treatise embodying the theoretical and practical rules used in designing 
marine engines and boilers. The need of such a work has been felt by most en- 
gineers engaged in the construction and working of marine engines, not only by the 
younger men, but also by those of greater experience. The fact that tlie original 
German work was written by the chief engineer of tlie famous Vulcan Works, Stettin, 
is in itself a guarantee that this book is in all respects thoroughly up-to-date, and 
that it embodies all the information wliich is necessary for the design and construction 
of the Mghest types of marine engines and boilers. It may be said that the m.otive 
power wliich Dr. Bauer has placed in the fast German liners that have been turned 
out of late years from the Stettin Works represent the very best practice in marine 
engineering of the present day. The work is clearly written, thoroughly systematic, 
theoretically sound; while the character of the plans, drawings, tables, and statistics 
is without reproach. The illustrations are careful reproductions from actual working 
drawings, with some well-executed photographic views of completed engines and 
boilers. 744 pages. 550 illustrations, and numei'ous tables. Cloth. Price. $10.00 

MODERN SUBMARINE CHART. 

A cross-section view, showing clearly and distinctly all the interior of a Submarine 
of the latest type. You get more information from this chart about the construction 
and operation of a submarine than in any other way. No details omitted — every- 
thing is accurate and to scale. It is absolutely correct in every detail, having been 
approved by naval engineers. All the machinery and devices fitted in a modern 
Submarine Boat are shown, and to make the engraving more readily understood 
all the features are shown in operative form, with Officers and Men in the act of per- 
forming the duties assigned to them in service conditions. THIS CHART IS REALLY 
AN ENCYCLOPEDIA OP A SUBMARINE. It is educational and worth many 
times its cost. Mailed in a tube for 25 cents 



33 



CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS 



MANUAL TRAINING 

ECONOMICS OF MANUAL TRAINING. By Louis Rouillion. 

The only book published that gives just the information needed by all interested in 
Manual Training, regarding Buildings, Equipment, and Supplies. Shows exactly 
what is needed for all grades of the work from the Kindergarten to the High and 
Normal School. Gives itemized lists of everything used in Manual Training Work 
and tells just what it ought to cost. Also shows where to buy suppUes, etc. Contains 
174 pages, and is fully illustrated. 2d edition. Price $2.00 

MINING 

PROSPECTOR'S FIELD-BOOK AND GUIDE. By H. S. Osborn. 

Ninth edition, revised and enlarged l>y M. W. von Bernewitz. The last edition of 
tliis volume was pubhslied in 1910. It and the previous seven editions were suitable 
for those times. The new ninth (1920) edition will be found suitable for the present 
time. While the old-time prospector will always be an important factor, the knowl- 
edge of and search for the common and rarer minerals is bringing out men who are 
trained to some degree. In the field they need a handy and suggestive pocket-book 
containmg hmts on prospecting — where to search and how to test — couched in simple 
terms. The chapter on preliminary instructions covers the fundamentals of a study 
of the earth's crust. Then follow discussions on practical mineralogy, crystallog- 
raphy, the value of the blowpipe in prospecting, surveying, and chemical tests in 
the field. Separate chapters are given to the precioas and base metals, also to the 
non-metallic minerals. The chapter on the non-ferrous or alloy group of minerals 
is entirely new, wliile the section on oil has been expanded. Surflcial indications for 
copper receive full attention. The chapter on gems has been rewritten and matters 
concerning gemstones used for industrial piu-poses, such as abrasives, included. A gen- 
eral chapter covers many useful minerals and salts. An important guide and sugges- 
tive aid throughout the new book are the many brief descriptions of ore deposits 
of all muierals occm-rmg in scattered parts of the world. No other prospector's book 
contains ttiis class of information. In the appendix will be found numbers of useful 
tables, and a complete glossary of mining and mineralogical terms. The ninth edition 
of Osborn's Prospector's Field Book and Guide will be found up to date, worth 
while, and full value for the money asked. Flexible fabrikoid. 375 pages. 57 
illustrations. Price $3.00 

PATTERN MAKING 

PRACTICAL PATTERN MAKING. By F. W. Barrows. 

This book, now in its second edition, is a comprehensive and entirely practical treatise 
on the subject of pattern making, illustrating pattern work in both wood and metal, 
and with definite instructions on the use of plaster of Paris in the trade. It gives 
specific and detailed descriptions of the materials used by pattern makers and de- 
scribes the tools, both those for the bench and the more interesting machine tools; 
having complete chapters on the Lathe, the Circular Saw, and the Band Saw. It gives 
many examples of pattern work, each one fully illustrated and explained with much 
detail. These examples, in their great variety, offer much that will be found of 
interest to all pattern makers, and especially to the yoimger ones, who are seeking 
information on the more advanced branches of their trade. 

In this second edition of the work will be found much that is new, even to those who 
have long practised this exacting trade. In the description of patterns as adapted 
to the Moulding Machine many difficulties which have long prevented the rapid and 
economical production of castings are overcome; and this great, new branch of the 
trade is given much space. Stripping plate and stool plate work and the less expen- 
sive vibrator, or rapping plate work, are all explained in detail. 

Plain, everyday rules for lessening the cost of patterns, with a complete system of 
cost keeping, a detailed method of marking, applicable to all branches of the trade, 



34 



CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS 

with complete information showing what the pattern is, its specific title, its cost, 
date of production, material of which it is made, the number of pieces and core- 
boxes, and its location in the pattern safe, aU condensed into a most complete card 
record, with cross index. 

The book closes with an original and practical method for the inventory and valua- 
tion of patterns. Containing nearly 350 pages and 170 illustrations. Price . $2.50 

MOTOR BOATS 

MOTOR BOATS AND BOAT MOTORS. By Victor W. Page and A. C. Leitch. 

All who are interested in motor boats, either as owners, builders or repairmen will 
find this latest work a most comprehensive treatise on the design, construction, opera- 
tion and repair of motor boats and their power plants. It is really two complete 
books in one cover as it consists of two parts, each complete in itself. Part One deals 
with The Hull and Its Fittings, Part Two considers The Power Plant and Its 
Ac:xiLLARiES. A valuable feature of tliis book is the complete set of dimensioned 
working drawings detailing the construction of five different types of boats ranging 
from a 16-foot shallow draft, tunnel stem general utility craft to a 25-foot cabin 
cruiser. These plans are by A. C. Leitch, a practical boat builder and expert naval 
architect and are complete in every particular. Full instructions are given for the 
selection of a power plant and its installation in the hull. Valuable advice is included 
on boat and engine operation and latest designs of motors are described and illustrated. 
The instructions for overhauling boat and engine are worth many times the small 
cost of the book. It is a comprehensive work of reference for all interested in motor 
boating in any of its phases. Octavo. Cloth. 350 illustrations. 500 pages. 
Price $4.00 

PERFUMERY 

PERFUMES AND COSMETICS, THEIR PREPARATION AND MANUFAC- 
TURE. By G. W. AsKiNSON, Perfumer. 

A comprehensive treatise, in which there has been nothing omitted that could be of 
value to the perfumer or manufacturer of toilet preparations. Complete directions 
for making handkerchief perfumes, smeUing-salts, sachets, fumigating pastilles; 
preparations for the care of the skin, the mouth, the hair, cosmetics, hair dyes and 
other toilet articles are given, also a detailed description of aromatic substances ; their 
nature, tests of purity, and wholesale manufacture, including a chapter on synthetic 
products, with formulas for their use. A book of general, as well as professional in- 
terest, meeting the wants not only of the druggist and perfume manufacturer, but 
also of the general pubhc. Among the contents are: 1. The History of Perfumery. 
2. About Aromatic Substances in General. 3. Odors from the Vegetable Kingdom. 
4. The Aromatic Vegetable Substances Employed in Perfumery. 5. The Animal Sub- 
stances Used in Perfumery. 6. The Chemical roducts Used in Perfumery. 7. The Ex- 
traction of Odors. 8. The Special Characteristics of Aromatic Substances. 9. The Adul- 
teration of Esseatial Oils and Their Recognition. 10. Synthetic Products. 11. Table of 
Physical Properties of Aromatic Chemicals. 12. T he Essences of Extracts Employed 
in Perfumery. 13. Directions for Making the Most Important Essences and Extracts. 
14. The Division of Perfu-nery- 1^. The Mantifacture of Handkerchief Perfumes. 
16. Formulas for Handkerchief Perfumes. 17. Ammoniacal and Acid Perfumes. 
18. Dry Perfumes. 19.- Formulas for Drv Perfumes. 20. The Perfumes Used for 
Fumigation. 21. Antiseptic and Therapeutic Value of Perfumes. 22. Classification of 
Odors. 23. Some Special Perfumery Products. 24. Hygiene and Cosmetic Perfumery. 
25. Preparations for the Care of the Skin. 26. Manufacture of Casein. 27. Formulas 
for Emulsions. 28. Formulas for Cream. 29. Formulas for Meals, Pastes and Vege- 
table Milk. 30. Preparations Used for the Hair. 31. Formulas for Hair Tonics and 
Restorers. 32. Pomades and Hair Oils. 33. Formulas for the Manufacture of 
Pomades and Hair Oils. 34. Hair Dyes and Depilatories. 35. Wax Pomades, Bando- 
lines and BriUiantines. 36. Skin Cosmetics and Face Lotions. 37. Preparations for 
the Nails. 38. Water Softeners and Bath Salts. 39. Preparations for the Care of the 
Mouth. 40. The Colors Used in Perfumery. 41. The Utensils Used in the Toilet 



35 



CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS 

Fourth edition much enlarged and brought up-to-date. Nearly 400 pages, illus- 
trated. Price $6.00 

WHAT IS SAID OF THIS BOOK: 
" The most satisfactory work on the subject of Perfumery that we have ever seen. 
" We feel safe in saying that here is a book on Perfumery that will not disappoint you. 
for it has practical and excellent formulaj that are within your abihty to prepare 
readily. 

•■ We recommend the volume as worthy of confidence, and say that no purchaser will be 
disappointed in securing from its pages good value for its cost, and a large dividend 
on the same, even if he should use but one per cent of its working formulie. There 
is money in it for every user of its information." — Pharmaceutical Record. 

HENLEY'S TWENTIETH CENTURY BOOK OF RECIPES, FORMULAS 
AND PROCESSES. Edited by G. D. Hiscox. 

The most valuable techno-chemical receipt book pubhshed. Contains over 10,000 
practical receipts, many of which will prove of special value to the 
perfumer. Cloth Bound. Price $4.00 

PLUMBING 

MECHANICAL DRAWING FOR PLUMBERS. By R. M. Starbuck. 

A concise, comprehensive and practical treatise on the subject of mechanical drawing 
in its various modern apphcations to the work of all who are in any way connected 
with the plumbing trade. Nothing wiU so help the plumber in estimating and in 
explaining work to customers and workmen as a knowledge of drawing, and to the 
workman it is of inestimable value if he is to rise above his position to positions of 
greater responsibility. Among the chapters contained are: 1. Value to plumber of 
knowledge of drawing ; tools required and their use ; common views needed in mechan- 
ical drawing. 2. Perspective versus mechanical drawing in showing plumbing con- 
struction. 3. Correct and incorrect methods in plumbing drawing; plan and elevation 
explained. 4. Floor and cellar plans and elevation; scale drawings; use of triangles. 
5. Use of triangles; drawing of fittings, traps, etc. 6. Drawing plumbing elevations 
and fittings. 7. Instructions in di'awing plumbing elevations. 8. The drawing of 
plumbing fixtures; seals drawings. 9. Drawings of fixtures and fittings. 10. Inking 
of drawings. 11. Shading of drawings. 12. Shading of drawings. 13. Sectional 
drawings; drawing of threads. 14. Plumbing elevations from architect's plan. 15. Ele- 
vations of separate parts of the plumbing system. 16. Elevations from the architect's 
plans. 17. Drawings of detail plumbing connections. 18. Architect's plans and plumb- 
ing elevations of residence. 19. Plumbing elevations of residence (continued) : plumb- 
ing plans for cottage. 20. Plumbing elevations: roof connections. 21. Plans and 
plumbing elevations for six-flat building. 22. Drawing of various parts of the plumb- 
ing system; use of scales. 23. Use of architect's scales. 24. Special features in the 
illustrations of country plumbing. 25. Drawing of wrought-iron piping, valves, radia- 
tors, coils, etc. 26. Drawing of piping to illustrate heating systems. 150 illustrations. 
Price $2.00 

MODERN PLUMBING ILLUSTRATED. By R. M. Starbuck. 

This book represents the highest standard of plumbing work. It has been adopted 
and used as a reference book by the United States Government, in its sanitary work in 
Cuba, Porto Rico, and the Philippines, and by the principal Boards of Health of the 
United States and Canada. 

It gives connections, sizes and working data for all fixtures and groups of fixtures. It 
is helpful to the master plumber in demonstrating to his customers and in figiu-ing 
work. It gives the mechanic and student quick and easy access to the best modern 
plumbing practice. Suggestions for estimating plumbing construction are contained 
in its pages. This book represents, in a word, the latest and best up-to-date practice 
and should be in the hands of every architect, sanitary engineer and plumber who 
wishes to keep himself up to the minute on this important feature of construction. 
Contains following chapters, each illustrated with a full-page plate: Kitchen sink, 
laundry tubs, vegetable wash sink: lavatories, pantry sinks, contents of marble slabs; 
bath tub, foot and sitz bath, shower bath; water closets, venting of water closets; low- 



36 



CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS 

down water closets, water closets operated by flush valves, water closet range ; slop sink, 
urinals, the bidet; hotel and restaurant sink, grease trap; refrigerators, safe wastes, laun- 
dry waste, Unes of refrigerators, bar sinks, soda fountain sinks; horse stall, frostr-proof 
water closets ; connections for S traps, venting ; connections for drum traps ; soil pipe 
connections; supporting of soil pipe; main trap and fresh air inlet; floor drains and 
ceUar drains, subsoil drainage; water closets and floor connections; local venting; 
connections for bath rooms; connections for bath rooms, conttaued; connections for 
bath rooms, continued; connections for bath rooms, continued; examples of poor 
practice ; roughing work ready for test ; testing of plumbing system ; method of con- 
tinuous venting; continuous venting for two-floor work; continuous venting for two 
lines of fixtures on three or more floors; continuous venting of water closets; plumb- 
ing for cottage house; construction for ceUar piping; plumbing for residence, use of 
special fittings; plumbing for two-flat house; plumbing for apartment building, plumb- 
ing for double apartment building; plumbing for office building; plumbing for public 
toilet rooms; plumbing for public toilet rooms, continued; plumbing for bath estab- 
lishment; plumbing for engine house, factory plumbing; automatic flushing for 
schools, factories, etc.; use of flushing valves; urinals for public toilet rooms; the 
Durham system, the destruction of pipes by electrolysis; construction of work without 
use of lead; automatic sewage lift; automatic sump tank; country plumbing; construc- 
tion of cesspools ; septic tank and automatic sewage siphon ; country plumbing ; water 
supply for country house; thawing of water mains and service by electricity; double 
boilers; hot water supply of large buildings; automatic control of hot water tank; sug- 
gestion for estimating plumbing construction. 407 octavo pages, fully illustrated by 58 
full-page engravings. Third, revised and enlarged edition just issued. Price . $5.00 

STANDARD PRACTICAL PLUMBING. By R. M. Starbuck. 

A complete practical treatise of 450 pages covering the subject of Modern Plumbing 
in all its branches, a large amount of space being devoted to a very complete and 
practical treatment of the subject of Hot Water Supply and Circulation and Range 
Boiler Work. Its thirty chapters include about every phase of the subject one can 
think of, making it an indispensable work to the master plumber, the journeyman 
plumber, and the apprentice plumber, containing chapters on: the plumber's tools; 
wiping solder; composition and use; joint wiping; lead work; traps; siphonage of 
traps; venting; continuous venting; house sewer and sewer connections; house drain; 
soil piping, roughing; main trap and fresh air inlet; floor, yard, cellar drains, rain 
leaders, etc. ; fixture wastes ; water closets ; ventilation ; improved plumbing connec- 
tions; residence plumbing; plumbing for hotels, schools, factories, stables, etc.; 
modern country plumbing; filtration of sewage and water supply; hot and cold 
supply; range boilers; circulation; circulating pipes; range boiler problems; hot 
water for large buildings; water lift and its use; multiple connections for hot water 
boilers; heating of radiation by supply system; theory for the plumber; drawing for 
the plumber. Fully illustrated by 347 engravings. Price $3.60 

RECIPE BOOK 

HENLEY'S TWENTIETH CENTURY BOOK OF RECIPES, FORMULAS AND 
PROCESSES. Edited by Gardner D. Hiscox. 

The most valuable Techno-chemical Formula Book published, including over 10,000 
selected scientific, chemical, technological, and practical recipes and processes. 
This is the most complete Book of Formulas ever pubUshed, giving thousands of 
recipes for the manufacture of valuable articles for everyday use. Hints, Helps, 
Practical Ideas, and Secret Processes are revealed within its pages. It covers every 
branch of the useful arts and tells thousands of ways of making money, and is just the 
book everyone should have at his command. 

Modem in its treatment of every subject that properly falls within its scope, the book 
may truthfuUy be said to present the very latest formulas to be found in the arts and 
industries, and to retain those processes which long- experience has proven worthy of a 
permanent record. To present here even a limited number of the subjects which find 
a place in this valuable work would be difficult. Suffice to say that in its pages wiU 
be found matter of intense interest and immeasm-ably practical value to the scientific 
amateur and to him who wishes to obtain a knowledge of the many processes used in 
the arts, trades and manufacture, a knowledge which will render" his pursuits more 
instructive and remunerative. Serving as a reference book to the small and large 
manufacturer and supplying intelligent seekers with the information necessary to 

37 



CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS 

conduct a process, the work will be found of inestimable worth to the Metallurgist, the 
Photographer, the Perfumer, the Painter, the Manufocturer of Glues, Pastes, Cements, 
and Mucilages, the Compounder of Alloys, the Cook, the Physician, the Druggist, the 
Electrician, the Brewer, the Engineer, the Foundryman, the Machinist, the Potter, the 
Tanner, the Confectioner, the Chiropodist, the Manicure, the Manufacturer of Chem- 
ical Novelties and Toilet Preparations, the Dyer, the Electroplater, the Enameler, the 
Engraver, the Provisioner, the Glass Worker, the Goldbeater, the Watchmaker, the 
Jeweler, the Hat Maker, the Ink Manufacturer, the Optician, the Farmer, the Dairy- 
man, the Paper Maker, the Wood and Metal Worker, the Chandler and Soap Maker, 
the Veterinary Surgeon, and the Technologist in general. 

A mine of information, and up-to-date in every respect. A book which will prove of 
value to EVERYONE, as it covers every branch of the Useful Arts. Every home 
needs this book; every office, every factory, every store, every pubUc and private en- 
terprise — EVERYWHERE — should have a copy. 800 pages. Cloth Bound. 
Price $4.00 

WHAT IS SAID OF THIS BOOK: 

"Your Twentieth Century Book of Recipes, Formulas, and Processes duly received. 

I am glad to have a copy of it, and if I could not replace it, money couldn't buy it. It 

is the best thing of the sort I ever saw." (Signed) M. E. Trux, Sparta, Wis. 

" There are few persons who would not be able to And in the book some single formula 

that would repay several times the cost of the book." — -Merchants' Record and Show 

Window. 

"I purchased your book ' Henley's Twentieth Century Book of Recipes, Formulas and 

Processes' about a year ago and it is worth its weight in gold." — Wm. H. Murray, 

Bennington, Vt. 

■THE BOOK WORTH THREE HUNDRED DOLLARS" 

"On close examination of your 'Twentieth Century Receipt Book,' I find it to be a 
very valuable and useful book with the very best of practical information obtainable. 
The price of the book, $3.00, is very small in comparison to the benefits which one can 
obtain from it. I consider the book worth fully three hundred dollars to anyone." 
— Dr. a. C. Spetts, New York. 

"ONE OF THE WORLD'S MOST USEFUL BOOKS" 
" Some time ago, I got one of your ' Twentieth Century Books of Formulas' and have 
made my living from it ever since. I am alone since my husband's death with two 
small children to care for and am trying so hard to support them. I have customers 
who take from me Toilet Articles I put up, following directions given in the book, 
and I have found every one of them to be fine." — Mrs. J. H. McMaken, West Toledo, 
Ohio. 

RUBBER 

RUBBER HAND STAMPS AND THE MANIPULATION OF INDIA RUBBER. 
By T. O'CoNOR Sloane. 

This book gives full details on all points, treating In a concise and simple manner the 
■ elements of nearly everything it is necessary to understand for a commencement in 
any branch of the India Rubber Manufacture. The making of all kinds of Rubber 
Hand Stamps, Small Articles of India Rubber, U. S. Government Composition, Dating 
Hand Stamps, the Manipulation of Sheet Rubber, Toy Balloons, India Rubber Solu- 
tions, Cements, Blackings, Renovating Varnish, and Treatment for India Rubber 
Shoes, etc.; the Hektograph Stamp Inks, and Miscellaneous Notes, with a Short 
Account of the Discovery, Collection and Manufacture of India Rubber, are set forth 
in a manner designed to be readily understood, the explanations being plain and simple. 
Including a chapter on Rubber Tire Making and Vulcanizing; also a chapter on the 
uses of rubber in Surgery and Dentistry. Third revised and enlarged edition. 17.5 
pages. Illustrated $1.25 

HENLEY'S TWENTIETH CENTURY BOOK OF RECIPES, FORMULAS 
AND PROCESSES. Edited by Gardner D. Hiscox. 

Contains upward of 10,000 practical receipts, including among them formulas on 
artificial rubber. Cloth Bound. Price $4.00 



38 



CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS 



SAWS 

SAW FILING' AND MANAGEMENT OF SAWS. By Robert Grimshaw. 
A practical hand-book on filing, gumming, swaging, hammering, and the brazing of 
band saws, the speed, work, and power to rmi circular saws, etc. A handy book for 
those who have charge of saws, or for those mechanics who do their own filing." as it deals 
with the proper shape and pitches of saw teeth of all kinds and gives many useful hints 
and rules for gumming, setting, and fiUng, and is a practical aid to those who use saws 
for any purpose. Complete tables of proper shape, pitch, and saw teeth as well as 
sizes and number of teeth of various saws are included. Fourth edition, revised and 
enlarged. Illustrated. Price $1.50 

STEAM ENGINEERING 

AMERICAN STATIONARY ENGINEERING. By W. E. Crane. 

This book begins at the boiler room and takes in the whole power plant. A plain 
talk on every-day work about engines, boilers, and their accessories. It is not intended 
to be scientific or mathematical. AU formulas are in simple form so that any one 
understanding plain arithmetic can readily imderstand any of them. The author 
has made this the most practical book in print ; has given the results of his years of 
experience, and has included about all that has to do with an engine room or a power 
plant. You are not left to guess at a single point. You are shown clearly what to 
expect under the various conditions : how to secure the best results ; ways of prevent- 
ing "shut downs" and repairs; in short, all that goes to make up the requirements 
of a good engineer, capable of taking charge of a plant. It's plain enough for practical 
men and yet of value to those high in the profession. 

A partial Ust of contents is: The boiler room, cleaning boilers, firing, feeding; pumps, 
inspection and repair; chimneys, sizes and cost; piping; mason work; foundations; 
testing cement; pile driving; engines, slow and high speed; valves; valve setting; 
Corliss engines, setting valves, single and double eccentric; air pumps and condensers; 
different types of condensers; water needed; lining up; pounds; pins not square in 
crosshead or crank; engineers' tools; pistons and piston rings; bearing metal; hard- 
ened copper; drip pipes from cyUnder jackets; belts, how made, care of; oils; greases: 
testing lubricants; rules and tables, including steam tables: areas of segments; 
squares and square roots; cubes and cube root; areas and circumferences of circles. 
Notes on: Brick work; explosions; pumps; pump valves; heaters, economizers; 
safety valves; lap, lead, and clearance. Has a complete examination for a license, 
etc., etc. Second edition. 285 pages. Illustrated. Price $2.50 

ENGINE RUNNER'S CATECHISM. By Robert Grimshaw. 

A practical treatise for the stationary engineer, telling how to erect, adjust, and run 
the principal steam engines in use in the United States. Describing the principal 
features of various special and well-known makes of engines: Temper Cut-off, Shipping 
and Receiving Foundations, Erecting and Starting, Valve Setting, Care and Use, 
Emergencies, Erecting and Adjusting Special Engines. 

The questions asked throughout the catechism are plain and to the point, and the 
answers are given in such simple language as to be readily understood by anyone. All 
the instructions given are complete and up-to-date ; and they are written in a popular 
style, without any technicaUties or mathematical formulpe. The work is of a handy 
size for the pocket, clearly and well printed, nicely bound, and profusely illustrated. 
To young engineers this catechism will be of great value, especially to those who may 
be preparing to go forward to be examined for certificates of competency; and to 
engineers generally it will be of no little service, as they will find in this volume more 
really practical and useful information than is to be found anywhere else within a like 
compass. 387 pages. Seventh edition. Price $2.00 

HORSE-POWER CHART. 

Shows the horse-power of any stationary engine without calculation. No matter what 
the cylinder diameter of stroke, the steam pressure of cut-off, the revolutions, or 
whether condensing or non-condensing, it's all there. Easy to use, accurate, and 
saves time and calculations. Especially useful to engineers and designers. 50 cents 



39 



CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS 



MODERN STEAM ENGINEERING IN THEORY AND PRACTICE. By 
Gardner D. Hiscox. 

This is a complete and practical work issued for Stationary Engineers and Firemen, 
dealing with the care and management of boilers, engines, pumps, superheated steam, 
refrigerating machinery, dynamos, motors, elevators, air compressors, and all other 
branches with which the modern engineer must be familiar. Nearly 200 questions with 
their answers on steam and electrical engineering, likely to be asked by the Examin- 
ing Board, are included. 

Among the chapters are: Historical: steam and its properties; appliances for the 
generation of steam; types of boilers; chimney and its work; heat economy of the 
feed water; steam pumps and their work; incrustation and its work; steam above 
atmospheric pressure; flow^of steam from nozzles; superheated steam and its work; 
adiabatic expansion of steam ; indicator and its work ; steam engine proportions ; slide 
valve engines and valve motion; Corliss engine and its valve gear; compound engine 
and its theory; triple and multiple expansion engine; steam turbine; refrigeration; 
elevators and their management; cost of power; steam engine troubles; electric 
power and electric plants. 487 pages. 405 engravings. 3d Edition. . . . $8.50 

STEAM ENGINE CATECHISM. By Robert Grimshaw. 

This unique volume of 41.3 pages is not only a catechism on the question and answer 
principle, but it contains for.nulas and worked-out answers for all the Steam problems 
that appertain to the operation and management of the Steam Engine. Illustrations 
of various valves and valve gear with their principles of operation are given. Thirty- 
four Tables that are indispensable to every engineer and fireman that wishes to be 
progressive and is ambitious to become master of his calling are within its pages. It is 
a most valuable instructor in the service of Steam Engineering. Leading engineers 
have recommended it as a valuable educator for the beginner as well as a reference book 
for the engineer. It is thoroughly indexed for every detail. Every essential question 
on the Steam Engine with its answer is contained in this valuable work. Sixteenth 
edition. Price $2.00 

STEAM ENGINEER'S ARITHMETIC. By Colvin-Chenet. 

A practical pocket-book for the steam engineer. Shows how to work the problems of 
the engine room and shows "why." Tells how to figure horsepower of engines ahd 
boilers; area of boilers; has tables of areas and circumferences; steam tables; has a 
dictionary of engineering terms. Puts you on to all of the little kinks in figuring what- 
ever there is to figure around a power plant. Tells you about the heat unit; absolute 
zero; adiabatic expansion; duty of engines; factor of safety; and a thousand and one 
other things; and everything is plain and simple — not the hardest way to figure, but 
the easiest. Second Edition 75 cents 

STEAM ENGINE TROUBLES. By H. Hamkens. 

It is safe to say that no book has ever been published which gives the practical en- 
gineer such valuable and comprehensive information on steam engine design and 
troubles. There are descriptions of cylinders, valves, pistons, frames, pillow blocks 
and other bearings, connecting rods, wristplates, dashpots, reachrods, valve gears, 
governors, piping, throttle, and emergency valves, safety stops, flywheels, oilers, 
etc. If there is any trouble with these parts, the book gives you the reasons and 
tells how to remedy them. 350 pages. 276 illustrations. Price .... $2.50 

BOILER ROOM CHART. By Geo. L. Fowler. 

A chart — size 14 x 28 inches — showing in isometric perspective the mechanism be- 
longing in a modern boiler room. The various parts are shown broken or removed, 
so that the internal construction is fully illustrated. Each part is given a reference 
number, and these, with the corresponding name, are given in a glossary printed 
at the sides. Price 25 cents 

STEAM HEATING AND VENTILATION 

PRACTICAL STEAM, HOT- WATER HEATING AND VENTILATION. By 
A. G. King. 

This book is the standard and latest work published on the subject and has been pre- 
pared for the use of all engaged in the business of steam, hot-water heating, and ventila- 
tion. It is an original and exhaustive work. Tells how to get heating contracts, how 
to install heating and ventilating apparatus, the best business methods to be used, 

40 



CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS 

with "Tricks of the Trade" for shop tise. Rules and data for estimating radiation 
and cost and such tables and information as make it an indispensable work for every- 
one interested in steam, hot- water heating, and ventilation. It describes all the principal 
systems of steam, hot-water, vacuum, vapor, and vacuum-vapor heating, together 
with the new accelerated systems of hot-water circulation, including chapters on 
up-to-date methods of ventilation and the fan or blower system of heating and ventila- 
tion. Containing chapters on: I. Introduction. II. Heat. III. Evolution of 
artificial heating apparatus. IV. Boiler sm-face and settings. V. The chimney flue. 
VI. Pipe and fittings. VII. Valves, various kinds. VIII. Forms of radiating 
surfaces. IX. Locating of radiating surfaces. X. Estimating radiation. XI. Steam- 
heating apparatus. XII. Exhaust-steam heating. XIII. Hot-water heating. XIV. 
Pressure systems of hot- water work. XV. Hot-water appliances. XVI. Greenhouse 
heating. XVII. Vacuum vapor and vacuum exhaust heating. XVIII. Miscella- 
neous heating. XIX. Radiator and pipe connections. XX. Ventilation. XXI. 
Mechanical ventilation and hot-blast heating. XXII. Steam appUances. XXIII. 
District heating. XXIV. Pipe and boiler covering. XXV. Temperature regulation 
and heat control. XXVI. Business methods. XXVII. MisceUaneous. XXVIII. 
Rules, tables, and useful information. 367 pages. 300 detailed engravings. Second 
Edition — Revised. Price $3.50 

500 PLAIN ANSWERS TO DIRECT QUESTIONS ON STEAM, HOT-WATER, 
VAPOR AND VACUUM HEATING PRACTICE. By Alfred G. King. 

This work, just off the press, is arranged in question and answer form ; it is intended as 
a guide and text-book for the younger, inexperienced fitter and as a reference book for 
all fitters. Tliis book tells "how" and also tells "why." No work of its kind has 
ever been published. It answers all the questions regarding each method or system 
that would be asked by the steam fitter or heating contractor, and may be used as a 
text or reference book, and for examination questions by Trade Schools or Steam 
Fitters' Associations. Rules, data, tables and descriptive methods are given, to- 
gether with much other detailed information of daily practical use to those engaged in 
or interested in the various methods of heating. Valuable to those preparing for 
examinations. Answers every question asked relating to modem Steam, Hot-Water, 
Vapor and Vacuum Heating. Among the contents are: The Theory and Laws of 
Heat. Methods of Heating. Chimneys and Flues. Boilers for Heating. Boiler 
Trimmings and Settings. Radiation. Steam Heating. Boiler, Radiator and Pipe 
Connections for Steam Heating. Hot Water Heating. The Two-Pipe Gravity 
System of Hot Water Heating. The Circuit System of Hot Water Heating. The 
Overhead System of Hot Water Heating. Boiler, Radiator and Pipe Connections for 
Gravity Systems of Hot Water Heating. Accelerated Hot Water Heating. Ex- 
pansion Tank Connections. Domestic Hot Water Heating. Valves and Air Valves. 
Vacuum Vapor and Vacuo- Vapor Heating. Mechanical Systems of Vacuum Heating. 
Non-Mechanical Vacuum Systems. Vapor Systems. Atmospheric and Modulating 
Systems. Heating Greenhouses. Information, Rules and Tables. 200 pages, 127 
illustrations. Octavo. Cloth. Price $2.00 

STEEL 

STEEL: ITS SELECTION, ANNEALING, HARDENING, AND TEMPERING. 
By E. R. Maekham. 

This work was formerly known as "The American Steel Worker," but on the pub- 
lication of the new, revised edition, the pubUshers deemed it advisable to change its 
title to a more suitable one. It is the standard work on Hardening, Tempering, 
and Annealing Steel of all kinds. 

This book tells how to select, and how to work, temper, harden, and anneal steel for 
everything on earth. It doesn't tell how to temper one class of tools and then leave 
the treatment of another kind of tool to your imagination and judgment, but it gives 
careful instructions for every detail of every tool, whether it be a tap, a reamer or just 
a screw-driver. It tells about the tempering of small watch springs, the hardening of 
cutlery, and the annealing of dies. In fact, there isn't a thing that a steel worker 
would want to know that isn't included. It is the standard book on selecting, harden- 
ing, and tempering all grades of steel. Among the chapter headings might be mentioned 
the following subjects: Introduction; the workman; steel; methods of heating; 

41 



CATALOGUE OF GOOD, PRACTICAL BOOKS 

heating tool steel; forging; annealing; hardening baths; baths for hardening; harden- 
ing steel; drawing the temper after hardening; examples of hardening; pack harden- 
ing; case hardening; spring tempering; making tools of machine steel; special steels; 
steel for various tools; causes of trouble; high speed steels, etc. 400 pages. Very 
fully illustrated. Fourth Edition. Price ;|3.00 

HARDENING, TEMPERING, ANNEALING, AND FORGING OF STEEL. 

By J. V. WOODWORTH. 

A new work treating in a clear, concise manner all modern processes for the heating, 
annealing, forging, welding, hardening, and tempering of steel, making it a book of 
great practical value to the metal-working mechanic in general, with special directions 
for the successful hardening and tempering of all steel tools used in the arts, including 
milling cutters, taps, thread dies, reamers, both solid and shell, hollow mills, punches 
and dies, and all kinds of sheet metal working tools, shear blades, saws, fine cutlery, and 
metal cutting tools of all description, as well cis for all implements of steel both large 
and small. In this work the simplest and most satisfactory hardening and temper- 
ing processes are given. 

The uses to which the leading brands of steel may be adapted are concisely presented , 
and their treatment for working imder different conditions explained, also the special 
methods for the hardening and tempering of special brands. 

A chapter devoted to the different processes for case-hardening is also included, and 
special reference made to the adaptation of machinery steel for tools of various kinds. 
Fifth Edition. 322 pages. 215 illustrations. Price $3.00 

TRACTORS 

THE MODERN GAS TRACTOR. By Major Victor W. Pag£. 

A complete treatise describing all types and sizes of gasoline, kerosene, and oil tractors. 
Considers design and construction exhaustively, gives complete instructions for care, 
operation and repair, outlines all practical applications on the road and in the field. 
The best and latest work on farm tractors and tractor power plants. A work needed 
by farmers, students, blacksmiths, mechanics, salesmen, implement dealers, designers, 
and engineers. 500 pages. Nearly 300 illustrations and folding plates. Price $8.00 

TURBINES 

MARINE STEAM TURBINES. By Dr. G. Bauer and O. Lasche. Assist'jd 
by E. LuDWiG and H. Vogel. Translated from the German and edited by 
M. G. S. Swallow. 

The book is essentially practical and discusses tiirbines in which the full expansion of 
steam passes through a number of separate turbines arranged for driving two or more 
shafts, as in the Parsons system, and turbines in which the complete expansion of 
steam from inlet to exhaust pressure occurs in a turbine on one shaft, as in the case 
of the Curtis machines. It will enable a designer to carry out all the ordinary calcula- 
tion necessary for the construction of steam turbines, hence it fills a want which 
is hardly met by larger and more theoretical works. Numerous tables, curves and 
diagrams will be found, wliich explain with remarkable lucidity the reason why 
turbine blades are designed as they are, the course which steam takes through tur- 
bines of various types, the thermodynamics of steam turbine calculation, the influence 
of vacuum on steam consumption of steam turbines, etc. In a word, the very in- 
formation which a designer and builder of steam turbines most requires. Large 
octavo, 214 pages. Fully illustrated and containing 18 tables, including an entropy 
chart. Price, net $4.00 



42 



^CV 



